Pillbox hat of off-white straw and dark taupe twill trim. The short, cylindrical crown is woven of wide off-white straw, edged with a wide band of twill ribbon of dark taupe. Inside crown is inner hatband of brown grosgrain ribbon. Attached to the inner band are two small plastic combs to secure hat to wearer's head. No labels in item. Accompanied by a short hatpin with brown wood(?) head.
Hat of black straw. Styled as a pillbox, the low crown is cylindrical with a flattened top. The crown sits within a second "layer" of crown, which curves under and forms an inner ring which sits on the head, leaving the outer edge of the crown somewhat cantilevered. At the front of the hat, between the outer and inner edges of the crown, is a bow of the same black straw. The hat is lined in black fabric, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon at inside base of inner crown. A small white bow is affixed to the inner hatband to indicate the front of the hat. Designer's label sewn inside crown: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York / Young Modes"
Pumps of deep brown alligator leather. The shoes are designed with pointed toes, rounded at tips. The high, modified French heels taper from top to bottom, flaring slightly at base. Designer's stamp in both shoes: "Design par / Evins ... à Paris" Handwritten maker's notation in each: "FR 131A / 7AA" Handwritten notation: "#41821"
Dress of heavy beige wool tweed in the form of a modified cape. A) Dress inspired by Norell's capes. Mid-length, with rounded, jewel neckline. Slit openings for arms. Two large patch pockets at front. Center back closure with 5 large circular self-covered buttons, bound buttonholes, and two hidden snaps at collar. Opening stops 14" from lower hem. Lined with beige silk crepe. B) Slip of beige silk crepe. Mid-length. Wide shoulder straps with square neckline. Center back zipper closure with hook & eye. Combined designer's/retailer's label sewn inside at back near hem, above split: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell".
Coat of black, purple and white shepherd's check wool. Single breasted with 3 large, circular plastic buttons with bound buttonholes. Bias cut collar with 2" stand at center back. Front and back yokes. Long sleeve with matching, single buttoned cuff with bound buttonhole. Two patch pockets. Lined in black silk. Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"
Coat of leopard(?) and mink. Below-knee length coat of leopard fur, with long sleeves. The shawl collar, center front opening, lower hem, and cuffs of the sleeves are edged with black mink. Two slit pockets at front hips. Fully lined in dark cream silk(?) brocade with gold pattern similar to an Indian sari. Embroidered monogram at inside right: "MER". Designer's label at inside back collar: "Ben Kahn"
Cocktail dress with black, cotton knit bodice and full, chocolate brown silk faille skirt. Bodice has long sleeves with zippered wrists. Center back zipper closure with hook & eye. Stand up, mandarin collar. Bodice forms V at center front, gathered waist. Lined in black organdy with built in petticoats of black tulle. Six inch wide black grosgrain petersham at inner waist with 5 large hook & eyes. Combined designer/retailer label on inside seam of skirt towards hem: "Norman Norell for Neiman-Marcus"
a) Day dress of gray silk douppoini. Straight silhouette that falls loose in back. Elbow length set-in sleeves. Jewel neckline with placket that runs around neckline and down center front opening with 4 self covered buttons and bound buttonholes supplemented with a snap at the neckline. Street length. Back lined in gray silk. b) Slide belt of white crushed leather with oval buckle covered in self. Belt fits into slits at side seams of dress so that back hangs loose and is belted across front.
Day dress of rose floral print silk shantung with dropped waist and gathered skirt. Cherry printed trim at neckline, sleeves, and dropped waistline. Cherry trim at dropped waist ties in bow. Bateau neckline. Short kimono style sleeves in yolk. Center back buttoned closure with five self fabric covered round buttons. Dropped skirt lined in cream silk. Size 12. Combined retailer and designer label: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina Norell".
Day dress of black silk shantung with white polka dots. Scoop neckline; short sleeves with inverted pleats at padded shoulders. High, pleated waist falls to full, knee length skirt. Attached 3" belt of same closes in back with 4 hook & eyes and is trimmed at front with two large circular black buttons and bound buttonholes. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Lined in black silk shantung with built-in petticoat of white tulle. Designer's label: "Galanos" Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus"
A) Daytime sheath-style dress of natural silk with bateau neckline. Sleeveless. Fly opening at center back neckline with two large abalone buttons with bound buttonholes reinforced with snaps. Two large patch pockets placed low on hips which wrap around side seams from front to back. Knee length. Fitting darts at bust. Lined in natural colored silk. Combined retailer and designer label: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" B) Matching 4 inch wide belt of self fabric. False closure on front right trimmed with two large abalone buttons. Closure at front left with two matching buttons. Bound buttonholes.
