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Festival ensemble

Description: Miao People, Thailand/Laos, Festival Outfit A) Jacket. Jacket of black cotton, waist length, with standing collar. Front opening with no closure, worn with sides overlapping and forming "V" neckline. Standing collar faced with machine-embroidered ribbon of black ground with purple-ish flower blossoms with yellow centers, blue vines, and green leaves. This band continues along edge of opening to about 9 1/4" above hem. From that point to hem on each side of opening a different band is used, of purple and green foliate forms on black, with outer border of diagonal blue stripes and silver ovals on black ground with silver edges. A second machine-woven band of ribbon is applied as an outer border along the collar/upper opening band, with green, pink, and white stripes and bands of green and white trees(?) and a band of alternating green/yellow/white butterflies and same color flowers(?), all on a reddish ground. Long black sleeves have central wide band of orange satin with machine-embroidered multicolored sea dragons. Black fabric added after panels to form lower sections of sleeves. Garment is lined in black fabric, the collar and front opening backed with pink/purple fabric. Garment has a size tag sewn inside at back collar: "XXL". Not an American size. B) Skirt. Wrap style skirt with tiny pleats. Skirt formed of horizontal bands of fabrics sewn together, some embellished. From top: Plain black cotton(?) waistband ca. 3 1/4" wide with long black ties; White cotton(?) band ca. 1 1/2" wide, which begins pleating that continues down length of skirt; Pale blue/gray section ca. 14" long which has printed bands of dark blue linear designs: zig-zags, scrolls, lines, etc., the lines having had thin strips of fabric appliqued over them, in green, orange, and purple over the bulk of the skirt; Red cotton(?) band 1 1/2" wide …
Date: 1970/2000
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Festival ensemble

Description: Rabari Tribe Festival Attire: A) Kanchali (Jacket/Vest/Top): Backless top with short sleeves and "V" neckline in front. Front and side panels covered with embroidery, primarily geometric designs, in rusts, orange, white, blue, yellow, green, and white. Three ties in back, at neck, upper, and middle back. Partly lined in red fabric. No labels or tags in top. B) Ghaghro (Skirt): Full-length skirt of heavy red fabric. Drawstring waist. Waistband with horizontal bands of: Vertical purple, yellow, and red striped silky fabric; thin band of red fabric; thin band of green fabric; thin band of orange fabric; thin band of black fabric. Body of skirt gathered into the waistband. Two horizontal rows of repeated large embroidered motifs of potted flowers with pairs of birds, interspersed with smaller motifs of flowers. Each design with inset small circular mirrors in embroidered frames. Lower section/hem with wide band of embroidered and appliqued decorations. From top: "wave" line with leaf-shaped forms, horizontal band of hearts laid side-ways with connecting line; Large band with flower heads, fines and leaves, with mirrors at center of each flower; Scroll with alternating leaf forms; Blue wave line, orange line, green line, orange wave line, purple line, orange line, green line, purple line, wide band of dark purple with diamond-stitching; purple line; black line; red line; green line; orange line; purple line; red line. Unlined. No labels or tags in skirt. C) Ohdni (Head scarf/shawl): Large pieced rectangular shawl in red, blue, brown, and black. Ornamented with embroidery, applique, mirrors, and band of coins. Central square set with large and small mirrors in rows, with embroidered borders/frames of red and purple. Set around central square are appliqued "Maltese cross" forms of white and orange fabric set with mirrors. Ends with large red panels repeating the "Maltese cross" forms but without …
Date: 1950/2000
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Festival ensemble

Description: Uzbekistan festival ensemble. a) Caftan/Dress of silk ikat. Full-length, very slight A-line, long sleeves. Shaped neckline. Body of caftan/dress of silk ikat in pattern of rectangular blocks of purple, white, yellow, and reddish-black with central ikat patterns of green, black, yellow, and pinkish, with white "eyes". Neckline is edged with band of rhinestones following the scrolling shapes, and continuing down to and across bust. Within band are small areas of "cutouts" backed with fine white mesh. Cuffs with scalloped edges and decorative stitching following edges. Unlined. No labels in garment. b) Coat of complimentary ikat. Full-length, sleeveless, center-front opening with no closure. Edges of neckline, center-front opening, hem, and deep side-slits are all edged with heavy yellow embroidered applique of scrolling bands with "strawberry-leaf" shapes, with yellow mesh backed openwork on leaves, tubular beads along the scrolling bands, and iridescent flower-shaped sequins accenting the edges. Unlined. The ikat pattern is same as dress, but predominantly in greens, blues, yellows, and white rather than reds and purple. No labels in coat. C) Hat. Square, box-form hat of stiffened dark brown(?) velvet almost totally covered in heavy gold metallic thread embroidery and with fine gold bugle beads and gold sequins. From top edge of crown is fringe of long bead strands of gold bugle beads ending in gold teardrop beads. Fringe is longer at sides and back, short in front. Lined in printed cotton, red with floral and white with floral. Whole interior is "shellacked" with glue to stiffen. 6 1/4" square x 3" high, not counting fringe.
Date: 1970/2000
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Festival ensemble

