Ensemble - Kutchi Dress, Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan. This assembled ensemble consists of: 1. Dress. Full-length. High neckline, slight V-shape. Front yoke/bib panel of fine needlework geometric shapes and patterns, in orange, purple, green, and blue. Front of bodice with four large embroidered rosettes of silver couching with orange silver/white, and black borders. Over-length, wide sleeves of patchwork of materials, including red, purple, and pink. Cuffs of heavy silver couching with central band of small circular mirrors in needlework frames. High, narrow waistband of silver/gold couching. Front of skirt formed of thin black fabric heavily gathered to form voluminous front panel. Wide band of red fabric lining inside of front panel at hem. Back of bodice formed of red cloth with vertical white stripes. Embroidered panels under arms. Back of skirt formed of upper panel of purple printed with blue and off-white flowers and leaves, heavily gathered into waistband. Lower panel of purple fabric, as full as upper panel. Black hem on back of skirt. 2. Headpiece of silver set with glass and plastic(?) rubies and emeralds, center plaque with glass segments simulating lapis and jade(?). Central circular plaque with central red circular glass "stone" surrounded by 6 alternating triangular green and blue glass plaques forming a star. Star is encircled by ring of glass (plastic?) simulated rubies and emeralds. Outer openwork border. Extending above central plaque and connected by 4 small metal bar-shaped links is a triangular plaque set with same simulated rubies and emeralds. Extending horizontally from central plaque on either side are three rectangular metal plaques set with same simulated rubies and emeralds. All plaques connected by metal bar-shaped links. Hanging below connected plaques is fringe of short metal chain sections terminating in hollow spheres. The plaques are sewn to a narrow black cloth band designed to fit …
Daytime dress of navy blue silk crepe in modified shirtwaist style. Yoked shoulders with collar. Inner neckline has 7 small mother-of-pearl buttons for additional detachable collar to drape over existing collar. Center front opening with 6 large 1-1/4" mother of pearl buttons with vertical buttonholes. Long set-in sleeves with matching button at cuff. Evidence of smocking below waist seam, but threading is missing. Street length. Unlined. Designer's label at right seam near hem: "Traina-Norell / New York" b) Contour belt of navy leather. Wider at ends with rectangular buckle covered in same. Back stamped "14".
Pouch. Orange cotton pouch, rounded at bottom. Suspended by gold metallic cord. Edged with metallic thread lace. The surface of the pouch is embroidered with various colors of metallic embroidery, mostly chain-stitch. Lined in orange cotton.
A) Evening dress of rose/pale pink/pale mauve crepe-back satin charmeuse. Inspired by Chinese Cheongsam-style garments, the dress is full-length, slim fitted, with slight standing collar fastened with hidden hook & loop. Sleeveless, the dress has front opening from throat to slightly below right shoulder, secured with three large rhinestone set circular brass(?) buttons. Very slightly raised waist with triangular "flap", open and hanging down from center front to right hip. From just below hip to center front at hem is secondary opening, with 7 buttons matching bodice. Hem slightly scalloped at front overlap corners, and at right side. Left side underarm zipper. Combined designer's/retailer's label inside bodice: "Neiman-Marcus dallas / Maurice Rentner" B) Tie belt of same fabric, 3/4" wide.
Maternity ensemble consisting of: A) Jacket-style top of brown wool plaid with cream and light blue. Shawl collar, with squared front neckline. Center front double-breasted opening having two vertical rows of 5 domed self-covered buttons, and 2 hidden snaps at top. Long sleeves. Flaps at hips simulating pockets. Built-in shoulder pads. Unlined. Designer's label at center back neckline: "[logo] Page Boy / Dallas" B) Kangaroo style skirt of brown cotton(?)twill. Mid-calf-length, with slight A-line formed by darts around waistline. Thin waistband with ties at front for large rounded "scoop" opening, which has a single strap that extends up and loops around waist tie. Small slit at center-front hemline. Unlined. No labels in skirt.
Wide sash of red-brown, ivory, and indigo blue cotton. Backstrap loomed cotton warp faced plain weave with warp ikat design with diamonds in the center and linear, repeating pattern on either side. Hand twisted and knotted fringe. Approx 11" wide.
Dress of black velvet. Knee length; short puffed sleeves. Raised empire waist gathers into bodice at waistband. High bound neckline has a slight V in front and forms ties at back. Center back closure of three self-covered buttons and loops at neckline; left side zipper under arm. Unlined; padded shoulders.
DuBarry pattern 5070 to make a dress with tucked shirtwaist-style bodice, short or long set-in sleeves, front button closure, peter pan or bow collar, and gore skirt, including illustrations of the finished pieces and information about sizing and construction on the back.