Monastic Dress of red and black floral printed cotton. The dress is street-length, with natural shoulders, long sleeves and a high scoop neckline. At the waist is a black leather belt which passes through the garment at the sides, allowing the sides of the dress to be loose and flowing. The belt has a snap closure, and is designed to look "tied" at front. Also referred to as a Trapeze dress. Dress has two labels sewn inside at back of collar. Designer's label: "Claire McCardell Clothes / by Townley" and Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" Belt has stamped in white on the back: "10 Claire McCardell 608" From the original Carrie Marcus Neiman Foundation collection assembled by Stanley and Edward Marcus.
Dress in sheath style of navy blue linen. Neckline is high and straight in front with wide, scooped back with 3/4" shoulder straps. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Lined in navy organdy. Designer's label at center back seam near hem: "Christian Dior - New York, Inc." Retailer's label at center back seam near hem: "Neiman-Marcus" With accompanying stole, double sided with one side of matching navy linen and reverse of green linen. Open ends; 16" wide.
Dress in shirtwaist style of black and white vertical striped velvet with black patent leather belt (missing). Long, set-in sleeves with zippered ends. Large, Puritan collar and cuffs of white, stiffened organdy. Calf length. Center front opening with eight 3/4" circular, black plastic buttons with bound buttonholes and snap at neckline. Bow of self at collar. Unlined. Combined designer/retailer label on left inside seam near hem: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"
Dress of muted pink silk organza over a layer of beige taffeta with ivory Schiffli lace embroidery in a floral motif; bodice is strapless with horizontal pleating below bust and top portion is trimmed with self-embroidered lace and lattice, and has scalloped, embroidered trim at neckline; boning within; full, wide skirt is gathered into waistline and falls to below knee-length; layers of stiffened tulle support the wide silhouette; bottom of skirt is embellished with self-embroidered lace and lattice with vines of flowers trailing up to the mid-skirt; hem has scalloped, embroidered trim; left side-zip closure.
Ensemble consisting of a charcoal gray wool tweed coat dress and skirt. A) Street dress of charcoal gray wool tweed. Center front opening with eight large, circular, black plastic buttons and bound buttonholes. Three quarter raglan sleeves. Turndown collar. Yoked shoulders slightly gathered in back. Below knee length. Lined in black silk faille. Retailer's label at inside back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus" B) Skirt with waist panel of black silk and lower panel of charcoal gray wool tweed. Skirt is slightly gathered where waist panel meets lower panel. Overall effect is of a straight skirt. Center back opening with two hook & eyes on waistband as closure. Lower portion of skirt is lined in same black silk as waist panel. Retailer's label on inside center back seam of lining: "Neiman-Marcus"
Ensemble of a dark grey wool mohair consisting of: A) Jacket in boxed style. Single breasted with three large, circular, horn buttons and bound buttonholes; notched collar. Bracelet length, set-in sleeves. Lined in dark gray silk. Designer's label at inside center back neckline: "Made in France / Boutique / Christian Dior / Paris " and stamped on label: "10118" B) Dress. Sleeveless, with shallow, wide rounded neckline. Natural waist with an A-line over skirt and with under skirt of dark gray silk and 7" hemline of matching wool creating a tiered or multi-layer look. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Skirt lined in dark gray silk and bodice lined in black organza with black grosgrain ribbon petersham and black silk noil support structure.
Short cocktail or informal dinner ensemble of green silk brocade with woven design in tiny gray/blue floral pattern. The fitted short jacket has a natural waistline slightly gathered at front, princess seams front and back, and cap sleeves. V-back, with open throat neck-line. Round collar trimmed with brown mink fur. 3/4 length dolman sleeves, 5 self-covered buttons at center front. Green faille lining. No labels in jacket. The dress of the same fabric is mid-calf length, and has a square neckline with small V cut in front and tucks at corners of square, back neckline V that matches front V. Short cap sleeves with underarm rectangular gusset. Three small pleats at left and right of natural waistline. Center back zipper with hook and eye closure. Lined as jacket. Retailer's label at left inside seam inside skirt: "Neiman-Marcus" Retailer's label that acts as "modesty weight" at center front inside of neckline, 4 inches long: "Neiman Marcus" The dress has a belt covered in same fabric, lined with leather.
