Cloche hat of embroidered pink linen. The slightly domed crown is made of pink linen with all-over tiny white embroidered polka-dots. The matching brim is turned up at front, sewn to crown, and descends at sides, turning downwards at back. At center back the brim is split, with a bow of the same fabric affixed at the split. The hat is lined with white silk. There are no labels or tags in the hat. The hat is accompanied by a necktie/scarf of the same fabric. Original records indicate the set is probably French in origin.
Cloche style hat of tan wool felt. Scalloped, upturned brim trimmed with tan grosgrain. Small, circular, concave piece of trim in same material added to crown as trim. One hatpin with gray felt head. Unlined. Inside of crown stamped: "Made in France" Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Made to Order Hat / Bergdorf / Goodman / Fifth Ave. at 58th St."
Cloche-style hat of pink fur felt. Lattice-work design in strips of same fabric surrounds crown and forms knot at side. Unlined. Pink grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Stamp on crown: "Helios / Body Made in Italy" Designer's label: "Schiaparelli / Paris"
Cloche-style hat of blue/gray feathers. The crown of the hat is made of dark blue mesh overlaid with a mosaic of blue/gray feathers. Brimless, the lower edge of the crown arcs upwards at front and slightly in back. The hat is lined in the mesh, and has an inner hatband at the lower inside edge of the crown. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Made In / France", "Christian Dior / Paris"
Cloche style hat of royal blue felt. Wide brimmed with sunken crown. Hatband of matching blue grosgrain ribbon and band of blue feathers partially held in place by a banded slit cut through the crown as trim. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Molyneux / 5. Rue Royale / Made in France"
Cloche style hat of fur felt in charcoal gray blending to lighter gray at top of crown. Brim turns up in back with folded tab of self as trim. Black leather belt-style hatband with red buckle. Designer label sewn onto inside silk hatband: "Cannes Barritz / Jean Patou / 7, Rue St. Florentin / Paris"
Cloche hat of wine colored felt with rose beige crushed velvet trim at upturned front and facing. Designer's label: "Florence Walton / 9.rue Saint Florentine. Paris" Tag attached to designer's label: "Made in France"
Cloche style hat of black Milan straw cloth with small, slightly pointed front brim. Hat is folded across width of crown towards front. Narrow black velvet ribbon trim meeting to form a bow at front with wreath of folded ribbon at base of bow. Unlined with elastic band to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Louise Bourbon (barely legible) / 13 Rue Royale Paris" Tag attached to designer's label: "Made in France"
Coat of deep pink and white plaid wool. Double breasted with six circular plastic deep pink buttons and covered buttonholes. Bracelet length sleeves; street length. Two front vertical single welt pockets. Half belt across back of same material with two circular plastic deep pink buttons and covered buttonholes at ends. Lined in deep pink silk. Designer's label: "Balenciaga / 10, Avenue George V. Paris"
Coat of silk gazar with a printed pattern of red and white polka dots on a black background. The mid-length to below-knee length coat has a rolled collar and short sleeves with princess seaming. There is a center-front opening with 5 circular buttons covered with black gazar, and with piped buttonholes. At some seams are applied whole red or white polka dots where the seams had "cut" printed polka dots. Coat has designer's label at inside back, below collar: "Givenchy", folded over and sewn in a way that obscures the rest of the label: "Made In / France". This coat is part of an ensemble that includes a dress of black gazar, and has matching shoes of same fabric made by Roger Vivier of Paris (1979.011.076) Donor notes: "This is the fabric that was invented for Balenciaga and now only Givenchy can have it .... [the coat] is made so that if a dot had to be cut in half at a noticeable place, Givenchy had a whole dot appliqued over it. Monsieur Givenchy does not do this tedious handwork for all clients."
