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Ensemble

Description: A) Dress of deep blue and orange silk with multi-colored embroidered flowers and squares. Full-length deep blue silk dress with rounded neckline which is edged in gold and with band of square embroidered blocks of color, red, green, blue, white, extending down front in "keyhole". Square "bib" on front and back of orange silk, with border of embroidered flowers of red, blue, and white, and leaves of yellow, with gold embroidered vines and outlining. 3/4 or longer sleeves, with orange panels on upper arms to elbows, with embroidery matching bib. Cuffs with embroidered squares matching neckline. Dress has added gores at sides of orange silk which create a slight A-line. Lower part of dress embroidered with: tall vertical obelisk forms in gold with squares of red, blue, white, green, and "foliate forms" embroidery; Tall bands of large embroidered flower heads and leaves matching bib, but enlarged; Flowers and vines in red, white, yellow, green, blue, etc. Back of dress with same decoration as front, bib is shorter. Vertical closure at neckline, with single hook-and-loop at neckline. Unlined. Sewn-in shoulder pads covered with matching orange silk. b ) Headpiece c ) Necklace - bronze alloy with carnelian stones - Tubular with pendants d ) Necklace - bronze alloy with carnelian stones - Rectangular plaque with pendants
Date: 1950/2000
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Ensemble - Kutchi Group, Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan

Description: Ensemble - Kutchi Dress, Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan. This assembled ensemble consists of: 1. Dress. Full-length. High neckline, slight V-shape. Front yoke/bib panel of fine needlework geometric shapes and patterns, in orange, purple, green, and blue. Front of bodice with four large embroidered rosettes of silver couching with orange silver/white, and black borders. Over-length, wide sleeves of patchwork of materials, including red, purple, and pink. Cuffs of heavy silver couching with central band of small circular mirrors in needlework frames. High, narrow waistband of silver/gold couching. Front of skirt formed of thin black fabric heavily gathered to form voluminous front panel. Wide band of red fabric lining inside of front panel at hem. Back of bodice formed of red cloth with vertical white stripes. Embroidered panels under arms. Back of skirt formed of upper panel of purple printed with blue and off-white flowers and leaves, heavily gathered into waistband. Lower panel of purple fabric, as full as upper panel. Black hem on back of skirt. 2. Headpiece of silver set with glass and plastic(?) rubies and emeralds, center plaque with glass segments simulating lapis and jade(?). Central circular plaque with central red circular glass "stone" surrounded by 6 alternating triangular green and blue glass plaques forming a star. Star is encircled by ring of glass (plastic?) simulated rubies and emeralds. Outer openwork border. Extending above central plaque and connected by 4 small metal bar-shaped links is a triangular plaque set with same simulated rubies and emeralds. Extending horizontally from central plaque on either side are three rectangular metal plaques set with same simulated rubies and emeralds. All plaques connected by metal bar-shaped links. Hanging below connected plaques is fringe of short metal chain sections terminating in hollow spheres. The plaques are sewn to a narrow black cloth band designed to fit …
Date: 1940/1960
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Festival ensemble

Description: Miao People, Thailand/Laos, Festival Outfit A) Jacket. Jacket of black cotton, waist length, with standing collar. Front opening with no closure, worn with sides overlapping and forming "V" neckline. Standing collar faced with machine-embroidered ribbon of black ground with purple-ish flower blossoms with yellow centers, blue vines, and green leaves. This band continues along edge of opening to about 9 1/4" above hem. From that point to hem on each side of opening a different band is used, of purple and green foliate forms on black, with outer border of diagonal blue stripes and silver ovals on black ground with silver edges. A second machine-woven band of ribbon is applied as an outer border along the collar/upper opening band, with green, pink, and white stripes and bands of green and white trees(?) and a band of alternating green/yellow/white butterflies and same color flowers(?), all on a reddish ground. Long black sleeves have central wide band of orange satin with machine-embroidered multicolored sea dragons. Black fabric added after panels to form lower sections of sleeves. Garment is lined in black fabric, the collar and front opening backed with pink/purple fabric. Garment has a size tag sewn inside at back collar: "XXL". Not an American size. B) Skirt. Wrap style skirt with tiny pleats. Skirt formed of horizontal bands of fabrics sewn together, some embellished. From top: Plain black cotton(?) waistband ca. 3 1/4" wide with long black ties; White cotton(?) band ca. 1 1/2" wide, which begins pleating that continues down length of skirt; Pale blue/gray section ca. 14" long which has printed bands of dark blue linear designs: zig-zags, scrolls, lines, etc., the lines having had thin strips of fabric appliqued over them, in green, orange, and purple over the bulk of the skirt; Red cotton(?) band 1 1/2" wide …
Date: 1970/2000
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Necklace

