Cocktail hat of draped brown silk. The hat, reminiscent of a turban, is a soft crown construction, gathered into horizontal folds at front with a rhinestone set clip shaped as an "8", one "s" curve set with rectangular stones, the other with three rows of circular stones. Interior lined in brown mesh, with inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. At front of inner hatband is attached small comb to help secure hat to wearer's head. Accompanied by a small hatpin, the head covered with same fabric.
Cocktail suit of black silk satin consisting of: A) Waist-length jacket formed of vertically arranged heat-set pleats with five horizontal bands applied across the pleats. There is a panel of ivory/off-white silk extending from the neck of the jacket, forming the collar of the jacket and simulating the effect of a blouse being worn under the jacket. The long sleeves are also pleated, with single band near the base of the sleeves, from which extend ivory/off-white silk mock cuffs. Center front opening with three applied black bows on the lower three horizontal bands. The opening is secured with three hook-and-loop closures hidden by the bows. Lined in black silk. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Chanel" Style number tag beneath designer's label: "10967" B) Matching mid-length skirt of similarly pleated black silk, with a plain waistband and a single horizontal black silk band 2" below the waistband. Three hook-and-loops in the waistband, and four snaps along closure at left hip. Skirt has a single panel of organza lining in back, the rest of the skirt being unlined to allow more movement of the fabric.
Three piece cocktail suit of black quilted silk damask consisting of: Sleeveless tunic overdress, knee-length, constructed as an "apron", with back opening which overlaps and secures with three covered buttons. Dress is sleeveless, with rounded neckline, slightly raised waist, princess seaming, and skirt which is slightly flaring at hips and then becoming tubular. Underskirt skirt, with wide hem of the same damask which extends 8 inches below hem of dress, creating a layered look. Matching jacket with Bermuda collar, double breasted with three double rows of braided buttons and straight bracelet-length fitted sleeves. Designer's label: "Givenchy / Paris" Handwritten label underneath designer's label: "28554" Costumer's tag: "Don. Mrs. Audrey Hepburn"
Day dress of pale blue/gray wool. Above the knee length; short sleeves. Bodice is yoked to give appearance of a "cropped jacket" with small V at center front and deep, inverted V below. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Half belt of self at back attaches at ends with two gray, plastic, circular buttons with bound buttonholes. Mock flap pockets at sides. Lined in ivory silk. Designer's label at center front neckline: "Courrèges / Paris" Stamped at right edge of designer's label "A1418"
Day dress in shift style of off-white wool knit. Knee length; short sleeves. High front yoke with small V at center front. Empire seaming. Side seam slit pockets run through center front of dress to form one continuous pocket. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Lined in cream silk. Designer's label at center front neckline: "Courreges / Paris" Label at back neckline to left of zipper: "Made In France"
Day dress of white sateen cotton. Sleeveless with square yoked bodice and triangular gussets at underarm. Knee-length. Below bust, down to hem, are horizontal lines of top-stitching every 2". Two square front patch pockets at hips. Skirt flares out from below bust to hem. At center front is a 4" long decorative, white plastic zipper, below is a small white "AC" logo in vinyl. Back zipper closure with hook & eye. Unlined. Designer's label inside back by zipper: "Courrèges / Paris / made in france, Style number stamped on designer's label: "0032354". Fabric/care label attached below designer's label: "Fabrique in France / Made in France / Dry Clean Only / No Bleach Do Not Iron / Nettoyer Par Un Teinturier / Tout Detergent Industriel Interdit / Repassage Deconseille / [symbols for cleaning] / Modele/Style 14 / Coloris/Color Blanc White / Taille/Size B / 100% Cotton Cotton 100% / Garniture/Ornament / 100% Polyvinyl Saran 100%"
Day dress of bright yellow linen. Sleeveless with jewel neckline; contrasting, darker yellow top-stitching. Empire waist. Two paddle shaped patch pockets at sides with 1-1/4" non-functional buttons covered in white vinyl set in "handle" of each "paddle". Center back invisible zipper with hook & eye. Lined in bright yellow satin synthetic, with narrow band of pale yellow lace along selvage edge of fabric. Designer's label at center back to left of zipper: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York" Care label at inside back below zipper: "Dry Clean / Only" Union label by care label. Manufacturing label at inside center back below zipper: Order 2; 6764 / Style 10(?) / Size 10 / Remarks [blank], partly over-stamped "235 10"
Two piece ensemble of ivory bouclé mohair. a) Day dress. Sleeveless bodice of ivory silk. High waist and straight skirt of ivory bouclé. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Skirt lined in silk matching bodice. Designer's label at inside right side seam " Autumne - Hiver 1963 / Christian Dior / Paris" Style number stamped on label: "20980" b) Jacket/over blouse; box style. Front placket with 6 mother-of-pearl 1" non-functioning buttons and bound buttonholes gives a double breasted appearance. Rolled collar which wraps around neckline is fastened with a matching button and loop and 12 covered snaps. Long, set-in sleeves. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Lined in sheer, ivory organza.
