Hat of black velvet with cording detail. The domed crown is encircled at base with a band of black cord-work, with a bow at back with trailing ribbon. The circular brim turns up at edge, which is embellished with same cording as base of crown. Lined in ribbed orange red fabric, with a black grosgrain inner ribbon hatband, and with an elastic cord to help secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's hand-sewn label inside crown: "Jo Bailey / Hats"
Daytime dress of navy blue silk crepe in modified shirtwaist style. Yoked shoulders with collar. Inner neckline has 7 small mother-of-pearl buttons for additional detachable collar to drape over existing collar. Center front opening with 6 large 1-1/4" mother of pearl buttons with vertical buttonholes. Long set-in sleeves with matching button at cuff. Evidence of smocking below waist seam, but threading is missing. Street length. Unlined. Designer's label at right seam near hem: "Traina-Norell / New York" b) Contour belt of navy leather. Wider at ends with rectangular buckle covered in same. Back stamped "14".
Hat of dark pink/mauve velvet. The low, domed crown is covered with large overlapping "petal" shapes of velvet arranged like scales, and has a large velvet rose/flower form at front of the same velvet petals. Lined in black fabric, and with black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Sanger Bros / Dallas Texas"; and origin/size label: "New York / Creation / 22"
Dark orange velvet hat. The shaped crown is roughly square with low peak at top center, constructed of four triangular panels, creating slight "corners" at sides. No brim. Lined in black satin. Accompanied by two hatpins, the heads covered with matching velvet. Designer's label inside: "Original / Roberta Bernays"
Hat of green felt. Wide, flat crown with upturned brim which is flattened at side. Around crown is wiide, dark green grosgrain ribbon bow which fills flattened area of brim. Around sides and front hang a black net veil; a second large, dark green grosgrain ribbon bow hangs off bottom of the brim at back. The hat is unlined, with a dark green grosgrain ribbon inner hatband, and an elastic cord for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Ruby Ross / 6 East 53rd St. / New York"
Evening gown of bright brown satin and black velvet. Form fitted bodice of brown satin narrows at waist and dips to a center front seam, where fabric is gathered and drapes down to full-length skirt; black velvet skirt surrounds CF fabric and creates a fullness at hips. Handwritten cloth tape label in skirt: "Charles James 47" Accompanied by a brassier, not shown in photo. Designer's Label: "This is an original / Madame Adrienne / 35 other pat. pend. / pat. 3072879"
Three-piece suit consisting of green wool jacket, skirt and red striped jersey blouse. A) Jacket of green twill wool. Single breasted with notched collar in red twill wool on exterior of collar extending down interior of front opening. Three self covered buttons and bound buttonholes. Mock flap pockets at sides trimmed with matching self covered buttons and red undersides. Long, set in sleeves with split opening at cuff closed with single, self covered button and bound buttonhole and lined on underside in red. Lined in red silk crepe. Designer's label on inside right: "Traina-Norell / New York" B) Skirt in green twill wool. A line; below knee length. White grosgrain ribbon waistband. Left side zipper. Unlined. C) Blouse in green and red striped jersey. Long sleeves. Narrow, rounded collar banded in matching fabric. Left side opening at neckline with 5 self covered buttons and bound buttonholes on 1-inch band of self. Fitted. Partially lined at back neckline in off-yellow organdy.
Skirt-suit of navy blue wool. A) Jcket. Cropped, fitted jacket with v-neckline and center-front opening with 5 self-covered circular buttons with bound buttonholes and two hidden snaps. Long sleeves, each with two self-covered buttons and bound buttonholes, and two hidden snaps. Lined in navy blue silk, and with internal shoulder pads. Combined Designer's/Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" B) Skirt. Street-length flared skirt of 10 gores, with narrow waistband, left side zipper with two hook-and-eyes in waistband. Lined in navy blue silk.
Pamela or halo style hat of tan ballibuntt straw with brim folded back. Narrow cream colored hatband and netting/veil with small daisies decorate brim. Lined. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Made to Order Hat / Bergdorf / Goodman / Fifth Ave. at 58th St."