Ensemble consisting of: A) Jacket of black and white gingham cotton check. Bracelet length sleeves. Side front opening with 7" button extension. On left side front, there are two large circular black plastic buttons at waist and one at top button at neckline flap closure; bound buttonholes. Peter pan collar starts at piping edge of left side front and right side front. Two flap welt pockets. Back with inverted box pleat which starts open at neckline and goes to 2" above waist where it is stitched together. Side back shoulders have flanges which are basted down at bottom. Collar's, pockets', cuffs', front to back flanges hemline's and front opening's edges all bound in black satin bias tape. Lined in smaller cotton gingham check. Designer's label at inside center back neckline: "Galanos" B) Blouse of black and white, small gingham check. Center front opening with 2 (+ 1 missing) black circular plastic buttons supplemented with snaps and hook & eyes. Fitted, flared waist . Sleeveless. Collarless, slightly scooped neckline which forms a V in back. Neckline, sleeve openings and center front opening trimmed in black satin. Lined in fine white net. Designer's label on inside left seam: "Galanos" C) A-line skirt, street length, in black and white gingham cotton. Narrow waist of black grosgrain. Left side zipper. Lined in cream colored silk. d) Contour belt covered in black and white gingham check. Square buckle covered in same. Three holes. Back in light tan leather. Stamped: "Galanos Originals / Beverly Hills" e) Hat of quilted black and white gingham check. Black satin headband ties in knot on right. Crown in smaller check than brim. Brim piped in black satin and slits at right beneath headband knot. Lined in alternating triangular sections of large and small gingham check. Designer's label on inside hatband: ...
Evening dress of black and white satin. Long torso fitted top. Sleeveless, with wide boat neck of black satin. Zipper down the back. Full harem skirt of black, white, and grey striped and dotted silk with one large black satin bow at hip line and another bow of same at the hem of the short, "balloon" style skirt. Designer's label at left inside seam: "Boutique / Christian Dior / Paris" and "Made in France".
Evening ensemble consisting of gold brocade evening gown trimmed in white mink with matching coat and detachable train. A) Evening coat of gold brocade. Ballerina length with short, dolman sleeves. Banded neckline. Center front opening is cutaway in front below waist and tapers to hem. Lined in gold metallic organdy. B) Evening dress of gold brocade with white mink fur trim at the neckline and hips. Full length with princess seaming and slight A-line to skirt. Scooped back. Fur trim around neckline and back goes over shoulders to form straps of dress. Center back zipper. Belt of fur at hips closes in back the 3 covered hook & eyes. Skirt lined in white tulle. Bodice is boned and lined in white netting and closes in back with hook & eyes. Designer's Label: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris" Model label behind designer's label: "74184" C) Detachable train of gold brocade. Train is rectangular in shape and gathers into smocking where it attaches to back of dress with snaps and hook & eyes. Floor length. Unlined.
a) Gown of pale pink tulle heavily hand embroidered in pink flowers with silver metallic thread, sequins and rhinestones. Strapless with full-length, A-line skirt. Underskirt of ivory stiffened silk and lined in ivory silk. b) Scarf of matching pale pink tulle. c) Original pink satin ribbon sash/belt d) Replacement modern pink satin ribbon sash/belt
Hat of black wool felt. Formed as a high-crowned hat with floppy brim, the domed crown has concave sides held in part by wide black silk satin ribbon with bow and trailing ends at back. Brim is wired and irregularly undulating at rim and is trimmed with black felted wool ribbon. Inside lined with black satin, with inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Small stitched mark on inner band indicates front of hat, and small applied cream ribbon bow indicates back. Designer's label inside crown: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York". The label is very large, and part of "Paris" and all of "York" are cut-off.
Hat of gray woven straw. Hat styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot") with wide woven bands of dark and light gray straw forming an illusion of massed dark gray flowers with scattered light gray blossoms. Constructed as an open center ring, the crown is domed, with a wavy lower edge along front and beginning of sides. Front of hat is overlaid with grey net veil with three small gray ribbon bows along upper edge. Accompanied by a single grey-headed hatpin.
