Black velvet evening gown with beaded jacket. a) Jacket: heavily beaded, sequined and embroidered. Cropped, tailored shell with the colors black, gold, green and burgundy predominating. Curved open neckline with full-length set-in sleeves. Piece embroidered. Fully lined in black silk. Designer's label stitched center back, below neckline: "Oscar de la Renta" with hand written style number(?) "5250s" Tag attached below designer's label: "Made in U.S.A." b) Dress: Strapless, full-length, fitted black velvet sheath. Zipper closure down left side seam with hook&eye at the neckline. Hip-level pockets. Neckline, waistline and pockets decorated with gold cord and bugle bead trim. Decorative center front waistline accent of gold-tone metal trimmed with sapphire and emerald rhinestones. Black grosgrain waist stay with double hook&eye closures. Fully lined in black silk. Designer's label stitched center back: "Oscar de la Renta" with hand written style number(?) "5250s" Tag attached below designer's label: "Made in U.S.A."
Dress of off-white silk. Ankle-length dress with V neckline at front and back with piped edge and with long, lightly puffed sleeves supported by small pads. Hem and sleeves with fine rolled hems. At front is a wide, dropped, cross-over band at waist which repeats at back, the back forming a yoke into which the skirt gathers. Lapped zipper closure on left side. The entire garment has pleating inspired by the designs of Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo,(May 11, 1871–May 3, 1949) Acquired by the donor at the Fort Worth, Texas, branch of Neiman Marcus.
Dress of blue chiffon. The floor-length dress is formed of two layers, an inner sheath, and an outer layer which is fully ruched, covering the inner sheath completely with layers of draping, and affixed to the inner layer at the neckline, zipper, and at cuffs. The dress has a V-neck at both front and back. The ruching forms "swags" which join at the neckline and center seams on front and back. The three-quarter length sleeves are similarly ruched, anchored along seams running from shoulder to wrist. Center back zipper and hook-and-eye closure. Inner grosgrain ribbon band just below bust which secures with hook-and-eye closure. Designer's label sewn inside at ribbon band: "Halston".
Full-length evening dress of copper and olive polyester. Bodice has two sections of material which form a v-neckline in front and which are joined in back of neck by 3 cloth covered buttons, separating and falling almost all of the way down the back of the dress. Empire waistband,3 ½” wide, is gathered and pleated and wraps around to the back. Full-length wrap-style skirt. Center back zipper closure. The bodice is lined in orange polyester.
Men's pajamas of silk crepe. The two-piece set consists of a top and pants, both made of silk crepe printed with a design of large eyes decorated with teardrop-shaped colored "gems". The top has a rounded notched collar, long sleeves, and a patch pocket at left breast. The center front opening has four circular black buttons. The collar, center-front opening, and pocket are edged in black trim. Unlined. The top has a designer's label inside at back collar: "Todd / Oldham" The full-length pants are wide-legged, and have a drawstring in the waistband. The pants have four labels sewn in: Designer's Label: "Todd / Oldham" Size: "S" Content: "100% / Silk" Care: "Dry Clean / Only / Made / In U.S.A."
Ensemble of red/coral/dark rose satin. The strapless dress has an empire bodice which curves up in front at bust and is lower in back. The full-length A-line skirt is pleated into the waistband with inverted box pleats. The gown has a center back zipper closure with two hook-and-eye closures and two snaps on the placket. The inner construction is complex, with red grosgrain ribbon bust and waist stays with hook-and-eye closures and a boned white horsehair inner bodice which is lined with red chiffon. Inner structure has its own center back zipper closure which is behind outer zipper. There is an attached full-length red satin petticoat with horsehair hem and nylon net inner structure to support front skirt pleats. The skirt is piece lined in red chiffon. The accompanying bolero jacket is of matching red satin with all-over quilting in a patterns of waves and arcs in a red thread. The cropped jacket is semi-fitted, and has an open curved neckline and center-front opening with no closure, all trimmed in a band of red satin. Each of the set-in long sleeves has a (non-functioning) large, red satin-covered button near the cuff; the cuffs are trimmed in a band of red satin. The jacket is lined in olive green satin, which shows the quilting, and has built-in shoulder pads. There are no labels in the garment.
