Suit of black ribbed fabric. (a) jacket with notched collar of sateen; center front welted button closure; pink buttons with gold snake; armhole princess seams; double darts from pocket to bust point; faux single welt pockets with gathers; long sleeves with curved half cuffs in pink sateen with button closure; armhole princess seams on back; pink lining; pleat at center back. (b) matching knee-length skirt; waistband; 1 front waist dart; 1 front princess seam; center back closure; waistline darts; black lining.
Daytime skirt suit of Prince of Wales check wool in gray with pink and brown check. The skirt suit consists of: A) Jacket, hip length, with full-length sleeves. Center front opening secured with hooks and eyes. 4 pockets at front, each with turned-back cuff pockets of silk brocade at breast level and below waist; the silk brocade of ecru background with pink and red flowers on green vines; asymmetric flared peplum at back featuring geometric cut; stand up collar is lined in matching silk brocade. B) Skirt of matching wool, straight and knee-length, with an 8” slit at center-back with inset of fan-like accordion pleated godet. C) Two matching pair of shoes, one pair of silk brocade matching the pocket flaps, and the other pair of gray wool matching the rest of the outfit. Both pair are heeled pumps designed with pointed toe, the heels are a modified spike. Lined in gold leather. The shoes are all stamped "Dal Co' / Roma".
Evening jacket of black net and gold embellishments. Collarless neckline has slight scalloped effect. Long sleeves and flared shape from waistline. Center front opening with zipper having a black tassel with 3 strands of covered globes. Constructed of layered netting with encased gold lame cut outs and leaf motifs of black lace, gold lace, beading, sequins and gold braid by Lesage. Designer's label at left side seam near armhole: "Pierre Balmain / Paris" Style number on back of designer's label: "172.377"
Dress and belt. The dress has an empire-length bodice of white organdy with short sleeves, deep V-neckline in front and shallow boat neckline in back and is densely beaded with large and small white beads. From the lower edge of the beaded bodice a band of blue silk satin with a printed pattern of different sizes of white polka dots extends down to dropped waist length, covering the midriff. The full skirt, of the same polka dot material, is above-the-knee length, and has box pleats which start from the dropped waist level. The dress has a zipper closure along the left side seam of the midriff section, and the closure continues up along the lower part of the empire bust line seam to the base of the V-neckline with a series of alternating covered snaps and hook-and-eyes. The bodice section is lined with white organdy, the midriff section with blue silk, and the skirt is unlined. Designer's label is sewn inside bodice near right armhole: "Givenchy" "Made in France", with a second label sewn underneath with handwritten notation "80932". The dress has an accompanying belt covered with matching blue fabric with printed polka dots and backed with black leather. The buckle is also covered with blue polka dot fabric. The belt has no labels or marks. Not shown in photo are matching high-heeled pumps by Rene Mancini, Pairs, and matching envelope clutch handbag also by Mancini. From Givenchy's Spring 1992 Collection.
Coat in trench style of burgundy satin with burgundy dyed fox fur trim on shawl collar and cuffs. Full-length; center front opening. Vertical side welt pockets. Lined in black silk. With tie belt of burgundy satin, 1 1/2" wide; top-stitched. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Fourrure / Givenchy"
Coat dress of black wool knit. Mid-calf length. Open, short collar with points trimmed with bullet-shaped silver metal accents; V-neckline. Long sleeves have seams sewn flat to form ridge along top of sleeve, with turned back cuffs forming "wings" trimmed with two shield-shaped metal studs. Slit up 6 inches from hem at center front seam. Center front zipper closure running from V of neckline almost to the top of the hem slit; two hooks & eyes at top of zipper. Applied panels of same material at sides with extending "flames". Back of bodice is gathered at waist with half-belt and black plastic buckle in stylized arrowhead shape. Unlined; shoulder pads. Label: "Thierry Mugler / Paris / Made in France" Size "42" tag at base of designer label. Evidence of removed label.
Gold patterned evening dress with jacket, shoes and clutch. A) Jacket: tailored, cropped shell in peacock eye, gold metallic brocade with red and mauve highlights. Jewel neckline with full-length set-in sleeves. The neckline and cuffs are embellished with wide bands of gold cord, gold beads and large gold, yellow and red rhinestones. Fully lined in gold silk. Shoulder pads. B) Dress: Fitted, slightly dropped waist, sleeveless bodice with scooped neckline and low plunging back. Centerback zipper closure with a single hook & eye at the neckline. Slightly dropped waistseam with full, gathered, pouf skirt. The skirt has an asymetrical hem falling from knee-level centerfront to mid-calf centerback. Sideseam hip-level pockets. The bodice piece lined with gold chiffon. Waist stay of gold silk. Bust pads. The skirt is self lined with a rolled and poufed hem. There is a large tuck in the skirt lining, possibly from an alteration. Label: "Givenchy / Made in France" C-D) Shoes: matching gold brocade, high heeled pumps. Tan leather soles. Gold leather lining with stamped label in instep. Label: "Rene Mancini / Paris / Fait Main" E) Clutch: matching gold brocade envelope clutch with magnetic clasp closure. Pleated accents on flap. Gold interior clips for chain. Ivory silk faille lining with patch pocket. Label: Rene Mancini. Paris.