Cocktail dress of brocade with a pattern of pink flowers with green leaves on an ivory background and pale gold metallic thread. The surface of the dress is embellished with swags of silvered/clear beads and scattered amber sequins. The dress is sleeveless, with boat neck in front and deep rounded neck in back. Center back zipper closure with hook & eye. Attached corded belt of self at natural waistline with bow to left of center. Bodice of dress is lined in off-white organza and skirt of dress is lined in pale sage green silk with off-white grosgrain ribbon inner waistband.
Cocktail dress of avocado green silk chiffon. Knee-length. Bodice has wide V-neckline and closure of three rows of double satin covered buttons with bound buttonholes, reinforced at neckline with a snap and at the waist with three hook & eyes. Silk satin pipe trim along bodice and center front closure. Short sleeves with 2" webbed satin cuffs and underarm gussets. Three-layered silk chiffon skirt is gathered at natural waist creating a full silhouette and is lined in matching taffeta. Skirt has center front zippered opening from waist. Bodice lined in mousseline de soie with green grosgrain ribbon petersham and hook & eye. Designer's label sewn inside skirt on petersham: "Galanos" Accompanying belt of webbed matching satin; 2-1/2" wide. Buttons onto waist at center-front with double buttons and closes at center back with three hook & eyes.
Day dress of blue gray and navy herringbone silk. A) Day dress of blue gray and navy herringbone silk. Shift style. Mid-length with rounded, Peter Pan collar. Bracelet length, dolman sleeves. Center front opening extending from neckline to hips, with 3 self-covered buttons above waist and a zipper with hook & eye. Two large patch pockets at hips. Unlined. Combined retailer/designer label at left side seam of skirt: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell B) Tie/scarf of same fabric. One end wider than other, finishing in triangles. Narrow at center.
Day dress in sheath style of turquoise blue wool knit. Knee-length, with short sleeves and banded collar. Diagonal, 2" welt pockets at side hips. Center back opening of 7 circular turquoise plastic buttons with bound buttonholes, two snaps at neckline, and two hook & eyes on collar. Lined in white synthetic. Designer's label at back neckline: "Modèle / Guy Laroche / Paris / Diffusé Par Maria Carine / Made in France" Handwritten style number label below designer label: "LR E6531 Rapp(?) 8" Retailer's(?) label at right side seam is cut: "i.m. / Made in France"
A) Sheath style dress of navy silk with seam line at natural waist. Slightly gathered at sides of waist and tapering to a narrow skirt. Short kimono sleeve with gusset at underarm. Hem of sleeves are coming undone. Jewel neckline. Button closure at center back with six navy plastic buttons. Unlined. Size 12. B) Three inch wide belt of self fabric with self fabric buckle. Belt sits above waistline. Designer label: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina Norell".
Dress of light weight black wool crepe in shift style. High round neck; sleeveless. Street length. Center front opening to hem with 8 large round buttons of heavy silk threads. Slight fullness achieved by gathering from shoulder yoke. Unlined except at yoke. Combined designer/retailer label at center back seam near hem: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"
Street ensemble consisting of a navy blue wool coat and a dress. A) Coat of navy whipcord wool. Single breasted with 6 circular black plastic buttons and bound buttonholes. Long, set-in sleeves. Street length. Peter Pan collar of black sheepskin. High rise waistline. Lined in black silk. Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" B) Dress with black crepe back satin bodice and navy whipcord wool straight cut skirt. Long, narrow cut, set-in sleeves with zippered cuffs. Wide jewel neckline. Street length. Empire waist with slight gathering and 1/2" band at base of bodice. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Petersham at waistline of 3/4" black grosgrain ribbon with hook & eye closure. Unlined.
Charcoal gray wool two-piece suit. (a) Jacket: Fitted jacket of gray diamond twill wool; V-neckline with notched collar and peaked lapels; full-length, two piece, set in sleeves; lapped center front opening with two round, black, plastic buttons and bound buttonholes with snaps between buttons; fronts have shoulder and waist darts; two pairs of faux pocket flaps with buttons on fronts at bust and hip; back has low-slung, self fabric belt buttoned on above two faux vents at hem; fully lined in gray silk. (b) Skirt: Matching princess line, knee length skirt with narrow rolled waistband; straight hip yoke all around; inverted box pleat falls from yoke at center back; offset left side back zipper closure supplemented by one hook&eye closure on waistband; hem is faced with gray silk; fully lined in gray silk.
