Evening ensemble of golden olive green lightweight wool twill: A) Short jacket. No collar, center front opening with 4 hook-and-loop closures. Back has section of bloused fabric giving the effect of a faux hood hanging back. Wide bands of decoration on front, yoke, and on faux "hood" of back, in the form of golden vines of gold braid and leaves and flowers of gold and pearl beads. Fully lined in olive silk crepe. Label at center back inside neckline: "Milgrim". B) Full length evening dress of matching fabric. Sleeveless, wide straps. Moderate neckline with "bow" effect at front. Just below knot of bow is accent of brown mink. Slight train to back of skirt. Side zipper closure. Fully lined in green silk crepe matching jacket. Label inside skirt: "Milgrim" C) Muff of matching fabric. Large trapezoidal shaped muff, the front with two large tiers of mink tails and a large bow with floral pattern in tiny white seed beads accented in gold beads and with scrolling gold embroidery. Zipper compartment on back. Label inside pocket: "This Article / 10 Year Guarantee" "Berlou / Moth / Proofed"
Glengarry style cap of Scottish tartan wool plaid in green/black/blue and white stripes. Tricolored cockade trim on right side. Designer's label on inside hat band: "Madame Suzy / 5, Rue de la Paix / Paris" Label above designer's label: "Made in France"
Hat of black felt. "Pancake" style hat with low, domed crown of black felt slightly "puffed out" at top. Around base of crown is tied ribbon made of white Birdseye pique, with self bow at each side. Hat has wide circular black felt brim, set slightly off-center to back around crown. Inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Black felt back strap lined with black grosgrain ribbon secure hat to wearer's head. Labels: Retailer's label on inside band: "Carson Pirie Scott & Co. / Chicago" Additional label sewn partly behind retailer's label: "57 31"
Alpine style hat in wine felt with green stitching and crease across center of crown. Wide grosgrain ribbon trim around base of crown of same color as top-stitching. Red feather on one side. Designer's label: "Rose Descat / 22.Rue Royale" Tag in hat: "Made in France"
High standing beret of navy felt fabric. Asymmetric shape. Hatband of purple stain ties at knot in back with frayed ends. Designer's label: "Madame Luzy / 5, Rue de la Paix / Paris" Label attached to top of designer's label: "Made in France"
Pillbox like hat of burnt sienna colored velvet. Standing brim and self bow. Top knot of self as trim. Crown close fitting like a calotte. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label on inside hatband: " Erik Braagaard / Paris / 8 rue St. Florentin" Label attached to top of designer's label: "Made in France" Model label under designer's label (partly illegible): "00 314"
Tricorne of light green straw, black and orange velvet. The hat is designed as a traditional tricorne, or "three-cornered-hat", with a low cylindrical crown of green straw, slightly domed. The wide brim of green straw curls up on three sides, and has cut-back arches at corners. The underside/facing of the brim is lined with black velvet, and edged with a thin band of orange velvet, which is tied in a bow at center top edge of one side. Crown is unlined, but has inner hatband of a striped/plaid fabric. Designer's label inside: "Original / Ruby Ross / California"
Turban style hat of royal blue, corded velvet. Cords are twisted and braided over all of hat. Grosgrain hatband with silk lining (deteriorated). Designer's label: "Mme Marie-Alphonsine Modes / 73 . Champs Elysees Paris" Label below designer's label: "Made in France"
Evening gown of black crepe with maroon sequin trim. Full-length. Bodice of thin net covered with swirling pattern of magenta purple sequins. Rounded neckline. Short sleeves with shoulder pads. Empire waist has set-in waistband with added butterfly-shaped panel below set-in panel on front. Flared skirt, bias-cut. Left side opening (closure missing); bodice has center front opening with 5 snaps and hook & eye at neckline. Unlined. Designer's label at inside waist: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris" "Made in Paris" label sewn below designer's label.
