UNT College of Visual Arts + Design - Browse
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Description: Calotte style hat covered in dark green/black feathers, overlaid with floral appliques of black beading. Lined in black satin, edged with a thin band of dark jersey material and with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label inside: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York". Label is large, extending almost from edge to edge across inside of crown.
Creator: Daché, Lilly
Description: Calotte of dark brown silk faille. Three touching bows of same around sides and front of crown with V point in back. Lined in net with brown grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Designer's label: "Martin Belasco / New York" Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus
Creator: Belasco, Martin
Description: Cap of dark navy blue velvet. Designed with a domed crown which slopes out to front to form a visor/brim, and extends down slightly further in back than front. Lined in dark blue satin, and with an inner hatband of dark blue velvet. Retailer's stamp on hatband, partly illegible: "Neiman Marcus Co. / New York Dallas " Size label: "ADJ."
Description: Cap of black velvet and feathers. Styled somewhat as a "newsboy cap", or a pillbox with a brim, the cylindrical black velvet crown bulges slightly at sides. At front, extending slightly to sides, is black visor of same velvet, angled downwards, edged with black grosgrain ribbon. The visor is covered with fan sprays of multicolored small feathers in browns, tans, and creams, with black edging. Centered with a black grosgrain ribbon bow. Crown is lined in multicolored brocade fabric with scrolling foliate and floral forms. Inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label at inside hatband: "Christine / Original" Received in a period hatbox labeled "Levy's".
Description: Cape coat of heavy rust mohair. Rounded collar. Center front opening with 5 large, round, marbled brown plastic buttons reinforced with hook & bar. Machine stitched button holes. Street length. Slit pockets at side seams. Lined in rust colored silk satin fabric. Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Cloche-style hat of off-white wool felt. The hat has a deep, cylindrical, domed crown of off-white or cream felt which extends downwards on one side. Around the crown is black zig-zag stitching, and on the side where the crown extends downwards is an applied strip of felt, looped, secured through a stiffened loop of red grosgrain ribbon. The hat is unlined, with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Sewn to inner ribbon band is maker's label: "Schiaparelli / Paris".
Creator: Schiaparelli, Elsa
Description: Cloche style hat of rust colored fur felt. Black velvet trim with self-covered button on left side of crown. Lower edge of inside crown trimmed with black velvet. Unlined with black grosgrain headband. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "The Halle Bros. Co." Inside crown stamped: "Musketeer / Imported Body / Made in Austria" Size tag on inside hatband: "22"
Description: Cloche-style hat of blue/gray feathers. The crown of the hat is made of dark blue mesh overlaid with a mosaic of blue/gray feathers. Brimless, the lower edge of the crown arcs upwards at front and slightly in back. The hat is lined in the mesh, and has an inner hatband at the lower inside edge of the crown. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Made In / France", "Christian Dior / Paris"
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Modified cloche hat of dark blue velour. The oval body of the cloche is designed to be worn cross-wise on head, with one side dipping lower than the other. The sides are decorated with star motifs in dark blue sequins, beads and velvet circlets. Unlined, with inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon and edged with a dark purple(?) band. Designer's and Retailer's combined label: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Original / Expressly for / Neiman-Marcus" Stamp on inside crown illegible.
Creator: Carnegie, Hattie
Description: Coat dress of black silk taffeta jacquard-woven with supplemental pile design in the weft. Black buttons down front. Flaring skirt. A) Coat dress of black silk taffeta with off-white fuzzy woven-in polka dots. Calf-length(? - depends on petticoats), with a small modified "Peter Pan" turn-down collar, which has attached front bias bands to tie into bow at front of collar. 3/4-length set-in sleeves. Center front opening with 16 black circular plastic buttons, hidden snaps at waist and throat, and hook-and-eye at waist. Full, flaring skirt with 13 gores. Unlined. Combined Designer's/Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" B) Belt of matching fabric, backed with black leather. Narrow, with rectangular buckle covered in same fabric. Stamped on reverse: "30+"
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Cocktail dress of black silk faille and white lawn with black embroidered scallops. Wide boat neckline, short sleeves, natural waistline, princess seaming. Heavy black faille overskirt pleated into waist, cut higher at front to show underskirt of white lawn. Underskirt has horizontal bands of triple lines of scallops, scalloped lower edge of underskirt. Built in hoop understructure with petersham belt and four steel (?) internal hoops. Overlay with petticoat of white cotton with wide horsehair band at hem. Center back zipper.