Evening gown of ivory satin and black lace. Garment is a full-length, A-line ivory satin dress with 3 wide horizontal bands of applied black lace on skirt and an attached black lace empire-style over-bodice. The bodice, consisting of overlapping lace scallops, has a deep square neckline and full-length sleeves. There are two covered snap closures on each wrist and a series of paired covered snap closures down center back. The dress has a center-back zipper with a single hook-and-eye fastener at the neckline. The ivory silk inner bodice has internal steel(?) boning for shaping, and fastens with a center-back zipper and internal grosgrain band waist stay. Inside the gown is a full-length, attached ivory satin slip with horsehair hem. The dress is piece-lined in ivory organza with a horsehair hem. Designer label stitched into garment at right center-back, beside the zipper "Oscar de la Renta" with second label "Made in U.S.A." sewn below. Hand written on the designer label is notation "4677S".
Ensemble of gold and silver Lurex knit consisting of blouse and skirt. Long sleeved blouse with round neckline and ties at wrists. Trimmed at lower hem with wide black ribbon which ties at side. Matching full-length skirt. On both pieces the knitting is done to simulate the effect of fine pleating. Each piece has designer label.
Evening dress of blue silk gazar. The full-length dress has a fitted bodice simulating a wrap style, with V neckline, and long straight sleeves with 5 fabric buttons at each wrist. The skirt has an asymmetrical peplum with an inverted opening in front that is equal to the floor length A-line skirt, giving the effect of an over-skirt pulled back to reveal an underskirt. At back is a zipper closure from neckline to below hips, with a series of snaps at the top of the peplum. The dress has an accompanying leather belt covered with the same blue silk gazar.
Ensemble consisting of a dress and jacket. The floor-length evening dress is in ivory and beige brocade woven with a small floral motif throughout. The gown is strapless, and has an empire waist. The neckline rises slightly in front with a narrow "V" cut at center. There is a zipper closure at left side, with a hook-and-eye at top. Internal foundation with a separate zipper closure at left side, boning, bust pads, and two grosgrain ribbon bands with hook-and-eye closures. The gown is lined in dark ivory silk. The matching short jacket is of the same fabric, cut bolero style with long sleeves. Center front opening has one hook-and-eye closure at top of bust. The neckline, center front opening, hem, and cuffs are all trimmed in a band of dark brocaded material edged with faux pearls, gold braid, and coffee-colored rhinestones. The jacket is embellished throughout with floral and foliate forms in faux pearls, gold beads and gold braid. It is fully lined in ivory silk. Both garments have designer's label inside: "Givenchy / Made in / France"
Hat of yellow straw. The woven straw hat has a boxy, cylindrical crown, flat on top. The brim is also of yellow woven straw, and turns up to to vertical very close to the crown forming a high "wall" around the crown. Crown is unlined, with a pink grosgrain ribbon inside around the base of the crown. Sewn to inner ribbon band is designer's label: "Frank Olive".
Evening coat of brocade and fur. The full-length coat is of a pale yellow silk brocade, with a pattern of flowers and scrolls in reds, purples, blues, white, silver, and gold. It has long sleeves and opens along the center front, with no closures. The cuffs and collar are wide bands of dyed purple fox fur. The coat is lined in a pale tan/yellow silk. Sewn in below collar at inside center back is designer's label: "Designed / by Mouratidis / Washington DC" Attached inside right side near hip is original paper label printed on one side "Balenciaga / Paris", and written on the back "Brocade evening mystery / coat w/fox / R". Donated to the Texas Fashion Collection by Helen Noumas, in memory of her partner Michael Mouratidis, designer of the piece.
