Evening gown of bright brown satin and black velvet. Form fitted bodice of brown satin narrows at waist and dips to a center front seam, where fabric is gathered and drapes down to full-length skirt; black velvet skirt surrounds CF fabric and creates a fullness at hips. Handwritten cloth tape label in skirt: "Charles James 47" Accompanied by a brassier, not shown in photo. Designer's Label: "This is an original / Madame Adrienne / 35 other pat. pend. / pat. 3072879"
Street suit of gray wool. A daytime or street suit consisting of two pieces. A) Jacket, with squared padded shoulders, no collar, and long sleeves. Opening along the central front, the jacket has a series of 5 hook-and-eye closures, and has a band that extends from upper left, across opening, and secures through a wide loop just below the right shoulder. The jacket is lined in a peach/mauve silk. B) Skirt. The straight skirt was originally just below knee length, but has been lengthened by the addition of material almost matching the lining of the jacket. The skirt has a center back zipper closure. It is currently unlined, but has evidence of the alterations. Jacket: At center back of inside neckline is designer's label: "Gilbert / Original"; at right inside seam: "Frost Bros / San Antonio". Skirt: No labels, possibly removed.
Pair of brown suede D'Orsay Pumps. The shoes have brown suede rounded toe box and heel area, but are open at sides to the sole. Small inverted V cut at front creating "peep-toe" effect. On top of vamp is sewn on brown suede "tie" forming the effect of a bow. Brown suede ankle strap. Thick 3 1/2" high spike heel covered in brown suede. Marked inside heel of both shoes: "17061-1 / 6 S / 11310X"; Stamped on sole of both shoes: "Pandora / Footwear" The D'Orsay Pumps style of shoes is named after Count d'Orsay, a 19th century leader of French Society.
Coat of black wool and chinchilla fur. The full-length black wool coat is tailored to fit at waist and flares out at skirt. Long sleeves, and center front opening with 8 circular buttons covered with same black cloth, and 3 hook-and-loops spaced along the opening. The coat has a Peter Pan collar of brown and taupe striped fur identified as chinchilla. From the hips down to the hem is trimmed with matching fur, arranged so the stripes run horizontally around the skirt of the coat. The coat is fully lined in black cloth. Single retailer's label at inside back of collar: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas".
Pair of black suede pumps. Shoes have peep-toe design and are embellished across the vamp with an asymmetrical design in black ribbon and side 1/2 bow on outer side. 2 1/2" high continental set-in heels covered in black suede. Leather soles, grey leather lining. Printed grey cloth lining with logo "Lastep". Stamped inside heel of both shoes: "D13258 7 1/2A AAA / 6/A". Stamped on sole of each shoe: "The United States Shoe Co. / Reg U.S. Pat. Off. / Red Cross / Shoe" Stamped inside right shoe: "Red Cross Shoes" and "This product has no connection whatever / with the American National Red Cross". Use of the "Red Cross Shoe" brand was suspended during World War II when the American Red Cross objected. It was re-instated in 1948 on the condition they company publicly disclaimed all connection with the ARC. These shoes have the disclaimer stamped in the right shoe.
Glove of pale blue-gray cotton with green undertone. Hands have seams on outside; running stitch of same color; wrists widen and dip in V shape on thumb side; pinkie finger side of wrist features a large scalloped edge. Label sewn in right glove: "Gloves / Designed by / Lilly Dache", with "7" in a circle indicating size.
