Hat of black panne velvet. Designed somewhat as a toque, the hat has a high, cylindrical crown which is encircled at base by a wide black velvet ribbon with bow at back and spray of black feathers extending from bow. The brim extends down at a sharp angle. Hat is unlined, with inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label sew to inner hatband: "Styled by / Coralie" and "Finlan". Stamped inside crown: "Flechete / Body made in France"
Handbag with cast and chased silver frame decorated with openwork figures of children harvesting grapes. Ball/snap closure. Silver suspension chain of alternating oval links and links formed of three flower-heads. Bag is oval shaped, black wool with petite point embroidery decoration on each side of a bouquet of trumpet shaped flowers. Pink satin lining. Hallmarked "800" on frame.
Handbag of black silk faille with multicolored floral embroidery. Purse has round, gold frame in leaf motif and plunger closure. Gold chain handle. Peach lining with pocket. Retailer's label: " Sanger Bros. Inc. / Paris - France" Label above pocket in side of purse: "Made in France"
Handbag of glass beads of boldly colored shades of green, yellow, red, blue, pink and black in a somewhat stylized floral design. Bronze frame cast with floral forms and openwork, and set with navy blue and green cabochons. Roses on frame have remains of applied coloration. Suspension chain in rope form with spaced clusters of green and blue beads. Bag has looped and twisted fringe at bottom composed of green and black faceted beads. Pink satin lining, mostly deteriorated. Ball and socket filigree closure.
Jacket of black silk satin. The jacket, formed as a basque bodice with typical close-fitting achieved by seaming, has extended front panels and is edged with ivory lace. The jacket is embellished with dark blue velvet and olive brown chenille appliques of floral and leaf forms and black jet beading. Lined in ivory silk satin. Photograph is from the exhibition Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers, held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows jacket as displayed with a period hat (Accession #: 1981.015.001) and skirt (Accession #: 1967.025.099).
Pair of gloves of kid skin leather; off-white; just below wrist length; single snap fastenings at wrist. On back of each glove, running length-wise down hand are three embroidered bands, pink and blue chevrons in diamond formation on dark blue bands. Cuffs from wrist to end are lined with black silk heavily embroidered with floral motifs in blue, pinks, reds, whites, greens, etc. in chain-stitch. Remainder of glove is unlined. Stamped inside glove: "Modèle déposé [Fr-En: Registered Design] / Paris" and "6" and part of other marks. Metal parts of the snaps have what appear to be Chinese/Japanese characters stamped into them.
Pair of women's sandals of silver metallic leather. Designed as "gladiator style" sandals, with six narrow silver leather criss-crossed or interwoven straps at front over vamp, and six more similar straps extending around ankle and originating from vertical band at heel. 5" zipper along heel band. Designer's label on both sides of sole: "Barbara Bui" Impressed on underside of sole: "Made in Spain" and "40". Attached sticker under sole showing pictograms indicating which parts of shoe are leather.
Hat of green and white felted fur. The hat has a domed, circular crown and an asymmetrical up-turning brim. The crown and inner part of the brim are dyed in a green and white "op-art" pattern of geometric shapes which can be viewed as small green shapes on larger white shapes on a green ground. The outer part of the brim is dyed solid green. At one side is an arrow-shaped ornament of green grosgrain ribbon, the tail of which extends out over the brim and curls upwards. Inside the crown is a hatband of green grosgrain ribbon. Sewn to the hatband ribbon is a large designer's tag: "Schiaparelli / Paris". Stamped inside the crown "Body / Made In Italy"
Pair of shoes of ivory leather and black patent leather. Made in the "spectator" style, the rounded toe-box, the 4" high blocky heel, and the lower part of the heel upper are of black patent leather, while the rest of the upper is of ivory leather. The black patent leather panels are decorated with white stitching along the edges. Lined in brown leather. Designer label: "Xavier Danaud / Paris" Handwritten inside: "7 1/2 B 2019"
Hat of tan fur felt. The highly structured hat of fur felt has a somewhat conical crown, the top with a low dome. Around the top edge of the crown is a wide band of same felt, slanting down, enhanced with vertical stitching. Below this slanting band, around the main body of the crown, is a wide band of brown satin-finished ribbon, decorated with 8 horizontal rows of top stitching, secured at back under a vertical band of the felt. The narrow brim, ca. 1" wide, angles downwards, sharply at back and sides, gently at front, and rolls under. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of tan grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label: "Schiaparelli / Paris"
