Original fashion design by Lilli Wolff. Possibly for a costume, of a female figure with gold-accented dress and flowing pink belt/sash represented on sketch by an applied cut-out piece of paper. Drawing is overlaid with black mesh, and mounted on larger board. Believed to have been done between 1945 and 1960.
Petticoat of maroon taffeta with two tiers of 1-3/4" black horsehair braid. One inch waistband. Center back opening closed with hook & eyes. Two curved panels at hips are gathered at the hem. Unlined, with 3-1/2" band of black stiffened net at interior hem line. Combined designer/retailer label on inside seam: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"
Hat of dark pink/mauve velvet. The low, domed crown is covered with large overlapping "petal" shapes of velvet arranged like scales, and has a large velvet rose/flower form at front of the same velvet petals. Lined in black fabric, and with black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Sanger Bros / Dallas Texas"; and origin/size label: "New York / Creation / 22"
Dark orange velvet hat. The shaped crown is roughly square with low peak at top center, constructed of four triangular panels, creating slight "corners" at sides. No brim. Lined in black satin. Accompanied by two hatpins, the heads covered with matching velvet. Designer's label inside: "Original / Roberta Bernays"
Hat of navy blue silk faille. Small brimless hat, formed with a very low domed crown. Lined in off-white organza(?), with deep edge of the faille extending up into the underside of the crown. With two small plastic combs to help secure it to wearer's head. No labels.
Skirt-suit of navy blue wool. A) Jcket. Cropped, fitted jacket with v-neckline and center-front opening with 5 self-covered circular buttons with bound buttonholes and two hidden snaps. Long sleeves, each with two self-covered buttons and bound buttonholes, and two hidden snaps. Lined in navy blue silk, and with internal shoulder pads. Combined Designer's/Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" B) Skirt. Street-length flared skirt of 10 gores, with narrow waistband, left side zipper with two hook-and-eyes in waistband. Lined in navy blue silk.
Picture hat of off-white felt. The low, domed crown is open at top along a split from front to back, and is encircled and almost covered by wide bands of red, white, and blue horizontally striped grosgrain ribbon, with crossing and trailing ends at back. The wide brim curves downwards. Hat is unlined, with inner off-white grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label inside: "Sonnenfeld's / St. Louis"
Skirt suit of navy blue wool twill consisting of: A) Hip-length jacket with full length tailored sleeves. Collarless neckline which raises 3/4". Single breasted with 3 tortoise buttons and slim bound button holes. Bib-shaped yoke insert with two almost vertical faux pocket flaps. Mid-arm design seams comes to inner top of lower hacking pocket flaps. Hacking pockets have vertical and slim bound buttons holes with one tortoise button for right flap and one turquoise button for left flap. Back inverted triangular yoke starts from shoulders with point ended at center back waist. Tailored sleeve split into upper and under sleeve, with two darts at elbow on under sleeve. Fully lined in (now) indigo crepe silk. B) Skirt, pencil with seams at center front and back and both sides. 1 1/2" waist band with triangular tip comes to a lapped zipper on left side and 4 sets of hooks and one snap for closure. Two 2" darts on front and two 4" darts on back. 2" simple vent at CF hem, hem has been let down from original length by ~2", using 2" cotton bias tape. Skirt is unlined with pinked cut edges to finish seam inside. Labels: Designer's label: "Adrian / in / British Samek Material" Retailer's label: "The Fashion / Houston"
Evening dress consisting of jacket and skirt. A) Jacket. The fitted black velvet jacket is encrusted with gold braid/ribbon in a lattice/trellis pattern over the entire surface, with added buttons, cabochons, beads, etc. lavishly sewn over the surface. The jacket has a no collar, and short capped sleeves. From the natural waist flares a peplum. The jacket has a center front closure of hooks-and-eyes. Unlined, it has built-in shoulder pads. No label in jacket. B) Straight skirt is full-length, of heavy black crepe. Center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at waistband. Designer's label inside skirt at side seam: "Adrian / Custom", along with a second label, typed on white grosgrain ribbon, sewn in: "Neiman Marcus 417 / Size 12".
Gray worsted wool two-piece suit. A) Jacket. Hip-length, with long sleeves. Center front opening with 4 large circular buttons (one missing). Front with piece-in bands of same cloth forming cross-overs at upper bust and arcs below the two pockets. Lined in peach fabric. Designer's label at left side: "Adrian / Original"; At center back inside neckline is retailer's label "Nan Duskin / Philadelphia" B) Skirt. Street-length, ca. mid-calf. Zipper closure at left hip, with hook-and-eyes at waistband. Unlined. Retailer's label as in jacket, near hem on side seam.
Suit of tan heather wool. Suit consists of two pieces: A) Jacket, pointed collar, notched lapels, single breasted, long sleeves, cut formed of diagonal piecing, lined in tan silk crepe. B: Skirt, four gored, kick pleat at CF hem.
