Evening coat of black and gold brocade in a large scale tropical motif. The wrap-style coat has a shawl collar of red fox fur with kimono style sleeves trimmed in fox. The coat is fully lined in gold silk velvet.
a) Cocktail dress of dark green jacquard silk with black field in a pebble motif. Fitted bodice is sleeveless with slight scoop neckline. Gathered, A-line skirt with inseam pockets. Knee-length. Skirt lined in black silk and bodice partially lined at neck with black organza. Left shoulder separates with 5 snaps. Centered, left side zipper with strapped hook & eye. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "EISA" b) Coat of self fabric has sewn down, drawstring neckline. Three-quarter length raglan sleeves. Open front; knee-length. Fully lined in black taffeta with interlining of stiff netting for fullness. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "EISA"
Charcoal gray wool two-piece suit. (a) Jacket: Fitted jacket of gray diamond twill wool; V-neckline with notched collar and peaked lapels; full-length, two piece, set in sleeves; lapped center front opening with two round, black, plastic buttons and bound buttonholes with snaps between buttons; fronts have shoulder and waist darts; two pairs of faux pocket flaps with buttons on fronts at bust and hip; back has low-slung, self fabric belt buttoned on above two faux vents at hem; fully lined in gray silk. (b) Skirt: Matching princess line, knee length skirt with narrow rolled waistband; straight hip yoke all around; inverted box pleat falls from yoke at center back; offset left side back zipper closure supplemented by one hook&eye closure on waistband; hem is faced with gray silk; fully lined in gray silk.
a) Evening gown of black wool and silk taffeta; top of wool with low scooped, curved neckline cut deep in back with 3/4 sleeves; fitted bodice extends to hip; skirt of silk taffeta; gathered; with silk underskirt. b) Stole of black wool with silk ruffled ends.
Evening ensemble consisting of gold brocade evening gown trimmed in white mink with matching coat and detachable train. A) Evening coat of gold brocade. Ballerina length with short, dolman sleeves. Banded neckline. Center front opening is cutaway in front below waist and tapers to hem. Lined in gold metallic organdy. B) Evening dress of gold brocade with white mink fur trim at the neckline and hips. Full length with princess seaming and slight A-line to skirt. Scooped back. Fur trim around neckline and back goes over shoulders to form straps of dress. Center back zipper. Belt of fur at hips closes in back the 3 covered hook & eyes. Skirt lined in white tulle. Bodice is boned and lined in white netting and closes in back with hook & eyes. Designer's Label: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris" Model label behind designer's label: "74184" C) Detachable train of gold brocade. Train is rectangular in shape and gathers into smocking where it attaches to back of dress with snaps and hook & eyes. Floor length. Unlined.
Cocktail dress of fuschia (cranberry) silk with black feather print; bodice has round neckline and three-quarter length sleeves; skirt is knee-length and very full, gathered at waist and covered by a short piece of self fabric.
a) Gown of pale pink tulle heavily hand embroidered in pink flowers with silver metallic thread, sequins and rhinestones. Strapless with full-length, A-line skirt. Underskirt of ivory stiffened silk and lined in ivory silk. b) Scarf of matching pale pink tulle. c) Original pink satin ribbon sash/belt d) Replacement modern pink satin ribbon sash/belt
Ensemble consisting of: a) Coat of silver lame with jeweled buttons lined in same black wool jersey as dress. b) Tunic top of black wool jersey. Sleeveless with two side slit pockets. Closure at back with two snaps and self-covered buttons. Lined in black silk. c) Pants of heavy black wool jersey. Double side zippers. Designer Label: "EISA"
Two-piece suit of black and ivory plaid wool with black silk blouse. (a) Jacket: Short unfitted jacket of black and ivory windowpane plaid wool; V-neckline with standard notched collar and short lapels.;3/4 length sleeves cut in one with jacket body supplemented by single triangular gusset under arm; lapped centerfront opening with three round, plastic, ivory buttons and bound buttonholes; front has a large pair of faux pocket flaps at lower chest level; fully lined in white silk. (b) Blouse: Semi-fitted short black silk faille blouse with jewel neckline; 3/4 length sleeves are cut in one with blouse body and supplemented by single triangular shaped gusset under arm; centerfront opening laps left over right with four round, black, plastic buttons and bound buttonholes with one snap at neck; folded hem; facings and hem interfaced with black silk organza. Label stitched at bottom of back neck facing. (c) Skirt: Matching plaid semi-tailored, knee length skirt with narrow rolled waistband; slight gathers at front waist; offset left side front zipper closure supplemented by single hook&eye closure on waistband; folded hem; fully lined in white silk.
