Coat of novelty wool in pale blue, brown, white, and purple in a plaid weave design. Center front opening with one large brown button and bound buttonhole at neck. Collarless; knee-length; bracelet length sleeves. Lined in olive green satin. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Tissus / Jacques S. Fath / Paris / Made in / France"
Day dress in sheath style of turquoise blue wool knit. Knee-length, with short sleeves and banded collar. Diagonal, 2" welt pockets at side hips. Center back opening of 7 circular turquoise plastic buttons with bound buttonholes, two snaps at neckline, and two hook & eyes on collar. Lined in white synthetic. Designer's label at back neckline: "Modèle / Guy Laroche / Paris / Diffusé Par Maria Carine / Made in France" Handwritten style number label below designer label: "LR E6531 Rapp(?) 8" Retailer's(?) label at right side seam is cut: "i.m. / Made in France"
Ensemble of navy ribbed silk. A) Blouse in New Look style with V-shaped neckline and 1" collar. Elbow length sleeves with 1" folded cuffs. Center front opening with hook & eye closure. Patch pockets at side hips. Unlined; petersham of black grosgrain ribbon with hook & eye. Designer's label at left side seam: "Christian Dior Original / Made In U.S.A. / Christian Dior-New York Inc." B) Skirt of matching silk. Street length, A lined with pleats at 1" waistband. Center back zipper. Unlined.
Halter-style dress of black wool. Below-knee-length, with wide strap running from front up and behind neck. Straight neckline at front, with very low rounded edge at back - almost to mid-back. Center front with draped effect at waist, appearing "pulled" from hips, and with central front drape. 2 large pleats from waist at back. Center back opening with 5 self-covered buttons and bound buttonholes, supplemented with hook & eye at top and two hook & eyes at waist, and with zipper under edge of pleat at right of center back. Inner bodice of black net has boning and closes at center back with hook & eyes. Skirt lined in black silk. Country of Origin Label: "Made in France" located on front neckline at right center. Designer's Label at inside left on construction detail: "Made in France / Automne - Hiver 1952 / Christian Dior / Paris" and stamped "20951". Has handwritten style number tag beneath designer's label (mostly illegible): "50938" Retailer's label at back seam of skirt: "Neiman-Marcus"
Pumps of deep brown alligator leather. The shoes are designed with pointed toes, rounded at tips. The high, modified French heels taper from top to bottom, flaring slightly at base. Designer's stamp in both shoes: "Design par / Evins ... à Paris" Handwritten maker's notation in each: "FR 131A / 7AA" Handwritten notation: "#41821"
Evening dress of black silk taffeta. Street length; short sleeves. Scooped neckline with attached, pleated capelet/stole which secures to dress with snaps and white, 4-1/2" wide grosgrain ribbon bow at left. Bow buttons onto capelet/stole with small button covered in matching black taffeta. Straight skirt from natural waistline. Center back zipper with hook & loop. Lined in black organdy(?) with black grosgrain petersham. Designer's label on center back seam: "Christian Dior - New York Inc." Retailer's label on center back seam: "Neiman-Marcus" With accompanying belt, covered in matching black taffeta. Square buckle; 32" x 1-1/4".
Cocktail dress of dark navy blue silk satin. Strapless with fitted bodice. Open pleats over bust with mock bow and attached 14'' wide stole lined with silk organza which drapes over right shoulder and down back. Straight skirt with small inverted pleats at each hip bone, 23 1/2'' long from waist. Center back 24'' zipper closing with hook and eye at top and waist line. French netting, boned bustier with black grosgrain ribbon and hook & eye closure on inside. Skirt is lined to hip front and back with navy taffeta. Designer's label at center front bottom of bustier: "Christian Dior Original / Made In U.S.A. / Christian Dior - New York, Inc. / Trademark" Retailer's label to left of designer's label: "Neiman-Marcus"
Daytime dress of red silk faille. Street length. Short sleeves with turned-back edge. Shawl collar with button-down ends at front. Center front opening of 6 circular faceted red plastic buttons. Skirt gathers/pleats at waistline. Side slit pockets. Bodice partly lined in red silk. Red grosgrain ribbon petersham with hook & eye. Designer's label at right side seam: "Christian Dion Original / Made in U.S.A. / Christian Dior - New York Inc. / Trademark" Retailer's label at left side seam of skirt: "Neiman-Marcus". With accompanying belt of red leather covered with matching red silk faille. Elongated oval buckle covered with red silk faille except for tongue, which is enameled red. Designer's stamp on back: "Christian Dior / New York, Inc." and size, partly illegible. 10 or 12.