Hat of black and brown suede. Brim-less. Style resembles a garrison cap. Lined in black fabric with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Evelyn Varon / Model" Union label at left of designer's label.
Toque style hat of raspberry wool felt knotted with light blue and raspberry terry cloth and folded under brim. Stamped inside crown: "Imperial / 100% Wool / Made in USA / Milford Wool / Hat Body Corp"
Black cartwheel hat. The low, domed crown and wide circular brim are made of black woven horsehair and stiff veiling, with wire to stiffen the edges. The brim is overlaid with a wider second brim of net and wire. Brim is off-center, wider at front of hat than back. Around base of crown is a band of black cording, tied into a bow at back and with trailing ends. The inside base of the crown is lined with black grosgrain ribbon. One pin with black head is with hat to secure it. Label sewn into inner band: "Sally Victor / 18 East 53rd St." A second label with handwritten number "1655" is sewn in near designer's label.
Hat of black straw with small crown worn forward on head with under-chin strap. Brim is visor shaped in front and long on back; very narrow sides. Trimmed with triple bow trim on one side and pink feathers on the other. Designer's label: "Bernice / Charles / 711 Fifth Ave. / New York"
Cartwheel hat of natural colored straw. Brim is wider in front than on back. Trimmed with hatband of wide, black grosgrain ribbon that forms bow in back. Edge of brim trimmed in black grosgrain. Unlined. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" Union label number 852534 to left of retailer's label on inside hatband.
Cartwheel hat of brown straw. Wide brimmed with open crown. Two accordion folded, brown grosgrain pieces of trim with trailing tail as decoration. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" Union label attached to retailer's label.
Hat of tan straw. The low, domed crown is of a basket-weave of straw with inter-woven plaits of straw, giving scallop or scale textures. Around the base of the crown, running along the sides and front, are clusters of artificial grapes and leaves. The narrow straw brim "waves" around the crown, undulating up and down. Unlined, with tan grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Retailer's label inside: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas"
Hat of black crocheted yarn and buttons. The hat is formed as a open-crown crochet cap. At sides are large diamond-shaped areas which are covered with large black circular faceted buttons. Unlined. Retailer's label inside: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas"
Hat of acid green crushed jersey knit. Turban-style effect with 3 poufs on top of crown. Lined in brown fabric with green grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Retailer's label: "Neiman Marcus Co. / New York Dallas Paris"
Modified pamela or madeline hat of black velvet. Low, flat crown with roll at black grosgrain ribbon as hatband. Wide, upturned brim with rolled edges. Lined in black fabric with black grosgrain inside hatband. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Sharon / Originals"
Hat of red straw with high crown. Cream and pink roses decorate turned down brim and top of crown. Unlined with red grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Designer's label sewn inside headband: "John Frederics / Made to Order"
Beret style cap of off-white silk noil. Crown is of pieced construction with topstitching on all seams. Headband of same with rows of horizontal topstitching. Inner headband of light green colored grosgrain ribbon. Unlined. Retailer's label on inside headband at back: "Henrys / Dallas"
Hat of colored knitted yarn. Tall, conical crown with flattened top. Crown has horizontal bands of knitting in browns, blues, and beige, alternating with bands of "puffed" yarn areas of blue, pink, beige, and brown. No brim. Unlined, but with inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "John Frederics Inc / New York" and "Made in America".
Picture hat of light tan straw. The cylindrical crown is flattened at top, with a sunken center. Crown is encircled by a wide band of olive green velvet ribbon, lighter on one side, that is formed into a multi-lobed bow at back with trailing ribbons. Wide flat brim turns down near edge. Unlined, with inner off-white grosgrain ribbon inner hatband, and elastic cord to help secure hat to wearer's head.
Picture hat of black silk. The hat is designed with a cylindrical crown, somewhat flattened at top, which is encircled at the base by a wide band of black grosgrain ribbon with bow and streamers at back. The top of the crown is enhanced with radiating lines of top stitching. The wide black silk brim curves down, and is made as two concentric sections, each with decorative top stitching creating layered rays. "Marguerite / Yvonne / 509 Madison Ave / New York"
Picture hat of light tan straw. The hat has a high, conical crown that is flattened at top. The wide straw brim curves up slightly from base of crown, then curves gently downwards to edge. At back of crown is large navy blue grosgrain ribbon bow, and around the top of the hat is a "cloud" of navy blue veiling. Hat is unlined, with inner light tan grosgrain ribbon inner hatband, and a black elastic cord to help secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label inside: "John Frederics Inc / New York"; "Made in America"; and size label "22".
Calotte of black straw cloth. White fabric rosebuds and daisies with green leaves form headband as trim over small brim in front. Edge of hat trimmed in black velvet. Black veil gathers to velvet ribbons on ends to form tie for securing hat to head.