Description: Necklace. Simple gold chain suspending triangular "net" of gold quatrefoil-shaped links hung with tiers of faux coins. Simple hook fastener. "Cascade" style. Part of a Nubian ensemble.
Date: 1975/1999
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Traditional necklace

Description: Belly Dancer ensemble, Egypt. Necklace. Simple silver chain necklace with hook closure, from which hangs a triangular net of quatrefoil-shaped links hung with tiers of faux coins. Chain: 43 cm. long; 23 cm from chain to point of triangle.
Date: 1975/1999
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Traditional ensemble

Description: Thai temple dancer costume ensemble: G, H) Pair of arm bands of black velvet bordered in gold trim with silver bead and gold sequin floral motif beading. Styled as rectangular base with triangular point on one side. 29cm X 11cm at vertex of triangular top. M) Neck piece in horseshoe shape of black velvet with silver sequin star trim and gold fringe along the outer edges.
Date: 1975/1999
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Neckpiece

Description: Neckpiece. Long, wide rectangular cotton panel suspended vertically from neck strap, with cross-stitch embellished borders, and three vertical columns of arched silver-colored rectangular repousse plaques set on a black ground, with yellow rick-rack bands between. Fringe at bottom edge of red and green strands, red terminating in white beads, green terminating in blue beads. Lined in printed cotton fabrics.
Date: 1950/1999
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Pendant

Description: Part of Ensemble: Kutchi Dress, Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan. Pendant plaque of silver set with simulated gemstones, trapezoidal, almost triangular. Central artificial emerald stone within border of smaller simulated stones (rubies, emeralds, sapphires). In corners of panel are set single artificial stones. Outer band of stones. Chased outer edges. Upper edge with applied loops/roundels with suns/flower-heads. From bottom edge of each plaque is a fringe of chain ending in hollow spheres. No visible marks or hallmarks. Measurements: 5" high with fringe x 3 1/4" wide at widest point.
Date: 1975/1999
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Pendant

Description: Pendant of silver and simulated lapis lazuli and carnelian, shaped as a large inverted flat "spade" card suit. Central large oval flat red/orange "stone" of glass? (enamel?) within thin metal border or "cell" (French: cloisonne) surrounded by heart-shaped metal "cells" filled with glass or enamel creating a border of small circles of same material and blue "lapis" (glass or enamel?) triangles pointing outwards. Outer border of piece formed of same heart-shapes. The field of the pendant with inlaid(?) brass(?) abstract scrolling. Pendant surmounted by horizontal tube inlaid with same brass, forming suspension loop. Back is plain. Strung on thin black ribbon (modern addition) No marks or hallmarks visible. Measurements: 8 1/2" high from loop to point of spade; 5 3/4" wide at widest.
Date: 1975/1999
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Necklace

Description: Necklace of silver beads and pendant cowrie shells. Formed as a plaque or panel suspended from black yarn, the necklace consists of rows of small silver beads terminating in larger reeded beads, from which hang cowrie shells enhanced with silver beads and smaller silver bead pendants.
Date: 1975/1999
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Wedding necklace

