Ensemble of blue silk crepe with black and white print, consisting of: A) Tunic top of silk crepe. Short, bat wing sleeves with insert of black, rectangular material at shoulder line. Mock V-neck opening backed with same material and ties of self. Center back zipper. Unlined. Designer's label at back zipper: "Adrian / Original" B) Skirt of same fabric. Straight; below knee-length. Black crepe waistband. Zipper closure with slit at hem line. Unlined.
Navy blue two-piece skirt suit of wool consisting of: A. Fitted jacket with Peter Pan collar. Tab at top of jacket under neck extends two inches past center and buttons on left side with two round buttons. Jacket center opening has one hook at center and one button at waist. Full-length sleeves made in one piece with jacket front and back. Gusset under arm for ease of movement. Right sleeve is decorated with blue and grey stripe pattern which extends up sleeve and across onto tab. Vertical stripe starts from back waist and runs down front, forming plaid at shoulder and is gathered into a narrow band at waist. Stripe continues to hem of jacket and has fold of striped fabric coming from under band to form scarf-like effect. Back is made in 6 sections with plaid design at shoulder and stripes running horizontally and vertically and ending before the absolute center. Band at waist is continued on back right, but does not reach jacket center. Inside lined with blue silk. Designer's label at center back inside neck: "Adrian / Original" Retailer's label along left inside flap of opening: "The Fashion / Ben Wolfman Inc. / Houston" Label for original owner(?): "TJ McBryde" B: Blue straight skirt with hook and snap closure at left side of waistband and zipper fly. Grey stripe pattern starts at hip area and continues around skirt, not meeting at back center. Vertical stripes fall from right side, forming plaid at intersection of other stripe, and continues to hem. Front center has kick pleat. Skirt does not have label.
Hatlet of deep red satin. The close, curved crown is formed as a band that is worn across the wearer's head from ear to ear. The band is edged with a wide band of narrow pleated deep red satin, with ends that extend beyond the crown, forming crossed ends at sides. Lined in the same deep red satin, and with a deep red grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label: "Amy New York"
Coat of skunk fur. Hip length, of solid black fur in vertical stripes, with center front opening having three hook-and-eye closures. Elbow-length sleeves. Two slit pockets at hips. Lined in black silk crepe. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Annis Furs / Detroit"
Pillbox style hat of pink silk gabardine. Four horizontal pleats around front of brim form zigzag folds at sides. Slightly rounded top. Center back has hanging tab ending in tie bow of self. 2-1/4'' deep crown CF; 3 1/2'' deep CB. Lined in white silk with pink grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Two combs at sides for securing hat to wearer's head. Maker's label hand embroidered on inside crown: "Jo Bailey Hats"
Ensemble in black and oatmeal colored wool, consisting of: A) Jacket: Semi-fitted wool in abstracted herringbone weave with black and oatmeal yarns running double throughout; moderately rounded neckline with asymmetrical mandarin collar; full-length raglan sleeves with overarm seam and undersleeve; double breasted front opening with eight round, plastic, oatmeal colored buttons and four bound buttonholes supplemented by single hook & eye inside lap at waist; vertical welt pockets on front lined in black silk; fully lined in black silk. Designer's label at inside collar: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris" and "Made in France". Retailer's label at inside side seam: "Neiman-Marcus" B) Dress: Knee length dress; bodice of black wool gauze with jewel neckline; sleeveless; lapped centerfront opening with four round self-covered buttons and bound buttonholes supplemented by single snap and hook & eye; bodice gathers into seam at natural waistline; gathered hip yoke of same gauze; straight skirt of matching herringbone has three snaps at centerfront opening; folded hem; gauze is lined in black silk organdy; skirt is unlined.
Hat of reddish-pink wool. The derby style hat has a domed crown made of four sections of cloth that meet at center. Each section has chevrons of stitching, which point towards the center of the crown, giving a subtle quilted effect. Narrow brim rolls upwards at sides and back. A black suede(?) bow is applied to base of crown at center left. Inside base of crown is a band of pink grosgrain ribbon. Sewn to inner ribbon band is maker's label: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris" and label "Made in France"
Pillbox hat of black velvet. The low, cylindrical, slightly domed hat is completely covered in black velvet. Affixed to the center front of the hat is a roughly fan-shaped aigrette of simulated gems and metallic braid with a surmounting spray of white feathers. The crown is lined in black fabric, and has a black grosgrain ribbon running along the inside bottom edge. Sewn to the inner ribbon is a plastic comb to secure the hat to the wearer's head. No labels. The aigrette is attributed to Robert Goossens, of Paris, who is known to have supplied to Balenciaga.