Dinner dress and jacket ensemble of black wool; (a) Jacket: Short princess line black wool jacket; V-neckline with wide notched collar and wide lapels; full-length, set in, two piece sleeves; asymmetrical lapped front opening with one large, round, filligreed button with rhinestones and bound buttonhole; fully lined in black silk. Label stitched inside back neck below collar. (b) Dress: Matching sleeveless knee length dress with V-neckline in front due to surplice styled opening; fronts secure with four snaps and four hook&eyes; seam detail around bust; back neckline is square between straps; waistline seam with skirt gathering all around; lapped center-front opening in skirt with single hook&eye and two snaps; folded hem; fully lined in black silk. Label stitched inside on lining at right side seam. Size 12 BALENCIAGA, Paris
a) Dinner gown with black crepe skier and white faille bodice; bodice is hand embroidered in irridescent rhinestones, sequins, silver thread, and crystal drops. b) 2" sash of bright pink satin at natural waist.
Dress of turquoise colored sateen cotton. Sleeveless with square yoked bodice. Lines of horizontal top stitching over body of dress. Two front patch pockets. Center front decorative short, white, plastic zipper. Back zipper closure with hook & eye. Knee length, but hem has been removed. Designer's label at inside back zipper: "Courrèges / Paris / made in france" Style number stamped on designer's label:"0078019" Care instruction/fabric content tag attached to bottom of designer's label.
Dress of bright lime green wool. Knee-lenght and sleeveless, with a high neckline ornamented with 6 rows of topstitching. Empire waisted, with the lower portion of dress split into four long panels, scalloped to form petals with quilted, topstitched edges. Center back zipper with two hook & eyes. Upper portion of dress lined in lime colored acetate. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York" Retailer's label beneath designer's label: "Marie Leavell"
Dress of brown/beige coffee-colored wool. The short, A-line dress with shallow boat-neckline, short, cap-sleeves. Front and back of dress with diamond-shaped motif created by slot seams with cream background/under layer. Similar seaming across top of sleeves and joining diamond motifs around sides. Center back zipper with hook-and-eye at neckline. Lined in off-white silk(?). Designer's label: "Jean Marie Armand / Paris / Made in France" Retailer's label: "Made in France especially for / Neiman-Marcus"
Dress of cream woven silk. Below knee length with 13" side slits. Long sleeves. Standing neckline with left side curving to asymmetrical decorative trim embellished with 5 large circular black plastic buttons ending at natural waist at center front. Center back invisible zipper with 2 hook & eyes. Lined in cream synthetic fabric. Designer's label at back neckline to left of zipper: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York"
Bright red/orange wool dress and coat ensemble from 1st collection. a) Coat of bright red/orange wool. Long sleeves and collared neckline. Double breasted with large, covered snaps on inside as closure. Two pockets formed from panels on coat. Lined in red acetate. Designer's label at inside, back neckline: "Jean Marie Armand / Paris / Made in France" b) Dress . Bracelet length sleeves and jewel neckline. Knee length. Center front zipper. Hourglass shaped front panel forms pockets at left and right. Lined in red acetate. Designer's label at inside, back neckline: "Jean Marie Armand / Paris / Made in France"
Lounge ensemble in pink silks. The pantsuit consists of a blouse and pants. The blouse is of pink silk, constructed as two layers. The inner lining layer is of plain pink gauze. The outer layer is of pink silk heavily decorated with patterns created by shibori technique dying. The blouse has long sleeves and a center-front zipper closure that runs almost the entire length of the garment and has a single hook-and-eye at throat. The collar, cuffs, hem, and flap over the zipper are a small ruffle of the same materials. The shibori patterns use green, yellow, blue, and the original white of the fabric to create bands of tiny "puckers", large circular forms, and abstract shapes. The pants are of pink silk taffeta, about ankle length, with elastic cuffs. Plain waistband, with zipper closure at center front and single hook-and-eye at waistband. Described in early records as harem pants, but lacking the fullness associated with that style. Both garments have the same series of labels. Designer's label: "Martine Grandval / Made in France Paris"; material label "100% Silk"; and retailer's label: "ViV / Neiman-Marcus / Made in France". The shibori fabric may be of Indian, Pakistani, or Asian origin, based on the particular way that the shibori tye-dying technique has been used on the garment.