Description: Yao Tribe Festival ensemble. A) Pants. Black cotton(?) pants, 3/4 or longer in length. Plain waistband and upper section. Thighs, outsides of legs, and lower legs areas are intricately decorated, created in part by sewing together bands of woven work, and in part by bands of cross-stitch. The decorations are geometric forms, stylized natural forms, etc. in green, yellow, white, red, orange, pink, and black. No labels or tags in pants. B) Coat/Jacket/Top. Black cotton upper-body garment, full-length. Large "collar" of dark red fuzzy "pom-pom" edging with scattered green, yellow, and blue strands at base of trim and in places around neck. Long sleeves edged at ends in narrow bands of red and white applied fabric. Center front opening with no fasteners. Slits at sides from hem to waist create "ties" from the front flaps of the garment, which are trimmed in blue edging. At top of each side slit are attached three long tassels of magenta/pink yarn with beaded tops. No tags or labels in coat. C) Hat. - stored separately, on individual record. D)"Hat Scarf". Black strip of cotton(?) which terminates at each end in square panel with internal stiffening agent (cardboard?). Edged on two sides in magenta/pink/reddish "pom-pom" edging. Center of each panel with applied printed square of fabric with geometric motif of crosses in pink, green, red, and blue. No tags or labels in hat scarf. E) Back apron/belt panel. Central vertical panel consisting of black cotton vertical rectangle with wide border of blue silk(?). Backed with black cotton. Extending from each side at top are very long rectangular bands/ties. From panel outwards on each side: Vertical stripes of yellow, green, white, pink, white, blue, white, green, white; 5 squares of patchwork/embroidery in pink and green with small touches of orange, red, blue, etc.; Vertical bands …
Date: 1970/2000
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Coat and Pillbox Hat

Description: A) Evening coat of forest green wool. Double breasted, with six large buttons having black faceted edges and green pearled centers, and bound buttonholes. Collarless, with black soutache braid outlining neckline and front opening. Loose fitting with very full, bell-shaped, elbow length sleeves pleated into dropped shoulders, faced with green wool part-way back into sleeve. Double welt, angled, slit pockets at sides. Lined in green silk. Designer's label: "E Garnett / Italian Made / Imported Original" B) Pillbox hat. Of matching forest green wool, the low, cylindrical crown is edged in double row of matching black soutache braid which crosses on right and is trimmed with small sphere covered in matching wool. Inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband, and black elasticized band for securing hat to wearer's head. Lined in black silk(?). Designer's label: "E Garnett / Italian Made / Imported Original"
Date: 1954
Creator: Garnett, Eleanora
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

[Jose portrait]

Description: Photograph of a man with suit and glasses in front of a dark background. Written on back: "Para Isabel de su hermano - José 1-5-22." ( *Translation from Spanish: For Isabel from her brother - José 1-5-22 )
Date: January 5, 1922
Partner: UNT Libraries Special Collections

Festival ensemble

Description: Thailand - Hmong Hill Tribe Festival Attire A) Bodice of Black satin bodice with square neckline. Neckline "framed by embellished bands consisting of red outer and inner borders, "zig-zags" of red and blue bands, and applied flower-shaped pink and iridescent sequins with beads. Bands extend down front of bodice, and are around cuffs of the long sleeves. Around the neckline and cuffs of the 3/4-length sleeves are hung beaded pendants with silver-colored coins. Front opening along left side vertical band, with 4 hidden snaps. Unlined. No labels or tags in garment. B) Skirt, Knee- or Below-Knee-Length skirt of finely pleated black fabric. Wrap style, with plain panels at ends. Narrow waistband. Unlined, but faced at ends and with band near hem. No labels or tags in garment. C) Apron, Vertical front panel of black satin with an embellished "frame" composed of wide bands of decoration. Red outer and inner borders, "zig-zags" of red and blue bands, and applied flower-shaped pink and iridescent sequins with beads. Hung in rows across the apron are beaded pendants with silver-colored coins. Wide waistband matching the "frame" of the vertical panel, hung with beaded/coin pendants along most of lower edge. No labels or tags in garment. The following parts have separate records, not housed with garment: D) D) Hat. Hat formed of an open circle of black nylon(?) satin lined in black cotton. Upper portion with wide "rim" projecting out, from which hangs a fringe of white/clear beads, each of the 43 strands ending in a French Indo-China 10 centime coins, . The main body of the hat is covered with a "trellis" of blue and red ribbon, within each intersection there is a pink or white flower-head bead. Width: 10" (approx); Circumference: 32 1/2" (approx); Height: 4" without fringe. E) Necklace
Date: 1970/2000
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Festival ensemble