Two-piece gray faille moire wool and nylon suit. Jacket is long, with wide notched collar, is double breasted, has bound button holes, and buttons below waist. It has a sculptural double-breasted front panel, that maintains a vertical linear center front, rounded shape visually flanks stomach area. The skirt is straight; slightly below knee length.
Hat of straw and velvet. The short, cylindrical crown is of woven natural-colored straw, with off-center "peak". The crown is edged along top with a narrow band of orange velvet. The sides of the crown are covered in black velvet, and there is an inner band of black velvet-covered straw that extends below the sides of the crown. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. On the band, a small sewn start designates the front of the hat. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Custom Made", and with a (later?) price tag attached. Accompanied by a short hatpin, the head covered with woven straw matching the hat.
Hat of red straw. Conical crown is of woven red straw, with a flattened top. The wide, floppy brim is of matching straw, constructed as a separate piece, sewn to the crown. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon inside base of crown. A black cord is attached to either side at inner hatband to help secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc." Price tag affixed to inner band: "75 [cents symbol]"
Hat of brown lace and beads. The beret-style hat is formed as a low crown of brown lace decorated with bronze-colored beads in loops and strings. The hat is lined in white net, and has an inner hatband of dark brown grosgrain ribbon. A stitched "star" on the inner hatband indicates the front of the hat, and two attached small plastic combs help secure the hat to wearer's head. Joint designer's/retailer's label is sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Original / expressly for / Neiman Marcus"
Sailor-style hat of tan straw and brown yarn. The "crushable" hat has a tan/brown straw crown, slightly domed, with base of brown crocheted yarn. The circular brim, set off-center to the crown, is of double-thickness. The join between the crochet band and the brim has inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Original" When not worn, or padded, the had "deflates" or "crushes" down, the crocheted section not significantly supporting the crown.
Calotte-style hat of light brown velvet. Beige and red feathers as trim on front brim and bow of self on back. Lined in golden yellow satin with grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Small stitched mark on band showing front of hat. Designer's Label: "Hattie Carnegie" Retailer's Label: "Neiman-Marcus / Salon"
Folding fan. Plain shaped wooden sticks and guards. Leaf of cream paper with thin border of brown. On the leaf are three printed vignettes: 1) view of a street through an archway, titled "Calle de Cuchilleros"; 2) View of the exterior of a church/mission, titled "San Antonio de la Florida"; 3) Scene of a bear shaking a tree, entitled "Madrid". Maker's stamp on back of leaf at guard: "Casa de Diego" Created between 1950 and 1986.
Calotte. The hat has a conical crown of stiffened green net overlaid with green straw woven/plaited loops and with attached artificial cherries and leaves. The calotte (also spelled "calot") has a thin green velvet trim along base of crown. Label sewn into inner edge of crown: "Styled by / Coralie", with "Finlan" written on edge of label. Behind the Coralie label is a Union label.
Toque of black satin and mink. The crown of the hat is formed as a cylinder of heavy black satin, with slightly domed flat top. Around crown is wide band of black mink, almost as wide as the hat is tall. A small band of black satin is visible below mink band, and a small bow of heavy black satin is affixed at center front. Hat is lined in black satin, with inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband, and two small attached plastic combs to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label at inside hatband: "Styled by / Coralie"
Hat in the form of a modified turban. The slightly flattened conical crown is flat across the top, with a roll at top and bottom. The lower brim gently undulates, forming lower areas at sides. The whole is covered in gold braid, spirals of black and gold ribbon, various colored rhinestones and blue/green/opalescent beads. The hat is lined in black satin(?), with black grosgrain inner hatband. Designer's label sewn into crown: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York"
Pillbox hat of fine brown straw. Cylindrical crown has inset, slightly domed top created by having an inner pillbox hat of same design. Lower edge of crown is gently scalloped and edged in brown grosgrain ribbon. Hat has fine brown veiling attached between crown of inner and outer hats, around sides and front of hat, and two pearl-headed pins at sides. Lined in black fabric and edged with brown grosgrain ribbon. Small applied cream ribbon bow on inner ribbon indicates back of hat. Designer's label inside: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York". Label is so large that part of the word "Paris" and part of "York" are cut-off.
