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Mourning Ensemble - Bodice and Skirt
Black silk mourning ensemble consisting of bodice and skirt. The bodice of black silk is fitted and boned, with a high, standing black silk band collar with appliqued black lace medallions. It has full-length, modified bishop sleeves that gather into the armseye. Below the gathered cap, in the portion corresponding to the upper arm, the fullness of the sleeve is controlled with top-stitched vertical tucks. From the elbow to the cuff the fullness is again released in a bishop sleeve silhouette. The sleeves gather again into wide black silk cuffs with appliqued black lace medallions and four narrow bands of black velvet ribbon. The bodice front is constructed on the lines of a bolero jacket, with a deep V-shaped opening and wide ruffled collar which is constructed of horizontally tucked black crepe-patterned silk. The released fullness of the tucking creates the ruffled finish. The ruffled portion is edged with two narrow bands of black velvet ribbon. The bodice front has a bib fill of gathered black silk and tulle net that is secured with hook-and-eyes beneath the left collar overlay. The fill area disguises the true front opening which is secured with thirteen hook-and-eyes. The main body of the bodice, front and back, is constructed of vertically tucked black silk that finishes in a wide black silk waistband which is appliqued with black lace medallions and edged in narrow black velvet ribbon. The waistband laps slightly left of center and secures with three hook-and-eyes. The bodice is fully lined with heavily boned glazed black cotton and has figure enhancing pads sewn over the bust and underarm areas and has a black cotton petersham that hooks at center front. There are two hooks at back waist-level to connect the bodice to the skirt. The matching seven-panel gored skirt is of black …
Handbag
Handbag. Rectangular frame of cast openwork brass floral designs with traces of gilding. Ball and snap closure and gilt brass suspension chain. Bag is of dark purple crocheted silk, with three different types of beading. Area at frame is plain all-over beading of purple/bronze iridescent cut beads. Below this, and at bottom of bag is fringe of looped beading. The main body of the bag has vertical stripes of beads arranged in horizontal rows. Lined with bright purple silk, trimmed in gold cording. Contains a small gold kid leather purse embossed with a stylized thorn pattern.
Beaded Bag
Handbag. Rectangular bronze frame chased with scrolling floral forms. Ball/snap closure and bronze chain. Body of purse of off-white woven cloth covered in beaded design of red, pink, green, black, and white in an American Indian or possibly Caucasian motifs. Originally lined in pink silk. Frame is marked "Germany".
Mourning Fan
Folding mourning fan. Guards and sticks of plain black wood, shaped but not adorned. The leaf is of plain black cloth. No visible labels, marks or signatures.
Shoes
No Description Available.
Shoes
Pair of lady's shoes of black kid leather and broadcloth. The "high button shoes" have black leather toe boxes with pointed toes and black leather sections at heels which extend from heel up the back of the shoe. The uppers are of black wool broadcloth. Shoes secure at outside edges with 12 circular, slightly domed black buttons. Upper edges lined with black leather, the rest lined with white cloth. The medium-height heel is rounded at sides and back, and squared-off at front. Although not technically a "stacked" heel, the layers can be seen. Maker's label sewn into lining at top: "Wichert / Shoe / Trade Mark / New York U.S.A." Retailer's gilt stamp on inside edge: "Norton's / Gainesville, Tex." Handwritten notation inside boot, just below upper edge: "36-1 36752 / 330".
Sunbonnet
Sunbonnet of off-white calico cotton with a tiny repeated print of three stylized leaves in brown. The brim of the hat is quilted in L-shaped rows of stitching and is very stiff from starch and stiffening material within it. The crown is gathered along the entire length of the seam where it attaches to the brim. The crown and tail are formed from a single piece of fabric, and the tail is stitched flat to the lower sides of brim. The neck is adjustable, having outer neck ties stitched to the lower corners of the brim on both sides. The chin ties are of the same fabric, with unfinished edges. The long tail on the bonnet indicates that it was used as a field bonnet. The TFC thanks Rebecca Jumper Matheson for her research on this object.
Boots
Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of black and tan leather. The lower section of the shoes, designed with pointed toes, are of black leather. The upper sections, of tan leather, close along center front with laces, 17 holes high. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Sole of black and tan leather. Stamped on sole: "TEDCO / Trade Mark" Stamped on lining: "435 72307 4" and "Tedco"
Boots
Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of tan leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, are of tan leather which close along center front with laces, 19 holes high. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Heels covered with matching leather. Sole of tan leather. Stamped on lining: "H.Seligmann / Seguin, Tex." and "356 10146" Stamped on sole is a wreath containing an image of a shoe and label "Duchess".
