Breton hat of light tan woven Baku straw. The high, cylindrical crown is slightly domed at top, and is encircled at the base by an off-white band of folded organza. The crown is surrounded by the wide upturned brim, which extends out and then turns up to vertical, forming a "wall" around the crown. Te side of the brim facing the crown is faced with a band of the same woven straw. The hat is unlined, with an off-white inner grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Breton hat of light turquoise/jade green fur felt. The high crown has a shallow domed top, and is encircled by the wide brim, which curves up vertically around the crown. The brim is lined/faced with the same fur felt. The hat is unlined, with matching green grosgrain ribbon inner hatband, and is accompanied by a hat pin, the head of which is covered in the same fur felt. Designer's label: "Balenciaga / 10, Avenue George V. Paris"
Cloche hat of medium brown coiled and plaited fibers. The high crown is crafted of spiraling band of plaited and coiled brown yarn(?)and incorporates looped sections, with iridescent flat ribbon wrapped around elements of the band. There is a horizontal "tuck" at back of hat, and a slight "visor" effect at front. The hat is unlined. Retailer's label sewn inside crown: "Made in France for / Neiman-Marcus". While in the style of a 1920's/1930's cloche, the materials, label, and construction date this piece to the 1960's.
Coat of deep pink and white plaid wool. Double breasted with six circular plastic deep pink buttons and covered buttonholes. Bracelet length sleeves; street length. Two front vertical single welt pockets. Half belt across back of same material with two circular plastic deep pink buttons and covered buttonholes at ends. Lined in deep pink silk. Designer's label: "Balenciaga / 10, Avenue George V. Paris"
Cocktail hat of draped brown silk. The hat, reminiscent of a turban, is a soft crown construction, gathered into horizontal folds at front with a rhinestone set clip shaped as an "8", one "s" curve set with rectangular stones, the other with three rows of circular stones. Interior lined in brown mesh, with inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. At front of inner hatband is attached small comb to help secure hat to wearer's head. Accompanied by a small hatpin, the head covered with same fabric.
Cocktail suit of black silk satin consisting of: A) Waist-length jacket formed of vertically arranged heat-set pleats with five horizontal bands applied across the pleats. There is a panel of ivory/off-white silk extending from the neck of the jacket, forming the collar of the jacket and simulating the effect of a blouse being worn under the jacket. The long sleeves are also pleated, with single band near the base of the sleeves, from which extend ivory/off-white silk mock cuffs. Center front opening with three applied black bows on the lower three horizontal bands. The opening is secured with three hook-and-loop closures hidden by the bows. Lined in black silk. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Chanel" Style number tag beneath designer's label: "10967" B) Matching mid-length skirt of similarly pleated black silk, with a plain waistband and a single horizontal black silk band 2" below the waistband. Three hook-and-loops in the waistband, and four snaps along closure at left hip. Skirt has a single panel of organza lining in back, the rest of the skirt being unlined to allow more movement of the fabric.
Dinner dress and jacket ensemble of black wool; (a) Jacket: Short princess line black wool jacket; V-neckline with wide notched collar and wide lapels; full-length, set in, two piece sleeves; asymmetrical lapped front opening with one large, round, filligreed button with rhinestones and bound buttonhole; fully lined in black silk. Label stitched inside back neck below collar. (b) Dress: Matching sleeveless knee length dress with V-neckline in front due to surplice styled opening; fronts secure with four snaps and four hook&eyes; seam detail around bust; back neckline is square between straps; waistline seam with skirt gathering all around; lapped center-front opening in skirt with single hook&eye and two snaps; folded hem; fully lined in black silk. Label stitched inside on lining at right side seam. Size 12 BALENCIAGA, Paris
a) Dinner gown with black crepe skier and white faille bodice; bodice is hand embroidered in irridescent rhinestones, sequins, silver thread, and crystal drops. b) 2" sash of bright pink satin at natural waist.