Ensemble of navy-blue and slightly lighter silk organza composed of vertical hand-faggoted bands of alternating shades of blue giving light and dark effect. A) Blouse. Waist length with extending peplum to tuck under skirt. V-neckline, with collar of flat reveres with faggoted border. Short sleeves with turned-back cuffs. Center front opening with 4 self-covered buttons, a snap at the natural waistline, and 1 hook and loop and 5 hooks and eyes on peplum. The stripes and peplum are lined in pale gray organza, leaving the faggotted seams unlined. Underarm gussetts, with built-in pads. No labels. B) Skirt. Street length, full skirt matching bodice, with alternating vertical stripes, narrow navy blue waistband with center front opening with 5 self-covered buttons, and one hook and eye and two hook and loops on waistband, and a large snap which matches to bodice. Lined as blouse, with cream organza lining the stripes, but the faggotted bands left open, and with an inner skirt attached at waist of same cream silk organza, and with inner petticoat with flounce of cream tulle which has separate closure with 9 hook-and-eyes. No labels. Handwritten note on waistband "RH650 2P(?)" C) Inner shell camisole/lining for blouse of cream silk. Sleeveless, waist length, with V-neckline and center front opening with 7 hook-and-eye closures. Fitted slightly raised waistline. Designer's label at left side seam near hem: "Christian Dior / Paris" "Printemps-Ete 1953"; "Made in France"; 34419(?) Handwritten label underneath designer's label: "58.889"
Cocktail dress of yellow lace and organza. The strapless, knee-length dress is of yellow inlay Spanish lace, with a slim line skirt that gathers at empire waist. It has a center back zipper with hook & eye closure at top. The bodice has a built-in corset-like support of boning and white net with white grosgrain ribbon waist band, the whole securing at back with 8 hook & eye closures. Lined in yellow silk. A removable, wide band of pleated yellow organza with tapered ends embellished with matching lace appliqués attaches with hooks and eyes at the waist of the dress, giving the effect of a narrow stole. The dress also has an accompanying very large matching yellow organza stole/wrap with matching lace appliqués at each end.
Coat dress of brown silk faille in "Ottoman" style. Knee or street length, with turndown collar and slight V neckline. Darts at bust for fit. Four button closures at center front with bound buttonholes, two above and two below waist/belt. Hook and eyes at waistline. Long sleeves with rolled cuffs and underarm gussets. In-seam pockets at sides. Flared skirt, pleated in back. Simulated "shirtwaist" decoration at front of skirt. Unlined. Designer's label at inside back collar: "Made in / France"; "Autumne-Hiver 1952 / Christian Dior / Paris"; stamped: "2????" [mostly illegible], on label With matching belt of brown suede. Self-covered buckle of narrow, vertical rectangles secures with hook and bar closure; 1-1/4" wide.