Bonnet
Child's sunbonnet of white cotton. Channel-stitched. Corded brim that also stiffens and shapes bonnet. Long curtain of same.
Bonnet
Infant's bonnet of white cotton, possibly as part of a christening set. Lace inset and tucking near brim. Gathered shell. Ties of self.
Shoes
Pair of shoes of ivory kid leather. Designed as "flats" with pointed toes, the shoes have a wide strap across instep, to which is applied large silk bow embellished with small white beads. Top of upper with edged with thin band of ivory silk ribbon. Maker's mark stamped inside: "Brandt's / St. Louis"
Bonnet
Child's poke-type bonnet of white silk. Completely shirred and trimmed with white satin ribbon, outlined with lace. High crown to which circular shirred flange has been added. Label inside crown mostly illegible; last word is "Chicago".
Child's Dress
Child's "apron" dress of woven red and blue striped flannel with collar and one box pleat in front. Center front opening with snap at neckline. No belt - possibly missing.
Dressing Gown
Dressing gown/wrapper of black peau de soie. Mother Hubbard style, full-length, shawl collar trimmed with 2 tiers of ruffles of same, and white lace and black velvet ribbon and then bands of white cording overlaid with/couched down with black stitching. Long sleeves with turned 3" back-turned cuffs with white cording and black velvet trim. Hook and eye closure CF. Long velvet ribbon ties at throat. Pleated at center back, with short horizontal diamond-shaped "belt" across lower back, below which is more pleating. Label: "Meyer Jonasson & Co / Pittsburg. New York"
Driving Coat
Driving Coat or "Duster" of light tan linen (blend?). Full-length, wide skirted, with high neckline and black collar having wide points at front. Single breasted opening set to left of center, with two hidden small white buttons (1 at throat, one at left collar bone), and five large circular buttons with black outer rims and center of the tan linen. Full-length sleeves with wide turned-back cuffs faced with black and with two non-functioning buttons matching but smaller than opening buttons. Two large patch pockets at hips. Unlined. No labels in garment.
Evening Cape
Black plush evening cape with midnight blue(?) soutache braid trim.
Evening Coat
Evening coat of black silk with overly of heavily embroidered black net ending in hand-knotted fringe over georgette ruffle.
Mourning Jacket
Ladies' mourning jacket of black velvet.
Afternoon Dress
Afternoon or dinner ensemble of ivory Irish crochet lace.
Child's dress
Child's dress of white linen. Sleeveless, possibly a pinafore. Machine and hand stitched. Bobbin lace ruffles on armscyes, neckline and borders of front panel. Three vertical panels of vertical pin tucks at front. Two inserted front panels and ruffle at hem of machine lace with elements of white work and open work embroidery; scalloped hem. Two drawstrings at waist that tie at the back and two buttons to close placket at back.
Infant's dress
Infant's batiste cotton dress. Lace ruffled at neckline, sleeve cuffs, and center front button placket.
Infant's gown
Infant's long gown of white cotton voile with paired pin tucks at front and back bodice. Lace trimmed neckline, sleeve cuffs and center back opening. Button closure.
Girl's dress
Girl's dress of white cotton gauze with bodice of tucks and lace inserts. Squared neckline trimmed in lace. Short sleeves with lace trimmed cuffs. Drop waist and gathered skirt with wide horizontal tucks at the hem. Center back button closure.
Child's dress
Child's white cotton dress. Gathers at rectangular yoke. Neckline and sleeve cuffs trimmed in elaborate eyelet lace embroidery. Three horizontal tucks at the wide hem. Center back button closure.
Infant's gown
Infant's long gown of white cotton voile with yoke of vertical lace inserts and high ruffled collar. Sleeves trimmed in matching lace. Hem seam trimmed in white feather stitch.
Infant's slip
Infant's long slip of white cotton batiste. Tiny fagoting at hem ruffle with broderie anglaise along bottom edge. Sleeveless; rounded neckline. Center back button closure.
Child's slip
Child's slip of white cotton. Neckline and armscyes trimmed in machine lace. Two tucks and eyelet embroidered ruffled hem.
Toddler's dress
Toddler's dress/slip of white cotton voile. Bodice is double faced; skirt gathers at natural waist. Attached hem has three rows of horizontal pin tucks with white work embroidery of heart-shaped leaves and scalloped eyelet hem. Snap closure on back.