Description: Festival Attire, Hmong Tribe, Eastern Thailand-Western Laos. A) Bodice. Waist/upper hip-length, of black velvet with all-over printed pattern in textured "paint" of leaves/flowers in dark reds/purples done in "dots", outlined in silvery white. No collar. Center front opening edged on inside with wide band of needlework with "zig-zag" in red, pink, and green cross-stitch, bordered in green and yellow, and in band of sparkly silver ovals containing green, red, and yellow metallic reflective strands. Outer edge of "saw teeth" in groups of red, green, pale green, and white. Cuffs of the long sleeves with same wide bands. Back of bodice with "flap" at neck, edged with pink and green, upper section of black cloth with printed flowers in green, pink, purple, and white, edged in places with gold. Lower part of flap of cross-stitch/needlework in pink and green with dark on white forming zig-zig-based pattern. Bodice lined in white fabric printed with dense, all-over pattern of small purple flowers with green leaves. No labels or tags in bodice. b) Skirt. Wrap-style skirt, knee-length or lower. Wide woven blue waistband into which main body of skirt is tightly pleated. Upper section of skirt of plain blue fabric. Lower part of a blue denim-like fabric similar to waistband (indigo dyed) with white resist pattern of bands and blocks and circles. This panel, itself pleated into upper panel, is embellished with horizontal bands of pink/magenta stitching, and a band of green ribbon with pink diamond shapes. Long blue fabric ties. No tags or labels in skirt. c) Apron. Narrow "apron" set horizontally. Waistband consist of (from top to bottom): Band of printed fabric with narrow blue border with blue printed design, then band of blue with white flowerheads separated by gold "x" shapes, then thinner lower border; Wider band of needlework with pink …
Date: 1970/2000
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Festival ensemble

Description: Hmong Hill Tribe festival ensemble, Thailand/Laos A) Bodice/jacket. Jacket of black velour, waist-length. Center front opening with no closures. On either side is wide applied band of embroidery in pink, green, white, and metallic gold, with braid border and outer colored "saw-tooth" edges of pink, green, red, and white triangles. Mid-length sleeves with matching wide bands at cuffs. Back of jacket with small square "flap" hanging from neckline made with same embroidered band. Fully lined in blue cloth printed with all-over dense floral pattern in pinks, blue, green, white, and yellow. No labels or tags in garment. B) Skirt. Mid-length skirt of various fabrics in horizontal bands. Uppermost band of black cotton(?) with elastic waistband. Next band from top is of blue cotton(?) heavily pleated into upper band, and with horizontal red lines embroidered/sewn in - one near top of panel, two near bottom of panel, with narrow band of "lattice" embroidered between the lower lines. Third panel from top is a dark brown/black more open-weave fabric with subtle reddish threads forming a repeated design of squares(?) around the band. This band has narrow dark purple velvet bands near the edges. Bottom band of skirt is a black velour. Unlined. No labels or tags in garment. C) Apron. Long vertical panel of black velour "novelty fabric" printed in metallic neon colors in a design of stylized feathers and shapes, with all-over blue iridescent(?) "sequin" dots. Front of apron with applied vertical bands of machine embroidered decoration in pinks, greens, white, and red consisting of heart shapes containing pairs of birds, within frames of spirals, zig-zags, straight lines, etc. forming diamond-shapes. Bands edged with pink ribbon. Running vertically down apron are three rows of small flower heads of colored felt(?) with golden metallic beads and opalescent/sparkly plastic flower-heads. Reverse of apron …
Date: 1970/2000
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

[Bernice Clark]

Description: Photograph of Bernice Clark. In the image, Clark is wearing a hat with her hair styled and wearing pearl earrings and a stripped blouse.
Date: unknown
Creator: Clark, Joe
Partner: UNT Libraries Special Collections

[A man dressed in costume holding a cigarette]

Description: Photograph of a man posing in a costume. He sits in a chair, resting one elbow on his knee and holding a cigarette near his mouth. He wears a smoking hat with a tassel, a fake mustache, and an embroidered shirt with puffy sleeves.
Date: [1950..1965]
Creator: Williams, Byrd M. (Byrd Moore), III
Partner: UNT Libraries Special Collections

[Photograph of a young girl in a dress]