Hat of light brown felt and black voile. The domed crown is of light brown felt, curving slightly and extending outwards at front. Mounted at front is a large leaf-shape of fine black voile with black thread veining and wired edge. The leaf from is sculptural, with the wired edge curved and bent. At side of leaf is a spray of yellow feathers and black ribbon. Hat is unlined, with inner light brown grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label (stating reproduction: "Reproduction Autorisee de / Janette Colombier / 4 Avenue Matignon / Paris" Maker's label: "Fifth Avenue / G Howard Hodge / New York" Maker's label for felt body: "Gaby / Made / In / Czechoslovakia"
Mini dress of bright red wool jersey knit. The tubular mini dress has a rounded neckline and short sleeves. Black, shiny vinyl trim at neckline, sleeve hem, lower hem, and in the form of six Pierre Cardin bullseye trademarks arranged in a triangle from natural waist to lower hem. At center back are hook and eye and zipper closure. Dress is unlined. Designer's label: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York" Care label: "The vinyl trim / on this garment / has been specially treated / to make dry cleaning possible".
Clutch style purse of size 18 beads in paisley pattern in shades of pink, blue, peach, black and opal white. Wide brass lift lock closure includes 5 shapes of size 16 beads with repeating patterns. Lined in cream colored satin with two pockets. Finger loop of same on back side of purse at top. Maker's label on inside of purse: "Made in France / Exclusively by / Florentine"
Hat of brown felt in modified beret-style. Crown is draped with a band of pearls as trim on right side. Unlined with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Maker's label: "Haute Mode / Michèle / Paris"
Hat of black sequins over net/lace. Styled as a modified pillbox or beret, the hat has a circular low, flattened crown and no brim. The base is of black lace/net, totally covered with massed black sequins. At sides are small diamond-shaped sections that extend down to either side of wearer's head. Hat is unlined, with black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Label inside: "Sequins Styled / and / Imported / from France".
Hat of gray felt. The domed crown is constructed with the the outline of a rounded square, with attached stiffened double-brim, which turns up on all sides, forming a point at front and at sides, but rounded in back. At the back of the hat the brim extends downwards, forming a point. The hat is unlined, and edged with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. A small stitched star on the hatband indicates the front of the hat. Visible behind the ribbon in one section is the woven straw backing used to stiffen the brim. Designer's label inside crown, sewn to ribbon band: "Hattie Carnegie / Custom Made" Stamped inside crown on felt: Circular mark containing a logo of three rabbits and partly missing word "... URLAP", and below logo ".... en France".
Headband of black felt draped and decorated with brightly multicolored plaid silk taffeta. Loop of plaid fabric in front held by large brass hatpin with head of three branches of three leaves each. Ends of fabric tie in back with hanging, frayed ends. Designer's label: "Paris 420 Rue St. Honoré / Erik / Londres" Label above designer's label: "Made in France"
Ensemble of burgundy crepe a) Jacket is hip-length, and has round collar; bodice opens at center front, and has wide waistband that fastens with 2 self-buttons and loops. Gathered into waistband is peplum with circular ruffle; long sleeves are gathered at armhole have circular ruffles going down and around sleeves; b) Dress is below-knee-lenght, and has low V-neck formed by wide shoulder straps which button to lower back of dress; set-in empire waistline; sleeveless; bias cut skirt; zipper at left side back. Designer's label: "Ossie Clark / Paris" "Made in France" Handwritten style label: "59115 - 38 - 97727/19.92"
Skirt suit. A) Jacket of ivory wool with shirt collar with long, wide lapel that is rolled around toward the front and held in place by 2 gold coiled ornaments, one on each side; single snap closure at center-front with gold S-shaped ornament over; jacket is fitted at waist with two crescent seams; long sleeves with inner shoulder pads; two diagonal pockets at hips with lapels; lower hip length; lined in soft white synthetic. B) Pencil skirt of black wool with 4 panels and 1” waistband with diagonal snap closure at left back side; left back zip closure; 6” slit at front right; 24” length; lined in black synthetic. Size 38 Designer's label: "Thierry Mugler / Paris" "Made in France"
Skirt suit. A) Jacket of fuchsia flat weave wool with ring collar and zip-front closure; long raglan sleeves with inner shoulder pads; circular geometrical stitched panels at front and back; two circular patch pockets at hips; crescent princess seams; fitted at waist; peplum at back with reverse box pleat and attached belt of self-wool with metal buckle above; lower hip length; partially lined in magenta synthetic. B) Skirt of black stretch wool with 2” waistband with diagonal snap closure; darts at front and back; center-back zip closure; 18 ½” length. Size 38 Designer's label: "Thierry Mugler / Paris" "Made in France"