Ensemble consisting of three pieces. Full-length bodystocking is of heavy ivory wool knit, in a ribbed pattern running vertically throughout body and legs, and horizontally around arms. The garment has a turtle-neck and wide flaring cuffs at legs. Center back zipper opening from top of turtle-neck to mid-back. The black double knit wool micro-mini-skirt has four over-sized belt loops with pointed ends, and center back zipper closure. The ensemble includes a wide black patent-leather belt which secures with concealed snaps. Bodystocking has two labels. Designer's label inside at back near zipper: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York"; Material/size label on opposite side: "100% / Wool / L" The skirt has no labels. The belt is stamped on reverse: "12 1851" From the Fall 1969/1970 season. Records indicate that the ensemble was originally offered in the Maisonette Room of Neiman-Marcus.
a) Cocktail dress of dark green jacquard silk with black field in a pebble motif. Fitted bodice is sleeveless with slight scoop neckline. Gathered, A-line skirt with inseam pockets. Knee-length. Skirt lined in black silk and bodice partially lined at neck with black organza. Left shoulder separates with 5 snaps. Centered, left side zipper with strapped hook & eye. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "EISA" b) Coat of self fabric has sewn down, drawstring neckline. Three-quarter length raglan sleeves. Open front; knee-length. Fully lined in black taffeta with interlining of stiff netting for fullness. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "EISA"
Ensemble consisting of: a) Coat of silver lame with jeweled buttons lined in same black wool jersey as dress. b) Tunic top of black wool jersey. Sleeveless with two side slit pockets. Closure at back with two snaps and self-covered buttons. Lined in black silk. c) Pants of heavy black wool jersey. Double side zippers. Designer Label: "EISA"
Ensemble of oatmeal colored wool tweed: a) Jacket of beige and black wool tweed with V-neckline with standard notched collar and wide lapels; short, princess seams; 3/4 length, set in, two piece sleeves; double breasted opening with four round, plastic, beige buttons and two bound buttonholes supplemented by single large covered snap inside lap at waist; fully lined in beige silk. Label stitched inside back neck below collar. b) Dress of same; sleeveless; falling just below the knee; deep rounded neckline; empire waist seam; straight skirt has slight gathers in front; left side underarm zipper closure supplemented by single hook&eye closure; folded hem; armhole and neck facings; brassiere strap keepers snap inside shoulders; unlined.
Ensemble of pink and yellow silk bouclé, navy wool, and navy voile. The silk bouclé has a yellow plain weave ground with an overlay of supplemental warp and weft of pink silk. Ensemble consists of: A) Jacket in Chanel style, collarless, with long straight sleeves and 2" trim of crocheted navy and pink yarn at cuffs and around neckline, center front opening and hemline. Chanel stitch construction with chain inside hem. Lined in navy voile. Designer's label at inside back collar: "Chanel" Origin label below designer's label: "Made in France" B) Dress, sleeveless, with round neckline; decorative horizontal stitching on navy voile bodice with inset waistband and attached skirt of pink and yellow silk bouclé. Button closure at center back of bodice with 3 snaps at waistband and navy tied belt. Waistband closure of 3 hook & eyes; skirt has center back zipper. Skirt lined in matching navy voile fabric. Black grosgrain ribbon petersham with 2 hook & eyes. Origin label at center back neckline: "Made in France"
Evening dress of black and white wool satin gaberdine with matching jacket. a) Evening dress. Front and back centered panels of white fabric with sides of black fabric. Sleeveless, squared neckline, full length. Center back zipper closure. Very tailored, completely lined in white silk. Designer's label at inside back zipper: "Jean Marie Armand / Paris / Made in France" b) Jacket. Center front opening with four covered snaps. Bracelet length sleeves with turned-back cuffs in white fabric with one pointed end. Peter Pan collar in white fabric. Front and back centered panels of white fabric with sides and sleeves of black fabric. Completely lined in white silk. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Jean Marie Armand / Paris / Made in France"
Cream silk jersey evening dress / ballgown with beaded decoration and matching belt. A) Full-length gown, bodice embellished with hand-embroidered stylized leaves/buds in cream on a ground of silver, green, and mauve beads. Shoulders and thin collar with solid fields of beading. Short, wide sleeves edged with silver and clear beads. Center back opening with hook-and-eyes at top and bottom, no closure along mid-back. Plain cream silk jersey skirt, gathered into waist. Closure at right hip, with band of hook-and-eyes along back waistline, and series of hidden snaps down from waistline. Bodice lined in silk gauze, skirt lined in heavier cream silk. Inner grosgrain ribbon waistband with hook-and-eye closure. Designer's label at inside waistband: "Givenchy"; under designer's label is hidden design/style # tag with handwritten notation: "54783" B) Belt of cream silk gauze-backed silk jersey, 2" wide x 30" long, completely covered in beading matching bodice. Hook-and-eye closure at ends. No marks/labels on belt.