Pair of tan and black leather sling-back pumps. Uppers of tan/brown leather with black leather toe cap. Sling-back strap with gilt metal buckle. 2 3/4" continental heel covered in tan/brown leather. Shoe lined in putty colored leather. Sole of natural brown leather. Stamped in each shoe: "Made in France"; Chanel / [logo]". Stamped inside upper: "105002 37". Stamped on sole: "37 / DE / [logo] / Coupe monte fini main".
Pair of pumps of plastic and leather. The pumps are of a plastic printed with a multi-colored hologram surface of stripes with stars, stripes and dots. 3" spike heels covered with blue leather. White leather inner. Sole of brown and black leather. Label inside each shoe: "Stuart Weitzman / for / Mr. Seymour". Stamped inside each shoe: "5W 79087 N 7 1/2" Stamped on sole: "Leather / Sole" in hide outline; Stuart Weitzman & Co / Made in Spain"
Pair of speckled taupe leather pumps. Uppers of light taupe leather embellished with tiny grayish flat pebbled textural design. Toe cap of black patent leather. 3 3/4" spike heel covered in black patent leather. Lined in olive leather except inner heel, which is lined in natural light brown leather. Soles of black leather. Stamped in each shoe: "Charles Jourdan / Paris / Made in France". Stamped inside each heel: "37 X 7 2A 586855 NF". Stamped on sole: "Leather / Leder / Cuir / Made in / France"
Pair of D'Orsay pumps of pink leather. The shoes have cut-away sides and rounded toes. The toebox and heel uppers of pink leather, with pink leather strap from heels to secure around ankle with small oval gilt metal buckle. 3 1/4" high stacked wooden heel tapers to base. Stamped leather label inside: "Joan & David Too / Made in Italy" Stamped on sole: "Made in Italy / Vero Cuoio / 8 1/2"
Navy blue and white leather pumps. All leather pumps of navy blue leather printed with a polka dot white button motif. Heel and toe of shoe are of solid navy blue leather. Lined in embossed gold leather. Black leather sole. Designer's label stamped inside: "Bruno Magli / Made in Italy Bologna" Satmped inside: "C 4141 11702 5 1/2B"
Pumps of black kid leather. The shoes have a pointed toe and 3 1/8" high stiletto heel. The shoes are enhanced by a draped leather detail at outside vamp/instep of each shoe which is gathered and bound by a semi-circular strap of reptile skin. Designer: "Bally / Made in Italy" Stamped on sole: "Vero Cuolo" within outline of a hide, and " 8 M"
Pair of shoes of gold leather. Designed with slightly pointed toes, the shoes are modified D'Orsay pumps, with open toe formed by crossed-over wide straps at vamp, and with cut-away sides on the outside of shoe. High stiletto heels covered with same leather, tapering to base. Lined in silver leather. Designer's label stamped inside: "Bruno Magli / Bologna * Made in Italy" Stamped on sole: "7 / Vero / Cuoio"
Slingback pumps of red satin with gold metallic leather at pointed toe. The shoes have a 3" high square spike heel, and are lined in gold metallic leather. Back straps has square, textured gold-colored metal buckle on outside of foot. Designer label: "Chanel / Made in Italy"
Pair of pumps of silver satin. Square toe shoes, with 1 3/4" high square Cuban or modified Louis heel. Donor wore these shoes with an ensemble by Michael Faircloth (TFC 2011.026.002) Designer's label inside each shoe: "Stuart Weitzman" Marked inside of each shoe on side: "S249146 9 B" Stamped on each sole: "Leather / Sole / Stuart Weitzman / Made in Spain".
Pair of platform pumps. Shoes are of brown patent leather, with white top stitching. Pointed toes, and a 4" block set-back heel. Stamped in each shoe: "107 N 7"; "Yves Saint Laurent / Paris". Stamped on soles: "Made / Vero / Cuoio / Italy / AA / 7"
Pair of D'Orsay pumps of gray leather. The shoes are designed with pointed toes, and cut-away sides. Toebox has a deep "v" cut at throat of instep, edged with red as is the platform of the shoe. From the point of the cut extends back a t-strap which fastens around the ankle of wearer with a small buckle. 3 1/2" high stiletto heel covered with same gray leather. Stamped inside: "Charles Jourdan / Paris / Made in France" Accompanied by original Charles Jourdan shoebox.