Dress of bright lime green wool. Knee-lenght and sleeveless, with a high neckline ornamented with 6 rows of topstitching. Empire waisted, with the lower portion of dress split into four long panels, scalloped to form petals with quilted, topstitched edges. Center back zipper with two hook & eyes. Upper portion of dress lined in lime colored acetate. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York" Retailer's label beneath designer's label: "Marie Leavell"
Lounge ensemble in pink silks. The pantsuit consists of a blouse and pants. The blouse is of pink silk, constructed as two layers. The inner lining layer is of plain pink gauze. The outer layer is of pink silk heavily decorated with patterns created by shibori technique dying. The blouse has long sleeves and a center-front zipper closure that runs almost the entire length of the garment and has a single hook-and-eye at throat. The collar, cuffs, hem, and flap over the zipper are a small ruffle of the same materials. The shibori patterns use green, yellow, blue, and the original white of the fabric to create bands of tiny "puckers", large circular forms, and abstract shapes. The pants are of pink silk taffeta, about ankle length, with elastic cuffs. Plain waistband, with zipper closure at center front and single hook-and-eye at waistband. Described in early records as harem pants, but lacking the fullness associated with that style. Both garments have the same series of labels. Designer's label: "Martine Grandval / Made in France Paris"; material label "100% Silk"; and retailer's label: "ViV / Neiman-Marcus / Made in France". The shibori fabric may be of Indian, Pakistani, or Asian origin, based on the particular way that the shibori tye-dying technique has been used on the garment.
Ensemble consisting of: a) Coat of silver lame with jeweled buttons lined in same black wool jersey as dress. b) Tunic top of black wool jersey. Sleeveless with two side slit pockets. Closure at back with two snaps and self-covered buttons. Lined in black silk. c) Pants of heavy black wool jersey. Double side zippers. Designer Label: "EISA"
Ensemble of oatmeal colored wool tweed: a) Jacket of beige and black wool tweed with V-neckline with standard notched collar and wide lapels; short, princess seams; 3/4 length, set in, two piece sleeves; double breasted opening with four round, plastic, beige buttons and two bound buttonholes supplemented by single large covered snap inside lap at waist; fully lined in beige silk. Label stitched inside back neck below collar. b) Dress of same; sleeveless; falling just below the knee; deep rounded neckline; empire waist seam; straight skirt has slight gathers in front; left side underarm zipper closure supplemented by single hook&eye closure; folded hem; armhole and neck facings; brassiere strap keepers snap inside shoulders; unlined.
Cream silk jersey evening dress / ballgown with beaded decoration and matching belt. A) Full-length gown, bodice embellished with hand-embroidered stylized leaves/buds in cream on a ground of silver, green, and mauve beads. Shoulders and thin collar with solid fields of beading. Short, wide sleeves edged with silver and clear beads. Center back opening with hook-and-eyes at top and bottom, no closure along mid-back. Plain cream silk jersey skirt, gathered into waist. Closure at right hip, with band of hook-and-eyes along back waistline, and series of hidden snaps down from waistline. Bodice lined in silk gauze, skirt lined in heavier cream silk. Inner grosgrain ribbon waistband with hook-and-eye closure. Designer's label at inside waistband: "Givenchy"; under designer's label is hidden design/style # tag with handwritten notation: "54783" B) Belt of cream silk gauze-backed silk jersey, 2" wide x 30" long, completely covered in beading matching bodice. Hook-and-eye closure at ends. No marks/labels on belt.
Evening ensemble of black organza covered in black-striped gold sequins. a) Overblouse in tunic style. Collarless with long, set-in sleeves. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Lined in black silk. Christian Dior for Lou Lattimore, Inc., Paris and N.Y. b) Skirt. Full length and straight with slit in front. Center back zipper. Lined in black silk.
Evening gown of red velvet. Floor length with wide, rounded neckline with deep scoop in back and 3/4 raglan sleeves. 1/2" and 1/4" round pearl beads sewn 2" apart over entire dress. Full-length, natural waist A-line skirt with slight train. Zipper closure at center back. Unlined with bodice and sleeved interfaced in maroon silk chiffon. Designer's label at inside right side seam under arm: "EISA"
Pair of reddish-pink or coral silk satin evening pumps. Square toe shoes which have a large open area on the vamp which is backed by clear plastic and edged by braid. The plastic is overlaid with a metal net or chain mail with rhinestones at the intersections. 2 1/4" square heel covered with same material. Lined in off-white/gray leather. Stamped inside each shoe: "Made in Italy / Espressly / For / Lou Lattimore" (Espressly rather than Expressly); and "Creation Mancini / Paris / Waltea made in Italy" Stamped on sole of each shoe: "8"
Evening sandals of gold metallic leather. Single wide strap across vamp, with another strap across top of foot, joining to strap around heel. Top strap secures with small gold buckle, and has applied gold leather bow with trailing ends. High heel tapers to base. Designer's label: "Roger / Vivier / Paris"
Hat of taupe leather. The soft-sided crown is somewhat domed. The brim is turned up, forming a "cuff" around the crown. At front is a large bow of the same leather. The hat is lined in white, and has an inner hatband of taupe grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label: "Balenciaga / 10, Avenue George V. Paris" Origin label: "Made in France"
Cocktail hat of bias cut white draped wool. Front resembles a turban and is formed by four horizontal turned under pleats with 1-1/2" band. Sides and back resemble a beret, with the back folded up and trimmed with a tie bow of self at the center. Partly lined with reinforcing at front to support pleating. Ivory grosgrain ribbon inner headband and comb at front for securing hat to wearer's head.
