Red leaf hat. Rounded conical hat of netting partly covered with red and pink silk leaves. Inside the hat, which has aspects of both a cloche and a toque, at the base of the crown, is a band of red grosgrain ribbon. Sewn into the ribbon band is designer's label: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris".
Calotte hat of brown velvet. One hatpin with black, avocado shaped head. Brim and top center seam meet to form V-shaped opening. Designer's label on inside hat band: "Balenciaga Hats . Paris" Retailer's label beneath designer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Salon"
Cocktail dress of fuschia (cranberry) silk with black feather print; bodice has round neckline and three-quarter length sleeves; skirt is knee-length and very full, gathered at waist and covered by a short piece of self fabric.
Ensemble in black and oatmeal colored wool, consisting of: A) Jacket: Semi-fitted wool in abstracted herringbone weave with black and oatmeal yarns running double throughout; moderately rounded neckline with asymmetrical mandarin collar; full-length raglan sleeves with overarm seam and undersleeve; double breasted front opening with eight round, plastic, oatmeal colored buttons and four bound buttonholes supplemented by single hook & eye inside lap at waist; vertical welt pockets on front lined in black silk; fully lined in black silk. Designer's label at inside collar: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris" and "Made in France". Retailer's label at inside side seam: "Neiman-Marcus" B) Dress: Knee length dress; bodice of black wool gauze with jewel neckline; sleeveless; lapped centerfront opening with four round self-covered buttons and bound buttonholes supplemented by single snap and hook & eye; bodice gathers into seam at natural waistline; gathered hip yoke of same gauze; straight skirt of matching herringbone has three snaps at centerfront opening; folded hem; gauze is lined in black silk organdy; skirt is unlined.
Evening ensemble consisting of gold brocade evening gown trimmed in white mink with matching coat and detachable train. A) Evening coat of gold brocade. Ballerina length with short, dolman sleeves. Banded neckline. Center front opening is cutaway in front below waist and tapers to hem. Lined in gold metallic organdy. B) Evening dress of gold brocade with white mink fur trim at the neckline and hips. Full length with princess seaming and slight A-line to skirt. Scooped back. Fur trim around neckline and back goes over shoulders to form straps of dress. Center back zipper. Belt of fur at hips closes in back the 3 covered hook & eyes. Skirt lined in white tulle. Bodice is boned and lined in white netting and closes in back with hook & eyes. Designer's Label: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris" Model label behind designer's label: "74184" C) Detachable train of gold brocade. Train is rectangular in shape and gathers into smocking where it attaches to back of dress with snaps and hook & eyes. Floor length. Unlined.
Evening hat of black silk satin and black ostrich feathers. hat is formed as a black satin domed crown totally covered with black ostrich feathers, forming a cloud around the wearer's head. At front, and running below feathers around head, is wide band of black silk satin, with a bow at front center. Hat is lined in black silk.
a) Gown of pale pink tulle heavily hand embroidered in pink flowers with silver metallic thread, sequins and rhinestones. Strapless with full-length, A-line skirt. Underskirt of ivory stiffened silk and lined in ivory silk. b) Scarf of matching pale pink tulle. c) Original pink satin ribbon sash/belt d) Replacement modern pink satin ribbon sash/belt
Hat of red/orange straw. Constructed of bands of braided straw sewn in a spiral, the crown is a shallow cylinder with inset flattened top, and flares out at base to form the steeply sloped brim. At left side of crown is large applied flat bow of same straw. Unlined, the hat has an inner band of self, partly overlaid with cream velvet as a hatband.
Hat created with a green and white silk scarf printed with a plaid pattern. The framework is a domed crown, higher at front than back, over which the silk scarf is fastened, pulled to back forming knotted ornament with trailing end. Lined in white mesh tulle, through which the under-structure can be seen. Inner pale green and white grosgrain ribbon hatband, with translucent brown plastic comb at inside front to secure to wearer's head. No designer's label.
Hat of white organza. High pillbox crown, 4" deep. Bottom edge of crown encircled with 3" wide bias organdy that ties in large bow at center front. Lined in white silk with white grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Covered wires at sides for securing hat to wearer's head.