Dress shoe of mint green satin. 2" heel. 'King Louis' style pumps. Pointed toe. Ornament on vamp with embroidery of a pink rose and green foliage on yellow background. Markings: Left- "Pietro / Last / Neiman Marcus" Right- "Neiman Marcus"
Dress shoe of yellow satin. 2" heel. 'King Louis' style pumps. Pointed toe. Ornament on vamp with embroidery of a pink rose and green foliage on yellow background. Markings: Left- "Pietro / Last / Neiman Marcus" Right- "Neiman Marcus"
Hat of purple felt. The hat is visually similar to a toque, but is designed with a domed crown and a brim that turns upwards vertically, forming a high band around the crown. Around the crown is a band of purple ribbon. The hat is unlined, with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label: "Adolfo II / New York Paris" Stamped inside: "100% Wool / 'Excello' / Made in U.S.A. / Geo. W. Bollman & Co., Inc."
Tunic dress of silk chiffon with under dress of silk knit. Tunic dress knee-length, with high-rounded neckline in front and deep, scooped, plunging neckline in back. Neckline edged with spaced large faux pearls. Long sleeves, and handkerchief hem. The tunic dress has overall-embellishment of white pearls, iridescent sequins, white seed pearls, silvered seed beads, bugle beads and crystal drops designed as New York skyline. Evidence that designer's label has been removed. The under dress of white silk knit is ankle-length, with high rounded front neckline and cowl back neckline with horizontal ties and crystal pendants. Handkerchief hemline. Designer's label at side seam: "Zandra Rhodes / London"
Evening gown of black velvet with scoop neckline and long, tapered sleeves. The full-length gown has 3 diagonal-set flounces from left hip to right knee that fall to the hem on right side; flounces are each 7 ½” of pleated synthetic and are slightly ruffled; bodice has crescent princess seams with gathering at bust; straight skirt has a left-side slit; sleeves have single snap closure at wrists; dress is fully lined in satin; center-back zip closure. Combined designer's and retailer's label: "Victor Costa / for / Lord & Taylor"
Evening ensemble of brown silk jersey and sequined appliques. A) Dress. Sleeveless, the full-length sheath dress has 1” wide straps which are embellished with length-wise decorative top stitching. The dress has an empire waist, and a modified sweetheart neckline. The bust is covered with floral/leaf form appliques which are covered in translucent brown sequins and edged in gold metallic thread. Center back zipper closure from top to mid-back, and slit from center back lower hem upwards. Lined in brown polyester. B) Jacket. The matching jacket is of bolero form, cropped short, with no collar and a slightly undulating neckline which continues along the edges of the center front opening, and the lower edge. Long sleeves have cuffs with same edging. The whole jacket is overlaid with floral/leaf form velvet appliques edged in metallic gold threading and covered with sequins in various shades of brown. Jacket has inner shoulder pads and is lined in brown polyester. Designer's label: "Liancarlo / Couture" Retailer's label: "Neiman Marcus"
Evening gown of brown silk. The full-length gown is strapless, with stitched horizontal pleats at left bodice; skirt wraps over toward the left and both crescent shaped sides are trimmed in a pleated ruffle flounce with a shorter ruffle flounce revealing the longer one; bound edges and hemline; lined in brown acetate; center-back zip closure. Designer's label: "Liancarlo / Couture" Retailer's label: "Neiman Marcus"
Skirt suit of gray fine plaid. A) Jacket of gray fine plaid with an over-layer of black floral lace exposing the plaid; lace has scallop trim 2” above the wrists and hem of the jacket. Jacket has round neckline; 4 gray button closure down center-front; long sleeves with inner shoulder pads; lower hip length; fully lined in black synthetic. B) Skirt of matching plaid with 1 ½” waistband with center-back zip and hook and eye closure; darts at front and back; lined in black synthetic; 17” length. Designer's Label: "Bill Blass" Retailer's label: "Neiman Marcus"