Hat of dark beige and cream felt. Designed as a modified Breton hat, the low, domed crown of dark beige felt is encircled by a cream velvet tube through which are strung four large dark beige braided flower-head forms. The circular brim is turned up, forming a "wall" around the crown. The brim is overlaid with a narrow band of black lace net veiling, with scattered "fuzzies" on some of the intersections. The underside of the brim is lined in cream velvet. The crown is unlined, and there is a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Retailer's label inside: "Made to Order Hat / Bergdorf / Goodman / Fifth Ave at 58th St."
Hat of blue felt with upturned brim covered in white straw. Large domed crown covered in blue net. Unlined. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Made to Order Hat / Bergdorf / Goodman / Fifth Ave. at 58th St."
Hat of navy felt. The low, domed crown is encircled at the base by a "rope" of cream velvet which forms a twisting form at front left. The rope has scattered white bugle beads throughout. The small brim is curved downwards, and is wider at front and sides than at back. The underside of the brim is lined in cream velvet, and the crown is unlined. The hat has an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Label: "Made to order hat / Bergdorf / Goodman / Fifth Ave. at 58th St."
Hat of navy felt with eight-pointed brim. Brim lined in white silk. Crown trimmed with navy felt band and grosgrain ribbon with bow in back. Veiled in front. Hatpin in back with head of same felt. Retailer's label inside hatband: "Made to Order Hat / Bergdorf / Goodman / Fifth Ave. at 58th St."
Late day three-piece suit of black velvet. a) Jacket in modified bolero style with squared bottom corners. Long sleeves with 5" wide cuffs of heavy, white, open cut lace. Lined in cream satin. Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" b) Blouse of white linen. Sleeveless. Collar of 6-1/2" wide lace matching cuffs of jacket. Tie of black ribbed silk attaches to collar with hook & loops. Center front opening with 5 small, circular white pearl buttons and tailored buttonholes reinforced with a snap at the neckline and a hook & eye at the waistline. Half-inch pin tucked front. c) Skirt of black velvet. Slight A-line with a 4" purple silk satin cummerbund waistband. Waistband is reinforced with boning and black grosgrain petersham. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Lined in black silk crepe.
Toque style hat of raspberry wool felt knotted with light blue and raspberry terry cloth and folded under brim. Stamped inside crown: "Imperial / 100% Wool / Made in USA / Milford Wool / Hat Body Corp"
Daytime dress in modified shirtwaist/sheath style of black jersey wool. Sleeveless with padded shoulders and wide, notched collar. Street length. Center front opening with 6 large, clear, modified emerald cut rhinestone buttons and bound buttonholes. One-inch wide self fabric tie belt attached at sides. Small patch pockets at sides, below waist. Unlined. Combined retailer/designer's label at inside left seam near hem: "Neiman-Marcus dallas / Traina-Norell"
Formal dinner dress of black wool crepe and lavender satin. Bodice of lavender satin with short, puffed sleeves and low rounded neckline in front, higher in back. Sleeves with elastic gathering at openings. Front of bodice with vertical gathers. Back with open slit and lavender satin drawstring closure at neckline. Empire waist. Skirt of black wool crepe, full-length. Center back zipper in skirt begins at join to bodice where bodice is slit. Unlined. Combined designer's/retailer's label sewn in skirt, behind Neiman-Marcus id label: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell".
Cocktail ensemble of heavy black silk faille, consisting of: A) Dress. Long dress, sleeveless, narrow straps, rounded neckline, higher in front. Slightly raised waist. Left side zipper. Very full skirt gathered into waist. Designer's label at inside skirt side seam: "Traina-Norell / New York" B) Jacket. Waist length jacket with rounded collar, short, highly puffed "pumpkin" sleeves which gather into shoulders. Center front opening with four black covered buttons. Flares from waist. Designer's label at inside back collar: "Traina-Norell / New York"
Evening dress of silk crepe for summer. The full-length dress has an A-line skirt of cocoa brown silk crepe and attached belt with pendant strap at front left. The bodice is of cream silk crepe printed with a "trompe l'oeil" ribbon motif below the rounded neckline. Darts at sides. Long, bat-wing style tapered sleeves. Center-back snap closure. Unlined. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original"
Black cartwheel hat. The low, domed crown and wide circular brim are made of black woven horsehair and stiff veiling, with wire to stiffen the edges. The brim is overlaid with a wider second brim of net and wire. Brim is off-center, wider at front of hat than back. Around base of crown is a band of black cording, tied into a bow at back and with trailing ends. The inside base of the crown is lined with black grosgrain ribbon. One pin with black head is with hat to secure it. Label sewn into inner band: "Sally Victor / 18 East 53rd St." A second label with handwritten number "1655" is sewn in near designer's label.