Hatlet of navy blue and white. The crown of the hat is formed of two hollow teardrop shapes, set with points overlapping, of a coarse navy blue fabric edged in dark blue plastic or vinyl piping. Extending from the point of each teardrop is a partly unrolled cone of the same material with an inner white/cream lining. Extending from the open end of each cone are single segments of the piping. The hatlet is overlaid with blue netting/veiling with a wide mesh and with scattered pairs of blue and white beads affixed to intersections of the mesh. The underside of the hatlet is lined in blue grosgrain ribbon, and has two small elastic cords holding two small plastic combs to secure the hatlet to the wearer's head. Designer's label sewn inside: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago" and an applied label with handwritten "318"
Hat of green felt. Wide, flat crown with upturned brim which is flattened at side. Around crown is wiide, dark green grosgrain ribbon bow which fills flattened area of brim. Around sides and front hang a black net veil; a second large, dark green grosgrain ribbon bow hangs off bottom of the brim at back. The hat is unlined, with a dark green grosgrain ribbon inner hatband, and an elastic cord for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Ruby Ross / 6 East 53rd St. / New York"
Hat of navy felt with eight-pointed brim. Brim lined in white silk. Crown trimmed with navy felt band and grosgrain ribbon with bow in back. Veiled in front. Hatpin in back with head of same felt. Retailer's label inside hatband: "Made to Order Hat / Bergdorf / Goodman / Fifth Ave. at 58th St."
Picture hat of black felt. The crown is formed as a bun, with puffed top, resembling a muffin, cinched in at the base by a visible satin string/stitch with trailing edge/tassel at back. The wide brim of matching felt curves downwards and undulates slightly, and has a decorative stitch near outer edge very slightly gathering the edge. Label sewn inside crown: "Made in America"; "John Frederics Inc. / New York"
Hat of black velvet styled as a cloche. Domed crown with some seaming and "wrinkles" has very small brim of same fabric, with black velvet bow at back as trim. Lined in cream fabric. Retailer's label inside crown: "Neiman-Marcus / Made to Order"
Hat of brown felt. The "safari-style" hat has a domed crown of brown felt, around the base of which is tied a thin band of matching felt, with bow and trailing ends at front. The brim, of matching felt, slopes downwards at front and turns upwards at back. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of red grosgrain ribbon around the inside base of the crown. Sewn to inner hatband is retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus". Accompanied by one short hatpin with simulated black tear-drop pearl head.
Hat of black felt. The low, domed crown of black felt is ornamented with a double-spray of black feathers at front. The brim, also of black felt, is turned up at front and turned down at back. The underside of the brim, which shows at front, is lined in black lace embellished with tiny black sequins and beads (jet?). The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Attached to inner hatband is a small black plastic comb to secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Grace Nugent / Los Angeles, Calif." Supplier's logo mark of Merrimac De Luxe Fur Felt stamped to inside of crown.
Hat of gray fur felt. The derby style hat is made of a single piece of stiffened gray fur felt. The low, domed crown is encircled near the base by a band of black grosgrain ribbon, with a bow at back. The 2" wide brim curves upwards at edges. Hat is unlined, and has a band of black grosgrain ribbon inside at base of crown. Attached to the inner ribbon is a small plastic comb to secure the hat to wearer's head. Designer's label sewn to inner ribbon: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York / 78 East 56th Street, N.Y."
Hat of beige fur felt. The high, domed crown is of beige fur felt, wrapped by a wide silk satin ribbon woven in a plaid of olive green, orange, yellow, red, and tan. The ribbon extends for a significant distance off of the back of the hat to become streamers, and is held at the back of the crown by a circular conch of white shell. The brim is of the same fur felt, set off-center, with wider sections at front/right and shallower sections at back/left. All edges turn up, with a higher area at front/right. The hat is unlined, retaining much of the pelt on the underside of the brim and inside the base of the crown. Manufacturer's(?) marks inside crown, partly illegible. Intended for daytime wear, the hat is styled after the "Aussie" type hats worn by Australian troops during World War II.
Beret of dark brown velvet. The soft, full crown is constructed of several pieces, all gathered into brown satin hatband. Hat is lined in cream silk(?) and has inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband. Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Volk / Dallas". Label of United Hatters, Cap, and Millinery Workers International Union sewn into lining.