Jacket of black, green, red, pink, and yellow flannel in a large, painterly plaid pattern. The jacket is just below hip-length, and has a round neckline and no collar. Center front closure has a zipper with a gold metal rose charm pull, matching the pulls of the zippers on the two diagonal slit pockets at hips. Long-sleeved, with three non-functional buttons at wrists, formed as coiled snakes/spirals of gold metal. The jacket has inner shoulder pads and is fully lined in black satin. Designer's label: "Ungaro / Parallele / Paris"
Skirt suit of purple worsted wool. A) Jacket has collar with long lapel with geometric cut edge; geometric cuts along hem line; double breasted snap closure with 2 purple faux buttons at front; princess seams; long sleeves with vents at the wrists, and inner shoulder pads; hits at hips. B) Skirt with two vents at front hemline; center-back zip and hook and eye closure; 19 ½” length. Designer's label: "Thierry Mugler / Paris" "Made in France"
Shirt dress of brown cotton. Knee-length, with v-neckline and shirt-style collar and lapels. Center front opening with square snaps. Two patch pockets at bust with box pleat at center of each; pockets extend to waist seam; elbow-length sleeves with 2” cuff, and inner shoulder pads; skirt with two patch pockets at each side with pleats as upper pockets; pockets extend to hem. Size 42 With matching belt of brown cotton backed with leather; covered rhombus buckle has one elongated angle; 34 ½” length. Designer's label: "Thierry Mugler / Activ" "Made in Italy"
Hat of navy blue fur felt. The low crown is domed, with steep sides at sides and back, while the front has a shallow slope extending out to become a slight brim/visor. The hat is unlined, with a dark blue grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" Stamped inside felt crown: "French Importation" "Ghazelle" Size label: "21 1/2"
Hat of taupe leather. The soft-sided crown is somewhat domed. The brim is turned up, forming a "cuff" around the crown. At front is a large bow of the same leather. The hat is lined in white, and has an inner hatband of taupe grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label: "Balenciaga / 10, Avenue George V. Paris" Origin label: "Made in France"
Calotte of beige fabric, heavily beaded. The calotte (also spelled "calot") is constructed with a low, domed crown of stiffened net and beige fabric, with areas that extend down at sides and back. The whole is covered with clear sequins, yellow rhinestones, bugle beads, small metal strips, etc. The hat has an inner peach/beige grosgrain ribbon hatband, and four small metal loops sewn in to use to attach to wearer's head with bobby pins. Designer's label: "Gilbert Orcel / 5 Rue de Cirque Paris (8º)"
Coat of deep pink and white plaid wool. Double breasted with six circular plastic deep pink buttons and covered buttonholes. Bracelet length sleeves; street length. Two front vertical single welt pockets. Half belt across back of same material with two circular plastic deep pink buttons and covered buttonholes at ends. Lined in deep pink silk. Designer's label: "Balenciaga / 10, Avenue George V. Paris"
Hat of light beige fur felt. Domed crown with wide, folded brim. Two bows of self under the back rim. Headband of light gray grosgrain ribbon. Unlined. Designer's label at inside headband: "Miss Dior / Created by / Christian Dior" Stamp on inside crown: "Helios / Body Made in Italy"
Skirt suit of rose, blue and gold brocade. The ensemble consists of a jacket, skirt, and belt, all of the same "peacock eye" design brocade, of blue and gold on a rose pink ground. The hip-length jacket is a tailored shell with round neck and set-in full-length sleeves. It has a full-length center front opening which secures with a series of five snaps covered in rose-colored chiffon. The neckline, opening, cuffs, and hem are trimmed with a two lines of dark rose silk cord embellished with spiraled lines of red, gold, and blue bugle beads. The lines are 6cm. apart. The jacket is fully lined in rose colored silk, and has built-in shoulder pads. Sewn inside jacket at back collar is designer's label: "Givenchy", with a second label sewn underneath, which has a handwritten notation: "79461". The matching fitted skirt is above-the-knee length, with a 3.5 cm. wide waistband into which the skirt gathers. Zipper closure at left side, with two large hook-and-eyes in waistband. The brocade is lined in white chiffon, and there is an inner lining/half-slip of dark rose colored silk. There are no labels in the skirt. The belt is leather-backed, and faced with the same brocade. The rectangular pink and green rhinestone set buckle is non-functional, with a pair of hooks behind to catch in the metal-rimmed belt holes. There are no labels/marks on the belt.