McCall's pattern 5099 to make a one-piece dress with extended shoulders, surplice bodice, and gathered skirt, including illustrations of the finished pieces and information about sizing and construction on the back.
Hat of black knit. In the style of a beret, the hat is of black knitted yarn. The crown is circular, somewhat domed when worn. No brim. The whole is covered in long, curving, pointed black sequins. Hat is unlined. Label sewn inside crown: "Hand Made / In Italy". Hat has been photographed with padding to provide shape. When not worn or padded, hat flattens.
Necktie of off-white silk with grey diagonal embroidered stands with vertical off-white ribs in between; four in hand style; 1 1/2" at widest point. Lined in off-white silk with blue D'ore print. Labels: Dreyfuss & Son pure silk; Woven in Switzerland D'ore imported silk
Cloche style hat in taupe felt. Slightly flared brim. Trimmed at front with red feather bird. Green and black coque feathers drape from front over back of hat. Beige colored veil on front. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Milgrim"
Hat of black organza. The hat is in the form of a pillbox designed as a turban. A wired framework is overlaid with black organza, pleated to form long folds running front to back. At the front of the hat is a large bow of the same material, the trailing pieces pleated to match the crown and affixed to run in same direction. Lined in black mesh, and with inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Elastic string inside to run around back of wearer's head to secure hat. Two small hatpins with custom covers of same material on heads are stuck in back of hat. Designer's Label: "Lilly / Dache / Paris New York / 78th East 56th Street, N.Y."
Hatlet of black straw, net, and velvet. The hatlet is based on a metal underframe shaped as an open circle, wrapped, on which are set six black straw pompom forms set in a circle about 6" in diameter. At center of circle is a bow of narrow black velvet ribbon with 4 extending trailing ribbons. The whole is set on a circular veil of black mesh net. Designer's label: "Norman-Pualvin / New York".
Pamela or halo style hat of natural colored straw cloth. Crown ringed with brown silk organza roses. Edge of brim covered with natural colored grosgrain. One hatpin with black, teardrop shaped head. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Unlined. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Henrys / Dallas"
Hatlet of black velvet. Formed as Juliet cap, the hatlet has a crown of black velvet formed as a stiff low dome with shaped edge creating triangular points at front, back, and each side. At each side of the crown is an applied matching velvet bow with trailing ends. The hat is overlaid with black netting, with small black plastic circles worked into the veil's mesh. The hat is lined in blue cloth, and has an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon around the inside lower edge of the crown. Manufacturer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Frances / Dallas, Texas"
A) Hat of black felt; embroidery in green, purple, maroon, yellow, light green thread; beads in purple. B) Handbag of black felt lined with quilted satin; embroidery in green, purple, yellow, light green, maroon thread; beads in purple. Zipper and bow on handle.
Photograph of what looks like a man and woman, kissing. It is actually one person. Taken from a performance, the photograph shows the woman side in a short, polka dot dress and the man in a dark suit with a rifle. The face is obscured by hat of man to lend a hint of mystery. To left is a stage-set pine tree. Stamped on reverse: "Phone TEMPLE BAR 6547. / PERFECT PHOTO REPRODUCTION Co. / Coliseum Chambers, 24 CHANDOS STREET, W.C.2 / MANAGER: JOE DAVIS."
Blouse of navy blue wool. Wide, boat neckline with inner wide white pique lining which folds over dark plum(?) facing of wool collar, to become shawl collar. Double breasted, with three pair of circular black buttons and single hook-and-eye at waist. Sleeveless, with slight "cap" effect caused by wide shoulders darting, and deep diagonal line of sides. Raised waist and flaring peplum. Unlined. Inner structure augmented with satin ribbons sewn to help hold structure of bodice. Designer's label at inside lower left seam: "Renée Collard / Paris" Retailer's label overlapping lower edge of designer's label: "Janga / 98 Faubg St Honoré Paris"
Jacket of black wool and monkey fur. Suit jacket of black wool, long torso, slightly fitted, single-breasted with center front opening of 4 circular self-covered buttons and single hook-and-eye. Long sleeves. Small shoulder pads. From waist to hem coat is trimmed with wide band of long black monkey fur. Retailer's label at inside back collar: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" National Recovery Board, Coat and Suit Industry label at inside waist, "001706"
Little girl's Confirmation dress of off-white rayon faille. Mid-length; short puffed sleeves with ruched cuffs bordered in lace. Vertical flat pleats at waist of skirt. Collar has lace trim and double bands of ruching in front with two flowers and green ribbon leaves sewn on lower corners of collar; a silk ribbon bow is sewn on center-front. Ruched insert down center front of bodice. Center back closure of three self-covered buttons with loops. Unlined. With tie belt of matching fabric. Center back is stitched closed and front ends are cut on the bias and open to pointed ends.