a) Dinner gown with black crepe skier and white faille bodice; bodice is hand embroidered in irridescent rhinestones, sequins, silver thread, and crystal drops. b) 2" sash of bright pink satin at natural waist.
Evening gown of red velvet. Floor length with wide, rounded neckline with deep scoop in back and 3/4 raglan sleeves. 1/2" and 1/4" round pearl beads sewn 2" apart over entire dress. Full-length, natural waist A-line skirt with slight train. Zipper closure at center back. Unlined with bodice and sleeved interfaced in maroon silk chiffon. Designer's label at inside right side seam under arm: "EISA"
Evening gown of black rayon velvet; bustle trimmed with ermine tails; column shaped; built-in undergarment with boning; bustle lined in buckram. In box with dress: box with spare tails from Balenciaga.
Suit of black ribbed fabric. (a) jacket with notched collar of sateen; center front welted button closure; pink buttons with gold snake; armhole princess seams; double darts from pocket to bust point; faux single welt pockets with gathers; long sleeves with curved half cuffs in pink sateen with button closure; armhole princess seams on back; pink lining; pleat at center back. (b) matching knee-length skirt; waistband; 1 front waist dart; 1 front princess seam; center back closure; waistline darts; black lining.
Ensemble of oatmeal colored wool tweed: a) Jacket of beige and black wool tweed with V-neckline with standard notched collar and wide lapels; short, princess seams; 3/4 length, set in, two piece sleeves; double breasted opening with four round, plastic, beige buttons and two bound buttonholes supplemented by single large covered snap inside lap at waist; fully lined in beige silk. Label stitched inside back neck below collar. b) Dress of same; sleeveless; falling just below the knee; deep rounded neckline; empire waist seam; straight skirt has slight gathers in front; left side underarm zipper closure supplemented by single hook&eye closure; folded hem; armhole and neck facings; brassiere strap keepers snap inside shoulders; unlined.
(At Left) Evening ensemble of brown silk shantung. The camisole is sleeveless, with a boat neckline. Center back closure with 10 small circular buttons covered with matching fabric. The blouse is lined in dark brown silk, and has an inner structure of net and metal boning. The understructure extends below the top to give structure to the skirt. The inner net and boning layer has a center back closure of 14 hook-and-eyes, matching along same line as outer closure. The skirt is of matching materials, A-line, below-the-knee length. It has a 2" waistband decorated with horizontal ruching. Center-back zipper closure with two hook-and-eyes in waistband. The skirt has an attached black rayon gorgette underslip, and an attached black nylon petticoat. The petticoat has a horsehair braid incorporated in the hem for stiffening. The matching swing coat is calf length, with a rolled collar and short sleeves. It is constructed with several layers of organza for structure and a tuck panel around the coat for decoration and flounce. Lined in brown silk. There are no labels in the garment. Photograph is from the exhibition "Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers", held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows suit as displayed. From the original collection of the Dallas Museum of Fashion, which later became the Texas Fashion Collection.
Ensemble consisting of three pieces. Full-length bodystocking is of heavy ivory wool knit, in a ribbed pattern running vertically throughout body and legs, and horizontally around arms. The garment has a turtle-neck and wide flaring cuffs at legs. Center back zipper opening from top of turtle-neck to mid-back. The black double knit wool micro-mini-skirt has four over-sized belt loops with pointed ends, and center back zipper closure. The ensemble includes a wide black patent-leather belt which secures with concealed snaps. Bodystocking has two labels. Designer's label inside at back near zipper: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York"; Material/size label on opposite side: "100% / Wool / L" The skirt has no labels. The belt is stamped on reverse: "12 1851" From the Fall 1969/1970 season. Records indicate that the ensemble was originally offered in the Maisonette Room of Neiman-Marcus.