Calotte hat of brown velvet. One hatpin with black, avocado shaped head. Brim and top center seam meet to form V-shaped opening. Designer's label on inside hat band: "Balenciaga Hats . Paris" Retailer's label beneath designer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Salon"
Natural straw cartwheel or picture hat. The wide, slightly floppy, brim slopes up to the low circular domed crown. Around the crown is a black silk scarf attached in three places with black bows, with trailing section off of the back of the brim.
Child's dress of blue cotton slipper satin with striped skirt. A) Dress. Bodice with rounded neckline and peter pan collar, short sleeves, "cropped" horizontal band with four large circular mother-of-pearl buttons. From this band down, skirt is of vertical blue and white stripes. Unlined. Manufacturer's label inside at neck: "Youngland" Paper label affixed to manufacturer's label noting Skillman show, etc. B) Belt. Narrow belt with matching blue fabric on exterior, pale lilac fabric on interior. Blue fabric covered buckle. Stamped on back :"Wiss" and instructions.
A) Child's dress of blue cotton slipper satin with striped skirt. Bodice with rounded neckline, almost sleeveless with turned-back "cuffs". Blue band waistband into which vertically striped blue and white is gathered. Center-back opening with four circular buttons. Waistband ties at back. Maker's label inside collar: "Youngland" b) Matching cap of solid blue, "baby bonnet" style with long ties for under chin. Lined in off-white/cream. No labels in cap.
Child's sundress of horizontally striped blue, brown, and white cotton delusted satin. Rounded neckline, higher in front than back; sleeveless. Neckline and armholes piped in matching blue fabric. Left side closure with 5 buttons. Full skirt, gathered at waistline with blue piping. Tie belt of same fabric attached at sides and ties in back. Upper bodice lined of cream colored muslin. Maker's label at inside back neck: "Kate / Greenaway / Frock" Paper size tag behind maker's tag. Original Hope Skillman paper tag attached, with hand-written note identifying designer Joan Ballew.
Coat of natural beige mohair wool. Below-knee length, with modified cape collar with rounded ends. Loose, unfitted lines. Single breasted, with three button closure at neckline and bound buttonholes. Sleeves are 3/4 length, large and intricately cut in an adaptation of the leg-o-mutton style with pleating at shoulder, and have pleat-form at wrist to create calla lily effect . Double welt angled side pockets. Lined in black jersey wool. Designer's label at center back neckline: "E Garnett / Italian Made / Imported Original"
Coat of golden seal fur with mink collar. Hip-length "Stroller" coat has long sleeves and center-front opening with three large circular simulated wood buttons. Large patch pockets. Collar of black mink. Retailer's label inside back collar: "Neusteters" Fur Authority Label inside right pocket.
Coat dress of white textured silk; fitted back and loose draped front ending over left bust line with long flange to hem. Designer's Label at inside center back below collar " Printemps - Ete 1956 / Christian Dior / Paris / Made in France" and stamped on label: "789[(?) last number is illegible]"
Cocktail dress of yellow lace and organza. The strapless, knee-length dress is of yellow inlay Spanish lace, with a slim line skirt that gathers at empire waist. It has a center back zipper with hook & eye closure at top. The bodice has a built-in corset-like support of boning and white net with white grosgrain ribbon waist band, the whole securing at back with 8 hook & eye closures. Lined in yellow silk. A removable, wide band of pleated yellow organza with tapered ends embellished with matching lace appliqués attaches with hooks and eyes at the waist of the dress, giving the effect of a narrow stole. The dress also has an accompanying very large matching yellow organza stole/wrap with matching lace appliqués at each end.
Daytime ensemble consisting of coat and dress with belt. Coat is of red bouclé wool. Long, dolman sleeves. Knee length. Band collar is covered in navy velvet on the exterior. Double welt side pockets on the diagonal. Lined in same douppioni silk print as dress. Designer's label at center back neckline: "E Garnett / Made In Italy / Imported Original" The one-piece day dress is of blue/gray douppioni silk with abstract print of lines in red, black, tan and yellow. Bias cut. Sleeveless with capped shoulders. Knee length. Collarless with V- shaped neckline formed by wrapped draping. Gathered draping to left side zipper closure. Wrap around skirt which drapes to large bow of self at left just below hip. Unlined with 1" blue/gray grosgrain ribbon petersham with 2 hook & eyes. Designer's label at center back neckline: "E Garnett / Made In Italy / Imported Original" The dress has an accompanying contour belt covered in matching fabric; 1" wide. Buckle also covered in same fabric.
