Coat of purple wool. Below-knee-length, collarless, and with long sleeves. Center front opening with three large, self covered buttons. Two patch pockets trimmed with one matching button each and framed in 3/4 inch inserts. Lined in purple silk crepe. Designer's label at inside center back neckline: "Adrian / Original" With matching covered belt with functioning belt buckle. Leather reverse with three punched holes. Stamped "1756 - 14"
Evening dress of silk crepe for summer. The full-length dress has an A-line skirt of cocoa brown silk crepe and attached belt with pendant strap at front left. The bodice is of cream silk crepe printed with a "trompe l'oeil" ribbon motif below the rounded neckline. Darts at sides. Long, bat-wing style tapered sleeves. Center-back snap closure. Unlined. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original"
Two-piece wool tweed cape/coat street ensemble. a) Cape coat of wool tweed in three shades of plum. Long, single-breasted coat with cape attached at shoulders. Four button closure with alternating bound buttonholes and supplemented with two hook & eyes. Two small double welt pockets on yoke and two larger double welt pockets at waistline. Coat dress portion is tailored at waistline with 3/4 length sleeves. Small turndown collar. Lined in rust brown colored silk faille. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Adrian / Original" b) Straight skirt of matching wool tweed. Unlined. Zipper closure.
Evening dress consisting of jacket and skirt. A) Jacket. The fitted black velvet jacket is encrusted with gold braid/ribbon in a lattice/trellis pattern over the entire surface, with added buttons, cabochons, beads, etc. lavishly sewn over the surface. The jacket has a no collar, and short capped sleeves. From the natural waist flares a peplum. The jacket has a center front closure of hooks-and-eyes. Unlined, it has built-in shoulder pads. No label in jacket. B) Straight skirt is full-length, of heavy black crepe. Center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at waistband. Designer's label inside skirt at side seam: "Adrian / Custom", along with a second label, typed on white grosgrain ribbon, sewn in: "Neiman Marcus 417 / Size 12".
Evening dress of black heavy crepe with rows of looped accents at neckline, left sleeve, left hip and on draped band below left hip. Two hanging tabs from right waistline. Sheath silhouette. Pointed collar with open slit. Long sleeves with small zippers at cuffs. Full length with vent at center front. Center back zipper closure. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original"
Jacket of navy blue wool crepe. Asymmetrically trimmed with pleated band falling from right shoulder, secured with white buckle at waistline. Self belt at waist with matching white buckle. Long sleeved with pleated diagonal at lower right sleeve. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original"
Woman's jacket of purple wool with asymmetrical curved inset at right shoulder. Two bound slit pockets below shoulder. Center front closure with 3 buttons and bound buttonholes. Two slit pockets at hips with an asymmetrical inset over left pocket. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original"
Woman's suit of brown wool gabardine. a) Single breasted, jacket with rectangle motif carried throughout. Convertible collar with 3" points, and one under collar stop 2" from CF as shoulder yoke extends in a 2" wide rectangle parallel to collar edge. Shoulder yoke also extends to self-face the jacket, creating a 1"x 3" rectangle on the underside of the first bound button hold and button. There are 4 brown buttons with three narrow bound button holes, the second button falling at bottom of rectangle yoke as a inseam button. Pair of double welt slit pockets below shoulder within a rectangle of opposite grain within the larger rectangle in same grain as welt lips, with rectangle design lines extending over sleeve and top of it slip-stitched to mid-arm scythe. Two parallel princess seams starting from lower rectangle yoke and front under arm seam run under 8" over-sized pocket flap, narrow to define width of 4" slit pocket. Over-sized bias pocket flap is 8" x 4" with 1 1/2" x 7" vertically center rectangle insert of opposite bias grain both starting from side seam. Full length set in sleeves with one elbow dart at each under seam. At right sleeve's forearm starts a rectangle welt insert attached til 1 3/4" above cuff, where it floats above sleeve and continues as its own shape to cuff's edge and folds back 1" basted to itself. Lined in copper crepe silk. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Adrian / in /British Samek Material" (b) A-line skirt of matching fabric. One inch folded waistband with triangular tab at lapped left side zipper with snap at tip and 4 sets of hook & eyes on waistband. Two 4" darts on front and two 7" darts on back. Unlined with pinked seam edges.
