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Ensemble - Dress and Coat
(At Left) Evening ensemble of brown silk shantung. The camisole is sleeveless, with a boat neckline. Center back closure with 10 small circular buttons covered with matching fabric. The blouse is lined in dark brown silk, and has an inner structure of net and metal boning. The understructure extends below the top to give structure to the skirt. The inner net and boning layer has a center back closure of 14 hook-and-eyes, matching along same line as outer closure. The skirt is of matching materials, A-line, below-the-knee length. It has a 2" waistband decorated with horizontal ruching. Center-back zipper closure with two hook-and-eyes in waistband. The skirt has an attached black rayon gorgette underslip, and an attached black nylon petticoat. The petticoat has a horsehair braid incorporated in the hem for stiffening. The matching swing coat is calf length, with a rolled collar and short sleeves. It is constructed with several layers of organza for structure and a tuck panel around the coat for decoration and flounce. Lined in brown silk. There are no labels in the garment. Photograph is from the exhibition "Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers", held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows suit as displayed.
Ball Gown
Ball gown of pink silk taffeta. The off-the-shoulder design has several layers of cream colored Chantilly lace around the neckline/shoulder edge. The dress itself is of bright fuchsia pink silk taffeta with ties over each arm. The bodice is seamed and fitted, with a left side seam zipper. The attached matching taffeta skirt is gathered and draped horizontally, and has several layers of Chantilly lace at hem. The skirt has three hoops under the lining.
Hat
Cocktail hat of violet silk satin. The hat is formed of a low, cylindrical, flat-topped pillbox-style crown covered in drapes of violet/purple silk satin fabric. At center front/top of the crown are two large sculptural stiffened loops of the fabric. Crown is lined in cream fabric. Along inside lower edge of crown is a cream grosgrain ribbon band.
Hat
Hat with long flowing black feathers falling from a sculpted black silk tulle crown.
Pumps
Pair of pumps. The open-toed shoes have vamps formed of black leather covered in a rhinestone-covered black fabric "bunched" at center with a circular rhinestone-set black metal button. Silver leather and elastic "spring-o-lators" linings. 3 1/4" black plastic spike heels set with rhinestones. Written inside vamp of each shoe: "6 1/2 [illeg.] / 1616ind / 6486" Stamped on each lining: "Neiman-Marcus" and "Spring-o-lators / Pat Pend"
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of beaded straw. The modified pillbox hat has a cylindrical crown of white straw embellished with tiny white beads sewn on in an all-over foliate design. Within the crown is an inner woven structure which extends slightly below the edge of the crown, having the effect of raising the hat slightly off of the head and giving space around it. The inner structure has an inner hatband of red grosgrain ribbon, and a white felt-covered wired structure to help secure the hat to the wearer's head. Label inside crown: "Marché Exclusive"
Calotte Hat
Hatlet of straw and velvet.
Toque
Toque of off-white artificial straw. The toque, formed as a low cap, has a flattened circular crown of artificial(?) off-white woven straw, which is divided into 4 unequal segments by two bands of crossing yellow velvet ribbon. At the front, where the bands of ribbon turn under to the brim are affixed two sprays of artificial flowers. The base of the crown bends under and out and back in to form a tiny brim. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of off-white grosgrain ribbon around inside base of crown. Inside the hat, one at either side, are triangular wire pieces covered in matching yellow velvet ribbon to help secure the hat to wearer's head. Affixed to the inner hatband is a black elastic cord to help secure the hat to wearer's head. Sewn inside crown is maker's label: "Marion Vallé / New York". The hat is accompanied by a short hatpin, the head covered in yellow velvet to match the ribbon.
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of black plastic tubing.
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of black plastic tubing.
Pillbox Hat
Hat of white straw cloth and navy blue felt. The modified pillbox style hat has a slightly conical crown with rounded top of white straw cloth. The lower section of the crown is edged with a wide dark navy blue velvet band. At one side of crown is an applied ornament resembling a snail, consisting of a tightly coiled spiral of white cording that extends up and out, branching into two parts. Near the branching are two rhinestone set spheres, one on each branch. Inside of crown is lined in white fabric, and edged with an inner dark navy blue grosgrain ribbon hatband. Attached to band are two small plastic combs to secure the hat to the wearer's head. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Jan Leslie / Custom Design".
