Cocktail dress. The bodice of the dress is of sheer black wool, with a Peter Pan style collar and short sleeves which are shirred at the ends. There is a narrow black satin ribbon at waist where the bodice meets the skirt. The skirt is composed of three layers. The innermost layer is of thick black chiffon, the middle layer is thin black chiffon/crepe. The outer layer is of panels of black and white printed hounds tooth/plaid chiffon, the panels arranged vertically and slit from 5" below waistline to hemline. The panels are gathered/pleated into the waistband. At the top of each slit is an applied black satin bow, forming a row of bows around the hip-line of the skirt. Each panel has side borders of black satin ribbon. The dress has a center-back zipper from neckline to below hips, with a single hook-and-eye at top of collar. There is an inner black grosgrain ribbon waistband, with hook-and-eye closure. The bodice is lined in sheer black material. Designer's label inside skirt: "Galanos"
Pillbox hat of knit material with embroidery and mirrors. The black fabric of the hat is covered with yellow embroidered star shapes and small circular mirrors ca. 1.5 cm. in diameter bordered by red thread embroidery/crochet. Cylindrical crown formed as slightly "crushed", folding in in some areas and bulging out in others, and with gently scalloped lower edge. Top is generally flat, with an applied tear-drop shaped section of the same material, with trailing "ribbons" of same material extending off of back of hat. The edge of the applied panel and the lower edge of the crown are edged with alternating red and black beads, with two strands and two loops of the same beading descending from the between the "ribbons" at top. The inside of the crown is lined in red mesh and edged with red grosgrain ribbon. There are two plastic combs, one at either side, to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label inside crown: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago" Gift of Mr. John C. Murphy, through the Chicago Historical Society.
Hat of white straw trimmed with chiffon, net and a flower. The hat formed as a modified pillbox, with cylindrical white straw crown, very slightly domed. Around the crown is a wide band of ruched pink chiffon overlaid by white netting/veiling. At front is a large artificial silk flower. The narrow straw brim is undulating and rolled. Inside crown is inner red grosgrain ribbon hatband. Accompanied by one short hatpin with simulated pearl head. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Styled by / Coralie". Sewn to the back of the designer's label is a United Hatters, Cap and Millinery Workers Union label.
Hatlet of navy blue wool with embroidery and mirrors. Base of hatlet formed of an irregularly-shaped skullcap of dark navy blue wool decorated with embroidered lines, bands, etc. in red, yellow, and white. Over the surface of the fabric are small 1.5 cm. diameter mirrors in pink and red stitched borders. All edges are trimmed in gray/purple beads. Surmounting the hatlet are three bows of the same materials, and the whole is overlaid with fine dark blue veiling. Hatlet is lined in dark blue mesh and edged underneath with dark blue grosgrain ribbon. Attached to either side is a small plastic comb to secure the hatlet to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". Gift of John C. Murphy, through the Chicago Historical Society.
Hat of multi-colored straw. Based on a beret, the hat consists of a crown of finely woven straw in bands of dark blue, red, white, and dark blue. The crown is formed as a flattened sphere, surmounted by a small sphere of dark blue velvet. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of dark blue/black grosgrain ribbon around the inside base of the crown. Brand label sewn to inner hatband: "Lee Bury / Hats".
Hat of natural colored braided straw. The hat is formed of a flat oval of braided straw, turned up at back, trimmed with a small bouquet of red and blue silk flowers. At the back of the hat, on the segment that is turned up, is applied a black velvet ribbon bow. Extending to either side from the center, beneath the flowers, are black velvet ribbons to tie the hat under the wearer's chin. Designer's label on underside of hat: "Sandy Dallas" Worn by Frances Virginia Parramore Thinnes in 1952 at an event in Abilene, Texas.
Halter-style dress of black wool. V-neck, very low back, sleeveless, buttons up back. Straight skirt with drapery over hips and in front. Country of Origin Label: " Made in France " located on front neckline at right center. Designers Label at inside left on construction detail: " Made in France / Automne - Hiver 1952 / Christian Dior / Paris "
Day dress of gray/white print silk taffeta. Street- or tea-length, of paper silk taffeta printed with a dense design of varying sizes of small white polka dots on a gray ground. V-neckline, with bow of self just below point. 3/4 length dolman sleeves. Full skirt, cut for crinoline. Center back zipper. Designer's label: "Traina-Norell / New York"
Dress of toast brown colored linen. A) Jacket. Waist-length box jacket, with modified mandarin collar, asymmetrical front opening/closure beginning with a button just below center throat, then curving to left, and then down on left front, with a total of five large circular ivory-colored plastic buttons, and a single hidden snap at upper right. Sleeveless. Single patch pocket at right side. Neckline, opening, and top edge of pocket edged with off-white band. Lined in cream cotton(?). No label in jacket. B) Skirt. Street-length, A-line, with darts to the wide waistband. Left fastening, with three hooks and loops at waistband and zipper below. Unlined. Designer's label: "Traina-Norell / New York"
Dress of cream silk faille with printed red and green design of running roses. A) Daytime shirtwaist dress of cream silk faille. Peter Pan collar with ties, short slightly puffed "baby doll" sleeve. Pleated bodice. Center front opening with 6 small circular domed buttons covered in cream fabric. Full A-line skirt, below-knee length, gathered/pleated at waistband. Entire dress with thin vertical printed bands of pink and green running roses. Inner skirt of heavy tulle/net with horizontal bands of horsehair stiffening. Size 12 Combined Retailer's / Designer's label inside inner skirt: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina Norell" B) Belt of cream textured leather covered with matching fabric. Square belt buckle covered in cream fabric. Belt stamped on reverse "28 1/2".