Evening dress of champagne hand appliqued lace over fine net. A) Fitted bodice with jewel neckline. Long, set-in sleeves with 6 self-covered buttons and loops at hem. Center back opening with 13 snaps. Lined in extra layer of net. B) Dress with strapless bodice of net covered in champagne organza. Street length, with skirt of three tiers of matching lace. Center back closure of hook & eyes. Waist band of 3" pink grosgrain ribbon which forms a bow at the center back and closes with hook & eyes and snaps. Bodice is reinforced with net "boning" and skirt is lined in champagne organza.
Evening ensemble of black organza covered in black-striped gold sequins. a) Overblouse in tunic style. Collarless with long, set-in sleeves. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Lined in black silk. Christian Dior for Lou Lattimore, Inc., Paris and N.Y. b) Skirt. Full length and straight with slit in front. Center back zipper. Lined in black silk.
Evening gown of red velvet. Floor length with wide, rounded neckline with deep scoop in back and 3/4 raglan sleeves. 1/2" and 1/4" round pearl beads sewn 2" apart over entire dress. Full-length, natural waist A-line skirt with slight train. Zipper closure at center back. Unlined with bodice and sleeved interfaced in maroon silk chiffon. Designer's label at inside right side seam under arm: "EISA"
Evening gown of black rayon velvet; bustle trimmed with ermine tails; column shaped; built-in undergarment with boning; bustle lined in buckram. In box with dress: box with spare tails from Balenciaga.
Pair of reddish-pink or coral silk satin evening pumps. Square toe shoes which have a large open area on the vamp which is backed by clear plastic and edged by braid. The plastic is overlaid with a metal net or chain mail with rhinestones at the intersections. 2 1/4" square heel covered with same material. Lined in off-white/gray leather. Stamped inside each shoe: "Made in Italy / Espressly / For / Lou Lattimore" (Espressly rather than Expressly); and "Creation Mancini / Paris / Waltea made in Italy" Stamped on sole of each shoe: "8"
Evening sandals of gold metallic leather. Single wide strap across vamp, with another strap across top of foot, joining to strap around heel. Top strap secures with small gold buckle, and has applied gold leather bow with trailing ends. High heel tapers to base. Designer's label: "Roger / Vivier / Paris"
Hat of green and white felted fur. The hat has a domed, circular crown and an asymmetrical up-turning brim. The crown and inner part of the brim are dyed in a green and white "op-art" pattern of geometric shapes which can be viewed as small green shapes on larger white shapes on a green ground. The outer part of the brim is dyed solid green. At one side is an arrow-shaped ornament of green grosgrain ribbon, the tail of which extends out over the brim and curls upwards. Inside the crown is a hatband of green grosgrain ribbon. Sewn to the hatband ribbon is a large designer's tag: "Schiaparelli / Paris". Stamped inside the crown "Body / Made In Italy"
Hat of taupe leather. The soft-sided crown is somewhat domed. The brim is turned up, forming a "cuff" around the crown. At front is a large bow of the same leather. The hat is lined in white, and has an inner hatband of taupe grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label: "Balenciaga / 10, Avenue George V. Paris" Origin label: "Made in France"
Hat of light beige fur felt. Domed crown with wide, folded brim. Two bows of self under the back rim. Headband of light gray grosgrain ribbon. Unlined. Designer's label at inside headband: "Miss Dior / Created by / Christian Dior" Stamp on inside crown: "Helios / Body Made in Italy"
Hat of black and bronze velvet. Based on a pillbox, the low, domed crown is of black velvet, with top finial of a crossed bronze velvet ribbon with trailing ribbons and a black curling feather with two long thin black feathers. The sides of the hat are composed of two horizontal bands of velvet, the upper of bronze color, the lower of black. The whole hat is overlaid by black net veiling with wide mesh. The unlined felt body has an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label: "Originals / by / Michael Terre / Southern California" Stamped inside: "Jacomet / Body made in France"
Cocktail hat of bias cut white draped wool. Front resembles a turban and is formed by four horizontal turned under pleats with 1-1/2" band. Sides and back resemble a beret, with the back folded up and trimmed with a tie bow of self at the center. Partly lined with reinforcing at front to support pleating. Ivory grosgrain ribbon inner headband and comb at front for securing hat to wearer's head.