Turban of pleated brown wool jersey. The high-crowned turban is composed of pleated concentric bands of fabric. The hat is lined in mesh covered with cream/pale yellow silk, and with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. A stitched mark on headband shows front of hat, and small applied ribbon bow shows back. Designer's label inside crown: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York". Label is large, almost reaching from headband to headband across inside of crown.
Pair of ladies' red leather Mary Jane style pumps. Designed with rounded toes and closed by a low and thin Mary Jane strap and buckle just above the vamp. Sole of natural black leather with black wooden heel. Medium-height broad heel with a slight curve at the back, broadening to align with the heel seat and a slightly concave straight front, similar to a Cuban heel. Stamped on the shank inside left shoe in gilt: "Neiman-Marcus" Stamped on the shank inside right shoe in gilt: "Best shoes you can buy are the best buy! / Delman / De Luxe" Stamped on the heel inside both shoes in gilt: Delman Logo (Image of a woman at a shoe fitting with the description: Delman / New York / Chicago / London / Paris) Handwritten inside shoe: "C81092 / 5223-6aw / 6aa / Petti"
Cocktail dress of dark navy blue silk satin. Strapless with fitted bodice. Open pleats over bust with mock bow and attached 14'' wide stole lined with silk organza which drapes over right shoulder and down back. Straight skirt with small inverted pleats at each hip bone, 23 1/2'' long from waist. Center back 24'' zipper closing with hook and eye at top and waist line. French netting, boned bustier with black grosgrain ribbon and hook & eye closure on inside. Skirt is lined to hip front and back with navy taffeta. Designer's label at center front bottom of bustier: "Christian Dior Original / Made In U.S.A. / Christian Dior - New York, Inc. / Trademark" Retailer's label to left of designer's label: "Neiman-Marcus"
Daytime ensemble of brown silk consisting of: A) Dress. Below-knee length, the dress has princess seaming to create fitted bodice, with wide V-neckline, 3/4" shoulder straps and straight skirt. 1" belt of self fabric from front darts to center back. Center back zipper. Unlined. Designer's label: "Christian Dior Original / Made in U.S.A. / Christian Dior - New York Inc." Retailer's label: "Harzfeld's / Kansas City" B) Jacket. Cropped jacket is pleated in front and back to a 3" waistband on which are three brass buttons 1/2" wide, and bound buttonholes. Long sleeves with 1-1/2" cuffs and one matching button per sleeve. Band collar has 10" tie ends and L-shaped lapel. Unlined.
Dress of blue/gray silk satin or peau de soie, in shirtwaist style. Notched collar. Self covered button at center front with bound buttonhole. Waist seam; 3/4 length skirt with pleats on front and back of skirt. Half-length sleeves with self covered button, turn-back cuffs and bound buttonhole. Armhole princess seams front and back. Tucks on front and back bodice. Center back zipper. Lined in blue organdy with 1/2" blue grosgrain ribbon petersham. With belt of self-fabric forming a bow at center front with hook & eye and snap closure. Designer's label at center back seam below zipper: "Christian Dior - New York, Inc."
Hat of shiny beige/light brown straw. Formed somewhat as a turban, the strands (approximately 50) of straw are wrapped and swirled around stiff net base creating a high, somewhat conical crown with an effect like a turban or a high-piled swirl of blond hair. Completely covered with beige veiling. Dark muted orange satin binding (1/2 inch deep) around edge of crown. Designer's label sewn to inner edge: "Christian Dior / chapeaux / Paris~New York"
Pillbox hat of cream satin. The slightly domed crown of the hat is of cream satin, inset within a thick ring of the same fabric which forms the sides of the crown. Applied to the sides of the crown are black velvet ribbon semi-bows which form "T" shapes, set alternately upright and inverted. The hat is lined in golden tan fabric, and has a white grosgrain ribbon inner hatband around the inside base of the crown. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Christian Dior New York Inc.". Retailer's label sewn to inside lining of crown: "Neiman-Marcus / Made to Order". Accompanied by a single short hatpin with faux pearl head.
Jockey cap of navy felt. Hemispherical crown formed of 6 triangular segments. At top of crown is a small green enameled "apple" shaped charm, one green enameled spherical bead, and one orange enameled bead. At front of cap is crescent-shaped bill with inner wired edge. Cap is unlined. No labels in cap.