Sleeveless coat of navy on white zebra printed wool. The street-length coat is of slight A-line, widening to hem. It has wide straps, no collar, and center front opening with 5 circular dark blue plastic buttons. At each hip is a patch pocket with simulated flap, the fabric of the pockets chosen to match the placement on the print. The coat is fully lined in navy fabric. Inside neckline at back is designer's label "Givenchy", folded so that "Made In / France" is not visible. This coat is part of an ensemble that includes a blue wool jersey knit top and slacks. Donor noted that it was "Made for Monte Carlo for day wear". There is also a hat that was worn with the ensemble (1978.013.062)
Coat of intricate patchwork of Prince of Wales wool plaid, wool hounds tooth, wool petit point, all-over embroidered with pewter metallic floral vines. Knee length. Simulated double breasted, off-center opening with hidden placket button closure; notched collar. Long sleeves with 6 functioning button closure at wrists. Two flap pockets with welts at each front hip with lapels; pockets not open. Knee-length. Fan pleating at back. Fully lined in gray silk. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Givenchy / Haute Couture"
Daytime coat of beige linen. Single breasted with three cream colored, circular, plastic buttons and bound buttonholes. Long, raglan sleeves with 4" cuffs. Notched collar. Street length. Side slit pockets. Lined in black silk. Designer's label at inside right seam of lining under arm hole: "Christian Dior / Paris / Made in France"
Coat of brown camel's hair. Street length with wide, flat collar and lapels. Two patch pockets with flaps on front. Double breasted with four buttons (two and two) closure and attached matching belt. Belt is in three segments, with non-functional buttons "attaching" the segments at back. Lined in brown silk. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Automne-Hiver 1970 / Christian Dior / Paris" Stamped on label: "152510"
Coat in trench style of burgundy satin with burgundy dyed fox fur trim on shawl collar and cuffs. Full-length; center front opening. Vertical side welt pockets. Lined in black silk. With tie belt of burgundy satin, 1 1/2" wide; top-stitched. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Fourrure / Givenchy"
Coat of novelty wool in pale blue, brown, white, and purple in a plaid weave design. Center front opening with one large brown button and bound buttonhole at neck. Collarless; knee-length; bracelet length sleeves. Lined in olive green satin. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Tissus / Jacques S. Fath / Paris / Made in / France"
Coat of rust colored suede trimmed at cuffs, neck, center front opening and hem with cocoa colored fox fur. Thigh-length. No closure. Side slit pockets. Rust-colored quilted lining; heavily padded shoulders. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Givenchy" Handwritten style number label under designer label: "75288"
Coat dress of white textured silk; fitted back and loose draped front ending over left bust line with long flange to hem. Designer's Label at inside center back below collar " Printemps - Ete 1956 / Christian Dior / Paris / Made in France" and stamped on label: "789[(?) last number is illegible]"
Coat dress of navy silk faille with padded hips. Notched collar; single button closure. Long sleeves with vertical pleat across back shoulder to each sleeve hem. Lower mid-length skirt. Two crescent shaped pieces of fabric at hips with faux pocket detail gives the appearance of a separate jacket. Designer's label on inner right waist side seam: "Christian Dior/ New York/ Original" Tag above designer's label: "Fall 1949" Retailer's label on back of neck: "Neiman-Marcus/ Dallas" Belt of matching navy leather. Stamped on back of belt: "10 Christian Dior / New York"
Coat dress of brown silk faille in "Ottoman" style. Knee or street length, with turndown collar and slight V neckline. Darts at bust for fit. Four button closures at center front with bound buttonholes, two above and two below waist/belt. Hook and eyes at waistline. Long sleeves with rolled cuffs and underarm gussets. In-seam pockets at sides. Flared skirt, pleated in back. Simulated "shirtwaist" decoration at front of skirt. Unlined. Designer's label at inside back collar: "Made in / France"; "Autumne-Hiver 1952 / Christian Dior / Paris"; stamped: "2????" [mostly illegible], on label With matching belt of brown suede. Self-covered buckle of narrow, vertical rectangles secures with hook and bar closure; 1-1/4" wide.
Coat dress of black wool knit. Mid-calf length. Open, short collar with points trimmed with bullet-shaped silver metal accents; V-neckline. Long sleeves have seams sewn flat to form ridge along top of sleeve, with turned back cuffs forming "wings" trimmed with two shield-shaped metal studs. Slit up 6 inches from hem at center front seam. Center front zipper closure running from V of neckline almost to the top of the hem slit; two hooks & eyes at top of zipper. Applied panels of same material at sides with extending "flames". Back of bodice is gathered at waist with half-belt and black plastic buckle in stylized arrowhead shape. Unlined; shoulder pads. Label: "Thierry Mugler / Paris / Made in France" Size "42" tag at base of designer label. Evidence of removed label.
