Ensemble consisting of: a) Coat of silver lame with jeweled buttons lined in same black wool jersey as dress. b) Tunic top of black wool jersey. Sleeveless with two side slit pockets. Closure at back with two snaps and self-covered buttons. Lined in black silk. c) Pants of heavy black wool jersey. Double side zippers. Designer Label: "EISA"
a) Dinner gown with black crepe skier and white faille bodice; bodice is hand embroidered in irridescent rhinestones, sequins, silver thread, and crystal drops. b) 2" sash of bright pink satin at natural waist.
Evening gown of red velvet. Floor length with wide, rounded neckline with deep scoop in back and 3/4 raglan sleeves. 1/2" and 1/4" round pearl beads sewn 2" apart over entire dress. Full-length, natural waist A-line skirt with slight train. Zipper closure at center back. Unlined with bodice and sleeved interfaced in maroon silk chiffon. Designer's label at inside right side seam under arm: "EISA"
Ensemble of oatmeal colored wool tweed: a) Jacket of beige and black wool tweed with V-neckline with standard notched collar and wide lapels; short, princess seams; 3/4 length, set in, two piece sleeves; double breasted opening with four round, plastic, beige buttons and two bound buttonholes supplemented by single large covered snap inside lap at waist; fully lined in beige silk. Label stitched inside back neck below collar. b) Dress of same; sleeveless; falling just below the knee; deep rounded neckline; empire waist seam; straight skirt has slight gathers in front; left side underarm zipper closure supplemented by single hook&eye closure; folded hem; armhole and neck facings; brassiere strap keepers snap inside shoulders; unlined.
Ensemble consisting of a coat and dress. The mid-length coat is of knit with a printed pattern of blue geometric shapes on a bright red ground, and has long sleeves and moderate collar with rounded points. Center-front opening with 4 square dark blue plastic buttons. Across back of coat is an attached belt of the same fabric, with buttons at each side, but does not extend around to the front. Fully lined in dark blue fabric. The mid-length dress is of the same fabric, and has short sleeves, a rounded neckline, and flares slightly to hem. The dress has a center-back zipper closure and is lined in the same fabric as the coat. Coat has a single retailer's label: "Lou Lattimore / Dallas" inside back at collar. Dress has slightly smaller version of same label, sewn inside at left of zipper near neckline.
Lounge ensemble in pink silks. The pantsuit consists of a blouse and pants. The blouse is of pink silk, constructed as two layers. The inner lining layer is of plain pink gauze. The outer layer is of pink silk heavily decorated with patterns created by shibori technique dying. The blouse has long sleeves and a center-front zipper closure that runs almost the entire length of the garment and has a single hook-and-eye at throat. The collar, cuffs, hem, and flap over the zipper are a small ruffle of the same materials. The shibori patterns use green, yellow, blue, and the original white of the fabric to create bands of tiny "puckers", large circular forms, and abstract shapes. The pants are of pink silk taffeta, about ankle length, with elastic cuffs. Plain waistband, with zipper closure at center front and single hook-and-eye at waistband. Described in early records as harem pants, but lacking the fullness associated with that style. Both garments have the same series of labels. Designer's label: "Martine Grandval / Made in France Paris"; material label "100% Silk"; and retailer's label: "ViV / Neiman-Marcus / Made in France". The shibori fabric may be of Indian, Pakistani, or Asian origin, based on the particular way that the shibori tye-dying technique has been used on the garment.
Dinner dress and jacket ensemble of black wool; (a) Jacket: Short princess line black wool jacket; V-neckline with wide notched collar and wide lapels; full-length, set in, two piece sleeves; asymmetrical lapped front opening with one large, round, filligreed button with rhinestones and bound buttonhole; fully lined in black silk. Label stitched inside back neck below collar. (b) Dress: Matching sleeveless knee length dress with V-neckline in front due to surplice styled opening; fronts secure with four snaps and four hook&eyes; seam detail around bust; back neckline is square between straps; waistline seam with skirt gathering all around; lapped center-front opening in skirt with single hook&eye and two snaps; folded hem; fully lined in black silk. Label stitched inside on lining at right side seam. Size 12 BALENCIAGA, Paris
Ball gown of pink silk taffeta. The off-the-shoulder design has several layers of cream colored Chantilly lace around the neckline/shoulder edge. The dress itself is of bright fuchsia pink silk taffeta with ties over each arm. The bodice is seamed and fitted, with a left side seam zipper. The attached matching taffeta skirt is gathered and draped horizontally, and has several layers of Chantilly lace at hem. The skirt has three hoops under the lining.
