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Neiman Marcus Collection Scrapbook: Volume 1, 1905-1948
Album containing catalog entries for items in the Texas Fashion Collection including a photograph of the item and text describing information known about the designer and manufacture date, provenance, and physical descriptions of the items.
Dress and stole
A) Dress in red and green plaid; strapless; boning in CF and side seams only; waist seam; skirt pleats at CF, CB, and side seams; one large round patch pocket on front right side of skirt that gathers into a band at the lip of pocket; the skirt is full and cut on the bias with a red lining underlayer; the bodice is cut on the straight grain and has a gathered panel over the bust and a pleated band just under and along the side of the bust; CB zipper; B) matching belt; C) matching wrap with wool yarn fringe on the ends.
Skirt suit
Suit of navy blue wool twill and navy blue and white houndstooth check. A) Jacket has fronts of the check and everything else is of the navy blue. V-neck with pointed collar applied, single breasted closing with 5 self covered buttons and bound buttonholes, neckline and front trimmed with a piping of red wool, princess seams, long sleeves with pointed turn-back cuffs, fully lined. Designer label: Curry's / Chicago B) Skirt straight-line, side zipper, kick pleat at back hem.
Wool dress
Dress of navy blue wool gabardine. Square neck; long sleeves. Slight peplum at waist. Straight skirt center front closure with nine 2" and 1-and-1/2" black patent leather buckles. One buckle on cuffs of sleeves. Label at inside seam near hem: "Chas. Levy & Son / Beverly Hills / Mrs. Ben G. Sterling / Date 8/31/37 No 2001", partly filled out by typewriter on pre-printed label.
Wedding ensemble
(a) Wedding dress of off-white lace; floor length; train; round neckline; eight pairs of snaps and one hook and eye at left side seam; Juliet sleeve; six sets of snaps at sleeve cuffs; fitted bodice; full skirt. (b) Slip of off-white silk satin; train; rounded neckline; thin straps. (c) Oversized bow of off-white silk; four loops; cinched at middle with green string. (d) Veil. Tulle, flowers. In very poor condition, replica would need to be made for display.
Floral net dress
A) Dress of off-white net with floral applique and silver sequins; full length; scalloped round neck; cap sleeves; full skirt; side zipper. B) Under dress of off-white synthetic fabric with net overlay; full length; sleeveless; seamed bodice; thin straps and neckline edged with light pink organza; skirt is fitted through the waist and then flares into a full skirt; wide stiffened hem; side zipper.
Day dress
Day dress of white organza and pale aqua cotton with floral motif embroidered. Fitted bodice with moderate square neckline, trimmed with a flat collar consisting of gathered ivory lace with three bands of twill ribbon insertion and stylized floral lace rosettes, Short puffed sleeves trimmed to match the collar, bodice gathers slightly center front into the raised waist seam, detailed waist seam positioned slightly above the natural waistline, flared. ten panel below-the-knee skirt with turned hem and two patch pockets placed over the front hipline, trimmed with gathered ivory lace, zipper closure in left side seam from bust to hip level; No label, Appears to be homemade.
Graduation dress
Dres of ivory white cotton organdy. Round neckline; short, ruffled sleeves. Long, tiered, ruffled, and scalloped skirt.
Slip
Knee-length. princess-line. white cotton. camisole slip. Shaped neckline with eyelet trim and eyelet shoulder straps. The shoulder straps' eyelet is stitched over white cotton twill tape. Princess-line six panel shell with turned hem. There is a 4" wide flounce of eyelet lace applied 4" above the hemline. The initials "B.H." are written in brown ink inside the back neckline. below the right shoulder strap. The slip is homemade and appears to be a petticoat from 1910-1915 that has been altered and remade.
Skirt suit
Black day suit, heavy weave (wool?) Two pieces. A) Jacket, long sleeves, notched collar, faux pockets, single CF closure B) Skirt.
Red evening dress
Evening dress of red acetate taffeta, full-length, off-shoulder, full long sleeves, shirred bodice, round neck, skirt gathered in 3 graduated rows.
Sheer dress
Dress of ivory cotton net and lace with pink ribbon trim, 3 at waist and 1 around cuffs; self ruffles.