Hat of black silk organza. Overall effect is turban-like. Hat is formed with bias organza draped over calotte cap. Fabric drapes across back and is turned under at center back. 1-1/4" wide satin bow 2" above lower edge at center front. Lined with netting and has black grosgrain ribbon inner headband with comb at front for securing hat to wearer's head.
Suit hat of white felt. Round crown with 2-3/4" wide brim curved upward on left side and downward on right side. One inch wide black grosgrain ribbon hat band that ties in a bow on right side. Lined in white netting with white grosgrain inner headband. Inside crown stamped: "Feutre / Fléchet"
Hat of black and bronze velvet. Based on a pillbox, the low, domed crown is of black velvet, with top finial of a crossed bronze velvet ribbon with trailing ribbons and a black curling feather with two long thin black feathers. The sides of the hat are composed of two horizontal bands of velvet, the upper of bronze color, the lower of black. The whole hat is overlaid by black net veiling with wide mesh. The unlined felt body has an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label: "Originals / by / Michael Terre / Southern California" Stamped inside: "Jacomet / Body made in France"
Black satin toque hat. Cylindrical in form, with sides curving down along ears/temples. Slightly domed at top, and with an ornament at front consisting of a black satin bow and a group of curled black feathers. Label inside at back: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V / Paris"
Hat of moss green "plush" velvet. The derby-style hat has domed cylindrical crown with indentations at front and slight crease along crown. Narrow brim, rolled upwards at sides and back. To left of center front is small attached "fan" of various types and colors of feathers. Inside crown is attached small length of black grosgrain ribbon to maintain the front indentations, and a band of black grosgrain ribbon along inside base of crown. Stamped inside crown: Feutre Flechet.
Hat of black velvet. The hat has a circular, slightly domed, crown completely covered in black velvet. At the front is attached a rhinestone and glass(?) brooch formed as firework spray. The central iridescent faceted stone is surrounded by rays or arms of lines of rhinestones simulating diamonds. Some rays arc over the brooch, some hang down. Most are only partly rigid, so that as the wearer moves the rays shimmer and the stones catch the light. The crown is lined in black fabric, with a black grosgrain ribbon running along the inner lower edge. Attached to the inner ribbon band is a plastic comb to help secure the hat to the wearer's head. No labels. Donor attributed the brooch to Balenciaga. Alternatively attributed to Robert Goossens of Paris, who is known to have supplied Balenciaga.
Hat of leopard fur. Similar to a baseball cap, the hat has a pillbox style crown with a crescent-moon shaped visor / brim at front, both completely covered in leopard fur. Around the base of the crown is a black leather hatband. The interior of the crown is lined in a cream brocade cloth, while the visor is lined in leopard. Along the interior base of the crown is a dark brown grosgrain ribbon band. No labels.
Hat of medium blue wool. Crown formed as a pillbox, cylindrical, with flattened top. At front, extending slightly to sides, is a crescent-shaped bill form brim, also covered with blue wool. Underside of bill/brim lined/faced with same wool. Crown is lined in stiffed off-white fine mesh, and has a dark slate blue grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. No labels.
Hat of finely woven lime green straw. Designed as a modified sailor's hat, the cylindrical crown is slightly domed at top, and encircled at the base by a narrow band of the same finely woven straw, with a bow at back. The thick brim is slightly curled up at sides, and is faced with wide band of self, and then has another band of same straw, forming concentric circles. The crown is unlined, with inner off-white grosgrain ribbon hatband and partial band along front of off-white cotton(?) padding. No labels.