Pillbox hat. The short, flat-topped cylindrical crown of tan netting is completely covered with rows of artificial magenta pink silk flowers, which have yellow thread and green plush centers. Inside the lower edge of the crown is a dark green grosgrain ribbon band which has two sections of elastic cord sewn along the sides to form loops to help secure the hat to wearer's head. Label sewn into inner ribbon band: "Eisa" Donor stated that this hat was "...to wear with a black day outfit."
Derby of hot pink leaves. Hat in the style of a derby, completely covered in various shades of hot pink leaf-shapes cut out of velvet, satin, and other fabrics. Cylindrical crown, up-turned brim. The hat is lined in hot pink fabric and has a pink grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Sewn into the inner hatband is a homemade(?) hand embroidered label: "Jo Bailey Hats"
Toque of black satin. Pillbox-like hat has cylindrical crown, slightly domed, and is completely covered in black satin. At front, near base of crown, is a black satin bow from which rises a spray of black feathers. Interior of crown fully lined in black satin, with a black grosgrain ribbon band at base of crown. Sewn to the inner ribbon band is a plastic comb to secure the hat to the head of the wearer. No labels.
Black satin toque hat. Cylindrical in form, with sides curving down along ears/temples. Slightly domed at top, and with an ornament at front consisting of a black satin bow and a group of curled black feathers. Label inside at back: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V / Paris"
Hat of black velvet. The hat has a circular, slightly domed, crown completely covered in black velvet. At the front is attached a rhinestone and glass(?) brooch formed as firework spray. The central iridescent faceted stone is surrounded by rays or arms of lines of rhinestones simulating diamonds. Some rays arc over the brooch, some hang down. Most are only partly rigid, so that as the wearer moves the rays shimmer and the stones catch the light. The crown is lined in black fabric, with a black grosgrain ribbon running along the inner lower edge. Attached to the inner ribbon band is a plastic comb to help secure the hat to the wearer's head. No labels. Donor attributed the brooch to Balenciaga. Alternatively attributed to Robert Goossens of Paris, who is known to have supplied Balenciaga.
Hat of leopard fur. Similar to a baseball cap, the hat has a pillbox style crown with a crescent-moon shaped visor / brim at front, both completely covered in leopard fur. Around the base of the crown is a black leather hatband. The interior of the crown is lined in a cream brocade cloth, while the visor is lined in leopard. Along the interior base of the crown is a dark brown grosgrain ribbon band. No labels.
Hat of moss green "plush" velvet. The derby-style hat has domed cylindrical crown with indentations at front and slight crease along crown. Narrow brim, rolled upwards at sides and back. To left of center front is small attached "fan" of various types and colors of feathers. Inside crown is attached small length of black grosgrain ribbon to maintain the front indentations, and a band of black grosgrain ribbon along inside base of crown. Stamped inside crown: Feutre Flechet.
Pair of commercially produced Wrangler denim jeans that were found in the southern Rocky mountains across from Red River, New Mexico in the late 1960's. The pants had been bleached in irregular patterns by the sun, and had various worn and torn places. After discovery, the Wranglers were embellished with red velour fabric pieces to cover some of the worst structural damage, and with a commercially available embroidered butterfly patch added below waistband at center back. Labels: Evidence of rectangular tag having been sewn on right-side back pocket. Both back pockets have "W" stitching; Fly button engraved "Wrangler"; Tag sewn inside fly: "Wrangler / 30 x 34 / Sanforized / Made in U.S.A."; Zipper pull stamped "Gripper Zipper" and "Pat Pending"; Marked on left front pocket, inside pants: "GDW"
Brown velvet pillbox cocktail hat. The low, circular crown of the hat is slightly domed. At front of hat is pinned a large 3-dimensional pear-shaped openwork jeweled ornament of gold wire set with various colors and shapes of stones. Inside of hat lined in black cloth. Around inside lower edge of crown is brown grosgrain ribbon band. Sewn to inner band is a plastic comb to help secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner ribbon band: "Eisa". The jeweled ornament is attributed to Robert Goossens of Paris, who is known to have supplied Balenciaga. Donor notes of this hat: "...to wear with short black cocktail dresses."
Dress. Floor-length dress of ivory knit, overlaid with a gold netting. Sleeveless and with a boat-neckline, the sheath-style dress has ornate heavy gold cording around neckline, armholes, along side-seams, and hem. The skirt has small side slits, and a center lapped zipper closure located along center-back of garment with hook-and-eye closure at top of zipper. Lined with a light polyester.