Gray worsted wool two-piece suit. A) Jacket. Hip-length, with long sleeves. Center front opening with 4 large circular buttons (one missing). Front with piece-in bands of same cloth forming cross-overs at upper bust and arcs below the two pockets. Lined in peach fabric. Designer's label at left side: "Adrian / Original"; At center back inside neckline is retailer's label "Nan Duskin / Philadelphia" B) Skirt. Street-length, ca. mid-calf. Zipper closure at left hip, with hook-and-eyes at waistband. Unlined. Retailer's label as in jacket, near hem on side seam.
Two-piece skirt suit of tan, lightly striped, possibly synthetic material. The jacket is a tailored shell with high rounded neckline and square spread collar. Full-length set-in sleeves. constructed in one piece with darts at the elbows. Center front closure from the neck to hip line with four bound buttonholes with corresponding brown tortoise shell buttons. Bound hip pockets with flaps. The jacket front is intricately pieced. Fully lined in light brown crepe. Designer's label stitched along inside of right front opening: "Adrian / Original" The skirt is narrow, knee-length, with knee-level kick pleat. The skirt is darted into a narrow waistband, and has a left side seam zipper closure from waist to hip line. Lapped closure with single hook&eye and hook&bar. Unlined with turned back hem.
Suit of tan heather wool. Suit consists of two pieces: A) Jacket, pointed collar, notched lapels, single breasted, long sleeves, cut formed of diagonal piecing, lined in tan silk crepe. B: Skirt, four gored, kick pleat at CF hem.
Skirt suit of navy blue wool twill consisting of: A) Hip-length jacket with full length tailored sleeves. Collarless neckline which raises 3/4". Single breasted with 3 tortoise buttons and slim bound button holes. Bib-shaped yoke insert with two almost vertical faux pocket flaps. Mid-arm design seams comes to inner top of lower hacking pocket flaps. Hacking pockets have vertical and slim bound buttons holes with one tortoise button for right flap and one turquoise button for left flap. Back inverted triangular yoke starts from shoulders with point ended at center back waist. Tailored sleeve split into upper and under sleeve, with two darts at elbow on under sleeve. Fully lined in (now) indigo crepe silk. B) Skirt, pencil with seams at center front and back and both sides. 1 1/2" waist band with triangular tip comes to a lapped zipper on left side and 4 sets of hooks and one snap for closure. Two 2" darts on front and two 4" darts on back. 2" simple vent at CF hem, hem has been let down from original length by ~2", using 2" cotton bias tape. Skirt is unlined with pinked cut edges to finish seam inside. Labels: Designer's label: "Adrian / in / British Samek Material" Retailer's label: "The Fashion / Houston"
Brown gabardine suit. a) Suit jacket of brown gaberdine. Long sleeves. Single breasted with three circular brown buttons and bound buttonholes. Two faux flap pockets at yoke with matching, smaller buttons and bound buttonholes. Two lower hacking pockets with matching, smaller buttons and bound buttonholes. V-shaped yoke on back. Lined in rust colored silk. No designer's label. Retailer's label on inside center back neckline: "Nan Duskin / Philadelphia" b)Skirt of brown gaberdine. A-lined shape with left side zipper. Kick pleat at center front seam. Unlined.