Hat of black velvet and satin. Black satin oval skullcap with rolled black velvet brim. Fully lined in black satin. Black grosgrain ribbon headband. Narrow elastic chin strap. Designer's label stitched at center back headband: "Givenchy / Houvelle Boutique"
Dress of turquoise colored sateen cotton. Sleeveless with square yoked bodice. Lines of horizontal top stitching over body of dress. Two front patch pockets. Center front decorative short, white, plastic zipper. Back zipper closure with hook & eye. Knee length, but hem has been removed. Designer's label at inside back zipper: "Courrèges / Paris / made in france" Style number stamped on designer's label:"0078019" Care instruction/fabric content tag attached to bottom of designer's label.
Suit of navy blue wool with window pane plaid in white. a) Jacket of navy blue wool in window pane plaid in white. Double breasted with circular, blue buttons. Notched collar. Long sleeves. Fully lined in navy silk. Designer's label at back neckline: "Givenchy / Made in France" (b) Skirt of same fabric. Thigh down is pleated. Upper skirt is lined in navy silk. Left side zipper. (c) White blouse of heavy silk. Neck has extra fabric to tie a bow or knot.
Suit of cream/blue/pink wool boucle. A) Waist-length jacket with round neckline and no collar, two-piece set-in long sleeves, four patch pockets on front, and center-front opening with 5 circular sculptural lion-head gold-tone metal buttons. Matching non-functional buttons sewn on each pocket and on cuffs. Neckline, opening, cuffs, and top edges of pockets with rolled(?) edging. Fully lined in pink silk. Inside bottom hemline weighted with gold chain. No labels. B) Skirt of same material. Below-knee-length. Slim, almost straight, flaring slightly to hem. Narrow waistband with two hook-and-eye closures, just above zipper closure. Lined in pink silk. No labels.
Pantsuit of black wool. A) Jacket. Bolero-style cropped jacket has wide collar with soft edges and center front opening with no closure. Cut-away at front and with long sleeves, the jacket has inner shoulder pads and is fully lined in black silk satin. B) Pants. Full-length, high-waisted, and with tapered legs, the pants have a satin waistband and inverted pleats at top of hips at front and back. Slit pockets at sides open along edge of a black satin stripe which runs length of leg at side. The pants have a side zipper and hook-and-eye closure. Designer's label: "Yves Saint Laurent / Rive Gauche" "Made in / France" "Paris"
Hat of beige fur felt. The shaped crown is somewhat rounded, with a peak at front and a deep fold running from the peak towards the back right of the crown. At back, the crown is cut to form an inverted "sweetheart" line, while at front it curves forward and up slightly to form a small brim/visor effect. At top of crown, behind the peak, is a feather spray of brown and white feathers. The hat is unlined, with an inner dark brown grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label: "J. Suzanne Talbot / 8 Avenue Matignon" Origin label: "Made in France"
Pantsuit of orange and ivory polyester double knit. a) Blouse has Peter Pan collar and full yoke of ivory polyester. Orange knit fitted bodice has cap sleeves. Flares slightly below waist. Self fabric belt buckles around hips. Zipper CB. Designer label removed. b) Orange hip-hugger pants are straight legged, stopping above ankles. Overlapping hook and eye closure. Zipper CF. Entire suit is lined in white polysatin. Designer's label at inside center back: "Courreges / Paris" Label below designer's label: "Made in France 0" Retailer's label: "Made in France / Exclusively for / Bonwit Teller"
Dress of bright lime green wool. Knee-lenght and sleeveless, with a high neckline ornamented with 6 rows of topstitching. Empire waisted, with the lower portion of dress split into four long panels, scalloped to form petals with quilted, topstitched edges. Center back zipper with two hook & eyes. Upper portion of dress lined in lime colored acetate. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York" Retailer's label beneath designer's label: "Marie Leavell"