Cocktail ensemble of silver (pale lavender?) heavy faille moire consisting of: A) Cocktail dress. 3/4 length. Sleeveless with thin straps. Shallow V-neck. Natural waist with a bias cut, 1-1/4" set-in waistband between skirt and bodice trimmed with a center, non-functioning gray plastic button. Fitted bust with gores at bust and under-arm. Inverted pleats at front and back center. Center back zipper closure with hook & eye closure at base of bodice. Cream satin lining in bust which descends to become sheath inside skirt. Skirt lined with net. Designer's label at inside center bust: "Made in France / Autumne-Hiver 1952 / Christian Dior / Paris" Stamped "20445" on label. Handwritten label behind designer's label: "250516" B) Matching bolero jacket. Cropped to waist, long sleeves. No collar. Slight V at top of neckline, with deeper "inset" V at bottom. Center front opening with 3 circular gray buttons at base of jacket. Lined in cream silk matching lining of dress. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Made in France / Autumne-Hiver 1952 / Christian Dior / Paris" Stamped "20446" on label. Handwritten label behind designer's label: "250517"
Dress (evening?) of gray and gold brocade in floral pattern with small roses. Below knee length, with short sleeves, and with collarless rounded neckline, split at center front. Center front opening, which has: 3 self-covered circular buttons and bound button holes on bodice; one hook-and-loop tab in pleating; three hook and loop fasteners at dropped waist narrow waistband/belt; 6 functioning self-covered buttons and bound buttonholes on skirt; and with two faux bound button holes at bottom near hem. Full skirt is pleated into waistband. Large bow-form of self at center back of waistband. Lined in sheer cream silk. Designer's label at waist, right back: "Christian Dior - New York Inc."
Ensemble of a dark grey wool mohair consisting of: A) Jacket in boxed style. Single breasted with three large, circular, horn buttons and bound buttonholes; notched collar. Bracelet length, set-in sleeves. Lined in dark gray silk. Designer's label at inside center back neckline: "Made in France / Boutique / Christian Dior / Paris " and stamped on label: "10118" B) Dress. Sleeveless, with shallow, wide rounded neckline. Natural waist with an A-line over skirt and with under skirt of dark gray silk and 7" hemline of matching wool creating a tiered or multi-layer look. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Skirt lined in dark gray silk and bodice lined in black organza with black grosgrain ribbon petersham and black silk noil support structure.
Dress of blue/gray silk satin or peau de soie, in shirtwaist style. Notched collar. Self covered button at center front with bound buttonhole. Waist seam; 3/4 length skirt with pleats on front and back of skirt. Half-length sleeves with self covered button, turn-back cuffs and bound buttonhole. Armhole princess seams front and back. Tucks on front and back bodice. Center back zipper. Lined in blue organdy with 1/2" blue grosgrain ribbon petersham. With belt of self-fabric forming a bow at center front with hook & eye and snap closure. Designer's label at center back seam below zipper: "Christian Dior - New York, Inc."
Cocktail dress of beige wool crepe with faux black Astrakhan. The below-knee-length dress has a slight cowl neckline and bloused effect on the bodice and short sleeves. The full skirt is cartridge pleated into a wide band of black wool faux Astrakhan at slightly dropped waist. Dress has center back zipper on lining, connecting to outside of dress at waistline; blouse portion closes at center back with 8 covered snaps and 3 hook-and-eyes on neckline. Lined in cream organdy. Designer's label at center back seam: "Christian Dior - New York, Inc." Retailer's label to left of designer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" Union label on side of seam opposite retailer's label.
Day dress of red ribbed wool. Squared neckline; 3/4 length sleeves. Set-in waistline with attached 1-1/2" wraparound belt that closes in back with 2 hook & eyes and a snap. Below knee length. Center front opening with 7 hook & eyes on waistband and 7 red, circular, plastic buttons and bound buttonholes below waistband. Lined in red silk; bodice lining is sleeveless with center front zipper closure. Designer's label at right seam of bodice lining: "Automne-Hiver 1953 / Christian Dior / Paris / Made in France" and stamped on designer's label: "36416" Style number label under designer's label, illegible: "--6--4"
Daytime coat of beige linen. Single breasted with three cream colored, circular, plastic buttons and bound buttonholes. Long, raglan sleeves with 4" cuffs. Notched collar. Street length. Side slit pockets. Lined in black silk. Designer's label at inside right seam of lining under arm hole: "Christian Dior / Paris / Made in France"
Daytime ensemble of brown silk consisting of: A) Dress. Below-knee length, the dress has princess seaming to create fitted bodice, with wide V-neckline, 3/4" shoulder straps and straight skirt. 1" belt of self fabric from front darts to center back. Center back zipper. Unlined. Designer's label: "Christian Dior Original / Made in U.S.A. / Christian Dior - New York Inc." Retailer's label: "Harzfeld's / Kansas City" B) Jacket. Cropped jacket is pleated in front and back to a 3" waistband on which are three brass buttons 1/2" wide, and bound buttonholes. Long sleeves with 1-1/2" cuffs and one matching button per sleeve. Band collar has 10" tie ends and L-shaped lapel. Unlined.