Red velvet calotte. Hat styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), or modified Juliet cap, with low domed crown, straight across back edge, rounded at sides, and with scalloped edge at front. Along lower edge at sides and front is double strand of black silk(?) braided rope, with matching tassels hanging between lobes of scallops. Lined in a woven gold lamé-type material. Designer's label sewn inside: "Edna Mye / Dallas"
Breton hat of black fur felt. The domed crown is encircled at base by a wide band of black grosgrain ribbon, with flat bow at back. The wide brim extends outwards, then curves up sharply, to about 1/3 of height of crown. The brim is faced/lined with same black fur felt. Crown is unlined, with inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Manufacturer's stamp inside crown: "20 % / Mohair / MAHARA / 70% Wool / Henry Pollak Inc / New York"
Coat dress of brown silk faille in "Ottoman" style. Knee or street length, with turndown collar and slight V neckline. Darts at bust for fit. Four button closures at center front with bound buttonholes, two above and two below waist/belt. Hook and eyes at waistline. Long sleeves with rolled cuffs and underarm gussets. In-seam pockets at sides. Flared skirt, pleated in back. Simulated "shirtwaist" decoration at front of skirt. Unlined. Designer's label at inside back collar: "Made in / France"; "Autumne-Hiver 1952 / Christian Dior / Paris"; stamped: "2????" [mostly illegible], on label With matching belt of brown suede. Self-covered buckle of narrow, vertical rectangles secures with hook and bar closure; 1-1/4" wide.
Cocktail ensemble of silver (pale lavender?) heavy faille moire consisting of: A) Cocktail dress. 3/4 length. Sleeveless with thin straps. Shallow V-neck. Natural waist with a bias cut, 1-1/4" set-in waistband between skirt and bodice trimmed with a center, non-functioning gray plastic button. Fitted bust with gores at bust and under-arm. Inverted pleats at front and back center. Center back zipper closure with hook & eye closure at base of bodice. Cream satin lining in bust which descends to become sheath inside skirt. Skirt lined with net. Designer's label at inside center bust: "Made in France / Autumne-Hiver 1952 / Christian Dior / Paris" Stamped "20445" on label. Handwritten label behind designer's label: "250516" B) Matching bolero jacket. Cropped to waist, long sleeves. No collar. Slight V at top of neckline, with deeper "inset" V at bottom. Center front opening with 3 circular gray buttons at base of jacket. Lined in cream silk matching lining of dress. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Made in France / Autumne-Hiver 1952 / Christian Dior / Paris" Stamped "20446" on label. Handwritten label behind designer's label: "250517"
Halter-style dress of black wool. Below-knee-length, with wide strap running from front up and behind neck. Straight neckline at front, with very low rounded edge at back - almost to mid-back. Center front with draped effect at waist, appearing "pulled" from hips, and with central front drape. 2 large pleats from waist at back. Center back opening with 5 self-covered buttons and bound buttonholes, supplemented with hook & eye at top and two hook & eyes at waist, and with zipper under edge of pleat at right of center back. Inner bodice of black net has boning and closes at center back with hook & eyes. Skirt lined in black silk. Country of Origin Label: "Made in France" located on front neckline at right center. Designer's Label at inside left on construction detail: "Made in France / Automne - Hiver 1952 / Christian Dior / Paris" and stamped "20951". Has handwritten style number tag beneath designer's label (mostly illegible): "50938" Retailer's label at back seam of skirt: "Neiman-Marcus"
Daytime ensemble of khaki green cotton twill consisting of: A) Sun dress. Street-length, sleeveless, with deep rounded neckline. Skirt gathered into natural waist with attached narrow tie belt and bow of matching fabric. Center back zipper with hook & eye at back neckline and inner petersham of white grosgrain ribbon. Unlined. Designer's label at left side seam: "Adele Simpson" B) Cropped, bolero or shrug jacket of matching fabric. Embellished all-over with silver stitching "loops", the center of each loop having a circular paillette of reflective silver material. Single snap closure and single hook &loop at base of center front opening which crosses to fasten. Short sleeves. Deep V neckline in front. Lined in cream net. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Adele Simpson"