Shirt dress of black rayon, cotton, and acrylic; vest of bodice is of a leather-like open-check fabric with two slanted patch pockets at bust with box pleat at center and lapels; shirt collar with open-square notched lapel and snap placket down center-front with snap covers of black squares; elbow-length sleeves; skirt with two patch pockets at each side with pleats below lapel; knee-length. Size 42 With matching belt of black cotton backed with leather; covered rhombus buckle has one elongated angle; 34 ½” length. Designer's label: "Thierry Mugler / Activ" "Made in Italy"
Pillbox like hat of burnt sienna colored velvet. Standing brim and self bow. Top knot of self as trim. Crown close fitting like a calotte. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label on inside hatband: " Erik Braagaard / Paris / 8 rue St. Florentin" Label attached to top of designer's label: "Made in France" Model label under designer's label (partly illegible): "00 314"
Juliet cap of black velvet with wide band of ecru crocheted lace covering all but small circular area on top. Bow of ecru crocheted lace on front of hat held in place with band of black velvet. Lined in black silk. Designer's label: " J Suzanne Talbot / modes / 14 Rue Royal Paris" Tag attached to designer's label: "Made in France"
Yachting cap of royal blue knit. Visor edged in white wool. White anchor insignia at brow. Unlined. Retailer's label: "Tappé / Modes / 9 West 57 St. New York" Label below retailer's label: "Made in France"
Slouch type hat and matching ascot. a) Slouch style hat of gold lame with butterfly print in blues and reds. Large bow of self at front base of crown and smaller bow of self at base of crown in back. Asymmetrical brim, wider in front. Lined in black felt. Designer's label: "Paris New York / J. Suzanne Talbot / 8. Avenue Matignon" b) Ascot of matching gold lame with butterfly print in blues and reds. Designer's label: "Paris New York / J. Suzanne Talbot / 8. Avenue Matignon" Model number tag to right of designer's label (illegible): "38-5(?)"
Hat of black felt, brimless toque style. Cylindrical crown, rounded at top shoulders with extending cockscomb of three tiers extending upwards. Designer's label: "Bruyere / 4, Rue de Rondovi_Paris" Tag above designer's label: "Made in France"
Hat of gold felt. Alpine adaptation style sport hat with sunken crown. Brown grosgrain ribbon hatband and orange pheasant quill trim. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer label: "Blanche & Simone / Paris . 1 Rue de la Paix 1 . Paris"
Beret of dark brown felt. Raised crown with black and orange coque feather trim on left front. Front brim of hat is rolled up to form rounded edge folds on left and right. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Odette Colson / 25, Faub. Saint-Honore / Paris - 8me" Tag attached at bottom of designer's label: "Made in France" Handwritten number under label: "80-739"
Hat of soft white pique styled with elements of a pillbox and a sailor's cap. Circular conical crown stitched to create folds and valleys around top and upper part. White silk(?) band inside lower edge. Designer's label: "Agnes / 6 Rue St Florentin / Paris"
Turban style hat of black and pink striped satin with stuffed stand up pleated pouf in front. Lined in black net with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Designer's label: "Lilly Daché Paris / 78 East 58th St. New York"
Hat of black and bronze velvet. Based on a pillbox, the low, domed crown is of black velvet, with top finial of a crossed bronze velvet ribbon with trailing ribbons and a black curling feather with two long thin black feathers. The sides of the hat are composed of two horizontal bands of velvet, the upper of bronze color, the lower of black. The whole hat is overlaid by black net veiling with wide mesh. The unlined felt body has an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label: "Originals / by / Michael Terre / Southern California" Stamped inside: "Jacomet / Body made in France"
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