Picture hat. The hat is of natural woven Milan straw, forming a wide shaped brim that curves downwards to the edges. Brim is rounded in front, flaring out slightly to back and forming two projecting lobes at back. Around brim is a band of woven straw for strength. Very low cylindrical crown, slightly domed. Around crown is twisted gold velvet band forming bow with trailing ribbons at back. Inside base of crown is off-white grosgrain ribbon band. Sewn into inner ribbon band is label: "John Frederics Inc. / New York", "Made In America". Label has three rhinestones sewn to it, and has two small green ribbon bows at opposing corners.
Calotte style hat in cut out triangular shape of white leather with white glass beaded edges on leather strips. Bow of same on center front top. Bow at center back of white glass beads. Navy veil. Two small combs, one attached on each side. Designer's label on inside band: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago"
Embroidered hatlet. Formed of two hollow teardrop shapes overlaid on each other and edged with tiny gold beads. The shapes are covered in light green satin with is heavily embroidered with flowers and leaves in red, blue, greens, yellow, brown, purple/lavender. At back of hat is a sculptural bow of the same materials, edged in gold beads and with a quadruple strand of the beads at the "knot". Overall is a brown net veil with attached embroidered pieces matching the embroidery on the hatlet. The hatlet is lined in brown knit, with a plastic comb attached at each side to secure hat to wearer's head. Sewn into lining is maker's label: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". Gift of John C. Murphy, through the Chicago Historical Society.
Pillbox hat of blue mesh and straw work. The cylindrical blue mesh crown is very slightly domed, with an extending section at front which folds down and under. The whole is covered with a field of 1" (2.54 cm) wide blue straw work flower heads. The inside of the crown is lined in a fine blue mesh and edged with an inner hatband of dark blue grosgrain ribbon. Attached to the ribbon are two small plastic combs to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago"; and a second, hand-written label indicating the style(?): "813".
Hatlet of black velvet with beads and cut-steel butterflies. Black velvet hatlet, the slightly domed openwork crown formed by three "teardrop" shapes of black velvet edged with black beads, connected at the points, and connected at bottom edges with short curved black velvet "bridges" also edged with black beads. In each of the teardrop sections is set a large black stamped metal "cut steel" style butterfly. Evidence of black net veil, now missing. Interior of crown lined with black felt, and with two plastic combs to secure hatlet to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". Model number label(?): "649" Gift of Mrs. William S. North.
Hatlet of brown plastic tubing. Hatlet formed of a spiral of twisted brown plastic tubing. The shallow, dished crown has four large bows of the same tubing spaced along the edges, with the "ends" pointing upwards. The hatlet has a brown net veil, with pieces of the brown tubing worked into some of the intersections. The inside of the crown is lined in brown mesh, and edged in brown velvet piping. Two plastic combs, one at each side, are inside crown to secure hatlet to wearer's head. Designer's Label: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago".
Picture hat of straw. The domed crown is of natural-colored straw, ringed at the base with a line of artificial daisies with white petals and yellow centers, affixed to a band of off-white grosgrain ribbon. The broad oval straw brim is set off-center, and edged underneath with a double line of daisies around most of the brim, and a single line of daisies at back. The crown is edged inside with an inner hatband of white grosgrain ribbon. Label sewn to inner hatband: "Henrys / Dallas". Henrys has been identified alternately as maker or retailer.
Hatlet of green velvet, artificial flowers and crystals. The circular crown formed of an open ring covered with velvet, embellished with a dense covering of velvet and silk artificial flowers and with scattered crystals/rhinestones. The hatlet is overlaid with a fine green net/veil. The underside of the hatlet is lined in green mesh and edged with green velvet. Two small plastic combs are attached by elastic combs, to secure the hatlet to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to underside of hat: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago".
Pillbox style hat of lacquered black straw. The cylindrical crown is slightly domed, the sides slightly convex. Embellished with a single large faceted black plastic button "jewel" attached at side. The whole is overlaid with black net/veil, with scattered spherical black beads sewn to the net/veil. The interior of the crown is lined in black cloth and black mesh. Around the edge is an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Attached to the hatband are two small plastic combs to secure the hat to wearer's head. Designer's label sewn to hatband: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago".
Hatlet of blue embroidered appliques. The irregularly-shaped skull-cap is formed of stiffened blue mesh with a wired edge covered in dark navy blue velvet. Over the surface of the hatlet are applied navy blue embroidered appliques of coiled braid and French knots. Stray threads indicate the hat probably had an overlaying net/veil, now missing. Underneath the hat are attached two small plastic combs to secure hatlet to wearer's head. Designer's label sewn inside hat: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago", and a second, hand-written label indicating the style(?): "346".