Day suit of royal blue linen consisting of: A) Blazer. Single breasted with 4 circular, blue plastic buttons and bound buttonholes. Release tucks at bust line. Notched collar; hip length. Long, set-in sleeves with turned-back cuffs. Flap pockets at sides. Lined in matching blue silk jacquard with "Christian Dior" woven design. Designer's label at right side seam: "Christian Dior-New York / Original / *Trade Mark" Retailer's label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus" B) Skirt in straight style. Left side zipper with 3 hook & eyes. Center back 12" pleat. Unlined.
Pillbox style hat of mustard yellow dyed Persian lamb (aka astrakhan). The short, cylindrical crown has a flat, inset top of brown velvet, and slightly bowed sides of yellow curly Persian lamb. The hat is lined in a bronze silk(?), and has inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband and a brown elastic cord to help secure it to wearer's head. No labels.
Hat of red/orange straw. Constructed of bands of braided straw sewn in a spiral, the crown is a shallow cylinder with inset flattened top, and flares out at base to form the steeply sloped brim. At left side of crown is large applied flat bow of same straw. Unlined, the hat has an inner band of self, partly overlaid with cream velvet as a hatband.
Picture hat of light beige finely woven straw. The domed crown is encircled at base by a rolled tube of the same straw, into which at front is twined the stem of a beige silk satin rose. The wide, slightly floppy brim is strengthened at brim by rolling up and over. The hat is unlined, with inner beige grosgrain ribbon hatband, and two small elastic cords at sides to help secure combs/pins to help hold hat to wearer's head. No labels.
Evening hat of black silk satin and black ostrich feathers. hat is formed as a black satin domed crown totally covered with black ostrich feathers, forming a cloud around the wearer's head. At front, and running below feathers around head, is wide band of black silk satin, with a bow at front center. Hat is lined in black silk.
Hat created with a green and white silk scarf printed with a plaid pattern. The framework is a domed crown, higher at front than back, over which the silk scarf is fastened, pulled to back forming knotted ornament with trailing end. Lined in white mesh tulle, through which the under-structure can be seen. Inner pale green and white grosgrain ribbon hatband, with translucent brown plastic comb at inside front to secure to wearer's head. No designer's label.
Mushroom hat of red/orange baku straw. Uniquely cut crown is square with points at front and back. Four side panels are formed off of sides of square crown. Lined in white gauze material with red/orange grosgrain ribbon inner headband.
Hat of beige velour. Styled as a modified calotte (also spelled "calot"), the hat has a low domed crown and narrow rolled brim with extends slightly more in front to form a "visor" shape. Set at front of hat is an ornament of crossed large white and beige feathers, and smaller gray and white ones. Underside of visor lined with an off-white jersey-like material, and the hat has an inner hatband of dark gray beige grosgrain ribbon overlaid with silver rickrack and pink lace. Maker's label: "Chapeaux / Paris...Chicago" Stamped inside crown: "Midi / Imported velour body / Made in France"
Hat of white organza. High pillbox crown, 4" deep. Bottom edge of crown encircled with 3" wide bias organdy that ties in large bow at center front. Lined in white silk with white grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Covered wires at sides for securing hat to wearer's head.
Suit hat of black velour. Rounded 4" deep crown. 2" wide front upward turned brim. 1/2" wider at sides, turning downward at center back. Has large black ostrich feather tassel at center back. Lined in netting with gray grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Comb at center front for securing hat to wearer's head.
