Pillbox hat of off-white linen(?) formed as a short cylinder with flattened top, somewhat sunken around edges and slightly domed at center. The whole is overlaid with an off-white net veil to which are affixed scattered small "puffs", and four large satin cording devices shaped as looped bows or modified trefoils. Hat is unlined, allowing woven straw base to show, and has inner off-white grosgrain ribbon hat band.
Hatlet of black velvet. Black velvet hatlet has a shallow domed crown edged with large upstanding "M" shapes and descending "V" shapes of black velvet edged with black beads. The overall effect is of a child's image of a coronet. The whole is overlaid with black net veil, with triplets of black beads worked into some intersections of the net. Crown is lined in black mesh netting and edged with black grosgrain ribbon. Two plastic combs inside crown help secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's Label: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". Gift of Mr. John C. Murphy, through the Chicago Historical Society.
Hatlet of straw and velvet. Formed as a modified X-shaped skullcap, the hatlet is made of woven straw with white straw warp and gold ribbon weft, edged in a narrow ribbon of light tan velvet. At the center of the crown is applied pair of bows of the same velvet ribbon. Evidence of fine brown veiling, now gone. Interior of crown lined in taupe mesh and edged with taupe gros-grain ribbon. Attached at either side is a small plastic comb to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label inside crown: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". Gift of Mr. John C. Murphy, through the Chicago Historical Society.
Hatlet of black plastic tubing. Formed as an open circular crown, the hatlet is composed of three sections of black tubing shaped as crescents, attached at points. Overlaid with black net veiling with sections of black tubing affixed at some intersections. Crown is lined with black mesh, and edged in black velvet. Designer's label inside crown: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". Gift of William T. Doyle, from the estate of Dorothy Wrigley Offield, through the Chicago Historical Society.
Toque hat of black felt. The brimless hat has a high, cylindrical crown which is higher in front than back; and with a sunken top which is domed at center. Around the front and sides are applied wide curving bands of black satin ribbon. The front and sides are overlaid by black net veiling, which extends slightly down over wearer's face. The hat is unlined. Stamped inside: "Body Made In / Italy / Union Made".
Hat of pale purple or violet felt/velor. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the hat has a domed pale purple felt crown "stacked" on another domed form of the same felt. The lower form has a horizontal "tuck" near the base, enhancing the impression of the hat being stacked felt domes. On right side of the crown near base is an applied bow of the same felt. The hat is unlined, with an inner dark blue grosgrain ribbon hatband. Stamped inside the crown: "Premier / Finest Quality / Imported / Velour" Joint Designer's and Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Original / Expressly for / Neiman-Marcus". Retains original Neiman-Marcus paper tag. Obverse: "Neiman-Marcus / B830 / x8SINZ / 7529x / 2995"; Reverse: "15 00" With matching hatpin, the head covered with a small pad of the same felt as the hat.
Hatlet of navy blue appliques. The hatlet is composed of a small square or diamond shaped skullcap of dark blue mesh overlaid with dark blue braid appliques in scrolling forms decorated with french knots. Around the four sides are further triangular shaped appliques, wired along the edges, to stand up around the crown. Affixed near the lower edges of the hatlet is dark blue net veil. Hatlet is lined with blue mesh and edged with a thin band of dark navy blue velvet. At either side are small plastic combs to secure hatlet to wearer's head. Designer's Label: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". Gift of Mr. William T. Doyle, through the Chicago Historical Society. From the estate of Dorothy Wrigley Offield.
Hatlet of brown velvet and plastic. Hatlet in calot (also spelled "calotte") style. Low circular domed crown of deep copper brown velvet is edged with band consisting of seven diamond-shaped plastic tortoiseshell plaques threaded and tied on two strands of brown plastic tubing. Surmounting hat is fine veil of brown netting. Crown is lined with brown mesh and edged with inner hatband of brown grosgrain ribbon. Three plastic combs are attached to inner hatband to secure hatlet to wearer's head. Designer's Label: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago" Gift of William T. Doyle, from the estate of Dorothy Wrigley Offield, through the Chicago Historical Society.