Description: Maasai wedding necklace. Necklace is constructed as a 1-1/2” wide circular neckpiece beaded in predominantly black and blue seed beads with a trapezoidal placket hanging from the center front bottom. Three strands of seed beads, two white with a center strand of black, hang from the base of the trapezoidal placket; each strand ends in a cowrie shell. The entire necklace is bordered in alternating black and white seed beads with the interior of the circular neckpiece being lined in two rows of light blue seed beads. Necklace closes with a handmade wire hook & eye.
Date: 2000/2010
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Sari

Description: Indian Sari Ensemble of light green georgette with black machine embroidery and silver beading. a) Short-sleeve choli (blouse) with hook & eye closure at center front. Floral embroidery and beading. b) Sari with matching embroidery/beading.
Date: 1950/2000
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Dress - Kutchi Group, Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan.

Description: Kutchi Dress of the Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan. Full-length. Bodice of various fabrics and embellishments. Rounded neckline with slight standing/band collar of primarily yellow bead-work with blue bead squares containing red bead centers. "Collar" below neckline of pendant silver-colored coins. Shoulder areas of purple with primarily yellow stitching forming scroll-work. Front "bib" of dark red outlined with same bead-work as neckline, and sewn with 9 horizontal rows of green tear-drop shaped beads and a line of silver-colored coins. Center part of bodice of black fabric with all-over red reflective circles. Wide "waist" of dress with geometric bead-work band of white, green, red, blue, and orange, with band of small circular mirrors and two lower borders of fringe tipped with white and green beads, and lowest border of coins. Sleeves of dark green velvet with bands of rickrack of silver and gold, and stitching matching the shoulder areas. Edged with bead-work and with row of silver-colored coins. Skirt is full-length, and full, and is of dark blue/black fabric printed with white and grey pattern of small flower blossoms, paisley shapes, dots, leaves, etc. Hem of dress with wide embroidered band, upper section with horizontal band of squares of various colors (reddish, green, orange, pale green, purple), center band of yellow, and lower band of reddish/magenta. Unlined. No labels or tags.
Date: 1950~
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Temple dancer costume

Description: Thai temple dancer costume with jewelry and head piece, including: A) Skirt in wrap style of black cotton printed in gold and red scroll design. Ankle length. Closure of two hook & bars on 1" waistband. B) Bodice/top of red synthetic satin. Strapless. Center back hook & eye closure. D) Shoulder drape of green tulle (narrow). E) Waist drape of green tulle. Constructed with three pleats across the top, large hanging triangle at the center and hanging drape off of one end.
Date: 1975/2000
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Festival ensemble

Description: Thailand - Hmong Hill Tribe Festival Attire A) Bodice of Black satin bodice with square neckline. Neckline "framed by embellished bands consisting of red outer and inner borders, "zig-zags" of red and blue bands, and applied flower-shaped pink and iridescent sequins with beads. Bands extend down front of bodice, and are around cuffs of the long sleeves. Around the neckline and cuffs of the 3/4-length sleeves are hung beaded pendants with silver-colored coins. Front opening along left side vertical band, with 4 hidden snaps. Unlined. No labels or tags in garment. B) Skirt, Knee- or Below-Knee-Length skirt of finely pleated black fabric. Wrap style, with plain panels at ends. Narrow waistband. Unlined, but faced at ends and with band near hem. No labels or tags in garment. C) Apron, Vertical front panel of black satin with an embellished "frame" composed of wide bands of decoration. Red outer and inner borders, "zig-zags" of red and blue bands, and applied flower-shaped pink and iridescent sequins with beads. Hung in rows across the apron are beaded pendants with silver-colored coins. Wide waistband matching the "frame" of the vertical panel, hung with beaded/coin pendants along most of lower edge. No labels or tags in garment. The following parts have separate records, not housed with garment: D) D) Hat. Hat formed of an open circle of black nylon(?) satin lined in black cotton. Upper portion with wide "rim" projecting out, from which hangs a fringe of white/clear beads, each of the 43 strands ending in a French Indo-China 10 centime coins, . The main body of the hat is covered with a "trellis" of blue and red ribbon, within each intersection there is a pink or white flower-head bead. Width: 10" (approx); Circumference: 32 1/2" (approx); Height: 4" without fringe. E) Necklace
Date: 1970/2000
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Festival ensemble