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of yellow plastic/vinyl tubing.
Hatlet
Hatlet of navy blue appliques.
Hatlet
Hatlet/circlet of gray mink.
Hatlet
Hatlet of black plastic tubing.
Hatlet
Hatlet of black velvet.
Hatlet
Hatlet in calot style of navy straw.
Hatlet
Hatlet of modified calot type with brown, beige, white, blue and green feathers, the whole covered with a very fine veil sprinkled with tiny rhinestones.
Hatlet
Sculptural hatlet of white beads and floral plaques.
Beaded hatlet
Hatlet of orange beaded mesh.
Hatlet
Hatlet of black beads.
Hat
Hat of light-colored straw. Domed crown is surmounted by small sphere of woven straw, and is canted back slightly. Around the base of the crown is a wide band of two layers of white grosgrain ribbon which have extending ends at side. The "snap brim" is slanted downwards at front, but turned up at sides and back. The hat is lined in a fine golden/yellow mesh, and has an inner white grosgrain ribbon hatband at base of crown. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Emme Inc / New York" Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Amen Wardy / El Paso - Texas"
Hat
Hat of gray felt. The domed crown is constructed with the the outline of a rounded square, with attached stiffened double-brim, which turns up on all sides, forming a point at front and at sides, but rounded in back. At the back of the hat the brim extends downwards, forming a point. The hat is unlined, and edged with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. A small stitched star on the hatband indicates the front of the hat. Visible behind the ribbon in one section is the woven straw backing used to stiffen the brim. Designer's label inside crown, sewn to ribbon band: "Hattie Carnegie / Custom Made" Stamped inside crown on felt: Circular mark containing a logo of three rabbits and partly missing word "... URLAP", and below logo ".... en France".
Hat
Capulet of aqua blue beads and plaques.
Hatlet
Hatlet of stiffened black velvet embroidered floral/foliate appliques.
Hatlet
Red felt hatlet.
Hat
Hat of natural-colored straw. The somewhat domed crown worked to appear "squashed", bulging in some areas and turned-in in others. At base of crown is band of cream grosgrain ribbon with bow at front. The brim is off-center, turned under, extending further at front and curving more broadly under at back. The hat is unlined, with an inner red grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Miss Mary / New York"; Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Walker-Marr / Dallas" Belonged to Mrs. Leo F. Corrigan, the mother of Mrs. Edwin B. Jordan, the donor of this piece.
Hat
Hat of natural-colored straw.
Hat
Hat of straw. Natural-color straw hat in the style of a modified boater. Shallow domed crown is encircled by a black velvet ribbon with rhinestone set buckle at front securing bow with large loops. Around the front 2/3 of the hat is black veiling/net. The short brim is slightly off-center, extending farther at front than back. The underside of the brim is partly lined in black velvet, while the crown has an inner brown grosgrain hatband. No designer's labels or retailer's labels. A single printed cloth label is sewn to the hatband: "22" Accompanied by two short hatpins with black velvet-covered heads.
Hat
Hat of white straw. The beret-style hat of white straw, the crown formed of 8 segments. Extending from one side are two "swallow-tail" segments of off-white grosgrain ribbon. Inside of crown lined in panels of off-white grosgrain, and with two inner hatbands of grosgrain ribbon, one white and one brown. Label sewn to brown inner hatband: "Belmar" (Possibly "Betmar")
Hat
Hat of navy blue straw. The turban-like hat is composed of a bulbus crown of woven navy blue straw which is edged in grosgrain ribbon. For one-half of the distance around the hat, the ribbon is dark navy blue, for the other half it is red. The two ends cross over in the front, with ends extending upwards on the front of the hat. The hat is unlined, with an inner dark blue grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie".
