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Mourning Ensemble - Bodice and Skirt

Description: Black silk mourning ensemble consisting of bodice and skirt. The bodice of black silk is fitted and boned, with a high, standing black silk band collar with appliqued black lace medallions. It has full-length, modified bishop sleeves that gather into the armseye. Below the gathered cap, in the portion corresponding to the upper arm, the fullness of the sleeve is controlled with top-stitched vertical tucks. From the elbow to the cuff the fullness is again released in a bishop sleeve silhouette. … more
Date: 1900/1903

Handbag

Description: Handbag. Rectangular frame of cast openwork brass floral designs with traces of gilding. Ball and snap closure and gilt brass suspension chain. Bag is of dark purple crocheted silk, with three different types of beading. Area at frame is plain all-over beading of purple/bronze iridescent cut beads. Below this, and at bottom of bag is fringe of looped beading. The main body of the bag has vertical stripes of beads arranged in horizontal rows. Lined with bright purple silk, trimmed in gold c… more
Date: 1900/1909

Beaded Bag

Description: Handbag. Rectangular bronze frame chased with scrolling floral forms. Ball/snap closure and bronze chain. Body of purse of off-white woven cloth covered in beaded design of red, pink, green, black, and white in an American Indian or possibly Caucasian motifs. Originally lined in pink silk. Frame is marked "Germany".
Date: 1900/1920

Fan

Description: Folding fan made of thin polished wood or bamboo guards lacquered a dark mahogany and dyed purple. Paper leaf with hand-painted abstract design of flowers and foliage on a reddish ground. Metal bail. Reverse is unadorned. No visible labels or marks.
Date: 1900/1950

Hat

Description: Hat of off-white silk over straw base. The crown slightly rounded at top, covered in off-white silk, with ruching and folds around side. Affixed to sides of crown at various points are artificial flowers of various colors of velvet. The medium-width brim is circular, of woven straw, originally covered with off-white silk, now mostly perished. The inside of the crown is lined in off-white muslin, partly shattered, and the underside of the brim was originally lined in white silk, now mostly pe… more
Date: 1900/1910

Shoes

Description: Pair of lady's shoes of black kid leather and broadcloth. The "high button shoes" have black leather toe boxes with pointed toes and black leather sections at heels which extend from heel up the back of the shoe. The uppers are of black wool broadcloth. Shoes secure at outside edges with 12 circular, slightly domed black buttons. Upper edges lined with black leather, the rest lined with white cloth. The medium-height heel is rounded at sides and back, and squared-off at front. Although not… more
Date: 1900/1909
Creator: Wichert Shoe (New York, New York)

Sunbonnet

Description: Sunbonnet of off-white calico cotton with a tiny repeated print of three stylized leaves in brown. The brim of the hat is quilted in L-shaped rows of stitching and is very stiff from starch and stiffening material within it. The crown is gathered along the entire length of the seam where it attaches to the brim. The crown and tail are formed from a single piece of fabric, and the tail is stitched flat to the lower sides of brim. The neck is adjustable, having outer neck ties stitched to the low… more
Date: 1900/1909

Hat

Description: Hat of silk. The off-white silk crown is domed, with excess fabric forming a ruched band around the lower part of the crown. The front and sides of the crown are embellished with embroidery and needlework of large flowers and foliage in white. Around the base of the crown is a band of white grosgrain ribbon, with rosette and trailing ribbons at side. The medium-width oval brim is of white silk over stiffened mesh framework, with outer band formed by openwork stitching. The brim is set off-c… more
Date: 1900/1910

Boots

Description: Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of black and tan leather. The lower section of the shoes, designed with pointed toes, are of black leather. The upper sections, of tan leather, close along center front with laces, 17 holes high. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Sole of black and tan leather. Stamped on sole: "TEDCO / Trade Mark" Stamped on lining: "435 72307 4" and "Tedco"
Date: 1900

Boots

Description: Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of tan leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, are of tan leather which close along center front with laces, 19 holes high. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Heels covered with matching leather. Sole of tan leather. Stamped on lining: "H.Seligmann / Seguin, Tex." and "356 10146" Stamped on sole is a wreath containing an image of a shoe … more
Date: 1900

Shoes

Description: Pair of shoes of ivory kid leather. Designed as "flats" with pointed toes, the shoes have a wide strap across instep, to which is applied large silk bow embellished with small white beads. Top of upper with edged with thin band of ivory silk ribbon. Maker's mark stamped inside: "Brandt's / St. Louis"
Date: 1900/1909
Creator: J.G. Brandt Shoe Co.

Bonnet

Description: Child's poke-type bonnet of white silk. Completely shirred and trimmed with white satin ribbon, outlined with lace. High crown to which circular shirred flange has been added. Label inside crown mostly illegible; last word is "Chicago".
Date: 1900/1909

Capelet

Description: Capelet of dark brown to black plush, possibly silk and cotton, resembling seal fur. Rounded roll collar trimmed in brown soutache braid stitched with a line of purple thread and black glass or jet beads. Center front opening with hook & eye at neck. Trimmed in light brown with purple soutache braid and hexagonal prism, black glass beads. Collar and center front opening bound by black braid (appears to have been added after the original garment was made). Fully lined in a printed polished cot… more
Date: 1900

Day Coat

Description: Daytime coat of black wool for mourning wear. The princess-line shell of the coat falls to mid-calf with a scalloped hem, and has a high standing band collar lined with a gathered black silk ruffle. The ruffle is edged with two narrow bands of ruching and is embellished with cut-work backed in black silk, the cut-work edged with black grosgrain ribbon decorated with black beads and jet. From the center front of the collar, trailing black silk ribbon accents fall to knee-length, and four knee-le… more
Date: 1900/1905

Dressing Gown

Description: Dressing gown/wrapper of black peau de soie. Mother Hubbard style, full-length, shawl collar trimmed with 2 tiers of ruffles of same, and white lace and black velvet ribbon and then bands of white cording overlaid with/couched down with black stitching. Long sleeves with turned 3" back-turned cuffs with white cording and black velvet trim. Hook and eye closure CF. Long velvet ribbon ties at throat. Pleated at center back, with short horizontal diamond-shaped "belt" across lower back, below … more
Date: 1900

Driving Coat

Description: Driving Coat or "Duster" of light tan linen (blend?). Full-length, wide skirted, with high neckline and black collar having wide points at front. Single breasted opening set to left of center, with two hidden small white buttons (1 at throat, one at left collar bone), and five large circular buttons with black outer rims and center of the tan linen. Full-length sleeves with wide turned-back cuffs faced with black and with two non-functioning buttons matching but smaller than opening buttons.… more
Date: 1900/1914

Dress

Description: Day dress ensemble: A) Bodice of ivory crinkled cotton gauze with a tiny floral print in vertical stripes and waves. High standing band collar with lace yoke and matching cotton ruffle around shoulders; trimmed with two rows of thin dark brown ribbon. Long sleeves are gathered in armhole and are completely covered in pin tucks which open and flare out at wrists; wrists trimmed in two narrow rows of dark brown velvet ribbon. Button closure at left side shoulder and under armseye; string tie of… more
Date: 1900
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