Evening gown of red silk jersey with strapless bodice; bodice is fan pleated, with pleating converging at center front and back in a triangle; full-length with dipped hem in back; fully lined in red silk satin; left side zip closure; bust support structure within bodice with side hook and eye closure. Size 4 Designer's label: "Carmen Marc Valvo"
Skirt suit. A) Jacket of ivory wool with shirt collar with long, wide lapel that is rolled around toward the front and held in place by 2 gold coiled ornaments, one on each side; single snap closure at center-front with gold S-shaped ornament over; jacket is fitted at waist with two crescent seams; long sleeves with inner shoulder pads; two diagonal pockets at hips with lapels; lower hip length; lined in soft white synthetic. B) Pencil skirt of black wool with 4 panels and 1” waistband with diagonal snap closure at left back side; left back zip closure; 6” slit at front right; 24” length; lined in black synthetic. Size 38 Designer's label: "Thierry Mugler / Paris" "Made in France"
Skirt suit. A) Jacket of fuchsia flat weave wool with ring collar and zip-front closure; long raglan sleeves with inner shoulder pads; circular geometrical stitched panels at front and back; two circular patch pockets at hips; crescent princess seams; fitted at waist; peplum at back with reverse box pleat and attached belt of self-wool with metal buckle above; lower hip length; partially lined in magenta synthetic. B) Skirt of black stretch wool with 2” waistband with diagonal snap closure; darts at front and back; center-back zip closure; 18 ½” length. Size 38 Designer's label: "Thierry Mugler / Paris" "Made in France"
Dress ensemble of white net lace embellished with silver bugle beads and tiny silver sequins, and beige silk chiffon: A) Dress of beige silk. Bodice with round neckline and no sleeves, and 2" band at empire waistline; 9" upper portion of skirt of floral embroidered net accented with bugle beads and sequins with rows of scalloped bugle beads at bottom from which full-length beaded fringe falls to hem; skirt continues to full-length with vertical stripes of floral lace and silver bugle beads. 18" slit at center-front; center-back zip closure; fully backed with tan crepe. Designer's label near waist inside dress: "by Alfred Bosand / New York". B) Top of white net lace embellished with silver bugle beads and silver sequins; bust and long sleeves of vertical stripes of floral lace and silver bugle beads; lower portion and band collar of floral embroidered net accented with bugle beads and sequins with rows of scalloped bugle beads at top of scalloped collar, and below bust, separating the two sections; pull-over with elasticized waist and center-back snap closure; unlined except for band collar. No label in top.
Jacket of black, green, red, pink, and yellow flannel in a large, painterly plaid pattern. The jacket is just below hip-length, and has a round neckline and no collar. Center front closure has a zipper with a gold metal rose charm pull, matching the pulls of the zippers on the two diagonal slit pockets at hips. Long-sleeved, with three non-functional buttons at wrists, formed as coiled snakes/spirals of gold metal. The jacket has inner shoulder pads and is fully lined in black satin. Designer's label: "Ungaro / Parallele / Paris"
Skirt suit of purple worsted wool. A) Jacket has collar with long lapel with geometric cut edge; geometric cuts along hem line; double breasted snap closure with 2 purple faux buttons at front; princess seams; long sleeves with vents at the wrists, and inner shoulder pads; hits at hips. B) Skirt with two vents at front hemline; center-back zip and hook and eye closure; 19 ½” length. Designer's label: "Thierry Mugler / Paris" "Made in France"
Short evening dress of silver lamé and sequined lace with ostrich feather skirt. Straight strapless bodice with drop waist. Lower skirt covered with vertical rows of beige feather boa. Lined in taupe silk. With matching boa of ostrich feather with silver and gold Lurex thread. Designer's label on inside back shoulder: "Victor Costa" Style number tag under designer's label: "Style 7780 / Size 8"
Evening dress of green crepe with strapless bodice with wide M-shape neckline; bodice is gathered in a zig-zag wrapping and tucking down center-front to hips; skirt wraps around to the left; ankle-length; center-back zip closure; lined in green synthetic. No labels in garment.