Woman's skirt suit of grey-black twill wool with blue and creme yellow pinstripe. a) Jacket has flat pointed collar with a rectangular insert yoke panel trimmed with four teal, olive and brown mottled plastic buttons. Center front opening with three same buttons and bound button holes. Bodice has 3 faux pocket flaps on right, increasing in size like a step pyramid. Long, one-piece set in sleeves sleeves with two elbow darts on both arms. Right arm has two rectangular, decorative fabric panels on right sleeve of jacket's fabric, with a single button and bound button hole each in the upper, outer corner. Lined in tan silk faille. Designer's Label at center back collar: "Adrian/ in/British Samek Material" (b) A-line skirt with CF and CB and side seams. Hemmed in navy blue hem tape, blind hem (slip) stitched on both sides. 3" hem. Four waist darts, with 1 3/8" waist band ending in arrow tip over left-side lapped zipper.
Two-piece daytime skirt suit of Mexican homespun cotton consisting of: A) Jacket. Body of jacket is purple, long sleeves and collarless yoke of green, with a narrow band of rose inserted below yoke in front. Jacket has padded shoulders and is slightly fitted, and closes with hooks and eyes in front. Small string tie at waist. Fully lined in purple silk. Designer label inside: "Adrian / Original" B) Skirt. Skirt is purple, below knee-length, of slim design flaring slightly. Was altered to lengthen, and then restored to original length. Side zipper closure, and waistband has snap and two hook-and-eye closures. No Labels. A hat was made to go with the suit by Henry's, Dallas, accession number 1967.002.003
Skirt suit of brownish grey worsted wool in black, white, and warm grey. Jacket of self-worsted wool with notched collar and rounded lapels that extend beyond collar; open front trimmed in half-circle lapels at opening with brass disc button accents; 4 buttons on each side decreasing in diameter to bottom; wide, elbow-length sleeves with 3” cuffs; small shoulder pads within; fully lined in brown chiffon; waist-length. Skirt of matching self-worsted wool is gored with long reverse pleat at center-front surrounded by 2 shorter reverse pleats at each side; slight A-line; hits below knees. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original" Original customer label(?): "James L. Courtney"
Black wool two-piece skirt suit. A) Jacket. Just below hip-length, with center front opening with three hook-and-eye closures. Faux tie of same fabric at waist. Slight collar, and v-neckline. Thin orange/red inset line across front and up to shoulders. Long sleeves with inset orange/red panels along length of sleeves, with cording detailing and zipper closures at cuffs. Slit pockets just below waist. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original" B) Skirt of matching black wool. Street length. Possibly a replacement for the original skirt.
Skirt suit of blue/grey wool consisting of: A) Jacket of navy wool. Jacket has 3/4 sleeves, slash pockets with button trim and welt buttonhole; wide shoulders; nipped-in waist; intricate inset back detail; half belt crisscross in back with button and welt buttonhole. Lined in navy silk. Designer's label at inside back collar: "Adrian / in / British Samek Material" (B) Skirt of same fabric. Mid-calf length; small back kick pleat at hem. Zipper closure. Unlined.
Street suit of gray wool. A daytime or street suit consisting of two pieces. Excellent example of chiaroscuro work. A) Jacket with squared padded shoulders, no collar, and long sleeves. Opening along the central front, the jacket has a series of 5 hook-and-eye closures. A band that extends from upper left, across opening, and secures through a wide loop just below the right shoulder. The jacket is lined in a peach/mauve silk. At center back of inside neckline is designer's label: "Adrian / Original" Retailer's label at right inside seam: "Frost Bros. / San Antonio". B) Straight skirt was originally just below knee length, but has been lengthened by the addition of material almost matching the lining of the jacket. The skirt has a center back zipper closure. It is currently unlined, but has evidence of the alterations. No labels, possibly removed.
Navy daytime tailored two-piece suit in British Samek wool. a) Suit jacket of navy British Samek wool. Center front opening with three circular, blue plastic buttons; welted buttonholes button suit jacket. Padded shoulders. Two patch pockets. Notched collar with squared shoulder yoke with matching button attached to square insert. Lined in eggplant crepe. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Adrian / in / British Samek Material" Tag above designer's label: "A. Herod, Sr." b) Slim straight skirt of navy British Samek wool. Folded waistband of same. Center back zipper with snap and 4 hook and eyes on waistband. Lined in navy blue silk. Tag on inside waistband: "A. Herod, Sr."