Hat of navy blue fur felt. The low crown is domed, with steep sides at sides and back, while the front has a shallow slope extending out to become a slight brim/visor. The hat is unlined, with a dark blue grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" Stamped inside felt crown: "French Importation" "Ghazelle" Size label: "21 1/2"
Calotte of beige fabric, heavily beaded. The calotte (also spelled "calot") is constructed with a low, domed crown of stiffened net and beige fabric, with areas that extend down at sides and back. The whole is covered with clear sequins, yellow rhinestones, bugle beads, small metal strips, etc. The hat has an inner peach/beige grosgrain ribbon hatband, and four small metal loops sewn in to use to attach to wearer's head with bobby pins. Designer's label: "Gilbert Orcel / 5 Rue de Cirque Paris (8º)"
Hat of beige fur felt. The shaped crown is somewhat rounded, with a peak at front and a deep fold running from the peak towards the back right of the crown. At back, the crown is cut to form an inverted "sweetheart" line, while at front it curves forward and up slightly to form a small brim/visor effect. At top of crown, behind the peak, is a feather spray of brown and white feathers. The hat is unlined, with an inner dark brown grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label: "J. Suzanne Talbot / 8 Avenue Matignon" Origin label: "Made in France"
Pillbox hat of cream satin entirely covered with beading and rhinestones. The low, circular crown is covered in a ground of silver/white sequins with scattered fuchsia and clear rhinestones and light blue beads. At top of crown is central rosette with central fuchsia stone surrounded by a ring of clear stones. Retailer's labels inside: "Neiman-Marcus / Made to order"; "Made in France for / Neiman-Marcus"
Ensemble of printed silk. This cocktail or dinner ensemble in the "New Look" consists of a dress and bolero-style jacket of printed floral ikat silk with a black ground and floral design in gray, browns and dark brown/mauve shades. A) The dress is mid-calf-length, sleeveless, and with a boat neckline. Tailored to fit, with side bust and waist darts. Self fabric bow at top of waist gore which releases into a box pleat at the skirt. Slightly dropped waist. Under the sides of front box pleat edges are two knife pleats to create fullness, with darts for slimmer waist. On either side of front bock pleat is a small 1"intake pleat to balance fullness of skirt. Side seams have a lapping box pleat and an small triangular insert from front side seams. Back waist has 4 sets of box pleats, two on either side of center back zipper closure. The dress has built-in under-structure consisting of inner half-slip of off-white satin, and three layers of stiffened netting petticoats, all with horsehair braid at hem. B) The matching jacket is of the same cloth, cropped short in the bolero style. The center-front opening has no closures and is collarless. Raglan style sleeves are tea elbow length. Under sleeve and sleeve cuff is slightly ruched creating a faux cuff look. It is fully lined in a brown silk organza. 4-way underarm gusset. Sewn into the hem are French weights. There is no label in the dress. The jacket has a single designer's label: "Printemps-Ete 1956 / Christian Dior / Paris" which has stamped on it "80615". The "1956" appears embossed, not printed, and the black backing of the label is cut away behind the "1956".
Dress of black wool with black leather trim. The street-length dress has a standup collar trimmed in snaps. Front opening is leather trimmed and has 5 self-covered snaps. Detachable front skirt panel is edged along top with black leather trim and secured with 5 self-covered snaps. Bracelet length sleeves trimmed with snaps at cuff. Back zipper. Fully lined in black satin. Handwritten label on inside back seam: "Pierre Balmain Fall 1955"
Hat of black panne velvet. Designed somewhat as a toque, the hat has a high, cylindrical crown which is encircled at base by a wide black velvet ribbon with bow at back and spray of black feathers extending from bow. The brim extends down at a sharp angle. Hat is unlined, with inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label sew to inner hatband: "Styled by / Coralie" and "Finlan". Stamped inside crown: "Flechete / Body made in France"
Hat of black sequins over net/lace. Styled as a modified pillbox or beret, the hat has a circular low, flattened crown and no brim. The base is of black lace/net, totally covered with massed black sequins. At sides are small diamond-shaped sections that extend down to either side of wearer's head. Hat is unlined, with black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Label inside: "Sequins Styled / and / Imported / from France".