Suit hat of black velour. Rounded 4" deep crown. 2" wide front upward turned brim. 1/2" wider at sides, turning downward at center back. Has large black ostrich feather tassel at center back. Lined in netting with gray grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Comb at center front for securing hat to wearer's head.
Hat of reddish-pink wool. The derby style hat has a domed crown made of four sections of cloth that meet at center. Each section has chevrons of stitching, which point towards the center of the crown, giving a subtle quilted effect. Narrow brim rolls upwards at sides and back. A black suede(?) bow is applied to base of crown at center left. Inside base of crown is a band of pink grosgrain ribbon. Sewn to inner ribbon band is maker's label: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris" and label "Made in France"
Cocktail hat of violet silk satin. The hat is formed of a low, cylindrical, flat-topped pillbox-style crown covered in drapes of violet/purple silk satin fabric. At center front/top of the crown are two large sculptural stiffened loops of the fabric. Crown is lined in cream fabric. Along inside lower edge of crown is a cream grosgrain ribbon band. No labels. Donor stated: "...worn on back of head with upstanding loops in front, made for a grey lace three-quarter cocktail dress..."
Mushroom hat of red/orange baku straw. Uniquely cut crown is square with points at front and back. Four side panels are formed off of sides of square crown. Lined in white gauze material with red/orange grosgrain ribbon inner headband.
Picture hat of light beige finely woven straw. The domed crown is encircled at base by a rolled tube of the same straw, into which at front is twined the stem of a beige silk satin rose. The wide, slightly floppy brim is strengthened at brim by rolling up and over. The hat is unlined, with inner beige grosgrain ribbon hatband, and two small elastic cords at sides to help secure combs/pins to help hold hat to wearer's head. No labels.
Pillbox style hat of mustard yellow dyed Persian lamb (aka astrakhan). The short, cylindrical crown has a flat, inset top of brown velvet, and slightly bowed sides of yellow curly Persian lamb. The hat is lined in a bronze silk(?), and has inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband and a brown elastic cord to help secure it to wearer's head. No labels.
Pillbox hat of black velvet. The low, cylindrical, slightly domed hat is completely covered in black velvet. Affixed to the center front of the hat is a roughly fan-shaped aigrette of simulated gems and metallic braid with a surmounting spray of white feathers. The crown is lined in black fabric, and has a black grosgrain ribbon running along the inside bottom edge. Sewn to the inner ribbon is a plastic comb to secure the hat to the wearer's head. No labels. The aigrette is attributed to Robert Goossens, of Paris, who is known to have supplied to Balenciaga.
Charcoal gray wool two-piece suit. (a) Jacket: Fitted jacket of gray diamond twill wool; V-neckline with notched collar and peaked lapels; full-length, two piece, set in sleeves; lapped center front opening with two round, black, plastic buttons and bound buttonholes with snaps between buttons; fronts have shoulder and waist darts; two pairs of faux pocket flaps with buttons on fronts at bust and hip; back has low-slung, self fabric belt buttoned on above two faux vents at hem; fully lined in gray silk. (b) Skirt: Matching princess line, knee length skirt with narrow rolled waistband; straight hip yoke all around; inverted box pleat falls from yoke at center back; offset left side back zipper closure supplemented by one hook&eye closure on waistband; hem is faced with gray silk; fully lined in gray silk.
Two-piece gray faille moire wool and nylon suit. Jacket is long, with wide notched collar, is double breasted, has bound button holes, and buttons below waist. It has a sculptural double-breasted front panel, that maintains a vertical linear center front, rounded shape visually flanks stomach area. The skirt is straight; slightly below knee length.
Suit of brown and black wool tweed consisting of jacket, skirt, and vest. a) Jacket: princess line jacket of black and brown wool tweed with ivory slubs running through fabric; V-neckline with narrow notched collar and lapels; full-length sleeves are cut with the jacket body and have two triangular shaped gussets under the arm; sleeves are rolled up to form 1-1/2 cuffs; button front closure; buttons of black crocheted cord surrounding a round faceted black gem. b) Skirt of self fabric with self buttons down center-front; mid-length. c) Vest of self fabric with fabric covered buttons down center-front; fitted; approximately 1" wide shoulder straps.