Cocktail dress of black silk gazar. The halter-style neckline of the dress ends in straps at center back of the fitted, dropped-waist bodice. The skirt is a semi-full, gathered, mid-thigh length. There is a boned inner bodice of black silk tulle with bust pads, grosgrain bust and waist stays fastening with hooks-and-eyes, an elaborate closure involving halter drape and inner and outer zippers down the left sideseam and five snaps that secure the halter panel and disguise the zipper. Fully lined in black chiffon. Label stitched on right side of inner bodice "Givenchy" and "Made In France". Underneath Givenchy label is sewn-in tape with hand-written note: "80 945"
Cocktail dress of fuschia (cranberry) silk with black feather print; bodice has round neckline and three-quarter length sleeves; skirt is knee-length and very full, gathered at waist and covered by a short piece of self fabric.
Cocktail dress of yellow lace and organza. The strapless, knee-length dress is of yellow inlay Spanish lace, with a slim line skirt that gathers at empire waist. It has a center back zipper with hook & eye closure at top. The bodice has a built-in corset-like support of boning and white net with white grosgrain ribbon waist band, the whole securing at back with 8 hook & eye closures. Lined in yellow silk. A removable, wide band of pleated yellow organza with tapered ends embellished with matching lace appliqués attaches with hooks and eyes at the waist of the dress, giving the effect of a narrow stole. The dress also has an accompanying very large matching yellow organza stole/wrap with matching lace appliqués at each end.
Cocktail dress of beige wool crepe with faux black Astrakhan. The below-knee-length dress has a slight cowl neckline and bloused effect on the bodice and short sleeves. The full skirt is cartridge pleated into a wide band of black wool faux Astrakhan at slightly dropped waist. Dress has center back zipper on lining, connecting to outside of dress at waistline; blouse portion closes at center back with 8 covered snaps and 3 hook-and-eyes on neckline. Lined in cream organdy. Designer's label at center back seam: "Christian Dior - New York, Inc." Retailer's label to left of designer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" Union label on side of seam opposite retailer's label.
Cocktail dress of sheer black silk chiffon and lace over tan silk lining. Sleeveless; round neckline. Unlined sheer chiffon above bust. Knee-length; waist seam. Skirt has 5 tiers of chiffon each edged with 2" black lace. Tiers start at center front, wrap around body and attach again at left near side seam. Top tier shows lace on left attaching to waist seam. Center back zipper covered by snap closures. Bodice has 5 small black covered buttons at center back. Interior has a built-in corset with boning. Designer's label inside at side seam: "Made in France / Automne-Hiver 1964 / Christian Dior / Paris"; stamped on label: "125104"
Cocktail dress of dark navy blue silk satin. Strapless with fitted bodice. Open pleats over bust with mock bow and attached 14'' wide stole lined with silk organza which drapes over right shoulder and down back. Straight skirt with small inverted pleats at each hip bone, 23 1/2'' long from waist. Center back 24'' zipper closing with hook and eye at top and waist line. French netting, boned bustier with black grosgrain ribbon and hook & eye closure on inside. Skirt is lined to hip front and back with navy taffeta. Designer's label at center front bottom of bustier: "Christian Dior Original / Made In U.S.A. / Christian Dior - New York, Inc. / Trademark" Retailer's label to left of designer's label: "Neiman-Marcus"
Cocktail ensemble of silver (pale lavender?) heavy faille moire consisting of: A) Cocktail dress. 3/4 length. Sleeveless with thin straps. Shallow V-neck. Natural waist with a bias cut, 1-1/4" set-in waistband between skirt and bodice trimmed with a center, non-functioning gray plastic button. Fitted bust with gores at bust and under-arm. Inverted pleats at front and back center. Center back zipper closure with hook & eye closure at base of bodice. Cream satin lining in bust which descends to become sheath inside skirt. Skirt lined with net. Designer's label at inside center bust: "Made in France / Autumne-Hiver 1952 / Christian Dior / Paris" Stamped "20445" on label. Handwritten label behind designer's label: "250516" B) Matching bolero jacket. Cropped to waist, long sleeves. No collar. Slight V at top of neckline, with deeper "inset" V at bottom. Center front opening with 3 circular gray buttons at base of jacket. Lined in cream silk matching lining of dress. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Made in France / Autumne-Hiver 1952 / Christian Dior / Paris" Stamped "20446" on label. Handwritten label behind designer's label: "250517"