Sailor hat with small shallow crown and wired frame covered in red and blue wool plaid. Blue grosgrain ribbon trims crown. Designer's label: "Madame Suzy / 5, Rue de la Paix / Paris" Label above designer's label: "Made in France" Model tag on reverse of designer's label: "3407"
Beret of navy felt with 2 burnt orange grosgrain ribbon trims on back and one in front attached to brim. Elastic band for securing hat to wearers head. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Agnes / 83 Faubourg St Honore 83 / Angle Avenue Matignon" Label attached to designer's label: "Made in France" Model number tag attached to back of designer's label: "24806"
Slouch type hat and matching ascot. a) Slouch style hat of gold lame with butterfly print in blues and reds. Large bow of self at front base of crown and smaller bow of self at base of crown in back. Asymmetrical brim, wider in front. Lined in black felt. Designer's label: "Paris New York / J. Suzanne Talbot / 8. Avenue Matignon" b) Ascot of matching gold lame with butterfly print in blues and reds. Designer's label: "Paris New York / J. Suzanne Talbot / 8. Avenue Matignon" Model number tag to right of designer's label (illegible): "38-5(?)"
Hat of black felt with slightly tilted crown. Asymmetrical brim folds up and is wider in the front and narrows to the back. Hatband of wide, black grosgrain ribbon forms tabs in back. Lion emblem of golden wire thread on wide band of black grosgrain ribbon across brim on left side. Unlined with inner headband of black grosgrain ribbon. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head.
Pumps of white suede and black leather segments. The shoes of white suede are designed with a slightly pointed toe, open at front with a small inverted "V" shape, the front of the toe-box overlaid with a black leather trim. The instep with black narrow leather lace-up details and bow. Wedge heel of white suede with black leather horizontal bands. Designer's stamp inside left shoe: "by Johansen / Smartest Since 1876" Retailer's stamp inside right shoe: "Ernest Grissom's / Abilene"
Cloche style hat of royal blue felt. Wide brimmed with sunken crown. Hatband of matching blue grosgrain ribbon and band of blue feathers partially held in place by a banded slit cut through the crown as trim. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Molyneux / 5. Rue Royale / Made in France"
Cloche style hat of black Milan straw cloth with small, slightly pointed front brim. Hat is folded across width of crown towards front. Narrow black velvet ribbon trim meeting to form a bow at front with wreath of folded ribbon at base of bow. Unlined with elastic band to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Louise Bourbon (barely legible) / 13 Rue Royale Paris" Tag attached to designer's label: "Made in France"
Hat of black wool felt in fedora style. Wide brimmed; sunken crown. Red leather trim at crown cut down center with pinking cut and supplemented with wound strands of green leather and braided with wound strands of green leather on opposite side. Ends of hatband are connected with large wooden toggle. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Rose Descat / 22.Rue Royale"
Hat of navy blue felt in Scottish glengarry style with two blue grosgrain ribbon on crown forming short streamers in back. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "été 1940 / Schiaperelli / 21, Place Vendôme Paris" Label above designer's label: "Made in France"
Hat of red wool felt. Sport style with sectioned, slight gathering at two points on domed crown. Asymmetrical crown with black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Unlined. Inner headband of black grosgrain ribbon and white fabric. Designer's label on inside headband: "Rose Descat / 22.Rue Royale" Tag below designer's label: "Made in France"
Hat of black felt, brimless toque style. Cylindrical crown, rounded at top shoulders with extending cockscomb of three tiers extending upwards. Designer's label: "Bruyere / 4, Rue de Rondovi_Paris" Tag above designer's label: "Made in France"
Hat of gold felt. Alpine adaptation style sport hat with sunken crown. Brown grosgrain ribbon hatband and orange pheasant quill trim. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer label: "Blanche & Simone / Paris . 1 Rue de la Paix 1 . Paris"
Hat of soft white pique styled with elements of a pillbox and a sailor's cap. Circular conical crown stitched to create folds and valleys around top and upper part. White silk(?) band inside lower edge. Designer's label: "Agnes / 6 Rue St Florentin / Paris"
Hat of light mustard colored wool felt. Wide crown and narrow, asymmetrical brim; rolled under with black felt lining under brim. Hatband of black velvet covered in black net trimmed in two rows of large, black sequins with rhinestone centers. Black velvet bow at back and hatpin with oblong shaped, black glass head. Unlined. Label sewn to inner hatband: "Gladys & Belle / 20 West 57th St. - New York"
Little girl's dress of peach silk crepe. Embroidered smocking of purple flowers, greenery, and grey decorative stitches on rounded neckline; purple flower embroidery on body of dress. Center back closure of two snaps. Short, puffed sleeves. Unlined.