Light and charcoal gray two-piece daytime skirt suit with leather belt. Fitted jacket of light gray heavy weight wool, having a V-neckline with moderate shawl collar. 3/4 length sleeves are cut in one with jacket body and supplemented by one triangular shaped gusset under the arm. Lapped centerfront opening with two large, round, gray plastic buttons and bound buttonholes supplemented by single hook&eye at waist seam. One pair of faux pocket flaps at bust level. Leather belt. Plain slim skirt of dark charcoal gray wool, just below knee-length.
Dress of black wool with black leather trim. The street-length dress has a standup collar trimmed in snaps. Front opening is leather trimmed and has 5 self-covered snaps. Detachable front skirt panel is edged along top with black leather trim and secured with 5 self-covered snaps. Bracelet length sleeves trimmed with snaps at cuff. Back zipper. Fully lined in black satin. Handwritten label on inside back seam: "Pierre Balmain Fall 1955"
Hat of gray felt. The domed crown is constructed with the the outline of a rounded square, with attached stiffened double-brim, which turns up on all sides, forming a point at front and at sides, but rounded in back. At the back of the hat the brim extends downwards, forming a point. The hat is unlined, and edged with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. A small stitched star on the hatband indicates the front of the hat. Visible behind the ribbon in one section is the woven straw backing used to stiffen the brim. Designer's label inside crown, sewn to ribbon band: "Hattie Carnegie / Custom Made" Stamped inside crown on felt: Circular mark containing a logo of three rabbits and partly missing word "... URLAP", and below logo ".... en France".
Hat of beige velour. Styled as a modified calotte (also spelled "calot"), the hat has a low domed crown and narrow rolled brim with extends slightly more in front to form a "visor" shape. Set at front of hat is an ornament of crossed large white and beige feathers, and smaller gray and white ones. Underside of visor lined with an off-white jersey-like material, and the hat has an inner hatband of dark gray beige grosgrain ribbon overlaid with silver rickrack and pink lace. Maker's label: "Chapeaux / Paris...Chicago" Stamped inside crown: "Midi / Imported velour body / Made in France"
Dress (evening?) of gray and gold brocade in floral pattern with small roses. Below knee length, with short sleeves, and with collarless rounded neckline, split at center front. Center front opening, which has: 3 self-covered circular buttons and bound button holes on bodice; one hook-and-loop tab in pleating; three hook and loop fasteners at dropped waist narrow waistband/belt; 6 functioning self-covered buttons and bound buttonholes on skirt; and with two faux bound button holes at bottom near hem. Full skirt is pleated into waistband. Large bow-form of self at center back of waistband. Lined in sheer cream silk. Designer's label at waist, right back: "Christian Dior - New York Inc."
Hat of black panne velvet. Designed somewhat as a toque, the hat has a high, cylindrical crown which is encircled at base by a wide black velvet ribbon with bow at back and spray of black feathers extending from bow. The brim extends down at a sharp angle. Hat is unlined, with inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label sew to inner hatband: "Styled by / Coralie" and "Finlan". Stamped inside crown: "Flechete / Body made in France"
Hat of red satin and sequins. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot") of dark red satin almost completely covered in sequined floral appliques. Irregular lower edge, following the outline of the appliques. Lined in black paper (?) and satin, and with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. A small stitched mark on the band indicates the front of the hat, and a small applied white ribbon bow is set at back. Designer's Label: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York". Label is large, extending across the inside of the hat, the "Paris", most of "New" and all of "York" are cut off.