Nightgown of black chiffon. Full length with black lace bodice accented with pale green ribbon. Long split at center front and hemline trimmed in black lace.
Black synthetic full length nightgown with V-neckline. Lace, 1-1/2 inch wide, trims neckline and makes shoulder straps. Also under bust to form Empire waistline. Small ties in back. 3/4 inch lace at hemline, 9 inch slits in front.
Black full length chiffon nightgown with V neck. Lace trim 1-1/2 inch around neckline; and 3 inch wide shoulder straps of sheer fabric. Empire waistline. Label: Tailored by Ro Jene.
Hat of black felt. The low, domed crown of black felt is ornamented with a double-spray of black feathers at front. The brim, also of black felt, is turned up at front and turned down at back. The underside of the brim, which shows at front, is lined in black lace embellished with tiny black sequins and beads (jet?). The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Attached to inner hatband is a small black plastic comb to secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Grace Nugent / Los Angeles, Calif." Supplier's logo mark of Merrimac De Luxe Fur Felt stamped to inside of crown.
Negligee of off white silk with a yellow green floral print and green ribbon trim as narrow straps, along neckline, and at waist. Lace straps, sleeveless, gathered bodice, natural waist, ankle length, unlined.
Dress of black rayon crepe in an asymmetrical design with diagonal pink rayon crepe left side shoulder and sleeve. Pink diagonal line meets under left arm with hanging pink fabric accent. High V-neckline with black fabric draping at left. Mid length skirt with draped accent down left. Two black hanging ties at left side seam waist. Long, tapered sleeves. Center back zipper closure. Unlined; shoulder pads. Designer label: Adrian / Original
Negligee of light blue silk. full length with ivory lace trim at hem; scoop neck back and front. Trimmed with ivory lace. shirred gathers at bodice front.
Negligee and bed jacket ensemble of light beige crepe de chine with blue crepe de chine belt. Bias cut; handmade. a) Jacket: bolero length jacket with short gathered sleeves. The sleeve openings are bound in pale blue/gray silk ribbon. Curved front opening without closure devices. The opening is edged with a wide band of appliqued pale blue/gray silk in an abstracted motif extending from the sideseams and around the neckline. The opening and hem of the jacket are bound in pale blue/gray silk ribbon. Shoulder pads. b) Negligee: Full-length. bias-cut negligee with sleeveless empire bodice. Plunging V-neckline front and back forming wide shoulder straps. The front neckline of the negligee is decorated with ivory on ivory appliques to match the jacket. Rolled hem. c) Belt: pale blue/gray silk belt to match. Self tie.
Negligee/nightgown of white lace over pink synthetic chiffon with a two-tiered ruffled hem. Full length; pink ribbon drawstring on low rounded neckline. Lace ruffle cap shoulders. Pink ribbon tie at inserted waist band. Center front hook & eye closure.
Nightgown of off white or beige silk charmeuse and chiffon. Full length, empire bodice of gathered silk chiffon creating round neckline and sleeveless profile trimmed in silk charmeuse, full skirt of bias silk charmeuse, unlined.
Nightgown ensemble of pink cotton plissé. A) Nightgown. Bodice trimmed in white lace lattice pattern with white work embroidered flowers and French knots. Waltz-length; sleeveless. Rounded lace neckline with inserted white satin ribbon. White satin ribbon drawstring at waist. B) Bed jacket in matching white lace lattice pattern with white work embroidered flowers and French knots. Short, bell-shaped sleeves. Edges of white lace with inserted white satin ribbon. Sleeveless. pink cotton. waltz-length nightgown with lace trim and matching short pink robe with criss crossed trim.
Nightgown of pale pink silk charmeuse and off-white lace, bodice of two wide panels of machine made bobbin lace that overlap at the center front creating a v-neckline and surplice bodice, sleeveless, skirt of silk gathered at natural waist, full length
Nightgown of pale green sheer silk chiffon, full length, lace inserts at yoke and bottom half of long sleeves, collar trimmed with ruffled self, set of self ties at neckline, gathered sleeve cuffs.
Gloves (child's?) of kidskin; off-white; two 1/4" strips of tan (yellow) leather trim at wrist and base of thumb. Button closure at wrist on palm side of glove. Length: 20.5cm; Width: 8.5cm
Lounging robe of sage green wool challis. Full length; long sleeves. Double collar of matching sage wool and ivory peau de soie. Center front lapped opening and attached belt. Closure of two hook and eye with one snap at top of opening. Lined in ivory peau de soie. Designer label: Galbraith / Original
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