Gold Beaded Dress
Dress of silver gray and gold silk and gold beads; empire waist; sleeveless; rounded V-neckline which dips low in back; snap closure on left side; bodice is silver gray with gold beads in floral motif; skirt is gold with a gold and silver belt that angles down in front; skirt has the appearance of two tiers made by folding the skirt up under itself around the knees.
Evening coat and muff
A) Evening coat of powder blue silk velvet with fur sleeves and fur along the collar. ; Full length; Sleeves. Buttons up the front, lowest button detached. B) Muff of fur
Crochet dress
Dress of crocheted cotton. Petal collar. sleeveless. fitted waist. mid-calf length. straight skirt. No labels.
Evening dress
Dress with scarf and matching slip. A) Dress of sheer chiffon with floral print in pink, red, green, and brown; long skirt; peach lining; V-neck; flutter sleeves with shoulders cut out; flutter hem; deep V with ruffles in back. B) Slip. C) Matching scarf with ruffles
Velvet evening dress
Evening ress of white textured velvet; Idlewild ball gown; copied from a dress by Madeleine Vionnet; tiny silver beads around neckline and armholes; sleeveless; bias cut; wrap style bodice in front and back; empire waistline; flared skirt; full-length; low V neckline in front and back.
Debutante dress
A: Idelwild debutante gown of white slipper satin with tulle overdress embellished with velvet flower appliques. Sleeveless. Underneath is a floor length slipper satin petticoat. B: Tie/belt of white ribbon Size 10
Evening dress
Evening gown of peach orange-pink georgette with leaf pattern of silver thread and rhinestone studs. Sleeveless, with off-shoulder neckline widened by use of ruffles. Deep v back with rhinestone T-strap. Natural waistline with peach velvet sash tying in bow at back w/long streamers. Full-length skirt slim to knees then flares slightly, dipping very slightly at back. Both ruffles and scalloped hem edged w/rhinestones. Fabric joined at hip indicating lowered waistline effect. Velvet sash not of same workmanship as dress, indicating alterations to bring up to later style.
Silk dress
Square and floral printed green silk daytime dress; short-sleeved; triangle cutouts on collar
Silk dress
Dress of gold metallic silk. Sleeveless; full-length; the hem curves up gently in front; slim silhouette; high neckline in front which drops to the waist in back; a red velvet sash starts at the back shoulder and drops to the waist where it forms a bow and hangs down to the hem.
Evening dress
Evening dress of pink pearl-tone heavy silk crepe; draped; left side has a narrow shoulder strap; right side has the drape rolled and stitched onto the shoulder strap; full-length; the drape wraps around the hips of the dress and snaps onto the dress at the waistline; snaps closing the dress are hidden under drape; the right side of the hem flows up into the roll on the right shoulder. Label on front side seam: A Registered Original Design with Fashion Originators Guild Label above snaps: 370NM371/ muted pink full-length evening gown/ Neiman-Marcus/ Designer: unknown.
Dress and cape
A) Evening dress of off white crepe. Shirring at bustline; fitted waist; shirring at front hip; sheer pleated chiffon at front and back. B) Cape of off white chiffon with white fur trim.
Cotton jumper
Jumper of knitted tan cotton yarn. Scoop neck. Empire elastic waist; Ribbon belt woven through waist line. 2 1/2" straps that tie at shoulders. Below-knee length. No label
Ribbon ensemble
Ensemble of red ribbon knit. A) Top of self knit with stemmed flower designs at upper left and lower right accented with tiny pearls and multi-colored rhinestones. Bermuda collar; short sleeves; fitted with side-zip closure under left arm and short zip closure at center-back neckline. Unlined, with attached shoulder-pads. Labels: At bottom of side zipper, inside: "Neiman-Marcus / Sports Shop" At side: "Suzanne / Handknitting / Original New York" B) Skirt of self-knit is mid-length and A-line with side-zip closure. Unlined. No labels. C) Belt of self-knit backed on grosgrain ribbons, fits around waistband of top. 5/8" wide x 29 1/2" long. No labels.
Wedding shoes
Slingback pumps of off-white silk. rounded toe; small heel; beige lace detail on toes. Decorative buckle on straps. Match wedding dress (2004.014.044). Left Shoe: 235 Volk / Dallas Right Shoe: 235 Volk/ Dallas Measurements: L: 21 cm W: 7 cm H: 9 cm Heel: 6.5 cm / 2.5 in.