Description: Festival garment of Karen Hill Tribe A) Tunic. Black cotton square mid-length tunic, sides sewn except arm-holes, vertical slit at center front/back to form head-hole/neckline. Head-hole slit and arm holes edged with tiny white seeds. Body of tunic with horizontal bands of embroidery in various patterns (checkerboards, zig-zags, diamonds, "flowers") and colors (red, green, yellow, purple, pink, blue, orange), and horizontal bands of white seeds. At each side, and at center front and center back are "tassels" formed from the embroidery yarn. Bottom edge of tunic with fringe. Unlined. No labels or tags in garment. B) Skirt. Wrap skirt formed of rectangular panel of hand-woven cotton with horizontal woven wide stripes of red and black, with narrow stripes of green white, yellow, red, and black. Narrow ends with embroidered bands/edging of white triangles, red, yellow, green, pink, white, black, brown, etc. geometric inter-lace forms. 32 1/4" x ca. 68". No labels or tags in garment. c ) Necklace of nickel silver, large disk.
Date: 1970/2000
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Festival ensemble

Description: Turkish festival costume machine embroidered on bright orange cotton. a) Jacket b) pants (chalwar /shalwar style) c) shirt (cotton, embroidered) white, tunic length d) Rectangular belt of orange cotton, embellished with machine embroidery in metallic threads of gold, purple, green, etc. in scroll, scallop, floral and vine forms. Lined with greenish cotton. Secures with single snap. Attached to lower edge at right side is small pouch, rectangular, with curved lower side, edged with metallic lace and embellished on both sides with similar embroidery, vines, scalloped lines, flower heads, etc. Center panel of pouch with embroidered character(s). e) Fez style hat of orange cotton, shaped like a truncated, flat-top cone. Top of crown is embellished with machine embroidery in metallic threads of gold, purple, green, etc. in scroll, scallop, and vine forms. Sides of crown with horizontal bands of similar embroidery, vines, scalloped lines, flower heads, etc. From off-center at top of hat is gold cord tassel.
Date: 1950
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Wedding ensemble

Description: Uzbekistan Wedding ensemble a) Pants - ikat in diagonal stripes, white, pinks, purples, etc. and with green upper panels b) Dress - matching ikat, no green panels c) Coat - Purple, embroidery, floral edging d) Veil- white, embroidered, beads, etc. f) Face shield of matching silk ikat covered cardboard with gold fringe along bottom edges. Machine embroidered in yellow lotus(?) flowers with gold bugle bead centers. E) Headpiece. Ornate headpiece of cardboard in the kokoshnik style. Large, triangular panel is covered in gold couched metallic cording with beaded rosettes and sequin backgrounds. Lower edge with fringe of gold beads ending in gold teardrop beads. Upper edge with multicolored row of feathers. Elastic strap across back holding it into shape, and to secure to wearer's head.
Date: 1970/2000
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Festival ensemble