Hat of gray felt. The hat is styled as a man's fedora. The crown is of gray felt, canted backwards, with flattened top which is sunken-in. Brim slants down in front and turns up in back, and is quilted with concentric stitching. Remains of threads and holes indicate hat originally had some form of band around the base of the crown. Hat is unlined, with inner hatband of steel blue gray grosgrain ribbon inside base of crown. Affixed to inner hatband is black elasticized cord to secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Valerie / Hat / Paris - New York", with size label sewn to edge of maker's label: "22 1/2"
Lady's gray felt hat. Styled along the lines of a fedora, the gray felt crown is basically cylindrical with dished top and some shaping to provide a front "prow". Set at top edge of crown at back is a bow of matching gray felt ribbon. Around the base of the crown is a wide band of matching grosgrain ribbon as hatband. The shallow brim is set off-center, wider at front and sides than back. Brim curves down. Inside of hat is unlined, but has inner hatband of cream grosgrain ribbon. Maker's stamp on inner hatband: [Coat of arms] Stetson / Fifth Avenue" Retailer's stamp on inner hatband: "W. A. Green Co. / Dallas, Tex." Size tag sewn to inner hatband: "22 1/2"
Hat of deep green felt in modified alpine style. High crown with 2 bows of self as trim. Folded brim around front and sides of hat. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Unlined with green grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Designer's label: "Lorie" Retailer's label: "3410 Oak Lawn / Bernie A. Cahn / Dallas, Tex." Size tag: "registered model / 22 1/2" Paper price tag: "53-4 / 20.00"
Hat of tan/light brown felt. The hat is somewhat in the style of a cloche, with an irregular "partly delfated" crown. At front is a small section of brim which turns up and extends vertically. At back of hat is a small vertical band of same material, with pointed ends. Designer's label inside: "Marcelle Rousseau / Dallas"
Hat of burgundy red velvet. Sailor-style hat has 2 1/2" high crown of burgundy velvet, with narrow, 1 1/2" flat brim of same. The side of the crown is wrapped in magenta colored ostrich feathers, which cover the sides of the crown and the brim. At front of hat is half-veil of maroon mesh accented with chenille dots. Inside of crown lined with green floral-pattern lace, with dark maroon velvet around sides of crown, and under brim. Around inside base of crown is an inner headband of dark red maroon grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Chanda". Accompanied by a short hatpin mounted with large simulated pearl at head.
Hat of gray felt. The cylindrical gray felt crown is very slightly domed, and is set off-center to the brim. The brim, of matching felt, turns up, forming a deep, steep-sided bowl around the crown. The edge of the brim turns in, and is sewn down forming a seam around the inside edge of the "bowl". At left front of the brim is a bow of matching felt. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of gray grosgrain ribbon around the inside base of the crown. Stamped inside the crown: "Body made in Italy". Maker's hand-sewn(?) label affixed to inner hatband: "Jo Bailey / Hats".
Hat of black velvet. The flat crown is surmounted by an arrangement of artificial lily-of-the-valley, with green cloth leaves and cloth and wire flowers/stems. From the back of the hat descends a black velvet snood to catch up the wearer's hair. Designer's label sewn into back of snood: "Yvonne Boutin / 510 Madison Ave, N.Y."
Hat of off white lace. Domed crown. Wide, floppy brim with 2 pink flowers and leaves as trim with one matching flower under brim. Brim is gathered to crown in front. Lined in cream colored net with ivory grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Maker's (retailer's?) label on inside headband at back: "Henrys / Dallas".
Hat of black felt with wide brim that curls up in front to reveal black fur as trim. Wide, low crown. Black grosgrain ribbons at sides for securing hat to wearer's head. Unlined with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Maker's label on inner headband: "Mathias"
Hat of black felt. Cloche style crown of black felt, domed, has high front structure of 7 multi-colored artificial roses of reds, greens, blues, and peach velvet. No brim. Inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York / 78 East 56th Street, N.Y."