Skirt suit of black English gabardine. a) Jacket with parallel rows of scalloped seam details which angle from the center front neck and shoulders to the side seam to meet the back scalloped seams. Convertible collar. Long, two-piece sleeves with scallop seam detail from wrist to shoulder; underarm shaped with dart. Center front opening with three self covered buttons with bound buttonholes. Lined in black textured silk. Designer's label at inside, right front buttonhole extension: "Adrian / Original" Retailer's label at inside back neckline: " Neiman-Marcus" b) Pencil skirt of same with center front scallop from hip to hem; last scallop is used for shaped vent. Lined in black textured silk. Lapped left-side zipper. Waistband overlap ends in a triangle.
Skirt suit of black silk faille. The two-piece skirt consists of a jacket and skirt. The jacket is of mid-hip length, with shawl collar, long sleeves, and center-front opening which secures with three circular buttons covered with black faille and embroidered with a stylized "M" or Scorpio symbol. At upper front collarbone area are two applied strips of black faille which form "tabs", and there are similar sewn-in patches of same. Front hip pocket, and another "tab" on other hip. The skirt is street length, with similar patches and tabs. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original" Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus"
Street suit of gray wool. A daytime or street suit consisting of two pieces. A) Jacket, with squared padded shoulders, no collar, and long sleeves. Opening along the central front, the jacket has a series of 5 hook-and-eye closures, and has a band that extends from upper left, across opening, and secures through a wide loop just below the right shoulder. The jacket is lined in a peach/mauve silk. B) Skirt. The straight skirt was originally just below knee length, but has been lengthened by the addition of material almost matching the lining of the jacket. The skirt has a center back zipper closure. It is currently unlined, but has evidence of the alterations. Jacket: At center back of inside neckline is designer's label: "Gilbert / Original"; at right inside seam: "Frost Bros / San Antonio". Skirt: No labels, possibly removed.
Child's dress of blue cotton batiste with white embroidery. Short, puffed sleeves with rolled cuff and white embroidered scalloped edges. Rounded neckline with white embroidered scalloped edges. Small pin tuck pleats at front shoulders; center front is embellished with embroidery in scroll and floral motif. Center front opening of six white buttons (one missing) and barred buttonholes.
Hat of gray felt. The cylindrical gray felt crown is very slightly domed, and is set off-center to the brim. The brim, of matching felt, turns up, forming a deep, steep-sided bowl around the crown. The edge of the brim turns in, and is sewn down forming a seam around the inside edge of the "bowl". At left front of the brim is a bow of matching felt. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of gray grosgrain ribbon around the inside base of the crown. Stamped inside the crown: "Body made in Italy". Maker's hand-sewn(?) label affixed to inner hatband: "Jo Bailey / Hats".
Hat of black velvet with cording detail. The domed crown is encircled at base with a band of black cord-work, with a bow at back with trailing ribbon. The circular brim turns up at edge, which is embellished with same cording as base of crown. Lined in ribbed orange red fabric, with a black grosgrain inner ribbon hatband, and with an elastic cord to help secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's hand-sewn label inside crown: "Jo Bailey / Hats"
Dark orange velvet hat. The shaped crown is roughly square with low peak at top center, constructed of four triangular panels, creating slight "corners" at sides. No brim. Lined in black satin. Accompanied by two hatpins, the heads covered with matching velvet. Designer's label inside: "Original / Roberta Bernays"
Oval, calotte style hat of faded rose tucked satin with fabric flowers and petals in matching color. Flower at front of hat trimmed with small satin bow at center. Retailer's label on inside back headband: "Bonnette / Highland Park Village"
Hat of multi-colored woven wool stripes. Designed somewhat as a toque, the hat has a cylindrical crown, tilted back, with flattened, recessed top and no brim. The fabric of the hat has alternating stripes of white, dark red, red, pink, dark blue, light blue, and gray, with the stripes arranged to form chevrons. lined in thin black fabric, with underlayer of medium gray. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Bonnette / Highland Park Village"
Hat of black velvet. The flat crown is surmounted by an arrangement of artificial lily-of-the-valley, with green cloth leaves and cloth and wire flowers/stems. From the back of the hat descends a black velvet snood to catch up the wearer's hair. Designer's label sewn into back of snood: "Yvonne Boutin / 510 Madison Ave, N.Y."