Hat of dark green felt and multicolored yarns. Formed in the style of a small bonnet, the cylindrical crown is pointed back, and cut flat across top. The front of the crown is overlaid by a band of heavily embroidered/crocheted flowers and ground of various colors of yarn, and scattered shaped beads. This band is bordered by a thick purple yarn. At the front of the hat and extending along the sides are the brim, folded back to form a second wide band of heavily embroidered/crocheted flowers and ground. The hat is unlined, and from the inside can be seen the inner part of the embroidery/crochet. Maker's label sewn inside hat, at back of crown: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York / 78 East 56th Street, N.Y."
Hatlet of burgundy fabric covered with artificial flowers. The hatlet is formed as an oval of stiffened burgundy fabric intended to be worn across the top of the head. The hatlet is almost entirely covered with artificial flowers of velvets, silk, and other fabrics. The flowers are primarily in pinks/purples/reds, with green stems and leaves. The hat is lined in black satin and edged with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. A small stitched mark on the ribbon indicates the front of the hat. Designer's Label: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York". Label is very large, extending across the full width of the inside of the hatlet, the word "Paris" partly obscured by the grosgrain ribbon.
Turban of pleated brown wool jersey. The high-crowned turban is composed of pleated concentric bands of fabric. The hat is lined in mesh covered with cream/pale yellow silk, and with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. A stitched mark on headband shows front of hat, and small applied ribbon bow shows back. Designer's label inside crown: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York". Label is large, almost reaching from headband to headband across inside of crown.
Cloche-style hat of blue/gray feathers. The crown of the hat is made of dark blue mesh overlaid with a mosaic of blue/gray feathers. Brimless, the lower edge of the crown arcs upwards at front and slightly in back. The hat is lined in the mesh, and has an inner hatband at the lower inside edge of the crown. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Made In / France", "Christian Dior / Paris"
Daytime coat of beige linen. Single breasted with three cream colored, circular, plastic buttons and bound buttonholes. Long, raglan sleeves with 4" cuffs. Notched collar. Street length. Side slit pockets. Lined in black silk. Designer's label at inside right seam of lining under arm hole: "Christian Dior / Paris / Made in France"
Coat dress of white textured silk; fitted back and loose draped front ending over left bust line with long flange to hem. Designer's Label at inside center back below collar " Printemps - Ete 1956 / Christian Dior / Paris / Made in France" and stamped on label: "789[(?) last number is illegible]"
Coat dress of brown silk faille in "Ottoman" style. Knee or street length, with turndown collar and slight V neckline. Darts at bust for fit. Four button closures at center front with bound buttonholes, two above and two below waist/belt. Hook and eyes at waistline. Long sleeves with rolled cuffs and underarm gussets. In-seam pockets at sides. Flared skirt, pleated in back. Simulated "shirtwaist" decoration at front of skirt. Unlined. Designer's label at inside back collar: "Made in / France"; "Autumne-Hiver 1952 / Christian Dior / Paris"; stamped: "2????" [mostly illegible], on label With matching belt of brown suede. Self-covered buckle of narrow, vertical rectangles secures with hook and bar closure; 1-1/4" wide.
Cocktail dress of yellow lace and organza. The strapless, knee-length dress is of yellow inlay Spanish lace, with a slim line skirt that gathers at empire waist. It has a center back zipper with hook & eye closure at top. The bodice has a built-in corset-like support of boning and white net with white grosgrain ribbon waist band, the whole securing at back with 8 hook & eye closures. Lined in yellow silk. A removable, wide band of pleated yellow organza with tapered ends embellished with matching lace appliqués attaches with hooks and eyes at the waist of the dress, giving the effect of a narrow stole. The dress also has an accompanying very large matching yellow organza stole/wrap with matching lace appliqués at each end.