Hat of rich brown felt, styled as a fedora. Crown somewhat cylindrical, flattened at top, with slightly indented top square panel. At base of crown is 2" wide band of light brown/beige grosgrain ribbon, with trailing ends. Medium-width brim of same felt, turned up at back and sides, down slightly at front. Unlined, but with inner reddish brown grosgrain ribbon hatband, and attached black elastic cord to help secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label at inner hatband: "Hatnegie Hats Inc. / New York" Style label: "5226" Size label: "21 1/2"
Boater-style hat of off-white straw. The whole hat is of straw woven into shell-shaped segments, connected to form the body of the hat. The cylindrical crown has a flat top, and is encircled at the base by a black velvet ribbon. At either side of the crown are large black velvet bows. The flat, oval brim follows the outline of the crown, and is partly overlaid by a fine black mesh veil with long, trailing ends that are long enough to tie under the wearer's chin. The underside of the brim is edged in black velvet, and there is a black velvet strap which extends down from either side to help secure hat to wearer's head. The hat is lined with a fine white mesh, and has an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon at inside base of crown. Labels sewn into inner hatband: "Marché Hats / Paris New York"; Also sewn into inner hatband is second label, "Consumers' Protection Label / 784619". Hand-written on velvet chinstrap: "59389"
Hat of purple felt. The low, circular crown is mostly flattened, with a slightly undulating surface. Around the crown is a wide band of turquoise crushed silk jersey held in place by crossing bands of fuchsia pink and dark blue purple yarn. The wide, flat oval brim is set just slightly off-center to the crown, giving a wider brim in front than back. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of purple blue grosgrain ribbon around the inside base of the crown. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Henry's / Originals / Dallas". This hat was designed to be worn with a skirt suit of Mexican homespun cotton designed by Adrian, accession number 1967.002.003.
Hat of cotton batik. Styled as a cloche-form turban, the domed crown is constructed of gathered/pleated and wrapped cotton fabric with batik design in beige/brown and blue on white ground. There is no brim. The hat is lined in cream satin, and has an inner hatband of brown grosgrain ribbon along the inside lower edge of the crown. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Marcelle Rousseau / Dallas".
Hat of black seal fur. Hat is brimless with short, flat crown. Round piece embroidered with black cording and decorated with tassels attached to back of hat. Lined in black fabric with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Designer's label: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York / 78 East 56th Street, N.Y."
Hat of natural-colored straw. The domed crown is of patterned woven straw, forming a lace effect. Around the base of the crown is a wide band of light brown grosgrain ribbon, with a bow and trailing ends. The wide brim, of matching straw, curves upwards. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of light brown grosgrain ribbon around inside lower edge of the crown. There are no labels or tags in the hat.
Toque hat of gray felt. The high, cylindrical crown of gray felt flares very slightly to the flat top, which is cut on a slant, and is higher at front than back. The top panel is inset, forming a "ridge" of the top edge. The lower edge is also on a slant, with inner band of same felt extending slightly below the crown. The inner band is cut to form a pointed arch at front. No brim. The hat is unlined, but has an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Sewn to inner hatband is retailer's label: "Titche-Goettinger Co. / Dallas"
Hat of white straw. The low, domed crown is of finely woven white straw, encircled around the base with a wide band of red velvet ribbon, trimmed with gold braid along top edge. At the back, left side, the ribbon has an extended trailing end. At the front, the gold braid runs down the velvet ribbon in two strands, and crosses the brim to attach to a red velvet heart shape which is embellished with borders of pearls and braid, and a central heart shape made of gold bullion braid. The brim of the hat is of matching straw, curling slightly up at edge. Along the front half of the hat is a fine brown veiling. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of red grosgrain ribbon around the inside lower edge of the crown. Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Pfeifers / of Arkansas". A second label is sewn to the side of the retailer's label, with the initials "ADJ" within a rectangle, and the initials "[illeg]SC" below.
Hat of gray felt. Styled similarly to a fedora, the hat has a high cylindrical crown with the top of the crown sunken in slightly. Around the base of the crown is a band of dark blue/gray grosgrain ribbon, with a bow at side. The medium-width brim slants down slightly at front, and turns up slightly at back. Hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of dark blue/gray grosgrain ribbon at inside base of crown. Manufacturer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Norma's / Creations / Dallas".