Description: Festival outfit of the Boysun Tribe, Surxondaryo (Surkhandarya) Province, southern Uzbekistan. a ) Dress of maroon silk with multicolored cotton Suzani-style embroidered floral designs. Knee-length(+/-), with slight v-neckline and collar. Slight gathers/pleats into yoke just below neckline. Embroidery in panels/sections over much of the garment, with white scrolling vine forms, green leaf forms, blue, yellow, and white "snowflake"/roundel motifs, green, red, orange, pink, and white plant forms. Scattered multicolored sequins within some of the embroidery. 3/4-length sleeves with same decoration. Yoke with lining of off-white cotton. Main body of garment unlined. Hem appears to either have been let down, or come out. No labels or tags in garment. b ) Headscarf of woven ikat in blue, yellow, maroon, and off-white. Rectangular, with fringe at narrow ends. To be wrapped around the head in a turban-like fashion. 16 1/4" wide x 68" long w/out fringe. No labels or tags. c ) Chirpy. Jacket-like head cover of thin cotton(?) fabric woven with vertical stripes of pink, yellow, red, green, blue, pale purple, etc. Center front opening with no closures, edged with embroidered band with green outer stripes, reddish inner stripes, and central band of black with scrolling forms in white and orange. Vertical bands from yoke to about waist of groups of triangles in rust, green, purple, blue, yellow, black, white, and pink, a band of checker-board in black, rectangular sections with extending "crosses" in same colors as triangles, and black embroidered "zig-zag" band with "blossoms" extending from zigs on one side, in various colors. Hem is unfinished. At back are hanging panels evolved from the sleeves that hung in back when a real jacket was worn as head-cover. The back panels are tapering rectangles, and are joined about mid-back by thin black tie. "Sleeves" with embroidery as front, with additional bands …
Date: 1960/2000
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Festival ensemble

Description: Rabari Tribe Festival Attire: A) Kanchali (Jacket/Vest/Top): Backless top with short sleeves and "V" neckline in front. Front and side panels covered with embroidery, primarily geometric designs, in rusts, orange, white, blue, yellow, green, and white. Three ties in back, at neck, upper, and middle back. Partly lined in red fabric. No labels or tags in top. B) Ghaghro (Skirt): Full-length skirt of heavy red fabric. Drawstring waist. Waistband with horizontal bands of: Vertical purple, yellow, and red striped silky fabric; thin band of red fabric; thin band of green fabric; thin band of orange fabric; thin band of black fabric. Body of skirt gathered into the waistband. Two horizontal rows of repeated large embroidered motifs of potted flowers with pairs of birds, interspersed with smaller motifs of flowers. Each design with inset small circular mirrors in embroidered frames. Lower section/hem with wide band of embroidered and appliqued decorations. From top: "wave" line with leaf-shaped forms, horizontal band of hearts laid side-ways with connecting line; Large band with flower heads, fines and leaves, with mirrors at center of each flower; Scroll with alternating leaf forms; Blue wave line, orange line, green line, orange wave line, purple line, orange line, green line, purple line, wide band of dark purple with diamond-stitching; purple line; black line; red line; green line; orange line; purple line; red line. Unlined. No labels or tags in skirt. C) Ohdni (Head scarf/shawl): Large pieced rectangular shawl in red, blue, brown, and black. Ornamented with embroidery, applique, mirrors, and band of coins. Central square set with large and small mirrors in rows, with embroidered borders/frames of red and purple. Set around central square are appliqued "Maltese cross" forms of white and orange fabric set with mirrors. Ends with large red panels repeating the "Maltese cross" forms but without …
Date: 1950/2000
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Ensemble - Egyptian Traditional Ensemble

Description: Egyptian Ensemble. A) Galabeya. Full-length galabeya of black cotton, with rounded neckline cut at base to for a shallow "V". Caftan style, with long sleeves and slit from hem upwards on right side. Front of galabeya with embroidered and applique decoration. Around neck and front of bodice is floral decoration and scrolls in gold, greens, red, and blue, and central shield-shaped gold satin applique piece with embroidered scroll work in gold and blue. Lower part of galabeya with matching, but inverted similar gold satin appliques with embroidered scrolls, and embroidered floral forms. Long sleeves with thin rectangular embroidered gold bands along wrist. Unlined. B) Head Scarf. Rectangle of fine red fabric, lower edge scalloped. Upper edge with sewn border incorporating spaced gold cylindrical beads. Ends of scarf and scalloped area of lower edge with thin crocheted/sewn band with spaced gold tear-drop beads and simulated gold coins. Applied to center of scarf are two bands of red crocheted/knitted net with gold spherical beads and pendant simulated gold coins.
Date: 1975/2000
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Festival ensemble