Cocktail dress of dark navy blue silk satin. Strapless with fitted bodice. Open pleats over bust with mock bow and attached 14'' wide stole lined with silk organza which drapes over right shoulder and down back. Straight skirt with small inverted pleats at each hip bone, 23 1/2'' long from waist. Center back 24'' zipper closing with hook and eye at top and waist line. French netting, boned bustier with black grosgrain ribbon and hook & eye closure on inside. Skirt is lined to hip front and back with navy taffeta. Designer's label at center front bottom of bustier: "Christian Dior Original / Made In U.S.A. / Christian Dior - New York, Inc. / Trademark" Retailer's label to left of designer's label: "Neiman-Marcus"
Cocktail ensemble of silver (pale lavender?) heavy faille moire consisting of: A) Cocktail dress. 3/4 length. Sleeveless with thin straps. Shallow V-neck. Natural waist with a bias cut, 1-1/4" set-in waistband between skirt and bodice trimmed with a center, non-functioning gray plastic button. Fitted bust with gores at bust and under-arm. Inverted pleats at front and back center. Center back zipper closure with hook & eye closure at base of bodice. Cream satin lining in bust which descends to become sheath inside skirt. Skirt lined with net. Designer's label at inside center bust: "Made in France / Autumne-Hiver 1952 / Christian Dior / Paris" Stamped "20445" on label. Handwritten label behind designer's label: "250516" B) Matching bolero jacket. Cropped to waist, long sleeves. No collar. Slight V at top of neckline, with deeper "inset" V at bottom. Center front opening with 3 circular gray buttons at base of jacket. Lined in cream silk matching lining of dress. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Made in France / Autumne-Hiver 1952 / Christian Dior / Paris" Stamped "20446" on label. Handwritten label behind designer's label: "250517"
Day dress of red ribbed wool. Squared neckline; 3/4 length sleeves. Set-in waistline with attached 1-1/2" wraparound belt that closes in back with 2 hook & eyes and a snap. Below knee length. Center front opening with 7 hook & eyes on waistband and 7 red, circular, plastic buttons and bound buttonholes below waistband. Lined in red silk; bodice lining is sleeveless with center front zipper closure. Designer's label at right seam of bodice lining: "Automne-Hiver 1953 / Christian Dior / Paris / Made in France" and stamped on designer's label: "36416" Style number label under designer's label, illegible: "--6--4"
Daytime ensemble of brown silk consisting of: A) Dress. Below-knee length, the dress has princess seaming to create fitted bodice, with wide V-neckline, 3/4" shoulder straps and straight skirt. 1" belt of self fabric from front darts to center back. Center back zipper. Unlined. Designer's label: "Christian Dior Original / Made in U.S.A. / Christian Dior - New York Inc." Retailer's label: "Harzfeld's / Kansas City" B) Jacket. Cropped jacket is pleated in front and back to a 3" waistband on which are three brass buttons 1/2" wide, and bound buttonholes. Long sleeves with 1-1/2" cuffs and one matching button per sleeve. Band collar has 10" tie ends and L-shaped lapel. Unlined.
Halter-style dress of black wool. V-neck, very low back, sleeveless, buttons up back. Straight skirt with drapery over hips and in front. Country of Origin Label: " Made in France " located on front neckline at right center. Designers Label at inside left on construction detail: " Made in France / Automne - Hiver 1952 / Christian Dior / Paris "
Dress of blue/gray silk satin or peau de soie, in shirtwaist style. Notched collar. Self covered button at center front with bound buttonhole. Waist seam; 3/4 length skirt with pleats on front and back of skirt. Half-length sleeves with self covered button, turn-back cuffs and bound buttonhole. Armhole princess seams front and back. Tucks on front and back bodice. Center back zipper. Lined in blue organdy with 1/2" blue grosgrain ribbon petersham. With belt of self-fabric forming a bow at center front with hook & eye and snap closure. Designer's label at center back seam below zipper: "Christian Dior - New York, Inc."