Hat of black, white, red, and ocher silk styled as a Garrison Cap (aka Side Cap, or Wedge Cap). Influenced by military headgear, this hat is constructed as a flat envelope, which opens along long edge to form a wedge-shaped crown. The cap is dyed in the Shibori technique, forming intricate designs outlined in white and filled in with red or ocher dots. Lined in black silk. Designer's label inside: "3410 Oak Lawn / Bernie A. Cahn / Dallas, Tex."
Hat of pink straw. The open crown is of woven pink straw, as is the wide oval brim. At the front of the hat is a cluster of artificial flowers in pink velvet and green fabric. The hat is unlined, with two inner hatbands of grosgrain ribbon at the base of the crown - one band pink, the other of cream. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "3410 Oak Lawn / Bernie A. Cahn / Dallas, Tex" Accompanied by a single short hatpin with a tan straw woven head.
Ensemble of black wool. The outfit consists of: A) Dress of black wool. Street-length skirt has attached low front leather belt which passes through pleats on left and right. Bodice has narrow collar and deep V-neck with piping that twists at base of V. Bracelet length sleeves with cuffs. Back zipper. No labels. B) Jacket of black wool. Jacket has long sleeves with rolled, notched cuffs, and a notched collar. Center front opening has 5 circular, plastic buttons and covered buttonholes. The padded hips have double welt pockets at left and right. The jacket is lined in black silk. Combined Designer/Retailer label: "Neiman-Marcus dallas / Hattie Carnegie" National Recovery Board / Coat and Suit Industry label "000006"
Picture hat of reddish brown straw. Low, cylindrical, slightly tilted crown is flattened at top and encircled at base by wide gray grosgrain ribbon which divides into three tiers of streamers cascading at back. Wide floppy brim. Reddish brown inner grosgrain ribbon hatband and black elastic cord to secure to wearer's head. Designer's label at inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / INC." Retailer's label at inner hatband: "Neiman Marcus Co. / New York Dallas Paris"
Skirt suit of navy wool with white pinstripes consisting of: A) Jacket of navy and white pinstripe wool. Double breasted with 4 circular navy blue buttons and covered buttonholes. Notched collar. Long sleeves. Padded shoulders. Horizontal, double welt pockets covered with flap at front left and right. Lined in navy silk. Designer's label at back neckline: "Hattie Carnegie" Retailer's label at right inside seam: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" Union label at right inside seam. b) White crepe blouse - not shown in photographs. c) Skirt of navy wool. Slight A-line. Street length. Unlined. Label at hem: "Spring 1946 / Hattie Carnegie / Size 10"
Hat of burgundy red velvet. Sailor-style hat has 2 1/2" high crown of burgundy velvet, with narrow, 1 1/2" flat brim of same. The side of the crown is wrapped in magenta colored ostrich feathers, which cover the sides of the crown and the brim. At front of hat is half-veil of maroon mesh accented with chenille dots. Inside of crown lined with green floral-pattern lace, with dark maroon velvet around sides of crown, and under brim. Around inside base of crown is an inner headband of dark red maroon grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Chanda". Accompanied by a short hatpin mounted with large simulated pearl at head.