Hat of bright yellow angora wool. The large hat has a high, cylindrical, slightly domed crown, and is covered with angora wool. The hat is unlined, and the stiffened woven straw(?) mesh under-structure can be seen inside. The hat has an inner yellow grosgrain ribbon hatband. No labels.
Hat of draped blue silk. Hat is constructed with an under-structure of a short black jersey covered cylindrical ring over which fits a tailored blue silk scarf, fitting around ring, and draping freely off the back. Inner ring with small comb attached to front inside, to help secure to wearer's head.
Hat of light beige wool felt. For daytime wear, the hat has a high, domed crown, encircled at the base by a band of the same felt, with a bow at front right. The wide, somewhat floppy brim, slopes downwards, with a "dent" at back left edge. Unlined, the hat has an inner light beige grosgrain ribbon hatband, and is accompanied by two hatpins, the heads covered with matching fabric. No labels.
Hatlet/hair ornament of black silk. Designed as a stylized bow shape created from a tube of black silk, the open ends are stuffed to be open, and the whole is folded and sewn down, and mounted on a small plastic comb to secure it to the wearer's head. No labels.
Jacket of white re-embroidered St. Gallen lace. Knee-length, center front opening with three snaps. Bracelet length sleeves. Collarless, with rounded neckline with scallops following the lace. Unlined. Designer's label at inside right under-arm: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris". With accompanying belt/sash of white satin. Reinforced at center, but single thickness at ends, which tie.
Pantsuit of orange and ivory polyester double knit. a) Blouse has Peter Pan collar and full yoke of ivory polyester. Orange knit fitted bodice has cap sleeves. Flares slightly below waist. Self fabric belt buckles around hips. Zipper CB. Designer label removed. b) Orange hip-hugger pants are straight legged, stopping above ankles. Overlapping hook and eye closure. Zipper CF. Entire suit is lined in white polysatin. Designer's label at inside center back: "Courreges / Paris" Label below designer's label: "Made in France 0" Retailer's label: "Made in France / Exclusively for / Bonwit Teller"
Brown velvet pillbox cocktail hat. The low, circular crown of the hat is slightly domed. At front of hat is pinned a large 3-dimensional pear-shaped openwork jeweled ornament of gold wire set with various colors and shapes of stones. Inside of hat lined in black cloth. Around inside lower edge of crown is brown grosgrain ribbon band. Sewn to inner band is a plastic comb to help secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner ribbon band: "Eisa". The jeweled ornament is attributed to Robert Goossens of Paris, who is known to have supplied Balenciaga. Donor notes of this hat: "...to wear with short black cocktail dresses."
Two piece day suit. a) Jacket of burnt orange, moss green, and burgundy wool bouclé. Round neckline. Burnt orange braid at collar, center front and hem. Cuffs trimmed in rope braid and reversed side bouclé inserts. Faux french-cuffs of silk ikat taffeta at end of sleeves. 4 buttons covered with red silk and boarded with reverse of bouclé wool. Center front extension of reversed bouclé and buttons holes in seam, not welt. Patch pockets with V-shaped detail using matching trim, lined in ikat silk. Back hem weighed down by gilt, heavy chain. Designers Label inside back neckline: "Chanel" Style Number tag on back of Designer's Label: "09603" Attached hanging tag: "Made in France" Retailer's Label in Front Right Hem: "Neiman-Marcus" b) Skirt of wool bouclé in 3/4 length. Back zipper with hook & eyes. Narrow waistband of red silk. Front panel lined in red silk. Hemmed with 2" wide orange hem lace. No labels.
Toque of black satin. Pillbox-like hat has cylindrical crown, slightly domed, and is completely covered in black satin. At front, near base of crown, is a black satin bow from which rises a spray of black feathers. Interior of crown fully lined in black satin, with a black grosgrain ribbon band at base of crown. Sewn to the inner ribbon band is a plastic comb to secure the hat to the head of the wearer. No labels.
Trilby hat of black velvet. Designed with a sculpted crown, more vertical at back and sloping at front and sides, with slight dome at top, the hat has a narrow brim at front angled somewhat downwards, while at sides and back the brim curves upwards sharply. Top-stitching accents running up center front of hat, along top, along back facing of brim, and along edge of brim. Underside of brim is faced in same velvet, while the crown is unlined. Inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. No labels.