Hatlet of modified calot type with brown, beige, white, blue and green feathers, the whole covered with a very fine veil sprinkled with tiny rhinestones. Inside of crown lined at center with a green silk(?), edged with green grosgrain ribbon. Outer part of crown lined in a green knit material. Attached to grosgrain ribbon are Hatpin of matching material. Lined in green fabric. Two combs attached to both sides of green grosgrain headband. No labels. Attributed to Bes-Ben at time of donation. Gift of Mr. William T. Doyle, through the Chicago Historical Society. From the estate of Dorothy Wrigley Offield.
Pair of pumps of purple satin. The shoes are designed with sharply pointed toes, and a gently squared vamp, across which is a large bow of the same satin. The sides are cut slightly lower, and the stiletto heels are covered in same fabric, flaring slightly to base. Maker's label stamped inside: "Herbert Levine" Retailer's label stamped inside: "Neiman Marcus" Handwritten inside: "6 AAA 18828 9913-8LZ"
Hat of light-colored straw. Domed crown is surmounted by small sphere of woven straw, and is canted back slightly. Around the base of the crown is a wide band of two layers of white grosgrain ribbon which have extending ends at side. The "snap brim" is slanted downwards at front, but turned up at sides and back. The hat is lined in a fine golden/yellow mesh, and has an inner white grosgrain ribbon hatband at base of crown. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Emme Inc / New York" Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Amen Wardy / El Paso - Texas"
Pair of pumps. The open-toed shoes have vamps formed of black leather covered in a rhinestone-covered black fabric "bunched" at center with a circular rhinestone-set black metal button. Silver leather and elastic "spring-o-lators" linings. 3 1/4" black plastic spike heels set with rhinestones. Written inside vamp of each shoe: "6 1/2 [illeg.] / 1616ind / 6486" Stamped on each lining: "Neiman-Marcus" and "Spring-o-lators / Pat Pend"
Coat dress of black silk taffeta jacquard-woven with supplemental pile design in the weft. Black buttons down front. Flaring skirt. A) Coat dress of black silk taffeta with off-white fuzzy woven-in polka dots. Calf-length(? - depends on petticoats), with a small modified "Peter Pan" turn-down collar, which has attached front bias bands to tie into bow at front of collar. 3/4-length set-in sleeves. Center front opening with 16 black circular plastic buttons, hidden snaps at waist and throat, and hook-and-eye at waist. Full, flaring skirt with 13 gores. Unlined. Combined Designer's/Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" B) Belt of matching fabric, backed with black leather. Narrow, with rectangular buckle covered in same fabric. Stamped on reverse: "30+"
Hat of pink chiffon and artificial flowers. The crown is made of horizontally tucked pink chiffon giving a "turban" effect, with two large pink velvet and organza artificial flowers to front left. Lined in brocade of cream ground with golden/brown branches and leaves, and pale blue blossoms. Cream grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label: "Henry's Hats"
Hat of natural straw. The low, domed crown is encircled by a green velvet ribbon, and enhanced with artificial flowers in yellow, coral, and peach. The oval brim is set off-center, and "waved at one side to creat an undulating effect. Unlined, with a pale green inner grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label: "Henrys / Dallas"
Pillbox hat of white straw. The slightly domed crown is of made of white (artificial?) straw, a tight narrow weave under a layer of wide, looser bands which weave in and out of the tightly woven section. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of white grosgrain ribbon around inside base of crown. There are no labels or marks in the hat.
Pillbox hat of off-white and pink brocade. The conical crown with flattened top is made of brocade fabric with flowers and butterflies in off-whites, gray/greens and pinks on a grayish ground. On the right side of the hat is a large bow made of strips of the brocade backed in a gray/blue. The center of the bow is encircled with a band of gray beads, with a matching band of beads at base of hat. The hat has a light tan veil. The hat is lined in gray/blue mesh and edged with an inner hatband of gray/blue grosgrain ribbon. A small plastic comb is attached at either side to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago"
Turban of light brown velvet and burnt sienna / orange brown satin. Affixed to front is a large artificial flower in shades of pinks and pale greens, enhanced with maroon feathers. Lined in pale brown netting. Around inside of brim is band of light brown grosgrain ribbon. Label sewn onto ribbon: "An Original By / Henry's Hats".