A) Cocktail dress of blue silk satin. Sleeveless with spaghetti straps of same. Set-in waist which scallops at bottom hem and attaches to panels of full skirt. Tea length. Left side zipper with hook & eye. Skirt lined in black tulle. Combined retailer/designer label at inside left seam near hem: "Neiman-Marcus dallas / Traina-Norell" B) Belt of same with rectangular, self covered buckle. 1/2 inch wide.
Cocktail ensemble consisting of: A) Blouse of fuchsia wool jersey with long sleeves, banded neckline with placket down the center back, and 5 self-covered circular buttons. B) Skirt of black silk brocade, Dirndl style, below knee length, with center back opening having a zipper and 2 hook&eyes on waistband. Unlined. C) Belt of matching black silk brocade with matching fuchsia wool jersey on reverse. Square self-covered buckle. 2" wide. The blouse and belt with no labels or stamps. The skirt with combined Designer/Retailer label at side seam near hem: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"
Daytime coat of camel brown/tan wool. Street-length or longer, with rounded shawl collar. Double breasted with 6 large circular black silk faille-covered buttons in two vertical rows of 3 each; bound buttonholes. Closure reinforced with two small circular black plastic buttons inside. Two slit. Double welt pockets at sides. Long sleeves with turned-back cuffs showing black silk faille lining. The coat is lined in black silk, with wide bands of black silk faille at cuffs, collar, and sides of opening. Combined retailer's and designer's label at inside back neck: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"
Ensemble of blue heathered wool herringbone knit. A) Dress of blue heathered wool herringbone knit with bodice of black jersey knit. Short sleeves. 1 1/2" wide mandarin collar. Center back zipper closure with self-covered button and buttonhole on collar at back. Skirt is street length with slight A-line. Unlined skirt. No labels in dress. B) Fitted jacket of of blue heathered wool herringbone knit. Long sleeves with cuffs of black Persian lamb. V-neckline trimmed in black Persian lamb. Left side closure with two circular black metal buttons at shoulder and four matching button on left side seam. Lined in black silk crepe. Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline of jacket: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"
Brown print silk dress with belt and umbrella. A) Full-length silk dress printed with brown/white/black over-all pattern of large leaves or pinecones on stems. Wide, shallow neckline. Side zipper. Sleeveless, with sleeves edged with cut-out leaf shapes from the print. Hem with same treatment. A-line skirt. Unlined. Combined Designer/Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" B) Belt of same fabric, backed in cream leather, with rectangular, fabric-covered buckle. C) Umbrella. Not pictured.
Ensemble of black wool. The outfit consists of: A) Dress of black wool. Street-length skirt has attached low front leather belt which passes through pleats on left and right. Bodice has narrow collar and deep V-neck with piping that twists at base of V. Bracelet length sleeves with cuffs. Back zipper. No labels. B) Jacket of black wool. Jacket has long sleeves with rolled, notched cuffs, and a notched collar. Center front opening has 5 circular, plastic buttons and covered buttonholes. The padded hips have double welt pockets at left and right. The jacket is lined in black silk. Combined Designer/Retailer label: "Neiman-Marcus dallas / Hattie Carnegie" National Recovery Board / Coat and Suit Industry label "000006"
Skirt suit of navy wool with white pinstripes consisting of: A) Jacket of navy and white pinstripe wool. Double breasted with 4 circular navy blue buttons and covered buttonholes. Notched collar. Long sleeves. Padded shoulders. Horizontal, double welt pockets covered with flap at front left and right. Lined in navy silk. Designer's label at back neckline: "Hattie Carnegie" Retailer's label at right inside seam: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" Union label at right inside seam. b) White crepe blouse - not shown in photographs. c) Skirt of navy wool. Slight A-line. Street length. Unlined. Label at hem: "Spring 1946 / Hattie Carnegie / Size 10"
Hat of black felt with pillbox crown. Wide brim ends at back of crown and folds up into pointed ends. Veil of net on top of brim. Black grosgrain ribbon bow on back of crown. Designer's label on inner hatband: "Valerie / Modes / New York" Union label partly behind designer's label: "782234"
Skirt suit of blue/grey wool consisting of: A) Jacket of navy wool. Jacket has 3/4 sleeves, slash pockets with button trim and welt buttonhole; wide shoulders; nipped-in waist; intricate inset back detail; half belt crisscross in back with button and welt buttonhole. Lined in navy silk. Designer's label at inside back collar: "Adrian / in / British Samek Material" (B) Skirt of same fabric. Mid-calf length; small back kick pleat at hem. Zipper closure. Unlined.