Calotte style hat of navy blue wool felt. Right side extends with a strip of felt curling downward then upward to a point trimmed with a strand of pears, gold leaves, and blue/green bugle beads. Unlined with a blue grosgrain hatband. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Ginette Robert / de Paris"
Hat of black velvet with cording detail. The domed crown is encircled at base with a band of black cord-work, with a bow at back with trailing ribbon. The circular brim turns up at edge, which is embellished with same cording as base of crown. Lined in ribbed orange red fabric, with a black grosgrain inner ribbon hatband, and with an elastic cord to help secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's hand-sewn label inside crown: "Jo Bailey / Hats"
Hat of multi-colored woven wool stripes. Designed somewhat as a toque, the hat has a cylindrical crown, tilted back, with flattened, recessed top and no brim. The fabric of the hat has alternating stripes of white, dark red, red, pink, dark blue, light blue, and gray, with the stripes arranged to form chevrons. lined in thin black fabric, with underlayer of medium gray. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Bonnette / Highland Park Village"
Picture hat of black felt. The crown is formed as a bun, with puffed top, resembling a muffin, cinched in at the base by a visible satin string/stitch with trailing edge/tassel at back. The wide brim of matching felt curves downwards and undulates slightly, and has a decorative stitch near outer edge very slightly gathering the edge. Label sewn inside crown: "Made in America"; "John Frederics Inc. / New York"
Hat of brown felt. The "safari-style" hat has a domed crown of brown felt, around the base of which is tied a thin band of matching felt, with bow and trailing ends at front. The brim, of matching felt, slopes downwards at front and turns upwards at back. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of red grosgrain ribbon around the inside base of the crown. Sewn to inner hatband is retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus". Accompanied by one short hatpin with simulated black tear-drop pearl head.
Hat of beige fur felt. The high, domed crown is of beige fur felt, wrapped by a wide silk satin ribbon woven in a plaid of olive green, orange, yellow, red, and tan. The ribbon extends for a significant distance off of the back of the hat to become streamers, and is held at the back of the crown by a circular conch of white shell. The brim is of the same fur felt, set off-center, with wider sections at front/right and shallower sections at back/left. All edges turn up, with a higher area at front/right. The hat is unlined, retaining much of the pelt on the underside of the brim and inside the base of the crown. Manufacturer's(?) marks inside crown, partly illegible. Intended for daytime wear, the hat is styled after the "Aussie" type hats worn by Australian troops during World War II.
Hat of gray felt. The cylindrical gray felt crown is very slightly domed, and is set off-center to the brim. The brim, of matching felt, turns up, forming a deep, steep-sided bowl around the crown. The edge of the brim turns in, and is sewn down forming a seam around the inside edge of the "bowl". At left front of the brim is a bow of matching felt. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of gray grosgrain ribbon around the inside base of the crown. Stamped inside the crown: "Body made in Italy". Maker's hand-sewn(?) label affixed to inner hatband: "Jo Bailey / Hats".
Hat of off white lace. Domed crown. Wide, floppy brim with 2 pink flowers and leaves as trim with one matching flower under brim. Brim is gathered to crown in front. Lined in cream colored net with ivory grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Maker's (retailer's?) label on inside headband at back: "Henrys / Dallas".
Hat of rich brown felt, styled as a fedora. Crown somewhat cylindrical, flattened at top, with slightly indented top square panel. At base of crown is 2" wide band of light brown/beige grosgrain ribbon, with trailing ends. Medium-width brim of same felt, turned up at back and sides, down slightly at front. Unlined, but with inner reddish brown grosgrain ribbon hatband, and attached black elastic cord to help secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label at inner hatband: "Hatnegie Hats Inc. / New York" Style label: "5226" Size label: "21 1/2"
Hat of pink straw. The open crown is of woven pink straw, as is the wide oval brim. At the front of the hat is a cluster of artificial flowers in pink velvet and green fabric. The hat is unlined, with two inner hatbands of grosgrain ribbon at the base of the crown - one band pink, the other of cream. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "3410 Oak Lawn / Bernie A. Cahn / Dallas, Tex" Accompanied by a single short hatpin with a tan straw woven head.
Hat of green velvet. The toque style hat is formed as a high, cylindrical crown of olive and light green velvet in a tiny checkerboard pattern. The entire crown, including flattened top, has a small green rhinestone set in each of the light green squares of the checkerboard. At the front of the hat is a bow of olive green velvet. The entire hat is overlaid with an olive green veil/netting. The hat is lined with green satin, and has an inner hatband of dark olive green grosgrain ribbon inside the base of the crown. Sewn to the inner hatband is manufacturer's label: "Paris / Gardner / New York". The hat is accompanied by a single short hatpin with faux pearl head.
Calotte style hat of brown felt. Domed crown. Two bands of matching felt circle edge of hat and tie to form a large knot on the right. Tie ends stand away from hat. Unlined with brown grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Retailer's label: "Gus Mayer / Co. Ltd."