Leather shoes
Shoes of silver leather; strappy heels with open toe and heel; 7 strap vamp; buckle comes from sides and meets in back, buckles around ankle; 1" x 3/4" at base. Measurements: Length 22.5cm Width 7.5cm Height 15.5cm Heel 8cm /3 1/8in (@axis) Left Shoe: A HARRIS / & CO. / DALLAS, TEXAS; 8S 3979 Right Shoe: Pre-View / New York / by Tupper; 88 3979
Slides
Pair of black stain house mules with 3/4" heel. 1/4" platform. Open toe. Vamp covered with black sequins. Full label: "Saks Fifth Avenue / Size 6M / Gustinettes" Measurements: length 24cm Width 8cm Height 3.5 cm Heel 2.5 cm / 1 in (@ axis) Left Shoe: Gustinettes / 6m Right Shoe: Saks-Fifth Avenue
Leather shoes
Pair of white leather shoes. Designed with a rounded open toe, the shoes have white leather uppers with straps across instep that cross and connect sides. Uppers edged with narrow sewn edge. Modified chunky Louis heel covered in white leather. Stamped inside: "Bob Shoe / For Style and Comfort" and "Made in / Hong Kong" Size 4 1/2B L: 22 cm W: 7 cm H: 11 cm Heel: 4.5 cm / 1.75 in.
Peep-toe shoes
Pair of pumps of rust brown suede. The shoes are designed with a rounded, open toe, and a reddish-brown grosgrain ribbon bow across vamp. The suede upper is pierced with small holes all-over the toebox and sides. The 2 3/8" high heels are of a modified Louis style. Maker's label stamped inside: "Delman / New York * Chicago * London * Paris" Retailer's label stamped inside: "Bergdorf / Goodman" Measurements: L: 21.5 cm W: 7 cm H: 13.5 cm Heel: 6 cm / 2 3/8 in.
Leather shoes
Heeled shoes of white leather, round toe box, brouging arches parallel to round toe box and following throat on vamp, straps and closure creating higher throat, low heels, insoles, Size 5B L: 21 cm W: 7 cm H: 13 cm Heel: 6 cm / 2 3/8 in. Left Shoe: Bob Shoe / For Style & Comfort Right Shoe: Bob Shoe / For Style & Comfort
House slippers
House shoes of pink and tan with multi-colored beaded flowers on toes, rounded toe box, moderate vamp, strapless, heelless, insoles of light brown. Measurements Length 24.5cm Width 7.8cm Height 1.5cm
Spectator shoes
Pumps of white suede and black leather segments. The shoes of white suede are designed with a slightly pointed toe, open at front with a small inverted "V" shape, the front of the toe-box overlaid with a black leather trim. The instep with black narrow leather lace-up details and bow. Wedge heel of white suede with black leather horizontal bands. Designer's stamp inside left shoe: "by Johansen / Smartest Since 1876" Retailer's stamp inside right shoe: "Ernest Grissom's / Abilene" Measurements: L:23 cm W: 7 cm H: 14.5 cm Heel: 7.5 cm / 3 in.
Day suit
Daytime suit of navy blue/white flecked wool tweed. A: Jacket in short fitted style; cut down to waist in front with four navy concave buttons on waist-coat style closing. Wide revers cut into coat at mid-shoulder and extend to waist closing, finished with saddle stitching in blue. Two double welt pockets at front sides. Long sleeves, each with two matching, nonfunctional buttons at cuff. Lined in dark blue silk; padded shoulders. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Jane / 28 Place Vendôme" B: Skirt in slim, slightly A-lined style with saddle stitching outlining front panel to hem. Pleat at center back near hem. Opening at left with two hook & eyes on black grosgrain waistband with four snaps behind left side of panel. Unlined.
Wood and leather clogs
Beach clogs of painted wood, and red and yellow leather. The thick wooden soles are painted in a marbled pattern of greens and yellows on red ground. The toe-box is formed of two wide crossed leather straps, one red, the other yellow, each affixed to the sole by large-headed nails/tacks. The heels have red silk cord which is threaded through hole passing through the sole and tied around wearer's ankles. The modified French heels are painted to match the rest of the soles. Measurements: Length 23cm Width 7cm Height 8.5cm at heel without straps) Heel 8.5cm (2 7/8") high.