Hatlet of light orange straw. The hat is formed as an openwork bow made of a ribbon of woven light orange straw. The bow curves to fit the shape of the head, with all edges trimmed in orange glass beads. Two small plastic combs are attached to the underside of the hatlet to secure it to wearer's head. Designer's label sewn to underside of hatlet: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago"; and hand-written style label "620"
Hatlet of black faille and velvet. In the form of a modified fillet or bandeau that sits atop head and extends from ear to ear, the hatlet is formed of a pair of curved segments of black cotton faille with black beaded edging that cross and are "tied" with a band of black velvet, giving the effect of a black velvet bow edged in beads. Lined in black velvet, which is visible at front where edges curve upwards. Attached black elastic string in back to secure to wearer's head. Stray threads suggest hat may have had a veil, now missing. Designer's Label: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". Gift of Mrs. Meg Gordon, Chicago, Ill.
Turban of printed fabric. The turban is made from fabric printed with blue, red and brown ocher ducks and white cattails on a navy blue background. The turban is lined in dull red mesh, and has an inner hatband of dark blue grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". Beside designer's label is model number label: "720" Accompanied by a single short hatpin with square multi-colored glass head.
Bandeau hatlet of violet ombre straw cloth. Sides formed by 4 folds of same. All edges trimmed in violet colored glass beads. Two brown plastic combs attached to inside grosgrain hatband to secure hat to head. Blue net veil. Designer's label: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago"
Turban of printed fabric. The turban is made from fabric printed with lemon yellow, pink, black, and white geometric forms and arcs. The turban is lined in yellow mesh, and has an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Attached to the inner band are two small plastic combs to secure the hat to wearer's head. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". Accompanied by a single short hatpin with wrapped head.
Calotte style hat of white simulated alligator in free form with 3 bows of same. Hat and bows trimmed with white glass beads. Two brown combs attached to inside grosgrain hatband for securing hat to head. Navy veil interspersed with groups of 3 white glass beads matching those on hat. Designer's label: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago" Handwritten label attached to hatband: "82"
Hatlet of black velvet. Main section of hatlet formed as a black velvet skullcap, with large black velvet bow in front with 7 large stiff black velvet loops at each side. Interior lined in black mesh and edged with black grosgrain ribbon. At either side is a small plastic comb to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label inside crown: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago" Gift of Mrs. R.I. Ross, through the Chicago Historical Society.
Hatlet of white plastic/vinyl tubing. Hatlet formed as an openwork ring with overlapping/crossing ends. Applied to the ring are three large bows made of the same tubing, set so that the trailing ribbons point upwards. Ring is lined in stiff white mesh and edged with a thin band of off-white velvet. At either side is attached a small plastic comb to secure hatlet to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". Gift of Mrs. Ann Lee Ross.
Hatlet of beaded openwork. Hatlet in calot (also spelled "calotte") style formed as an irregularly shaped openwork skullcap of stiffened mesh completely covered in small brown beads. Around the lower edge of the skullcap are protruding sections, shaped as stylized lobed leaves, covered with same brown beads and with many stiffened loops of smaller brown beads. Hatlet lined in stiff brown mesh and edged with thin strip of brown velvet. Designer's label inside hatlet: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". Gift of Mrs. William O. Hunt, of Finders Keepers, Chicago, Illinois.
Pillbox hat of black stiffened net and black cloth overlay. The cylindrical crown tapers to the flattened top, and is made of black cloth with applied patches of black grosgrain ribbon. The whole is overlaid with a stiff black cage netting veil, with a black grosgrain ribbon bow at back of crown. The crown is lined on inside with red lace, and edged with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Attached to inner band are two small plastic combs to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label inside crown: "Designed by Michael Roy New York"; Retailer's label inside crown above designer's: "Neiman-Marcus / Salon"
Cloche hat of medium brown coiled and plaited fibers. The high crown is crafted of spiraling band of plaited and coiled brown yarn(?)and incorporates looped sections, with iridescent flat ribbon wrapped around elements of the band. There is a horizontal "tuck" at back of hat, and a slight "visor" effect at front. The hat is unlined. Retailer's label sewn inside crown: "Made in France for / Neiman-Marcus". While in the style of a 1920's/1930's cloche, the materials, label, and construction date this piece to the 1960's.
Toque hat covered in appliqued velvet leaves. The cloche-style hat has a domed crown completely covered with vari-colored velvet leaves/blossoms in shades of pink, red, green, gold, fuchsia, brown, purple, etc. At base of crown is tied a fuchsia velvet ribbon with bow with ribbons trailing at right. Slight brim below ribbon, which extends downwards. The hat is lined in pink/fuchsia lace, and has an inner purple/mauve grosgrain ribbon hatband inside base of crown. Sewn into inner ribbon hatband is retailer's label: "Stern and Mann / Millinery. Received with a period white-painted wooden hat-stand.