Open crown hat with olive green straw encircling front visor and headband. Ochre velvet draped over visor decorated with small white, bell-shaped flowers. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Kenneth Hopkins Original"
Hat of black straw with small crown worn forward on head with under-chin strap. Brim is visor shaped in front and long on back; very narrow sides. Trimmed with triple bow trim on one side and pink feathers on the other. Designer's label: "Bernice / Charles / 711 Fifth Ave. / New York"
Hat in modified sailor style of navy blue straw. Medium height crown is domed at top and has straight front edge and rounded back edge. Around the crown is a wide band of black grosgrain ribbon with flat bow at back. Brim is circular, set off-center so more brim is at front of hat than back. Hat is unlined, with black grosgrain band around inside of crown. Affixed at inside back of hat is small puff of black netting. Affixed to inner band is elastic loop to secure to wearer's head. Designer's label at inside lower edge of crown: "Germaine Montabert"
Hat of natural straw in boater style, with tiny brim and very shallow crown. Ochre velvet ribbon as trim around crown; wine colored small flowers on back where ribbon ends in bow; tan netting covers crown. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Irene / New York" Retailer's label on inside hatband next to designer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas"
Cocktail hat of pink horsehair. The hat is formed of a flat circular tan straw crown completely covered with woven pink horsehair faille formed as layers of ruffles. The whole is mounted at an angle to a circular ring covered in pink satin. No labels on hat.
Hat of navy blue silk faille. Small brimless hat, formed with a very low domed crown. Lined in off-white organza(?), with deep edge of the faille extending up into the underside of the crown. With two small plastic combs to help secure it to wearer's head. No labels.
Street suit of gray wool. A daytime or street suit consisting of two pieces. A) Jacket, with squared padded shoulders, no collar, and long sleeves. Opening along the central front, the jacket has a series of 5 hook-and-eye closures, and has a band that extends from upper left, across opening, and secures through a wide loop just below the right shoulder. The jacket is lined in a peach/mauve silk. B) Skirt. The straight skirt was originally just below knee length, but has been lengthened by the addition of material almost matching the lining of the jacket. The skirt has a center back zipper closure. It is currently unlined, but has evidence of the alterations. Jacket: At center back of inside neckline is designer's label: "Gilbert / Original"; at right inside seam: "Frost Bros / San Antonio". Skirt: No labels, possibly removed.
Street suit of gray wool. A daytime or street suit consisting of two pieces. Excellent example of chiaroscuro work. A) Jacket with squared padded shoulders, no collar, and long sleeves. Opening along the central front, the jacket has a series of 5 hook-and-eye closures. A band that extends from upper left, across opening, and secures through a wide loop just below the right shoulder. The jacket is lined in a peach/mauve silk. At center back of inside neckline is designer's label: "Adrian / Original" Retailer's label at right inside seam: "Frost Bros. / San Antonio". B) Straight skirt was originally just below knee length, but has been lengthened by the addition of material almost matching the lining of the jacket. The skirt has a center back zipper closure. It is currently unlined, but has evidence of the alterations. No labels, possibly removed.
Navy daytime tailored two-piece suit in British Samek wool. a) Suit jacket of navy British Samek wool. Center front opening with three circular, blue plastic buttons; welted buttonholes button suit jacket. Padded shoulders. Two patch pockets. Notched collar with squared shoulder yoke with matching button attached to square insert. Lined in eggplant crepe. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Adrian / in / British Samek Material" Tag above designer's label: "A. Herod, Sr." b) Slim straight skirt of navy British Samek wool. Folded waistband of same. Center back zipper with snap and 4 hook and eyes on waistband. Lined in navy blue silk. Tag on inside waistband: "A. Herod, Sr."