Leather shoes
Shoes of brown suede. Black piping around opening; rounded tongue; small stacked heel. L: 27 cm W: 7.5 cm H: 9.5 cm Heel: 3 cm / 1 1/8 in. Left Shoe: Giavanni / New York Designers Right Shoe: Giavanni / New York Designers
Patterned dress
Dress of red, yellow, and black printed silk; dress is draped from a single piece of fabric; pin tucks and pleats at arm seams and down center front; floor length; collarless; zipper closure at center front with self belt tie; short sleeves; unlined.
Coat dress
Coat of black silk velvet, with a white fur peter-pan collar, fitted waist, full length flared skirt, sleeves with fullness at top padded into a round shape. Fastens with 4 self-covered buttons.
Evening dress
A) Evening dress of moss green rayon crepe with gathered knots down CF; bias-cut dress and slip; sleeveless; full length. B) Slip. Labels in slip: Designer's label: "Hartnell / London" Retailer's label: "Specially made / in England for / Best & Co. / New York".
Evening dress
Black silk jersey knit formal dress of black satin A) Jersey bolero jacket with sleeves over shoulder and wide crushed band of satin for rib cage. B) Matching floor length black pleated skirt Size 10
Tea gown
Tea gown of purple panne velvet with crepe midriff band and sash. Skirt flared in back with triangular gores, ending in small train. Neckline deep V and gathered under bust above midriff band. Padded shoulders, sleeves long and narrow at wrist, but wide at shoulder with folded effect for added interest. Skirt slashed in front. attached scarf Size 12 Retailer's label: "Neiman Marcus Co."
Evening ensemble
Evening ensemble. A) Short, fitted jacket of aqua wool crepe embroidered with gold metallic soutache braid along center front and rounded neckline. Long, darted gibson sleeves. Center front zipper closure. Unlined; shoulders supported with aqua fabric. Tag at center back neckline: "An original design / Registered / By a member of / Fashion Originators Guild / 2570" B) Evening dress of aqua rayon chiffon. Full length. Sweetheart neckline with triple spaghetti straps. Shirred bodice with scalloped hem. Two triangular gores at hemline to form circular skirt. Zipper closure at left side. Under layer of aqua synthetic satin.
Black silk crepe dress
Dress of black silk crepe and net. (A) Tunic has cowl neckline, sleeveless, mid-thigh length, fastens CB. (B) Dress has bodice of net, round neckline, bishop sleeves with tan and green embroidery and tie cuffs, 2 gored skirt, below-knee length. (C) Belt of self material.
Dinner gown
Long dinner gown of black wool; trimmed with black satin shawl collar, finely pleated, crossed in front surplice style extending just over hips; straight silhouette in front; bias cut back; slightly padded shoulders; uneven hemline in front where squared piece cut out in front of feet; With V shaped fluted white satin dickie in front, high neck band, which is listed on individual record.
Navy blue negligee
Negligee of navy silk chiffon. full length with lace trim at hem; lace at shoulder. straps with sheer bodice and ties at back waist.
Robe
Robe of black crochet knit "lace" with pink satin-silk band along neckline, sides of cf opening, and cuffs. Pink band gathered at top of shoulders. No closures. Built-in shoulder pads. No lining. Designer's label on right shoulder pad: "Tula"
Evening dress
Evening dress of black crepe with butterfly sleeves and collar of light blue satin. Label: Spectator Shorts Inc. / New York
Evening ensemble
Evening ensemble of nylon and silk. A) Shirt of pink nylon crepe; scoop V neck; 2 tiers of ruffles at neck; cap sleeves; slit down CB seam. B) Skirt of silk crepe; floor length; flared; ties in back; back hem is 2" longer than front; pink and white bands at hem, 2" pink, 3" white, 3" pink.
Teagown
Teagown of ivory silk velvet. Floor length with bias cut skirt and train. Long batwing sleeves are fitted at wrists and close with four self-covered buttons and loops. Center back closure of self-covered buttons and loops.
Spectator pumps
Brown and off-white leather spectator pump with round toe, brogue perforations, tortoise-shell block heels Measurements: L: 24 cm W: 7.5 cm H: 11 cm Heel: 5 cm (2 in.) Markings L&R: "I. Miller Ingenue"
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