Pair of white leather shoes. Designed with a rounded open toe, the shoes have white leather uppers with straps across instep that cross and connect sides. Uppers edged with narrow sewn edge. Modified chunky Louis heel covered in white leather. Stamped inside: "Bob Shoe / For Style and Comfort" and "Made in / Hong Kong"
Black velvet calotte (also spelled "calot") covered with faux pearls and diamonds. The circular domed hat has a narrow, up-turned brim which is completely covered with a latticework of oval faux pearls, with faux diamonds set at each intersection. At the top of the crown is an upstanding black velvet covered wire surmounted by a "mushroom cap" beaded in the same way as the rest of the hat. Inside of brim lined with black grosgrain ribbon, the hat lined in black netting.
Calotte style hat of deep emerald green velvet with stitched, raised front. Rim of twisted velvet. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Danielle / ses chapeaux / Paris" Tag attached to designer's label: "Made in France"
Child's dress of beige linen with print design of Mother Goose, moons, people and animals. Solid beige collar with ruffled trim edged in peach; with matching band of same fabric/ruffles down center front. Center front opening of three snaps is hidden under center piece and ruffle. Gathered bodice with three vertical tucks at center back. Puffed short sleeve with narrow armbands. Cotton bias tape underneath at hem. Unlined. No labels in garments.
Cloche style hat of fur felt in charcoal gray blending to lighter gray at top of crown. Brim turns up in back with folded tab of self as trim. Black leather belt-style hatband with red buckle. Designer label sewn onto inside silk hatband: "Cannes Barritz / Jean Patou / 7, Rue St. Florentin / Paris"
Cloche style hat of tan wool felt. Scalloped, upturned brim trimmed with tan grosgrain. Small, circular, concave piece of trim in same material added to crown as trim. One hatpin with gray felt head. Unlined. Inside of crown stamped: "Made in France" Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Made to Order Hat / Bergdorf / Goodman / Fifth Ave. at 58th St."
Hat of green felt. Designed as a modified cloche, the had is formed of a deep, domed crown of green felt with a rolled edge at back that extends to become a high, curved brim in front. The front extension is crowned by a feathered ornament formed as a stylized bird looking downwards. The "bird" has tan and dark feathers for the tail, green feathers for neck and breast, and a black plastic(?) beak. Around the base of the crown is a band of dark gray/bronze colored net trimmed with chenille dots, which extends at front and sides to become a veil. Around inside of crown is dark brown/black grosgrain ribbon band. Sewn to inner ribbon band is maker's label: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Custom Made"
Coat of red wool with metallic gold motifs forming an almost-plaid design. Between knee- and street-length. Center front opening with no closures. Bracelet-length sleeves with pleated sections at front of each shoulder. Fully lined in red silk. Combined designer/retailer label at inside back collar: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Original / Made for / Neusteter's / Denver"
Dress of black and purple diagonal woven stripe taffeta. It has a V- neckline in front and back, and has a fitted bodice with balloon peplum which gathers into the waist. Sleeveless, the dress has black velvet straps with striped flounces on each side and has black velvet petals attached to the straps. The long, straight skirt has a front slit. Dress has a center back zipper closure, and is unlined. No labels.
Evening ensemble of a dress, jacket and belt. The full-length sleeveless evening dress is of black silk, with a slim silhouette. It has a wide, shallow V-neck at front, and has decorative twist in the fabric at back, which creates a deeper V. The wide straps are ruched at front with non-functional rhinestone-encrusted clasps sewn to them. The bodice has decorative seaming under bust and around the hips. The dress has a black silk belt with a rhinestone-encrusted "buckle", which functions as a large hook-and-eye rather than a buckle. The jacket is of matching black silk, lined with a cream-colored taffeta. The short, bell-shaped sleeves have a second "layer" creating the effect of a wide ruffle. Padded tubes of silk curve along each shoulder, tapering under the arm at front and back. There is a center front opening with no closure, which is "cut away" in a curve at front, giving the overall effect of a miniature 'cropped' opera cape. No labels in either garment. Possibly acquired by Ms. Hewett in France in the 1930's while studying medieval music manuscripts.
Pair of green satin open-toed sandals with gold ribbon trim on the vamp. Designed in a modified slingback style, with an ankle strap that secures with a rounded jeweled buckle. The medium modified continental heel is covered in the same satin. Retailer's label stamped in each: "Neiman Marcus Co; Dallas" Written inside each: "5 1/2 M / 12539 / 8715-R9"
Hat of green felt. Based in part on a "Eugenie-style" hat, the domed crown is of Kelly green felt surrounded by an asymmetrical cut brim which is rolled up at one side. Rolled brim is hand-sewn to crown, and narrows to point in back. Affixed at cut/roll is spray of vari-colored pheasant feathers. Hat is unlined, with Kelly green grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Sewn to the inner hatband are two small simulated tortoise shell combs to secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn inside at hatband: "Estelle Peters / 50 E. 56th St. N.Y.".