Red leaf hat. Rounded conical hat of netting partly covered with red and pink silk leaves. Inside the hat, which has aspects of both a cloche and a toque, at the base of the crown, is a band of red grosgrain ribbon. Sewn into the ribbon band is designer's label: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris".
Halter-style dress of black wool. V-neck, very low back, sleeveless, buttons up back. Straight skirt with drapery over hips and in front. Country of Origin Label: " Made in France " located on front neckline at right center. Designers Label at inside left on construction detail: " Made in France / Automne - Hiver 1952 / Christian Dior / Paris "
Coat dress of white textured silk; fitted back and loose draped front ending over left bust line with long flange to hem. Designer's Label at inside center back below collar " Printemps - Ete 1956 / Christian Dior / Paris / Made in France" and stamped on label: "789[(?) last number is illegible]"
Evening dress of black and white satin. Long torso fitted top. Sleeveless, with wide boat neck of black satin. Zipper down the back. Full harem skirt of black, white, and grey striped and dotted silk with one large black satin bow at hip line and another bow of same at the hem of the short, "balloon" style skirt. Designer's label at left inside seam: "Boutique / Christian Dior / Paris" and "Made in France".
Cloche-style hat of blue/gray feathers. The crown of the hat is made of dark blue mesh overlaid with a mosaic of blue/gray feathers. Brimless, the lower edge of the crown arcs upwards at front and slightly in back. The hat is lined in the mesh, and has an inner hatband at the lower inside edge of the crown. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Made In / France", "Christian Dior / Paris"
Hat of shiny beige/light brown straw. Formed somewhat as a turban, the strands (approximately 50) of straw are wrapped and swirled around stiff net base creating a high, somewhat conical crown with an effect like a turban or a high-piled swirl of blond hair. Completely covered with beige veiling. Dark muted orange satin binding (1/2 inch deep) around edge of crown. Designer's label sewn to inner edge: "Christian Dior / chapeaux / Paris~New York"
Pair of gloves of tan suede. The wrist-length gloves are plain, with hand-stitching. Size/Designer Label stamped inside: "7 / Made in France / by / Roger Fare" Retailer Label: "Neiman-Marcus / Made in France"
Hat of dark green felt and multicolored yarns. Formed in the style of a small bonnet, the cylindrical crown is pointed back, and cut flat across top. The front of the crown is overlaid by a band of heavily embroidered/crocheted flowers and ground of various colors of yarn, and scattered shaped beads. This band is bordered by a thick purple yarn. At the front of the hat and extending along the sides are the brim, folded back to form a second wide band of heavily embroidered/crocheted flowers and ground. The hat is unlined, and from the inside can be seen the inner part of the embroidery/crochet. Maker's label sewn inside hat, at back of crown: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York / 78 East 56th Street, N.Y."
Hatlet of burgundy fabric covered with artificial flowers. The hatlet is formed as an oval of stiffened burgundy fabric intended to be worn across the top of the head. The hatlet is almost entirely covered with artificial flowers of velvets, silk, and other fabrics. The flowers are primarily in pinks/purples/reds, with green stems and leaves. The hat is lined in black satin and edged with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. A small stitched mark on the ribbon indicates the front of the hat. Designer's Label: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York". Label is very large, extending across the full width of the inside of the hatlet, the word "Paris" partly obscured by the grosgrain ribbon.
Hat of red satin and sequins. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot") of dark red satin almost completely covered in sequined floral appliques. Irregular lower edge, following the outline of the appliques. Lined in black paper (?) and satin, and with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. A small stitched mark on the band indicates the front of the hat, and a small applied white ribbon bow is set at back. Designer's Label: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York". Label is large, extending across the inside of the hat, the "Paris", most of "New" and all of "York" are cut off.
Turban of pleated brown wool jersey. The high-crowned turban is composed of pleated concentric bands of fabric. The hat is lined in mesh covered with cream/pale yellow silk, and with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. A stitched mark on headband shows front of hat, and small applied ribbon bow shows back. Designer's label inside crown: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York". Label is large, almost reaching from headband to headband across inside of crown.
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