Description: Photograph of a young girl posing in costume. She wears a long dress with puffy sleeves and a white collar. A white apron with two horizontal stripes is tied around her waist. She wears a white bonnet with an over-sized bow. A couch is visible sitting against the wall behind her.
Date: 194X
Creator: Williams, Byrd M. (Byrd Moore), III
Partner: UNT Libraries Special Collections

[Photograph of a woman holding a bucket, 2]

Description: Photograph of a woman posing with a bucket in front of a solid photography backdrop. She stands with her body facing the right and turns her head to look at the camera. She rests one hand on her waist and holds out a white bucket behind her with the other. Her dark hair is neatly styled and she wears dangling, metallic earrings. She wears a long-sleeved, white shirt tucked into a long, dark, high-waisted skirt and white pumps.
Date: [1940..1970]
Creator: Williams, Byrd M. (Byrd Moore), III
Partner: UNT Libraries Special Collections

Evening Jacket

Description: Jacket of black satin covered with velvet floral and embroidery appliques. Hip-length jacket flares from waist to hem. Standing portrait collar with sweetheart neckline. Long fitted sleeves with flared black satin cuffs. Center front opening with 5 non-functioning large circular black satin covered buttons and various hidden hooks and snaps. Complex inner structure. Jacket has inner boned bustier-like structure that zippers up front and has inner petersham belt below bust. Jacket "shell" is attached to this structure. All parts lined.
Date: Autumn 1993
Creator: de la Renta, Oscar
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Dress

Description: Dress of black silk taffeta. Mid-length, with shallow boat neckline and natural waistline. Long, full sleeves are gathered into shoulders and into tops of wide cuffs, which have five cloth-covered buttons. Front bodice with bust darts and a vertical opening secured by cross laces through nine pairs of silver-colored grommets set with tiny rhinestones. Skirt gathered into waist, and has pockets at sides. Center back zipper with top hook and eye. Fully lined. Designer label at back collar by zipper: Mollie Parnis Boutique / New York Retailer label obscured by bottom hem: Saks Fifth Avenue
Date: 1980/1989
Creator: Parnis, Mollie
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Coat Dress

Description: Coat dress of white textured silk; fitted back and loose draped front ending over left bust line with long flange to hem. Designer's Label at inside center back below collar " Printemps - Ete 1956 / Christian Dior / Paris / Made in France" and stamped on label: "789[(?) last number is illegible]"
Date: 1956
Creator: Dior, Christian
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Day Dress

Description: Day dress of oatmeal variegated silk/linen blend(?). Knee-length, coat-style dress with collar and center front opening with 3 large circular "carved" horn buttons with teardrop centers, and one non-functioning one at bottom; bound buttonholes. Two hooks and loops at waist. Elbow-length sleeves. Natural waist into which bodice and skirt are slightly gathered at front and back, and appear to be deeply gathered at sides, but are not - backed by elastic to pull together. String belt loops. Lined in light tan/dark cream acetate(?). Designer's label at inside back collar: "Barney Max / designs ltd. / California" With accompanying belt of tan leather faced with same fabric as dress; 1-1/4" wide. Square buckle covered with same fabric. Former owner's mark on back: "7 Leathers"
Date: 1960/1969
Creator: Max, Barney
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Jacket

Description: Jacket of Golden Spotted Seal fur with rounded collar and lapels; double breasted button accents with buttons of pearl grey circle set in gold metallic soft square; 4 fur covered belt loops, 2 on front and 2 on back, front belt loops are accented with self-buttons (right side button missing); two slit pockets at sides are lined in grey silk satin; long sleeves, pockets and jacket opening are trimmed in leather piping; 2 concealed metal hook and leather eye closures, one at bust and one at waist; fully lined in grey silk satin; hits at below hips. Label inside coat: Expressly made for William Schmidt/ OSLO/ 1853. With belt of black leather with oval, silver metal buckle; 2” width.
Date: 1989~
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Cape

Description: Burnoose-style cape of lavender wool flannel. Mid-skirt length front and back, rounded at bottom to be shorter on each side. Fitted at shoulders. Attached hood gathered around face by use of ribbon ties woven through satin bound buttonholes around border of hood (ribbon missing). Center front opening and hem are trimmed with wide band of pastel green cording in scroll design. Closure of matching satin ribbon ties at neckline. Lined in pastel green satin.
Date: 1880/1890
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Child's Dress

Description: Child's dress of navy blue calico with rose colored paisley print. Long sleeves with caps at shoulders. Empire waistline; full length. Standing collar trimmed with ivory lace. Center front opening with 6 circular brass, concave buttons with red painted centers decorated with silver circles and a star. Back panel in Watteau style and forms a small train. Upper part of dress lined in blue cotton with small white flowers.
Date: 1890/1899
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
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