Hat of navy blue straw cloth. Veil and white flowers decorate upturned brim edged in navy grosgrain. Asymmetrical brim wider at front ends with almost no brim in back. Hatband of navy velvet ribbon forms bow at back left. Two hatpins with navy, cloth covered heads. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Unlined. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas"
Hat of brown felt. Hat has a high, cylindrical crown, slightly "crumpled", with an asymmetrical brown felt brim that extends out and curls upwards. Highest point of brim is at front of the hat. Round crown, above mid-point, is hatband of dark brown grosgrain ribbon embellished with branching forms of beading, sequins, and metal leaves. This band meets at back and has extending segments cut at angles hanging from the back of the hat. Dark brown grosgrain ribbon hatband inside crown, with thin elastic cord fastened on either side to act as chinstrap to secure hat to wearer's head. The crown of the hat is composed of two sections of felt with the band of grosgrain ribbon between them. From inside of hat the back of the ribbon and the stitching of the beading is visible. Sewn into the inner ribbon band is designer's label: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Original / Expressly for / Neiman-Marcus"
Hat from wedding ensemble. E) Wedding hat of lace matching dress. Flat crown with rolled edges. Trimmed in tulle net and ivory velvet bows on top of crown with two wide streamers down back. Lined in netting with elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Neiman-Marcus Co." Style tag attached to retailer's label: "EJ / 104597"
Hat of navy blue wool jersey and feathers. The hat, styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot") consists of a soft navy blue wool jersey cap which fits tightly to head. On left side are gathers/ruching. On right side is larger circular rosette of navy blue feathers which extends down below lower edge of crown. Unlined. Accompanied by a single hatpin with navy blue jersey covered head. Combined designer's/retailer's label inside: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc. / Original / Expressly for / Neiman-Marcus"
Hat of sequins and feathers. Styled somewhat as a bowler, the base of the hat is of a stiffened net, the oval, low crown domed and covered with layered, curved strings of black sequins. The brim is of the same construction, turned slightly down, and with a slight "wave" along the sides and back. At side is a large pouf of gray/black ostrich feathers. Lined in black, with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label: "Emme / Inc. / 21 East 56th Street / New York"
Hat of black linen. Open crown created by a black ribbon of self encircling what would be the base of the crown, with bow at back. Wide brim, irregular-edged, slightly "waved". Inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Manufacture's label on inside hatband: "Betmar" Union label on inside hatband: "823937" Retailer's stamp on inside hatband: "Weldon's Fort Worth"
Hat of cream colored straw. Open crown covered with intertwined, wide yellow and pear green velvet ribbons ending in a bow at the front. Wide, asymmetrical brim, narrowest at back. Retailer's label at inside hatband: "Made to Order Hat / Bergdorf / Goodman / Fifth Ave. at 58th St."
Hat of pink felt. The hat is essentially crownless, with no top and very low sides covered with a wide pink grosgrain ribbon hatband with bow at back and slight ribbon tail at front. The wide brim slants down slightly. Inner off-white satin(?)ribbon hatband.
Boater style hat of brown straw. Wide, low, flat crown with small brim. Gray grosgrain ribbon hatband forms a bow in the front. Large green and red pheasant plumes extend from top of crown towards middle of back through loops in crown and brim. Hatpin with translucent white, pear-shaped head. Gray grosgrain ribbon headband; unlined. Maker's label: "Jeanne Téte / Made expressly for /Chez Jere, Shreveport, LA"
Hat of red felt and white yarn. The hat is formed of strips of red felt sewn together and top-stitched with white yarn. The low, domed crown is encircled at base by a narrow red velvet band with trailing ends at back. The square brim has points and sides curling down at different angles. Unlined.
Hat of chocolate brown wool felt. Domed crown with rolled brim. Brim crimps to a V in back. Front matching veil. Brown ostrich plume attached at front with triangular, accordion folded brown grosgrain ribbon. Brown grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Unlined. Retailer's label on inside headband: "Saks - Fifth Avenue"
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