Pillbox hat of woven green ribbon-like paper. The pillbox hat has a low, slightly "dimpled" crown, and is formed of woven green paper ribbon in various widths. Lower edge is turned up and folded over. At back is a flat bow of same material. Hat is unlined, with pale green grosgrain ribbon along inside lower edge as inner hatband. Attached to either side at inner hatband is a small plastic comb to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label inside at back: "Sue Dooley / Dallas"
Pillbox hat of brown woven ribbon-like paper with a lustrous finish. The shallow cylindrical crown is slightly concave at top, and has a slightly undulating lower edge. Hat is lined with a printed fabric with Asian-style scene of bamboo and birds, edged with tan/beige grosgrain ribbon, and a band of gold rickrack. Attached at each side at inner edge is a small plastic comb to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label inside at back: "Sue Dooley / Dallas"
Pillbox hat of brown fur. The pillbox crown is formed of a cylinder of brown fur. Lined with metallic weave fabric with stripes of red, green, gold metallic, edged with brown grosgrain ribbon and with a band of gold rickrack. At each side, attached to inner band, is a small plastic comb to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label at inside back edge: "Sue Dooley / Dallas"
Hat of royal blue velveteen felt. Somewhat in the cloche style, the hat consists of a cylindrical crown tapering slightly to the flat top. The sides of the hat are covered in a wide band of same fabric which wraps around hat and secures in a giant square buckle covered in same fabric. Hat is unlined, with black grosgrain inner hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hazel Eller - Custom Made" Stamped inside crown: "Borsalino / Antica Casa"
Evening gown of black satin. Full length; skirt flares slightly. Fitted bodice with low neckline and 1" shoulder straps. Off-center front closure with six satin covered buttons reinforced with two snaps at the neckline and a hook & eye at the center of the opening; bound buttonholes. . Petersham of black, 1" grosgrain ribbon; unlined. Combined designer/manufacturer/retailer label at center back neckline: "Designed in America by / Jacques Fath / for Joseph Halpert / Neiman-Marcus"
Evening gown and stole of silk satin; 2 sided fabric. Gown of deep red silk satin; sleeveless; sheath; large bow draped over right shoulder; fitted skirt; flounce from side seam creates half-circle; 2 self covered button accents; inner hem has horsehair braid and netting for structure; With stole of silk satin; deep red and dark blue; floor length; connected to make slight armholes.
Calotte style hat of pale olive green felt with multicolored pheasant feathers on the left front. Double rolls of same felt form edge of hat which cross at front where meets feather trim. Net veil on front. Two hatpins with heads of matching felt. Unlined with inner headband of light gray/green grosgrain ribbon. Maker's label on inside inner headband: "Frances / Dallas, Texas" Paper tag attached to inner headband at back of hat.
Calotte style hat of brown straw cloth with brown veil. Left brim of hat circles to form a loop that folds under the right side of the hat. Designer's label with two set in rhinestones on inside of crown: "John Fredericks / New York" Vertical portion of designer's label: "Made in America"
Capulet style hat of red silk faille with 3 folds of self on either side. Red, slightly stiffened nose veil. Designers label: "MR. JOHN" Measurements: (Veil not included in measurements) L: 13 cm W: 49 cm H: 11 cm
Cloche hat of fine light brown/tan straw. The domed crown of straw has a looped segment of woven straw "ribbon" attached at side, with trailing ends. The irregular brim, woven in one piece with crown, has an asymmetrical crease at side. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of off-white grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "John Frederics 'Charmer'".