Description: Festival Attire, Hmong Tribe, Eastern Thailand-Western Laos. A) Bodice. Waist/upper hip-length, of black velvet with all-over printed pattern in textured "paint" of leaves/flowers in dark reds/purples done in "dots", outlined in silvery white. No collar. Center front opening edged on inside with wide band of needlework with "zig-zag" in red, pink, and green cross-stitch, bordered in green and yellow, and in band of sparkly silver ovals containing green, red, and yellow metallic reflective strands. Outer edge of "saw teeth" in groups of red, green, pale green, and white. Cuffs of the long sleeves with same wide bands. Back of bodice with "flap" at neck, edged with pink and green, upper section of black cloth with printed flowers in green, pink, purple, and white, edged in places with gold. Lower part of flap of cross-stitch/needlework in pink and green with dark on white forming zig-zig-based pattern. Bodice lined in white fabric printed with dense, all-over pattern of small purple flowers with green leaves. No labels or tags in bodice. b) Skirt. Wrap-style skirt, knee-length or lower. Wide woven blue waistband into which main body of skirt is tightly pleated. Upper section of skirt of plain blue fabric. Lower part of a blue denim-like fabric similar to waistband (indigo dyed) with white resist pattern of bands and blocks and circles. This panel, itself pleated into upper panel, is embellished with horizontal bands of pink/magenta stitching, and a band of green ribbon with pink diamond shapes. Long blue fabric ties. No tags or labels in skirt. c) Apron. Narrow "apron" set horizontally. Waistband consist of (from top to bottom): Band of printed fabric with narrow blue border with blue printed design, then band of blue with white flowerheads separated by gold "x" shapes, then thinner lower border; Wider band of needlework with pink …
Date: 1970/2000
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Festival ensemble

Description: Hmong Hill Tribe festival ensemble, Thailand/Laos A) Bodice/jacket. Jacket of black velour, waist-length. Center front opening with no closures. On either side is wide applied band of embroidery in pink, green, white, and metallic gold, with braid border and outer colored "saw-tooth" edges of pink, green, red, and white triangles. Mid-length sleeves with matching wide bands at cuffs. Back of jacket with small square "flap" hanging from neckline made with same embroidered band. Fully lined in blue cloth printed with all-over dense floral pattern in pinks, blue, green, white, and yellow. No labels or tags in garment. B) Skirt. Mid-length skirt of various fabrics in horizontal bands. Uppermost band of black cotton(?) with elastic waistband. Next band from top is of blue cotton(?) heavily pleated into upper band, and with horizontal red lines embroidered/sewn in - one near top of panel, two near bottom of panel, with narrow band of "lattice" embroidered between the lower lines. Third panel from top is a dark brown/black more open-weave fabric with subtle reddish threads forming a repeated design of squares(?) around the band. This band has narrow dark purple velvet bands near the edges. Bottom band of skirt is a black velour. Unlined. No labels or tags in garment. C) Apron. Long vertical panel of black velour "novelty fabric" printed in metallic neon colors in a design of stylized feathers and shapes, with all-over blue iridescent(?) "sequin" dots. Front of apron with applied vertical bands of machine embroidered decoration in pinks, greens, white, and red consisting of heart shapes containing pairs of birds, within frames of spirals, zig-zags, straight lines, etc. forming diamond-shapes. Bands edged with pink ribbon. Running vertically down apron are three rows of small flower heads of colored felt(?) with golden metallic beads and opalescent/sparkly plastic flower-heads. Reverse of apron …
Date: 1970/2000
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Temple dancer costume

Description: Thai traditional temple dancer ensemble of yellow, green and red. a) Bustier style top of yellow/orange synthetic. Center back hook & eye closure. b) Skirt of red satin synthetic with horizontal rows of gold trimmed and white pleated decorations. Ankle length; elastic waist. c,d,e) Belt/panniers of green satin synthetic constructed with two strung on pleated/folded panels. f) Panel of green synthetic satin with jeweled edging.
Date: 1975/2010
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
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