Child's dress
Child's dress of white cotton voile with 'V' inset at neck trimmed in tiny French knots and feather stitch white work embroidery. Release tucks on bodice. Horizontal tucks at wide hem. Neckline and sleeves trimmed in lace and feather stitch embroidery. Center back button closure.
Child's slip
Child's slip of white batiste slip. Button shoulders; lace trimmed neckline and armscyes. Tatted trim at the hem. Evidence of smocking dropped waist, now released.
Infant's nightgown
Infant's long nightgown. Both sides of bodice trimmed with pin tucks and zig zag feather stitch white embroidery on front. Sleeve cuffs, neckline and front opening trimmed in lace. Front button closure.
Girl's dress
Girl's white cotton batiste dress. Rounded yoke is pin tucked with inserted broderie anglaise lace. Full ruffle at yoke and hem. Long sleeves with cuffs. Center back button closure.
Infant's dress
Infant's long dress of ribbed white cotton batiste. Tucks on front and back bodice; bobbin lace ruffle on neckline. Elbow length sleeves.
Detachable collar
Men's white celluloid detachable button-on, fold down collar. "1236 / Stockton / 15" "Trade Mark / National / The Parsons and Parsons Co. / Cleveland, Ohio / U.S.A"
Detachable collar
Men's white celluloid fold down detachable collar. "Wheeler / 17" "Trade Mark / Nabonide / The Parsons & Parsons Co. / Cleveland, Ohio"
Vest
Vest of ivory cotton damask. Single breasted with closure of five pin shank, mother-of-pearl buttons; four welt pockets. Lined in ivory cotton. Labels sewn inside straps of adjustable belt: Maker's label: Rosenwald & Weil / Makers Chicago Retailer's label: Harrells / Austin, Texas
Detachable collar
Men's detachable collar. "Arrow / Cluett,Peabody & Co. / U.S.A." "Kalitan / Form-Fit" "14"
Detachable collar
Man's detachable white collar. "Trade Ide Mark / Geo. P. Ide & Co. / U.S.A" "Glanson / Linocord Buttonholes / 1284" "16"
Detachable collar
Man's detachable white collar. Markings: "Trade Ide Mark / Geo. P. Ide & Co. / U.S.A." "Moraine / Linocord Buttonholes / 2573" "14"
Detachable collar
Man's detachable white collar. "Trade Ide Mark / Geo. P. Ide & Co. / U.S.A." "Glanson / Linocord Buttonholes/ 1284" "16"
Detachable collar
Man's detachable collar of plain off-white fabric over card(?). Stamped on reverse: "Trade Ide Mark / Geo. P. Ide & Co. Inc. / U.S.A." "Gordon / linocord buttonholes / 775" "14 1/2"
Detachable collar
Man's detachable collar of plain off-white fabric over card(?). Stamped on reverse: "Trade Ide Mark / Geo. P. Ide & Co. Inc. / U.S.A."; "Gordon / linocord buttonholes / 775"; "14 1/2"
Detachable collar
Man's detachable collar. Plain off-white fabric over card(?). Stamped on reverse: "Trade Ide Mark / Geo. P. Ide & Co. Inc. / U.S.A." "Idedell / Linocord buttonholes / 4208" "14 1/4"
Detachable collar
Man's white detachable collar. Rounded tips. Handwritten "13" at back neckline.
Detachable collar
Man's detachable standing collar of white starched linen. Square corners. Stamped: "Linocord / Eyelet / Buttonholes / Reg. U.S. Pat. Off." "242" "Silver Brand" "Senator / Geo. P. Ide & Co." "14"
Detachable collar
Man's white detachable fold over collar of starched white linen. Stamped: "Trade Ide Mark / Geo. P. Ide & Co. / U.S.A." "Sussex / Linocord Buttonholes / 2162" "14 1/2"
Reversible collar
Man's detachable collar of white card stock(?) Stamped on reverse: ""Linene / Trade Mark" "ONC"; "Trade 'Sinene' Mark / Tasso Patented April 17, 1877 / Reversible Collar Co., Boston, Mass. USA" "15"
Reversible collar
Man's detachable collar of white card stock(?). Stamped on reverse: ""Linene / Trade Mark" "O.N.C." "Trade 'Sinene' Mark / Tasso Patented April 17, 1877 / Reversible Collar Co., Boston, Mass. USA"; "15".
"Superior" detachable collar
Man's detachable collar. Exterior of red cotton with white stitching around edge. Inner part/lining of white cotton twill fabric. Stamped on reverse: "15" "Superior" "Frank & Co. / Makers / Nashville, Tenn."
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