Picture hat of black felt. The crown is formed as a bun, with puffed top, resembling a muffin, cinched in at the base by a visible satin string/stitch with trailing edge/tassel at back. The wide brim of matching felt curves downwards and undulates slightly, and has a decorative stitch near outer edge very slightly gathering the edge. Label sewn inside crown: "Made in America"; "John Frederics Inc. / New York"
Pair of brown suede D'Orsay Pumps. The shoes have brown suede rounded toe box and heel area, but are open at sides to the sole. Small inverted V cut at front creating "peep-toe" effect. On top of vamp is sewn on brown suede "tie" forming the effect of a bow. Brown suede ankle strap. Thick 3 1/2" high spike heel covered in brown suede. Marked inside heel of both shoes: "17061-1 / 6 S / 11310X"; Stamped on sole of both shoes: "Pandora / Footwear" The D'Orsay Pumps style of shoes is named after Count d'Orsay, a 19th century leader of French Society.
Jacket of black wool and monkey fur. Suit jacket of black wool, long torso, slightly fitted, single-breasted with center front opening of 4 circular self-covered buttons and single hook-and-eye. Long sleeves. Small shoulder pads. From waist to hem coat is trimmed with wide band of long black monkey fur. Retailer's label at inside back collar: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" National Recovery Board, Coat and Suit Industry label at inside waist, "001706"
Suit of light brown vicuña consisting of: a) Tent coat. Thigh-length; notched collar. Center front opening with no closure. Side front vertical, double welt pockets. Back tucks from shoulder; half sleeves. Fully lined in copper brown silk. Retailer's label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus / Vicuna" Tag at inside left lining: "Consumer / Protection Label / VKG / Manufactured Under / Fair Labor Standards" and "National Recovery Board / Coat and Suit Industry / 181527" b) Skirt. Lower part of light brown vicuña matching coat and upper part of light brown cotton with elastic gathered waist. Knee length. Unlined.
Little girl's Confirmation dress of off-white rayon faille. Mid-length; short puffed sleeves with ruched cuffs bordered in lace. Vertical flat pleats at waist of skirt. Collar has lace trim and double bands of ruching in front with two flowers and green ribbon leaves sewn on lower corners of collar; a silk ribbon bow is sewn on center-front. Ruched insert down center front of bodice. Center back closure of three self-covered buttons with loops. Unlined. With tie belt of matching fabric. Center back is stitched closed and front ends are cut on the bias and open to pointed ends.
Dress of brown puckered nylon. Street length with A-lined skirt. Fitted bodice. Spread collar and 3/4 length sleeves with turned-back cuffs. Two patch pockets at upper bust, with false flaps. Center front opening with 5 circular cast brass buttons and hidden hook & eye at natural waist. Slit pockets at hips. Unlined. Retailer's label at inside back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus / Sports Shop" With matching narrow belt faced in same fabric, backed in brown leather. Rectangular self-covered buckle. Stamped on reverse: "10 1820"
Evening dress of wine-colored hammered rayon satin. Wide, bateau neckline trimmed with wine colored ostrich feathers, sequins and bows of matching fabric. Short sleeves. Street length. Ruching at center front of bodice and at center back seam below waist. Left side zipper. Unlined; shoulder pads. Retailer's label at left side seam: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" With matching tie belt, 1 1/4" wide.
Evening dress of rose/pale pink/pale mauve crepe-back satin charmeuse. Inspired by Chinese Cheongsam-style garments, the dress is full-length, slim fitted, with slight standing collar fastened with hidden hook & loop. Sleeveless, the dress has front opening from throat to slightly below right shoulder, secured with three large rhinestone set circular brass(?) buttons. Very slightly raised waist with triangular "flap", open and hanging down from center front to right hip. From just below hip to center front at hem is secondary opening, with 7 buttons matching bodice. Hem slightly scalloped at front overlap corners, and at right side. Left side underarm zipper. Combined designer's/retailer's label inside bodice: "Neiman-Marcus dallas / Maurice Rentner" With tie belt of same fabric, 3/4" wide.
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