Cocktail hat of black velvet. The hat has a high, cylindrical crown with flattened top, and a wide brim which curves downwards. Around the base of the crown is tied a wide piece of black net veiling, with bow at back. The veiling "pools" on the sides and front of the brim, and then extends down to cover wearer's face. The brim is lined with the same velvet, while the crown is lined in black satin, with an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label inside: "Givenchy / Paris"; "Made in / France"
Cocktail hat of draped brown silk. The hat, reminiscent of a turban, is a soft crown construction, gathered into horizontal folds at front with a rhinestone set clip shaped as an "8", one "s" curve set with rectangular stones, the other with three rows of circular stones. Interior lined in brown mesh, with inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. At front of inner hatband is attached small comb to help secure hat to wearer's head. Accompanied by a small hatpin, the head covered with same fabric.
Cocktail suit of black silk satin consisting of: A) Waist-length jacket formed of vertically arranged heat-set pleats with five horizontal bands applied across the pleats. There is a panel of ivory/off-white silk extending from the neck of the jacket, forming the collar of the jacket and simulating the effect of a blouse being worn under the jacket. The long sleeves are also pleated, with single band near the base of the sleeves, from which extend ivory/off-white silk mock cuffs. Center front opening with three applied black bows on the lower three horizontal bands. The opening is secured with three hook-and-loop closures hidden by the bows. Lined in black silk. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Chanel" Style number tag beneath designer's label: "10967" B) Matching mid-length skirt of similarly pleated black silk, with a plain waistband and a single horizontal black silk band 2" below the waistband. Three hook-and-loops in the waistband, and four snaps along closure at left hip. Skirt has a single panel of organza lining in back, the rest of the skirt being unlined to allow more movement of the fabric.
Three piece cocktail suit of black quilted silk damask consisting of: Sleeveless tunic overdress, knee-length, constructed as an "apron", with back opening which overlaps and secures with three covered buttons. Dress is sleeveless, with rounded neckline, slightly raised waist, princess seaming, and skirt which is slightly flaring at hips and then becoming tubular. Underskirt skirt, with wide hem of the same damask which extends 8 inches below hem of dress, creating a layered look. Matching jacket with Bermuda collar, double breasted with three double rows of braided buttons and straight bracelet-length fitted sleeves. Designer's label: "Givenchy / Paris" Handwritten label underneath designer's label: "28554" Costumer's tag: "Don. Mrs. Audrey Hepburn"
Day dress of red ribbed wool. Squared neckline; 3/4 length sleeves. Set-in waistline with attached 1-1/2" wraparound belt that closes in back with 2 hook & eyes and a snap. Below knee length. Center front opening with 7 hook & eyes on waistband and 7 red, circular, plastic buttons and bound buttonholes below waistband. Lined in red silk; bodice lining is sleeveless with center front zipper closure. Designer's label at right seam of bodice lining: "Automne-Hiver 1953 / Christian Dior / Paris / Made in France" and stamped on designer's label: "36416" Style number label under designer's label, illegible: "--6--4"
Day dress of white cotton drill consisting of: A) Jacket. Two vertical welt mock pockets at upper sides. Long, full set-in sleeves, gathered at shoulders with 2-1/2" cuffs and small white plastic button with tailored buttonhole. Wrap shawl collar with 2" ruffle two hook & eyes as closure. Short peplum. Unlined. With belt of self. 1" x 38" with D-ring closure. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Kenzo / Paris" Size tag "M" and fiber content/cleaning instructions tag attached to bottom of designer's label. B) Skirt in wrap around style. Knee length. Continental pockets at sides. Closure of 2 buttons (one missing) and hook & eye. Unlined. Designer's label at center back: "Kenzo / Paris" Size "42" tag and fiber content/cleaning instructions tag attached to bottom of designer's label.