Hatlet of indigo felt and beads. The hatlet is formed as a roughly rectangular piece of stiffened navy blue felt worn across the head from ear to ear, edged with navy blue beads. Surmounting the hatlet is a stacked series of four smaller stiffened rectangular strips running across the head, each edged with navy blue beads, with a fifth piece running perpendicular across the whole from front to back, forming a bow-like form at top front of hatlet. Hatlet is lined in stiffened navy blue mesh, edged inside with band of dark blue/gray/black grosgrain ribbon. At either side are attached small plastic combs to secure hatlet to wearer's head. Designer's Label: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago".
Large picture hat of navy blue straw. The high, domed crown is encircled at the base by a wide band of navy blue grosgrain ribbon, and has an oversized dark blue silk flower with artificial stems and leaves set at front. The wide brim is plain, turned back on itself at the edge to form a wide band of double-thickness. When worn, the brim hangs down forming conical shape, but when laid down, brim flattens. Hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of dark blue grosgrain ribbon around inside lower edge of crown. Designer's label sewn to inner band: "Adolfo / New York".
Turban in multicolored silk organza. The body of the turban is made of pleated silk organza in stripes of pink, blues, purple, and coral. Lined in a dark beige net, with matching grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. At either side are attached small plastic combs to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Irene of New York"
Cream silk jersey evening dress / ballgown with beaded decoration and matching belt. A) Full-length gown, bodice embellished with hand-embroidered stylized leaves/buds in cream on a ground of silver, green, and mauve beads. Shoulders and thin collar with solid fields of beading. Short, wide sleeves edged with silver and clear beads. Center back opening with hook-and-eyes at top and bottom, no closure along mid-back. Plain cream silk jersey skirt, gathered into waist. Closure at right hip, with band of hook-and-eyes along back waistline, and series of hidden snaps down from waistline. Bodice lined in silk gauze, skirt lined in heavier cream silk. Inner grosgrain ribbon waistband with hook-and-eye closure. Designer's label at inside waistband: "Givenchy"; under designer's label is hidden design/style # tag with handwritten notation: "54783" B) Belt of cream silk gauze-backed silk jersey, 2" wide x 30" long, completely covered in beading matching bodice. Hook-and-eye closure at ends. No marks/labels on belt.
Pillbox hat of tan fur. Low circular crown covered in light tan fur, likely mink. Lined in pink fabric with band of blue fabric inside lower edge, overlaid with gold rickrack band. On each side along inside lower edge is a small brown plastic comb secured by black elastic cord to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label inside at back: "Sue Dooley / Dallas"
Pillbox hat of draped chiffon burnout velvet. Cylindrical large pillbox hat with shaped lower rim. The crown is draped/pleated horizontally in a chiffon burnout velvet with printed abstract designs burnt orange, yellow, and blue. Lined in a brocaded blue and sparkly fabric. At lower inside edge is band of gold rickrack. Designer's label inside rim at back: "Sue Dooley / Dallas"
Pair of platform sling-back sandals of gold metallic leather. Set on a thick platform, the uppers are formed of 6 bands crossing the instep, with a seventh band extending across the bands at center point. A thicker strap begins at mid-arch of foot, and extends back behind heel, securing with a small buckle. The chunky heel is covered in the same leather as the upper and platform. Designer's label: "Creazioni / de / Antonio / Marsini / Milano / Italia" Written inside: "75M 4810 3J / 02-860"
Pair of shoes of black suede. Designed with a rounded toe, the shoes have a gold colored metal edge band at lower edge of toe, and between upper and heel. The 2 1/2" high chunky heel is covered in the same suede. Stamped inside: "De Fazzio / New York" Handwritten inside: "5 B 8244"
Hatlet of brown velvet. The open-crown hat is formed of a hollow square with down-turned sides and corners, covered in brown velvet and edged in tiny pearls. "Flying" around the hat are 8 golden stamped metal hummingbirds. One wing of each bird is hinged, allowing movement of the birds as the wearer moves their head. Over all is a brown net veil "capturing" the hummingbirds, with scattered gathers of 4 pearls. The underside is edged in brown grosgrain ribbon, and has two small plastic combs attached to secure hatlet to wearer's head. Sewn onto the inner ribbon is maker's label: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". Also sewn onto inner ribbon is hand-written label "917".
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