Halter-style dress of black wool. Below-knee-length, with wide strap running from front up and behind neck. Straight neckline at front, with very low rounded edge at back - almost to mid-back. Center front with draped effect at waist, appearing "pulled" from hips, and with central front drape. 2 large pleats from waist at back. Center back opening with 5 self-covered buttons and bound buttonholes, supplemented with hook & eye at top and two hook & eyes at waist, and with zipper under edge of pleat at right of center back. Inner bodice of black net has boning and closes at center back with hook & eyes. Skirt lined in black silk. Country of Origin Label: "Made in France" located on front neckline at right center. Designer's Label at inside left on construction detail: "Made in France / Automne - Hiver 1952 / Christian Dior / Paris" and stamped "20951". Has handwritten style number tag beneath designer's label (mostly illegible): "50938" Retailer's label at back seam of skirt: "Neiman-Marcus"
Daytime dress of red silk faille. Street length. Short sleeves with turned-back edge. Shawl collar with button-down ends at front. Center front opening of 6 circular faceted red plastic buttons. Skirt gathers/pleats at waistline. Side slit pockets. Bodice partly lined in red silk. Red grosgrain ribbon petersham with hook & eye. Designer's label at right side seam: "Christian Dion Original / Made in U.S.A. / Christian Dior - New York Inc. / Trademark" Retailer's label at left side seam of skirt: "Neiman-Marcus". With accompanying belt of red leather covered with matching red silk faille. Elongated oval buckle covered with red silk faille except for tongue, which is enameled red. Designer's stamp on back: "Christian Dior / New York, Inc." and size, partly illegible. 10 or 12.
Ensemble of navy ribbed silk. A) Blouse in New Look style with V-shaped neckline and 1" collar. Elbow length sleeves with 1" folded cuffs. Center front opening with hook & eye closure. Patch pockets at side hips. Unlined; petersham of black grosgrain ribbon with hook & eye. Designer's label at left side seam: "Christian Dior Original / Made In U.S.A. / Christian Dior-New York Inc." B) Skirt of matching silk. Street length, A lined with pleats at 1" waistband. Center back zipper. Unlined.
Ensemble of navy-blue and slightly lighter silk organza composed of vertical hand-faggoted bands of alternating shades of blue giving light and dark effect. A) Blouse. Waist length with extending peplum to tuck under skirt. V-neckline, with collar of flat reveres with faggoted border. Short sleeves with turned-back cuffs. Center front opening with 4 self-covered buttons, a snap at the natural waistline, and 1 hook and loop and 5 hooks and eyes on peplum. The stripes and peplum are lined in pale gray organza, leaving the faggotted seams unlined. Underarm gussetts, with built-in pads. No labels. B) Skirt. Street length, full skirt matching bodice, with alternating vertical stripes, narrow navy blue waistband with center front opening with 5 self-covered buttons, and one hook and eye and two hook and loops on waistband, and a large snap which matches to bodice. Lined as blouse, with cream organza lining the stripes, but the faggotted bands left open, and with an inner skirt attached at waist of same cream silk organza, and with inner petticoat with flounce of cream tulle which has separate closure with 9 hook-and-eyes. No labels. Handwritten note on waistband "RH650 2P(?)" C) Inner shell camisole/lining for blouse of cream silk. Sleeveless, waist length, with V-neckline and center front opening with 7 hook-and-eye closures. Fitted slightly raised waistline. Designer's label at left side seam near hem: "Christian Dior / Paris" "Printemps-Ete 1953"; "Made in France"; 34419(?) Handwritten label underneath designer's label: "58.889"
(At Left) Evening ensemble of brown silk shantung. The camisole is sleeveless, with a boat neckline. Center back closure with 10 small circular buttons covered with matching fabric. The blouse is lined in dark brown silk, and has an inner structure of net and metal boning. The understructure extends below the top to give structure to the skirt. The inner net and boning layer has a center back closure of 14 hook-and-eyes, matching along same line as outer closure. The skirt is of matching materials, A-line, below-the-knee length. It has a 2" waistband decorated with horizontal ruching. Center-back zipper closure with two hook-and-eyes in waistband. The skirt has an attached black rayon gorgette underslip, and an attached black nylon petticoat. The petticoat has a horsehair braid incorporated in the hem for stiffening. The matching swing coat is calf length, with a rolled collar and short sleeves. It is constructed with several layers of organza for structure and a tuck panel around the coat for decoration and flounce. Lined in brown silk. There are no labels in the garment. Photograph is from the exhibition "Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers", held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows suit as displayed. From the original collection of the Dallas Museum of Fashion, which later became the Texas Fashion Collection.
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