Calotte
Hat of beige felt/velor. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the hat has a domed beige felt crown "stacked" on another domed form of the same felt. The outer crown is "cut open" and "peeled back", to reveal the crown below. The lower edge of the crown is rolled up and in to create the appearance of a narrow rolled brim. The hat is unlined, with an inner dark beige grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Casual" Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus" Supplier's mark stamped inside crown: "Riviera / Finest Quality / Velour / Made in Italy"
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of navy blue straw. Straw is patterned to look like flattened bow ends; brimless. Designer's label: "Hattie Carnegie"
Calotte Hat
Hatlet of black fabric.
Calotte
Hat of pale purple or violet felt/velor. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the hat has a domed pale purple felt crown "stacked" on another domed form of the same felt. The lower form has a horizontal "tuck" near the base, enhancing the impression of the hat being stacked felt domes. On right side of the crown near base is an applied bow of the same felt. The hat is unlined, with an inner dark blue grosgrain ribbon hatband. Stamped inside the crown: "Premier / Finest Quality / Imported / Velour" Joint Designer's and Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Original / Expressly for / Neiman-Marcus". Retains original Neiman-Marcus paper tag. Obverse: "Neiman-Marcus / B830 / x8SINZ / 7529x / 2995"; Reverse: "15 00" With matching hatpin, the head covered with a small pad of the same felt as the hat.
Hat
Hat of dark brown straw. The low, domed crown is of a fine dark brown woven straw, encircled at the base by a band of fine woven reddish brown straw which ties and forms a bow at left side. The medium-width brim is of the dark brown straw, and undulates slightly, higher in front and lower at sides. The hat is lined in reddish brown lace, and has an inner hatband formed of a roll of the lace. At either side, extending from the inner hatband, are two rectangular covered metal clips which help secure the hat to wearer's head. There are no labels or tags in the hat. The hat is accompanied by a single short hatpin with a faux black oval pearl head.
Cloche Hat
Modified cloche hat of dark blue velour. The oval body of the cloche is designed to be worn cross-wise on head, with one side dipping lower than the other. The sides are decorated with star motifs in dark blue sequins, beads and velvet circlets. Unlined, with inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon and edged with a dark purple(?) band. Designer's and Retailer's combined label: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Original / Expressly for / Neiman-Marcus" Stamp on inside crown illegible.
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox-style hat of black velvet and braid. The cylindrical crown is higher at front, and slightly domed at top. Around top and base of crown are running bands of black braid forming a series of loops, within each of which is a free-swinging black braid-covered ball. Lined in black mesh(?) and with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon around the inside lower edge of crown. A small stitched mark on hatband indicates the front of the hat. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie". The hat is accompanied by a short hatpin with black bead head.
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of black velvet.
Hatlet
Hatlet of burgundy fabric covered with artificial flowers. The hatlet is formed as an oval of stiffened burgundy fabric intended to be worn across the top of the head. The hatlet is almost entirely covered with artificial flowers of velvets, silk, and other fabrics. The flowers are primarily in pinks/purples/reds, with green stems and leaves. The hat is lined in black satin and edged with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. A small stitched mark on the ribbon indicates the front of the hat. Designer's Label: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York". Label is very large, extending across the full width of the inside of the hatlet, the word "Paris" partly obscured by the grosgrain ribbon.
Pillbox Hat
Hat of blue velvet. This modified pillbox hat is formed as a turban of draped blue velvet, extending slightly downwards at sides. The hat is lined inside with black satin, and has an inner hatband of blue grosgrain ribbon. A small star stitched to the inner hatband indicates the front of the hat. Attached to either side of the inner hatband are two small plastic combs to secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Irene of New York". Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus / Salon" Retailer's paper tag attached to inner hatband: "A810 / RISCN2 / 5117 / 4995"
Hat
Hat of green velvet. The low, domed crown of dark green velvet is surrounded by a band of the same fabric, with a wide "belt loop" at back. The brim is off-center, some what wider at front, also of dark green velvet, very full and somewhat gathered into the band around the crown. The crown is lined in black mesh, and has an inner hatband of brown grosgrain ribbon. A small taupe stitched start on the inner hatband indicates the front of the hat. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Irene of New York". Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus / Salon"
Calotte
Calotte of pink velvet and feathers. The hatlet is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot") created of a curved oval/slightly teardrop-shape of layered/draped and folded pink velvet, set across head so that point is at center of right side and curve is at center of left side. The crown is overlaid with a cascade of pink feathers which runs from just above center of left side, across hat, and falling down on right side, with feather ends curling in and under. The hat is lined with pink mesh, and has an inner hatband running around the inside edge of the crown. Affixed to inner hatband at left side is small plastic comb to help secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Irene of New York". Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus / Salon". Accompanied by short hatpin with simulated pearl mounted on head.