Hat of pink straw. The open crown is of woven pink straw, as is the wide oval brim. At the front of the hat is a cluster of artificial flowers in pink velvet and green fabric. The hat is unlined, with two inner hatbands of grosgrain ribbon at the base of the crown - one band pink, the other of cream. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "3410 Oak Lawn / Bernie A. Cahn / Dallas, Tex" Accompanied by a single short hatpin with a tan straw woven head.
Hat of purple felt. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the hat consists of a domed crown of purple felt, which extends down on the right side. Tied horizontally around the front of the crown is a wide band of purple taffeta, which passes through slits on the sides of the crown, and emerges towards the back of the right side, tied to become a large "pouf". The hat is lined in purple satin. Maker's label sewn into lining of hat: "Edna Mye / Dallas". The hat is accompanied by two short hatpins, the heads covered with purple felt that matches the hat.
Hatlet of black velvet. Formed as Juliet cap, the hatlet has a crown of black velvet formed as a stiff low dome with shaped edge creating triangular points at front, back, and each side. At each side of the crown is an applied matching velvet bow with trailing ends. The hat is overlaid with black netting, with small black plastic circles worked into the veil's mesh. The hat is lined in blue cloth, and has an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon around the inside lower edge of the crown. Manufacturer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Frances / Dallas, Texas"
Hat of green velvet. The toque style hat is formed as a high, cylindrical crown of olive and light green velvet in a tiny checkerboard pattern. The entire crown, including flattened top, has a small green rhinestone set in each of the light green squares of the checkerboard. At the front of the hat is a bow of olive green velvet. The entire hat is overlaid with an olive green veil/netting. The hat is lined with green satin, and has an inner hatband of dark olive green grosgrain ribbon inside the base of the crown. Sewn to the inner hatband is manufacturer's label: "Paris / Gardner / New York". The hat is accompanied by a single short hatpin with faux pearl head.
Hat of red felt. The crown is of red felt, with sloping sides, and a a recessed flat top center panel. The wide brim is also of red felt, overlaid with a wide pleated band of red grosgrain ribbon which is attached by an inter-woven thin band of the red felt. The hat is unlined, with an inner red grosgrain ribbon hatband inside the base of the crown, and with a bow of red felt at the back, underside, of the brim. A thin black elastic cord is attached to the inner band, to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Edward Paine / New York"
Hat of black organza. The hat is in the form of a pillbox designed as a turban. A wired framework is overlaid with black organza, pleated to form long folds running front to back. At the front of the hat is a large bow of the same material, the trailing pieces pleated to match the crown and affixed to run in same direction. Lined in black mesh, and with inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Elastic string inside to run around back of wearer's head to secure hat. Two small hatpins with custom covers of same material on heads are stuck in back of hat. Designer's Label: "Lilly / Dache / Paris New York / 78th East 56th Street, N.Y."
Hat of black felt. Styled as a tricorne, the crown is of black felt, flattened at top. The wide brim is set off-center to the crown, with more of the brim at sides and front than back. The brim is curled up and in at sides and back, forming a triangular shape, with point at the front. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon along inside bottom edge of crown. Attached to the inner hatband is an elastic cord to secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Jacqueline / Dallas".
Hat of black felt with high crown. Black jersey used as hatband in front; passes through slits at base of crown and loops under chin. Asymmetrical brim is wider and dips slightly in front and narrows and flips up in back. Unlined with cream colored silk inner headband. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Maker's stamp on inside headband: "Knox / Fifth Ave. New York" Retailer's stamp on inside headband: "Sanger Bros. / Dallas, Texas" Size/style number label under inside headband.
Hat of navy blue gabardine. Based on a modified top-hat design, the cylindrical soft crown is slightly "crushed". The brim, of the same material, turns up in front and down in back. At back of brim/crown is a navy blue faille bow with trailing ribbons. The crown is lined in white satin, and there is a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Attached inside crown at back is label: "Margie Webb designs / California Accessories".
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