Cocktail dress of yellow and orange silk chiffon. Fitted bodice of horizontal, loosely pleated yellow chiffon has two orange, horizontal stripes at waist and above. Double, spaghetti style shoulder straps. Inner support with boning and petersham. Skirt is composed of under layers coral pink and yellow silk and outer layers of orange and yellow chiffon, creating a full appearance. Mid-length; zip-back and hook & eye closure. Retailer's label at left side seam: "Neiman-Marcus"
Evening dress of pale champagne silk chiffon crepe; fitted bodice of silk chiffon with silk satin ribbon trim, and vertical stripes which go down to hem of skirt. Silk satin ribbon forms a V from center-front bodice and wraps over shoulders to back of dress. Ribbon bow at center back falls to middle of skirt and hides a zipper and hook&eye closure. Bodice has interior support with boning and petersham. Mid-length skirt has many layers of chiffon creating a full appearance; skirt is lined in matching silk. Designer's label at left side seam: "Galanos" Retailer's label on lining at bottom of back skirt seam: "Neiman-Marcus"
Hat of sherry black straw (artificial?). Crown is flat-topped and cylindrical. The brim is turned up against the sides of the crown, and has a textured black vinyl bow applied at front. The hat is unlined, with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label: "Gladys & Belle / 20 West 57th St. New York"
Calotte style hat of black felt with rolled under brim. Cluster of back feathers along brim covered by black veil. Small bow of self. Stamp on inside crown: "100% Wool / Glenover / Henry Pollak, Inc. / New York"
Small picture hat of straw. The fine, natural color straw crown is domed, and encircled by a band of beige grosgrain ribbon at its base. The ribbon has a bow at the front. The wide, oval brim is set off-center to the crown, and is edged with the same beige grosgrain ribbon. The brim has two "V" cuts into it at front, forming projecting "saw teeth". At the base of each "V" cut, on top and underneath brim, is a bow of the same grosgrain ribbon. The hat is unlined, and there is an inner hatband of beige grosgrain ribbon. Label sewn to inner hatband: "Henrys / Dallas". Henrys has been identified alternately as maker or retailer.
Picture hat. The domed crown is of navy blue twill, with a navy blue grosgrain ribbon band tied at base of crown, with bow at back with trailing ribbons. At front of crown is a second bow of stylized foliate form, created out of stiffened rolled twill or grosgrain, with two red straw cylindrical "buds" extending upwards. The wide, down-turned brim is of red straw. Inside crown is navy blue grosgrain ribbon hatband. Sewn to inner ribbon band is label: "Henry's / Originals / Dallas"
Small straw picture hat. Low domed crown of a dark/purple woven straw. Wide, down-turned brim of same material starts high on the crown, and is edged in black velvet. At the back of the hat, starting at top of brim, is an applied spray of artificial daisies and leaves in green fabric, with black velvet bow. Unlined. Inside, at base of crown, is brown/purple grosgrain ribbon headband. Label sewn to inner hatband: "Henrys / Dallas" Henrys has been identified alternately as maker or retailer. Gift of Mr. Ian Dellar.
Small picture hat of black straw. The domed black straw crown is edged in black velvet ribbon and is surmounted by a "starburst" of pleated black grosgrain fabric with a vertically projecting "tab" of grosgrain ribbon backed with black velvet. The matching straw brim is circular along the front 2/3 of the hat, and then "cut back" along the back 1/2, forming two slight corners at sides. The brim is edged in black velvet ribbon. The crown has an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Label sewn to inner hatband: "Henrys / Dallas". Henrys has been identified alternately as maker or retailer. Accompanied by a single short hatpin with simulated black pearl head.
Hat of golden cloth. The pillbox style hat is formed as a low, cylindrical crown of stiffened mesh with flattened top, covered with with a woven golden cloth, pleated horizontally on sides. The top of the crown is embellished with beading, using simulated pearls, small bronze-colored beads, large oval cabochon opalescent translucent beads, faceted "crystal" beads, and crescent-shaped translucent beads. The hat is unlined, the inner mesh visible and showing embroidered pattern of pale green leaves/branches. Around inside lower edge of crown is an inner hatband of green grosgrain ribbon. Affixed to inner hatband on either side is a small plastic comb to help secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's (retailer's?) label sewn to inner hatband: "Henrys / Dallas".
Pair of striped satin pumps. Shoes of pintucked satin in blues, greens, cream, pinks, purples, etc., with stripes running across vamp, and vertically up the sides and upper part of heel, and horizontally across the spike. Each shoe marked inside vamp: "7AA A2649". Stamped on left shoe: "Herbert Levine"; Stamped on right shoe: "Neiman-Marcus".
Pair of pumps of pale green metallic lamé. The shoes are designed with pointed toes which are squared-off at the tip, and a squared vamp. The stiletto heels are covered in same fabric, and flare slightly to base. Maker's label stamped inside: "Herbert Levine" Retailer's label stamped inside: "Neiman Marcus" Handwritten inside: "6 AAA 7913-52D / 25269"
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