Calotte style of off white felt with two bands that over-cross twice. Narrow upturned brim. Crown is covered in brown net which goes under hat bands to become veil in front. Hatpins with triangular heads of matching felt attach veil to hat. Spray of brown coque feathers as trim on right. Red grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Hatpin with white pearl head attached to designer's label on inside hatband. Unlined. Stamp on inside crown illegible. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Chandra"
Hat of black straw with small crown worn forward on head with under-chin strap. Brim is visor shaped in front and long on back; very narrow sides. Trimmed with triple bow trim on one side and pink feathers on the other. Designer's label: "Bernice / Charles / 711 Fifth Ave. / New York"
Hat of light brown felt and black voile. The domed crown is of light brown felt, curving slightly and extending outwards at front. Mounted at front is a large leaf-shape of fine black voile with black thread veining and wired edge. The leaf from is sculptural, with the wired edge curved and bent. At side of leaf is a spray of yellow feathers and black ribbon. Hat is unlined, with inner light brown grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label (stating reproduction: "Reproduction Autorisee de / Janette Colombier / 4 Avenue Matignon / Paris" Maker's label: "Fifth Avenue / G Howard Hodge / New York" Maker's label for felt body: "Gaby / Made / In / Czechoslovakia"
Evening dress of wine-colored hammered rayon satin. Wide, bateau neckline trimmed with wine colored ostrich feathers, sequins and bows of matching fabric. Short sleeves. Street length. Ruching at center front of bodice and at center back seam below waist. Left side zipper. Unlined; shoulder pads. Retailer's label at left side seam: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" With matching tie belt, 1 1/4" wide.
Hat in modified renaissance style of black crochet net. Flat, circular crown of net gathered under crown from temples draping to shoulder length. Inside hatband of black grosgrain. Designer's label on inside hatband: " Lilly Dache Paris 78 East 58th St. New York"
Glove of pale blue-gray cotton with green undertone. Hands have seams on outside; running stitch of same color; wrists widen and dip in V shape on thumb side; pinkie finger side of wrist features a large scalloped edge. Label sewn in right glove: "Gloves / Designed by / Lilly Dache", with "7" in a circle indicating size.
Turban of black and red print fabric with large draped pouf at top in bow shape. Headband of same drapes around back of top pouf, hangs over forehead and knots in front. Lined in black net with black grosgrain headband. Designer's Label: "Lilly / Dache / Paris New York / 78 East 56th Street, N.Y." Size label: "22 1/4"
Hat of black broadtail fur with high, rounded crown and narrow, curved brim. Wide, black grosgrain ribbon as hatband forms bow at side. Designer's label: "Lilly Daché / Paris New York" Crown stamped: "Featherlite / Brand"
Hat of black felt. Cloche style crown of black felt, domed, has high front structure of 7 multi-colored artificial roses of reds, greens, blues, and peach velvet. No brim. Inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York / 78 East 56th Street, N.Y."
Hat of black seal fur. Hat is brimless with short, flat crown. Round piece embroidered with black cording and decorated with tassels attached to back of hat. Lined in black fabric with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Designer's label: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York / 78 East 56th Street, N.Y."
Hat of gray fur felt. The derby style hat is made of a single piece of stiffened gray fur felt. The low, domed crown is encircled near the base by a band of black grosgrain ribbon, with a bow at back. The 2" wide brim curves upwards at edges. Hat is unlined, and has a band of black grosgrain ribbon inside at base of crown. Attached to the inner ribbon is a small plastic comb to secure the hat to wearer's head. Designer's label sewn to inner ribbon: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York / 78 East 56th Street, N.Y."
Hat of black organza. The hat is in the form of a pillbox designed as a turban. A wired framework is overlaid with black organza, pleated to form long folds running front to back. At the front of the hat is a large bow of the same material, the trailing pieces pleated to match the crown and affixed to run in same direction. Lined in black mesh, and with inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Elastic string inside to run around back of wearer's head to secure hat. Two small hatpins with custom covers of same material on heads are stuck in back of hat. Designer's Label: "Lilly / Dache / Paris New York / 78th East 56th Street, N.Y."
Turban style hat of black and pink striped satin with stuffed stand up pleated pouf in front. Lined in black net with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Designer's label: "Lilly Daché Paris / 78 East 58th St. New York"
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