Toque hat of black fur felt. Trimmed with wide black (faux?) snakeskin belt with large round buckle covered in same. Unlined, with black grosgrain ribbon headband. Label sewn to headband: "Walker-Marr / Dallas"
Hat of navy blue fur felt. Designed as a modified pillbox hat, the low, domed crown is set into a cylinder of the same felt, giving a "waist" just below the upper edge of the crown. At front of the hat is a large flat bow of off-white ribbed cotton(?). Hat has a lower, inset rim piped in same fabric as bow. Hat is unlined, with inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Accompanied by a single hatpin, the head covered with matching navy blue fur felt. Retailer's label inside: "Made To Order Hat / Bergdorf / Goodman / Fifth Ave at 58th St."; Stamp inside crown of maker of felt form: "[Coat of arms] Fur Felt / Body by / Mallory"
Hat of flowers. The low, domed crown of stiffened white net is covered with green fabric and completely covered in large artificial flowers in shades of pinks and reds, with scattered green vinyl leaves. The hat is lined in white lace, and has a double inner hatband of black and of a silvery gold metallic rickrack. Label inside: "Henrys / Dallas". Henrys has alternately been identified as a hat maker and as a retailer.
Breton hat of blue fur felt. The domed crown is encircled by a wide band of blue grosgrain ribbon with large bow at back. The wide brim curves up and out around the crown, and is lined in the same fur. The crown is unlined, with a blue grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Body manufacturer's stamp inside crown: "Imported Body / Milady / Made in the United Kingdom" Retailer's label inside: "Neiman-Marcus"
Hat of brown felt and brown feathers. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot") with shaped close crown of brown felt totally covered with long brown feathers laid lengthwise across crown and forming "petals" at edges. Overlaid with brown mesh veil. Unlined, but edged with narrow band of brown grosgrain ribbon. Accompanied by two pearl-headed pins. Designer's label sewn inside: "Styled by Coralie" Attached to hat is original paper label: "Thank You! / We hope you enjoy / your beautiful new hat" and "28 42J / 303"
Breton hat of deep red fur felt. The cylindrical crown is flattened at top, and is encircled at the base by a wide band of horizontally pleated peau de soie silk satin. The wide brim is curved out and up around the crown, and is lined/faced with same fur, while the part of the brim facing the crown is faced with deep red fabric. The crown is unlined, with an inner deep red grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label inside: "Styled by / Coralie" Stamp inside crown of the maker of the felt body: "Selene / HB / Body made in Italy"
Toque of brown and green straw. The toque has a high, cylindrical crown with flattened top. The crown is made of bands of very fine green and more coarse brown/tan woven straw. The flattened top is of green, and along the sides are three narrow green bands, three narrow tan/brown bands, and the lowest, wide band of tan/brown. To one side of the toque is affixed a spray of artificial lily of the valley, tied with a red grosgrain ribbon bow. The hat is lined in blue/gray fabric, with an inner hatband of off-white grosgrain ribbon round the inside base of the crown. Designer's label sewn to inner headband: "Made in / England / Christian Dior / Chapeaux". Retailer's label sewn to inner headband: "Lazarus / French Room / Columbus, Ohio".
Breton hat of beige fur felt. The domed crown of beige fur felt is divided in two along a line from front left to back right, the split edged in a dark beige/light brown vinyl band, with a mushroom-shaped vinyl-covered shape at the top. The wide brim curves up and around the crown, and is lined/faced with the same fur felt, while the part of the brim facing the crown is lined in beige fabric. The crown is unlined, with a beige grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label inside: "Styled by / Coralie" Stamped inside crown, mark of maker of felt body: "Empress / Body made in Western Germany"
Toque of black fur. Base of crown decorated with black felt that creates loops half the height of the crown. Unlined with black grosgrain ribbon headband. Label on inside of band: "VOLK" Stamped on inside top: "Empress / Body made in Western Germany"
Hat of black felt. Resembling the cap of a mushroom, the hat consists of a wide, low, soft crown that extends out as a brim would. The underside of the "cap" is of the same material, and the whole is set on a short cylindrical "stalk" which fits on the wearer's head. Inner part of hat is unlined, with an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Retailer's label inside: "Made to order hat / Bergdorf / Goodman / On The Plaza - New York"
Cocktail dress of black silk faille and white lawn with black embroidered scallops. Wide boat neckline, short sleeves, natural waistline, princess seaming. Heavy black faille overskirt pleated into waist, cut higher at front to show underskirt of white lawn. Underskirt has horizontal bands of triple lines of scallops, scalloped lower edge of underskirt. Built in hoop understructure with petersham belt and four steel (?) internal hoops. Overlay with petticoat of white cotton with wide horsehair band at hem. Center back zipper.