Evening gown of black velvet. The strapless, full-length gown is tulip-style, with structured bodice and flaring skirt from just below hip. The interior is lined in acetate with skirt slip trimmed in 2 ruffles of fine net. Inside the bottom of the skirt are 2 under-skirts of ruffled fine net. Gown has a center-back zipper and hook-and-eye closure. Designer's label at inside back: "Patricia Rhodes / PR" Size label: "6" Content/Care label.
Headpiece. Turban-like ring or headband of olive green rayon with a central horizontal band of twisted fabric with single large knot. Bordered all the way around at top and bottom by two layers of the same fabric, pleated and scalloped. Designer's label sewn inside: "Zandra Rhodes / London", with hand-written notes: "100% Rayon / England".
Headpiece. Turban-like ring or headband of olive green rayon. Pleated horizontally with a "cross-over" at front which is edged with pleated scallops of same fabric. Label sewn inside: "Zandra Rhodes / London", with hand-written notes: "100% Rayon / England"
Cocktail dress of black and pale pink acetate with black tulle lace over vest of bust and on trim of sleeves and hem; three-quarter length sleeves with gathering at shoulders, elasticized at forearms, and 4” lace trim; bodice has vest of pale pink acetate with over-layer of black tulle lace; scalloped, soft V-neckline; skirt of black acetate gathered into a satin ribbon at hem trimmed in scalloped lace; below knee-length; center-back zip closure. Designer's label: "Pat Kerr / One / Cumberland Place / London"
Cap of tan, ivory, black and red Tartan plaid cotton with visor. Woven into the fabric are 4 pale images of the Burberrys knight. The cap is lined in tan viscose, with an inner trim of tan grosgrain ribbon. Retailer's label under clear plastic panel in crown of cap: "'Burberrys' / Made in England [copyright symbol]". Content/care label in 4 languages and symbols. Size label: "S".
Ensemble of pink, black, purple and green silk. a) Jacket of multicolored silk jacquard in floral motif. Long straight sleeves; collarless; shoulder pads. Black hand beading and sequins embellishment. Lined in black silk. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Midon" b) Skirt of black silk jacquard in abstract pattern. 1.5 inch waistband backed in black grosgrain with center back zipper reinforced with two hook & bars and large snap. Knee length, kick pleat in back. Lined in black silk organza. Designer's label at center back waistband: "Midon" c) Blouse of multicolored silk in same floral motif as jacket. Long sleeved. Yoked shoulder forms cowl neck. Center back opening with small black round button and string loop.
Coat of intricate patchwork of Prince of Wales wool plaid, wool hounds tooth, wool petit point, all-over embroidered with pewter metallic floral vines. Knee length. Simulated double breasted, off-center opening with hidden placket button closure; notched collar. Long sleeves with 6 functioning button closure at wrists. Two flap pockets with welts at each front hip with lapels; pockets not open. Knee-length. Fan pleating at back. Fully lined in gray silk. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Givenchy / Haute Couture"
Evening gown of dark brown, light brown, and golden yellow silk faille with black velvet bodice. Bodice has a sweetheart neckline and boning at bust; cap sleeves of black tulle heavily embellished with gold beads, brown bugle beads, and brown and black sequins with tassels of gold beads wrap around and trim the back. The full-length skirt of faille is dark brown at top, light brown in the middle and golden yellow at the bottom, each section wraps around from the back and comes to a triangular point at the center-front; under skirts of stiffened double black net. Center-back zip and hook and eye closure. Designer's label: "Bob Mackie"
Picture hat of coiled braided straw. The 4" high domed crown is encircled at the base by a pale purple/lilac ribbon with artificial violets at back with 4-lobed bow and trailing ribbons. The 5 3/4" wide brim is slightly floppy, curving downwards. Hat is unlined, with inner off-white grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label at inside: "From My / Private Collection / Frank Olive" Origin label inside: "Made in Italy"
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