Hatlet
Hatlet of beaded velvet. The small, circular, slightly domed hatlet is of off-white velvet with printed scrolls and curves in greens, browns and blues. Over the surface of the hat are various beaded and sequined motifs and strings of beads. Across the back is a wide twisted green ribbon which crosses at back and has trailing ends. Lined in copper/reddish cloudy silk(?), and edged in green grosgrain ribbon. A small stitched mark on the ribbon indicates the front of the hat. At either side is attached a small plastic comb to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label sewn to inner green grosgrain ribbon: "Hattie Carnegie"
Beret
Hat of striped felt. The hat is formed as a "pancake beret" on a rigid, slightly curved frame. The crown is of felt with wide width-wise stripes of olive green and black. The edge is embellished with a swagged band of bronze and black beads which runs from just behind the midway point of the side of the hat, around the front, and to just behind the midway point on the other side of the hat. The interior of the hat is lined in black fabric, and there is an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Chez Henriette".
Calotte
Hat of black velvet and beading. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot") of black velvet, with an irregular lower edge. Set around the calotte are 5 large tear-drop shaped rhinestones, 4 at front and 1 at back. Each stone is bordered by concentric bands of pearls, small rhinestones and gray tubular beads. The beading bands continue around the hat, linking the larger stones, and becomes the lower border of the hat. The hat is lined with black satin, and has an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. A small stitched mark on the inner hatband indicates the front of the hat. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Ere Nouvelle / New York / Reg. U.S. Pat. Off." Sewn to maker's label is size label: "22 / MSC"
Toque
Toque of brown and green straw. The toque has a high, cylindrical crown with flattened top. The crown is made of bands of very fine green and more coarse brown/tan woven straw. The flattened top is of green, and along the sides are three narrow green bands, three narrow tan/brown bands, and the lowest, wide band of tan/brown. To one side of the toque is affixed a spray of artificial lily of the valley, tied with a red grosgrain ribbon bow. The hat is lined in blue/gray fabric, with an inner hatband of off-white grosgrain ribbon round the inside base of the crown. Designer's label sewn to inner headband: "Made in / England / Christian Dior / Chapeaux". Retailer's label sewn to inner headband: "Lazarus / French Room / Columbus, Ohio".
Toque
Hat of green straw. The toque style hat is formed of a high, cylindrical crown of woven green straw with raised outer rim at top and central shallow domed area. Around the shallow domed area is an acid-green woven ribbon band, tied with a bow with trailing ends at back of hat. Around the inside base of the crown is a band of the same woven ribbon which projects down slightly below the edge of the crown. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of green grosgrain ribbon around inside lower edge of crown. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Exclusive / Jean Arlett / Creations".
Hatlet
Hat of pale pink fine straw. The low, rounded crown is of woven fine pale pink straw with gold edging. At front of hat are two "petal" shapes emerging from the upper part of the crown and extending forward and down at the front of the hat. The shapes are of the same woven straw, edged in pink satin. The hat has a veil of fine pink netting, now partly perished. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of pink grosgrain ribbon around inside base of the crown. Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Volk".
Hat
Hat of green straw. The domed crown is of woven dark green straw, using primarily wide bands of straw but with occasional bands made of linked narrow strips threaded with thin golden ribbon. The narrow brim is of matching straw, and turns up steeply. Applied to back is a small dark green velvet bow. The hat is lined in a dark green fine mesh fabric, and has an inner hatband of green velveteen(?) ribbon around the inside lower edge of the crown. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Ere Nouvelle / New York / Reg. U.S. Pat. Off." Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Walker-Marr / Dallas" Partly obscured Union(?) label sewn to inner hatband: "...w York / .... reation / ..... 22".
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