Pillbox hat of black cotton(?). The cylindrical crown is mostly flattened at top, with diamond-shaped patches of same fabric attached at sides, overlapping top and bottom. Patches are outlined in black faceted beads. The hat is lined in black fabric, and has inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label inside: "Design By / d. charles"
Dress of black wool with black leather trim. The street-length dress has a standup collar trimmed in snaps. Front opening is leather trimmed and has 5 self-covered snaps. Detachable front skirt panel is edged along top with black leather trim and secured with 5 self-covered snaps. Bracelet length sleeves trimmed with snaps at cuff. Back zipper. Fully lined in black satin. Handwritten label on inside back seam: "Pierre Balmain Fall 1955"
(At Left) Evening ensemble of brown silk shantung. The camisole is sleeveless, with a boat neckline. Center back closure with 10 small circular buttons covered with matching fabric. The blouse is lined in dark brown silk, and has an inner structure of net and metal boning. The understructure extends below the top to give structure to the skirt. The inner net and boning layer has a center back closure of 14 hook-and-eyes, matching along same line as outer closure. The skirt is of matching materials, A-line, below-the-knee length. It has a 2" waistband decorated with horizontal ruching. Center-back zipper closure with two hook-and-eyes in waistband. The skirt has an attached black rayon gorgette underslip, and an attached black nylon petticoat. The petticoat has a horsehair braid incorporated in the hem for stiffening. The matching swing coat is calf length, with a rolled collar and short sleeves. It is constructed with several layers of organza for structure and a tuck panel around the coat for decoration and flounce. Lined in brown silk. There are no labels in the garment. Photograph is from the exhibition "Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers", held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows suit as displayed. From the original collection of the Dallas Museum of Fashion, which later became the Texas Fashion Collection.
Cloche-style hat of blue/gray feathers. The crown of the hat is made of dark blue mesh overlaid with a mosaic of blue/gray feathers. Brimless, the lower edge of the crown arcs upwards at front and slightly in back. The hat is lined in the mesh, and has an inner hatband at the lower inside edge of the crown. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Made In / France", "Christian Dior / Paris"
Daytime dress of printed cotton lawn. Street-length of white cotton lawn is printed with stripes of grays and coral is sleeveless, with wide straps and V-neckline in front and back. The bodice is cut so that stripes are diagonal, meeting at center front and back and emphasizing the V-neckline. The narrow waist is slightly dropped, and is defined by a wide set-in decorative belt of the same fabric, with stripes running horizontally, with fabric-wrapped rectangular buckle and ends. The full skirt has stripes running vertically, and is gathered at the waist/bottom of the belt. There is one underskirt of cream faille, and a second of stiff cream netting. The center-back zipper closure extends from single hook-and-eye at neckline to base of belt. Bodice is partly lined with cream faille and has internal boning. There is a white grosgrain ribbon inner waistband with hook-and-eye closures. Designer's label is sewn inside dress, to bodice lining at left side: "Adele Simpson". This dress was a gift of the designer Adele Simpson and her husband Wesley Simpson to the Dallas Museum of Fashion, which later became the Texas Fashion Collection.