Hat of fine red baku straw. Hat resembles a bowler or derby style. Shallow 2" crown, with slightly rounded top. Has 1 1/2" wide slightly squared flat brim. 3/8" wide hat band of self ties in a small bow. Unlined with red grosgrain ribbon inner headband.
Hat of black silk organza. Overall effect is turban-like. Hat is formed with bias organza draped over calotte cap. Fabric drapes across back and is turned under at center back. 1-1/4" wide satin bow 2" above lower edge at center front. Lined with netting and has black grosgrain ribbon inner headband with comb at front for securing hat to wearer's head.
Suit hat of white felt. Round crown with 2-3/4" wide brim curved upward on left side and downward on right side. One inch wide black grosgrain ribbon hat band that ties in a bow on right side. Lined in white netting with white grosgrain inner headband. Inside crown stamped: "Feutre / Fléchet"
Black satin toque hat. Cylindrical in form, with sides curving down along ears/temples. Slightly domed at top, and with an ornament at front consisting of a black satin bow and a group of curled black feathers. Label inside at back: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V / Paris"
Hat of black velvet. The hat has a circular, slightly domed, crown completely covered in black velvet. At the front is attached a rhinestone and glass(?) brooch formed as firework spray. The central iridescent faceted stone is surrounded by rays or arms of lines of rhinestones simulating diamonds. Some rays arc over the brooch, some hang down. Most are only partly rigid, so that as the wearer moves the rays shimmer and the stones catch the light. The crown is lined in black fabric, with a black grosgrain ribbon running along the inner lower edge. Attached to the inner ribbon band is a plastic comb to help secure the hat to the wearer's head. No labels. Donor attributed the brooch to Balenciaga. Alternatively attributed to Robert Goossens of Paris, who is known to have supplied Balenciaga.
Hat of leopard fur. Similar to a baseball cap, the hat has a pillbox style crown with a crescent-moon shaped visor / brim at front, both completely covered in leopard fur. Around the base of the crown is a black leather hatband. The interior of the crown is lined in a cream brocade cloth, while the visor is lined in leopard. Along the interior base of the crown is a dark brown grosgrain ribbon band. No labels.
Hat of moss green "plush" velvet. The derby-style hat has domed cylindrical crown with indentations at front and slight crease along crown. Narrow brim, rolled upwards at sides and back. To left of center front is small attached "fan" of various types and colors of feathers. Inside crown is attached small length of black grosgrain ribbon to maintain the front indentations, and a band of black grosgrain ribbon along inside base of crown. Stamped inside crown: Feutre Flechet.
"Lampshade" style hat of black straw or raffia. The basically conical hat is woven of a black straw material, with flattened top. On the front of the hat, off-set to the left, is affixed a wide black velvet ribbon from the top edge of the crown down to almost the brim. Sewn to the ribbon at top is a circular stamped metal brooch set with 17 large circular rhinestones in three concentric circles. The hat is lined in black net, with inner black grosgrain hatband. Sewn to the inner ribbon band is manufacturer's label: "Edette / Exclusive / New York - Paris"
Hat of black silk chiffon. The hat is formed from a cylindrical pillbox style hat surmounted by a conical section that is folded back and flares out to form an extension behind the hat. Where the surmounting piece meets the pillbox is a black bow formed from the same cloth. Inside of crown is lined in stiff black netting, and has a black grosgrain ribbon running along the base of the crown. A small plastic comb is sewn in front of hat to inner ribbon to secure it to wearer's head. No labels. The donor records that "... Balenciaga showed it with dress and sleeveless coat..."
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