Day dress of green corduroy with blue, red and black trim. Drop waist style with 3 tier gathered skirt; below knee length. Center front placket opening with 3 small green buttons and loops. Long gathered sleeves with 2-1/4" cuffs with matching button and barred buttonhole. Gathered ruff collar. Unlined. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Kenzo / Paris" Size and fiber/cleaning instruction tags below designer's label.
Day dress of brown silk damask in fine diamond pattern. The dress is in wrap-around style, with asymmetric neckline with wide, shawl collar on the left. Street length. Opening buttons on bodice at left with 4 circular, brown buttons and bound buttonholes, hook & eye at natural waist and two snaps where skirt attaches to peplum. Peplum is asymmetric and longer on left. Long dolman sleeves with underarm gussets and folded back cuffs. With matching belt.
Day dress of pale blue/gray wool. Above the knee length; short sleeves. Bodice is yoked to give appearance of a "cropped jacket" with small V at center front and deep, inverted V below. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Half belt of self at back attaches at ends with two gray, plastic, circular buttons with bound buttonholes. Mock flap pockets at sides. Lined in ivory silk. Designer's label at center front neckline: "Courrèges / Paris" Stamped at right edge of designer's label "A1418"
Day dress in shift style of off-white wool knit. Knee length; short sleeves. High front yoke with small V at center front. Empire seaming. Side seam slit pockets run through center front of dress to form one continuous pocket. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Lined in cream silk. Designer's label at center front neckline: "Courreges / Paris" Label at back neckline to left of zipper: "Made In France"
Day dress of white sateen cotton. Sleeveless with square yoked bodice and triangular gussets at underarm. Knee-length. Below bust, down to hem, are horizontal lines of top-stitching every 2". Two square front patch pockets at hips. Skirt flares out from below bust to hem. At center front is a 4" long decorative, white plastic zipper, below is a small white "AC" logo in vinyl. Back zipper closure with hook & eye. Unlined. Designer's label inside back by zipper: "Courrèges / Paris / made in france, Style number stamped on designer's label: "0032354". Fabric/care label attached below designer's label: "Fabrique in France / Made in France / Dry Clean Only / No Bleach Do Not Iron / Nettoyer Par Un Teinturier / Tout Detergent Industriel Interdit / Repassage Deconseille / [symbols for cleaning] / Modele/Style 14 / Coloris/Color Blanc White / Taille/Size B / 100% Cotton Cotton 100% / Garniture/Ornament / 100% Polyvinyl Saran 100%"
Day dress in sheath style of turquoise blue wool knit. Knee-length, with short sleeves and banded collar. Diagonal, 2" welt pockets at side hips. Center back opening of 7 circular turquoise plastic buttons with bound buttonholes, two snaps at neckline, and two hook & eyes on collar. Lined in white synthetic. Designer's label at back neckline: "Modèle / Guy Laroche / Paris / Diffusé Par Maria Carine / Made in France" Handwritten style number label below designer label: "LR E6531 Rapp(?) 8" Retailer's(?) label at right side seam is cut: "i.m. / Made in France"
Day dress of bright yellow linen. Sleeveless with jewel neckline; contrasting, darker yellow top-stitching. Empire waist. Two paddle shaped patch pockets at sides with 1-1/4" non-functional buttons covered in white vinyl set in "handle" of each "paddle". Center back invisible zipper with hook & eye. Lined in bright yellow satin synthetic, with narrow band of pale yellow lace along selvage edge of fabric. Designer's label at center back to left of zipper: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York" Care label at inside back below zipper: "Dry Clean / Only" Union label by care label. Manufacturing label at inside center back below zipper: Order 2; 6764 / Style 10(?) / Size 10 / Remarks [blank], partly over-stamped "235 10"
Two piece ensemble of ivory bouclé mohair. a) Day dress. Sleeveless bodice of ivory silk. High waist and straight skirt of ivory bouclé. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Skirt lined in silk matching bodice. Designer's label at inside right side seam " Autumne - Hiver 1963 / Christian Dior / Paris" Style number stamped on label: "20980" b) Jacket/over blouse; box style. Front placket with 6 mother-of-pearl 1" non-functioning buttons and bound buttonholes gives a double breasted appearance. Rolled collar which wraps around neckline is fastened with a matching button and loop and 12 covered snaps. Long, set-in sleeves. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Lined in sheer, ivory organza.