a) Toque of red/orange and yellow print wool. Two hatpins with spherical heads covered in material matching toque and head scarf. Lined in white with "Mr John" pattern in gold. Designer' label on inside hatband with rhinestone studded, tabbed ends: "Mr. John" b) Scarf of matching material with large square of lattice work crochet netting of red/orange in middle of scarf to provide veiled effect. Designer's label: "Mr. John"
Cape coat of heavy rust mohair. Rounded collar. Center front opening with 5 large, round, marbled brown plastic buttons reinforced with hook & bar. Machine stitched button holes. Street length. Slit pockets at side seams. Lined in rust colored silk satin fabric. Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"
Hat of off-white fur felt. The crown of the hat is shaped as low, domed tear-drop, the point curving down along the back of the wearer's head. The tightly rolled brim follows the shape of the crown, and creates a "tail" at back of head. The hat has an inner off-white grosgrain ribbon hatband, and a black elastic back-strap to help secure it to wearer's head. Accompanied by two hatpins, the heads covered with matching felt. Designer's label: "E Garnett / Italian Made / Imported Original"
Hat of brown/burnt ocher fur felt. The hat is designed with a low, domed, saucer-shaped crown set into the wide, downwards-curving bowl-shaped brim of same material. The hat rests on the head with an inner ring which extends down from crown, and has an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. At sides are black grosgrain covered clips to help secure hat to wearer's head, and a black elastic strap to secure hat around back of wearer's head. With two hatpins, the heads covered with matching fur felt. Designer's label inside: "Eleanora Garnett / Italian Made / Imported Original"
Hat of black straw. The hat is formed as a wide, shallow domed crown, overlaid with "fringe" sewn in a dense spiral from the top center rosette, creating tiers/layers. Brimless, the crown rests on the head, with black straw covered arched bands to help secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label inside: "Lee Bury / Hats / of Dallas"
Hatlet of navy blue ribbed fabric. The hatlet is formed of plated fabric, layered and curved around to form the low crown. At front is a bow of same grosgrain-type fabric. With navy blue net veiling. Retailer's label: "Lou Lattimore / Dallas" With Union Label.
Pillbox style hat of mustard yellow dyed Persian lamb (aka astrakhan). The short, cylindrical crown has a flat, inset top of brown velvet, and slightly bowed sides of yellow curly Persian lamb. The hat is lined in a bronze silk(?), and has inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband and a brown elastic cord to help secure it to wearer's head. No labels.
Hat of red/orange straw. Constructed of bands of braided straw sewn in a spiral, the crown is a shallow cylinder with inset flattened top, and flares out at base to form the steeply sloped brim. At left side of crown is large applied flat bow of same straw. Unlined, the hat has an inner band of self, partly overlaid with cream velvet as a hatband.
Little Girl's pinafore dress ensemble of pink organdy, consisting of: A) Dress. Jewel neck and short puffed sleeves are trimmed in white lace. Skirt gathers at yoke. Center back opening of two mother-of-pearl buttons. B) Pinafore. Square neck and double layer of ruffles trimmed in white lace for sleeves. Skirt has a ruche of lace above scalloped hem. Center back opening of three mother-of-pearl buttons.
Little girl's dress of alternating pink linen and sheer organdy fabric in scallop design. Round neckline; sleeveless. Bodice has four round plastic buttons down center back. Skirt is gathered at natural waist; piping detail in pink linen at front waist seam. Pink linen sash attaches at side seams and ties in back. Fully lined in sheer organdy fabric.
Hatlet of blue satin. Formed on a velvet-covered framework and net, the low, shaped crown is embellished with 5 large light turquoise blue velvet roses with light blue satin leaves, overlaid with a blue net veil. At top is large bow of narrow blue satin ribbon. Retailer's label underneath: "Sanger's / Dallas" Union label beneath retailer's label.
Pair of gloves of tan suede. The wrist-length gloves are plain, with hand-stitching. Size/Designer Label stamped inside: "7 / Made in France / by / Roger Fare" Retailer Label: "Neiman-Marcus / Made in France"
Picture hat of black felt. Low, domed crown of black felt, encircled at base by band of black felt with large white rose of white fabric at front left. The wide brim has a shallow curve downwards, and is edged with a wide band of off-white twill. The crown of the hat is unlined; the underside of the brim has concentric bands of off-white twill. The inner hatband is of black grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label: "Mae Kelley / Exclusive Hand Made Hats / Whittier, Calif."
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