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Cocktail dress of red rose and green leaf print cotton. Princess style with flaring full skirt. Sleeveless; bodice with scoop neckline and low cut V in back. Knee length. Bodice draped with flower appliques of same fabric. Center back zipper. Lined in white organdy. Designer's label at seam: "Patullo-Jo Copeland" Retailer's label to right of designer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" With accompanying petticoat of nylon, nylon net and outer flounce of white organdy with red rose appliques.
Creator: Copeland, Jo
Description: Cocktail dress of large plaid orange, green, purple, and red raw and china silk. The dress is sleeveless, ankle-length, with red/orange raw silk halter-top bodice, "shawl" of same which is attached at mid-back and drapes over shoulders and across front. Lined in pale green. Skirt of dress is of silk, with large, plaid squares of reds, oranges, greens, and purples. Attached cummerbund style belt which buttons in back with 5 self-covered buttons and loops. Center back zipper Lined in light gold organza. Combined designer's/retailer's label at left side seam of lining near hem: "Gump's / San Francisco / Gibson Bayh / Original" Accompanying petticoat formed of three full-length layers of red, purple, and green silk. Each layer with hem band of grosgrain ribbon in a different color, and each with deep net ruffle at hem, also edged with grosgrain ribbon. Center back zipper with two hook & eyes on 1" waistband. Combined designer's/retailer's label at center back waistband: "Gump's / San Francisco / Gibson Bayh / Original"
Creator: Bayh, Frederick Gibson
Description: Cocktail dress of orange silk chiffon with scoop neckline and short, raglan sleeves with gathers and underarm gussets. Neckline and center top sleeves embellished with matching silk satin ribbon. Ribbon bow at center front hides zipper closure. Skirt of multilayer chiffon creates a full A-line. Knee-length; natural waist. Designer's label at right waistline: "Galanos" Retailer's label to right of designer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" With accompanying contour belt of leather and silk. Thin belt is covered in orange satin to match dress.
Creator: Galanos, James
Description: Day dress of printed cotton, brown on white, with black "spots" in a very tiny geometric pattern. Just below knee length. Double collar and cuffs with white cotton(?) button-in, detachable panels. Short sleeves, pleated into hems. V-neckline below collar, which has lower placket opening with three circular black buttons and bound buttonholes, and one hook-and-loop at waist, inner petersham with hooks and eyes, and series of 4 hidden snaps at center front of skirt. Natural waist, into which bodice and skirt are pleated. Full skirt. Lined in ivory organza/organdy. Designer's label at inside left seam of skirt: "Mollie Parnis / New York" Union label near designer's label. Size label at inside of skirt opening: "Size 10" With accompanying belt of black patent leather; 2" wide with square buckle.
Creator: Parnis, Mollie
Description: Day dress of gray and yellow windowpane plaid cotton. Street length with short sleeves. Short collar. Faux placket runs down the center front of the bodice with bow at top and line of 5 non-functional white buttons. Full skirt is pleated and gathers at natural waist. At each side, slightly behind hip, are two slit pockets with side "flaps". Center back zipper closure, and grosgrain ribbon petersham with hook-and-eye closure. Unlined. Designer's label inside at left side seam: "Galanos / Originals / Beverly Hills" Retailer's label inside skirt at front: "Neiman-Marcus".
Creator: Galanos, James
Description: Daytime dress of printed cotton lawn. Street-length of white cotton lawn is printed with stripes of grays and coral is sleeveless, with wide straps and V-neckline in front and back. The bodice is cut so that stripes are diagonal, meeting at center front and back and emphasizing the V-neckline. The narrow waist is slightly dropped, and is defined by a wide set-in decorative belt of the same fabric, with stripes running horizontally, with fabric-wrapped rectangular buckle and ends. The full skirt has stripes running vertically, and is gathered at the waist/bottom of the belt. There is one underskirt of cream faille, and a second of stiff cream netting. The center-back zipper closure extends from single hook-and-eye at neckline to base of belt. Bodice is partly lined with cream faille and has internal boning. There is a white grosgrain ribbon inner waistband with hook-and-eye closures. Designer's label is sewn inside dress, to bodice lining at left side: "Adele Simpson". This dress was a gift of the designer Adele Simpson and her husband Wesley Simpson to the Dallas Museum of Fashion, which later became the Texas Fashion Collection.
Creator: Simpson, Adele
Description: Dress of black wool with black leather trim. The street-length dress has a standup collar trimmed in snaps. Front opening is leather trimmed and has 5 self-covered snaps. Detachable front skirt panel is edged along top with black leather trim and secured with 5 self-covered snaps. Bracelet length sleeves trimmed with snaps at cuff. Back zipper. Fully lined in black satin. Handwritten label on inside back seam: "Pierre Balmain Fall 1955"
Creator: Balmain, Pierre
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