Daytime ensemble of brown silk consisting of: A) Dress. Below-knee length, the dress has princess seaming to create fitted bodice, with wide V-neckline, 3/4" shoulder straps and straight skirt. 1" belt of self fabric from front darts to center back. Center back zipper. Unlined. Designer's label: "Christian Dior Original / Made in U.S.A. / Christian Dior - New York Inc." Retailer's label: "Harzfeld's / Kansas City" B) Jacket. Cropped jacket is pleated in front and back to a 3" waistband on which are three brass buttons 1/2" wide, and bound buttonholes. Long sleeves with 1-1/2" cuffs and one matching button per sleeve. Band collar has 10" tie ends and L-shaped lapel. Unlined.
Dinner dress and jacket ensemble of black wool; (a) Jacket: Short princess line black wool jacket; V-neckline with wide notched collar and wide lapels; full-length, set in, two piece sleeves; asymmetrical lapped front opening with one large, round, filligreed button with rhinestones and bound buttonhole; fully lined in black silk. Label stitched inside back neck below collar. (b) Dress: Matching sleeveless knee length dress with V-neckline in front due to surplice styled opening; fronts secure with four snaps and four hook&eyes; seam detail around bust; back neckline is square between straps; waistline seam with skirt gathering all around; lapped center-front opening in skirt with single hook&eye and two snaps; folded hem; fully lined in black silk. Label stitched inside on lining at right side seam. Size 12 BALENCIAGA, Paris
a) Dinner gown with black crepe skier and white faille bodice; bodice is hand embroidered in irridescent rhinestones, sequins, silver thread, and crystal drops. b) 2" sash of bright pink satin at natural waist.
Dress of turquoise colored sateen cotton. Sleeveless with square yoked bodice. Lines of horizontal top stitching over body of dress. Two front patch pockets. Center front decorative short, white, plastic zipper. Back zipper closure with hook & eye. Knee length, but hem has been removed. Designer's label at inside back zipper: "Courrèges / Paris / made in france" Style number stamped on designer's label:"0078019" Care instruction/fabric content tag attached to bottom of designer's label.
Dress of bright lime green wool. Knee-lenght and sleeveless, with a high neckline ornamented with 6 rows of topstitching. Empire waisted, with the lower portion of dress split into four long panels, scalloped to form petals with quilted, topstitched edges. Center back zipper with two hook & eyes. Upper portion of dress lined in lime colored acetate. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York" Retailer's label beneath designer's label: "Marie Leavell"
Dress of red satin and black velvet. The above-the-knee length dress has a fitted princess-line bodice with dropped waist and V-neckline. The long sleeves have moderate puff at shoulders, and wrist closure with four red satin covered buttons on each wrist. The turned-back cuffs are of black velvet, as is the wired, rolled collar. The full skirt gathers at the waistline. There is a center-back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at neckline, and the collar detaches to accommodate the opening. The dress is fully lined in red chiffon, with bust pads and hip stay band which fastens at center back with hook-and-eye. Designer's label is sewn inside at right side near armhole: "Givenchy" "Made in France". Underneath the designer's label is sewn a second label with hand-written notation "80535".
Evening dress of blue silk gazar. The full-length dress has a fitted bodice simulating a wrap style, with V neckline, and long straight sleeves with 5 fabric buttons at each wrist. The skirt has an asymmetrical peplum with an inverted opening in front that is equal to the floor length A-line skirt, giving the effect of an over-skirt pulled back to reveal an underskirt. At back is a zipper closure from neckline to below hips, with a series of snaps at the top of the peplum. The dress has an accompanying leather belt covered with the same blue silk gazar.
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