Tubular dress of red textured, homespun wool with princess style seams. Tea length. Rounded, jewel neckline. Three-quarter length raglan sleeves with gussets at under arm. Two large patch pockets placed low on hips wrap around side seams. Center front closure with seven red plastic round buttons and bound buttonholes; reinforced at neckline with a snap. Upper portion of dress lined in ivory silk crepe. Retailer label at left inside seam near hem: "Neiman-Marcus"
A) Daytime dress of oyster white linen designed as a "Sailor Dress". Straight silhouette and short sleeves. Blue "sailor collar" trimmed with two bands of white linen. Sleeves are likewise edged in a wide blue band with two white linen stripes. Red silk faille tie fastened with hook & eye closure in back. Street-length skirt has two patch pockets at front. Three darts at front sides and two at back sides. Zipper closure at left side. Unlined with petersham of oyster grosgrain ribbon with hook-and-eye closure. Designer's label at bottom left side seam at hem: "Traina-Norell / New York" B) Narrow navy blue belt backed in leather. Simulated patent leather (?) facing. Illegible marks on back.
Ensemble of navy ribbed silk. A) Blouse in New Look style with V-shaped neckline and 1" collar. Elbow length sleeves with 1" folded cuffs. Center front opening with hook & eye closure. Patch pockets at side hips. Unlined; petersham of black grosgrain ribbon with hook & eye. Designer's label at left side seam: "Christian Dior Original / Made In U.S.A. / Christian Dior-New York Inc." B) Skirt of matching silk. Street length, A lined with pleats at 1" waistband. Center back zipper. Unlined.
Ensemble consisting of green leather jacket and green and black striped knit dress with green leather belt. The sheath-style street-length dress is of wool jersey with a knitted pattern of horizontal green and black stripes. It has very short sleeves and a wide boat neckline, and is unlined. The dress has an accompanying green leather belt that ends in fringe. The street-length coat is of matching green leather, with long sleeves and tuxedo collar that extends to lower hem. The center-front opening has no closures, and there is a welt pocket at each side seam. The coat is lined in the same fabric the dress is made from, and faces the tuxedo collar and opening. There are no designer labels in the garments, and the coat has retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Trophy Room".
Ensemble of printed silk. This cocktail or dinner ensemble in the "New Look" consists of a dress and bolero-style jacket of printed floral ikat silk with a black ground and floral design in gray, browns and dark brown/mauve shades. A) The dress is mid-calf-length, sleeveless, and with a boat neckline. Tailored to fit, with side bust and waist darts. Self fabric bow at top of waist gore which releases into a box pleat at the skirt. Slightly dropped waist. Under the sides of front box pleat edges are two knife pleats to create fullness, with darts for slimmer waist. On either side of front bock pleat is a small 1"intake pleat to balance fullness of skirt. Side seams have a lapping box pleat and an small triangular insert from front side seams. Back waist has 4 sets of box pleats, two on either side of center back zipper closure. The dress has built-in under-structure consisting of inner half-slip of off-white satin, and three layers of stiffened netting petticoats, all with horsehair braid at hem. B) The matching jacket is of the same cloth, cropped short in the bolero style. The center-front opening has no closures and is collarless. Raglan style sleeves are tea elbow length. Under sleeve and sleeve cuff is slightly ruched creating a faux cuff look. It is fully lined in a brown silk organza. 4-way underarm gusset. Sewn into the hem are French weights. There is no label in the dress. The jacket has a single designer's label: "Printemps-Ete 1956 / Christian Dior / Paris" which has stamped on it "80615". The "1956" appears embossed, not printed, and the black backing of the label is cut away behind the "1956".
Red leaf hat. Rounded conical hat of netting partly covered with red and pink silk leaves. Inside the hat, which has aspects of both a cloche and a toque, at the base of the crown, is a band of red grosgrain ribbon. Sewn into the ribbon band is designer's label: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris".
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