Evening suit of black velvet. The ensemble consists of a jacket of black velvet with machine embroidered vine and floral motifs in black threads and black beads. The coat has a notched collar, long sleeves with wide cuffs and two non-functional buttons on each sleeve, and two non-functional pockets at front. Center-front opening with two circular black satin-covered buttons. The lapels, cuffs, and pocket flaps are all of black satin. The knee-length skirt of of the same fabric, with satin waistband. Short zipper closure at side with two hook-and-eyes in waistband. Designer's label inside jacket at collar: "Givenchy", with model number written on cloth tape sewn underneath label: "74075"
Pantsuit of black wool. A) Jacket. Bolero-style cropped jacket has wide collar with soft edges and center front opening with no closure. Cut-away at front and with long sleeves, the jacket has inner shoulder pads and is fully lined in black silk satin. B) Pants. Full-length, high-waisted, and with tapered legs, the pants have a satin waistband and inverted pleats at top of hips at front and back. Slit pockets at sides open along edge of a black satin stripe which runs length of leg at side. The pants have a side zipper and hook-and-eye closure. Designer's label: "Yves Saint Laurent / Rive Gauche" "Made in / France" "Paris"
Shirt dress of brown cotton. Knee-length, with v-neckline and shirt-style collar and lapels. Center front opening with square snaps. Two patch pockets at bust with box pleat at center of each; pockets extend to waist seam; elbow-length sleeves with 2” cuff, and inner shoulder pads; skirt with two patch pockets at each side with pleats as upper pockets; pockets extend to hem. Size 42 With matching belt of brown cotton backed with leather; covered rhombus buckle has one elongated angle; 34 ½” length. Designer's label: "Thierry Mugler / Activ" "Made in Italy"
Shirt dress of black rayon, cotton, and acrylic; vest of bodice is of a leather-like open-check fabric with two slanted patch pockets at bust with box pleat at center and lapels; shirt collar with open-square notched lapel and snap placket down center-front with snap covers of black squares; elbow-length sleeves; skirt with two patch pockets at each side with pleats below lapel; knee-length. Size 42 With matching belt of black cotton backed with leather; covered rhombus buckle has one elongated angle; 34 ½” length. Designer's label: "Thierry Mugler / Activ" "Made in Italy"
Suit of black and white wool tweed consisting of: Fitted jacket. Hip-length with fringed shawl collar. Single breasted and closes with 1 self-covered button with tailored buttonhole and 3 snaps at center front. Two angled faux flap pockets. Princess seams. Long, modified dolman sleeves with underarm gussets. Center back seam and double princess seams in back. Lined in ivory satin with embroidered "CD" on lower right in front. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Christian Dior / Boutique / Paris" Size, content, and care label below designer's label. Skirt. Knee-length with fringed hem, faced waistline and front and back darts. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Lined in ivory silk.
Skirt ensemble of royal blue polyester, cut on bias, consisting of: Jacket. Waisted jacket with 3/4 length sleeves, partly cut-away in front, fastened by 3 snaps, each covered with a plastic button, in graduated sizes (smallest at top). Asymmetrical collar; notched on left, shawl on right. Inset pocket on each side with curving top edge. Cuffs have "winged" turn-backs. Sleeves sewn to create edge along top of arm from cuffs to collar. Center back seamed same as sleeves. Lined in royal blue synthetic; shoulder pads. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Thierry Mugler / Paris / Made in France" Size "42" tag at base of designer label. Evidence of removed label. Straight skirt of matching material with 2" waistband. Just below knee-length, with closure at back consisting of 3 large hooks and loops with studs at front and 8" zipper. Vented kick opening at center back seam. Unlined. Designer's label at left back hip: "Thierry Mugler / Paris / Made in France"
Black "sunburst" evening dress with bustle. The fitted, full-length sheath is of black silk satin with black velvet "sunburst" motif repeated over the dress. The gown is strapless, with diagonally draped over-panels that meet at center front and form a large bow which tilts up to cover the left shoulder. There is a zipper closure along the left sideseam with hook-and-eye closure at neckline which is concealed by the bust panel, which is snapped to the dress and bow. The back waistline seam has a three-tiered ruffled bustle which has a snap at left side to accommodate the zipper. The skirt flares from knee to hemline. There is a boned black silk inner bodice with bust pads and bust and waist stays. The inner bodice has a zipper closure at left side, just inside the outer zipper. Designer's label inside garment, stitched over right side bone: "Givenchy / Made In / France". Photograph is from the exhibition Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers, held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows the gown as displayed with a hat by Balenciaga (Accession #: 1981.022.026).