Evening dress of orange/tangerine silk chiffon with cut velvet fish scale design in silvery white partly outlined with silver bugle beads. Sleeveless, with round scoop neck, and armholes cut to waist. Straight tubular shape with drop waist, with a swag of pleated self-fabric at left hip, trimmed with five rhinestone medallions. 1" fur trim at hem. Dress has been shortened and fur may have been added at that time. Probably originally 1918-20's style.
Evening dress of embroidered silk organza with pink silk acetate lining and belt; square neckline; sleeveless with rhinestone embellished velvet straps attached by rhinestone snaps in front and back; velvet trim; three tiers with pink floral embroidery; pink velvet belt embellished with rhinestones and a velvet flower
Two-piece gray faille moire wool and nylon suit. Jacket is long, with wide notched collar, is double breasted, has bound button holes, and buttons below waist. It has a sculptural double-breasted front panel, that maintains a vertical linear center front, rounded shape visually flanks stomach area. The skirt is straight; slightly below knee length.
Lounge ensemble in pink silks. The pantsuit consists of a blouse and pants. The blouse is of pink silk, constructed as two layers. The inner lining layer is of plain pink gauze. The outer layer is of pink silk heavily decorated with patterns created by shibori technique dying. The blouse has long sleeves and a center-front zipper closure that runs almost the entire length of the garment and has a single hook-and-eye at throat. The collar, cuffs, hem, and flap over the zipper are a small ruffle of the same materials. The shibori patterns use green, yellow, blue, and the original white of the fabric to create bands of tiny "puckers", large circular forms, and abstract shapes. The pants are of pink silk taffeta, about ankle length, with elastic cuffs. Plain waistband, with zipper closure at center front and single hook-and-eye at waistband. Described in early records as harem pants, but lacking the fullness associated with that style. Both garments have the same series of labels. Designer's label: "Martine Grandval / Made in France Paris"; material label "100% Silk"; and retailer's label: "ViV / Neiman-Marcus / Made in France". The shibori fabric may be of Indian, Pakistani, or Asian origin, based on the particular way that the shibori tye-dying technique has been used on the garment.
Dinner dress of printed silk organza. The dress is composed of two parts. The caftan-like outer layer of the dress consists of a square silk organza cocoon printed in psychedelic motifs in purples, blues, pinks and chartreuse. It has a high rounded neckline with center back opening secured with six loops and covered buttons. There are applied flat cuffs at the wrist openings and waist-level slits at center front to accommodate the sash. There is a center front slit from hem to knee-level. The inner dress is a matching, full-length, sleeveless sheath in printed silk of the same design. It has a high rounded neckline with center back zipper closure from neck to hip with a single hook-and-eye closure at the neckline. The outer caftan and inner sheath are joined at the neckline. There is a printed silk organza sash of the same fabric that meets at center front and secures with two hook-and-eye closures and has self ties to disguise closure. The sash is swing tacked at the back. There is a center front slit from the hem to knee-level. Lime green silk panels are inset at sideseams, running from the underarm to the hem, and may be later additions to the garment. The dress is fully lined in green silk crepe. Designer's label located inside left center back, beside the zipper: Pierre Cardin / Paris New York". Retailer's label located inside right center back, beside the zipper: "Maisonette / Neiman-Marcus"
Waist-length black simulated alligator jacket. The cropped shell is constructed of panels of leather blind-stamped to simulate alligator. Panels are edged with silver-colored circular metal grommeted eyelets, and are joined with knitted black cording. The high, rounded spread collar is of ribbed black knit. Zipper closure from throat to hem at center front. The jacket is unlined, and has two interior, black canvas, envelope pockets with snap closures. Label is located inside at center back, below the collar. "Paco Rabanne / Paris Made in France". Jacket was donated as part of an ensemble which also included black wool and cashmere knit sweater by Dior, and black hip-hugger trousers by Remy.
Ensemble in black and oatmeal colored wool, consisting of: A) Jacket: Semi-fitted wool in abstracted herringbone weave with black and oatmeal yarns running double throughout; moderately rounded neckline with asymmetrical mandarin collar; full-length raglan sleeves with overarm seam and undersleeve; double breasted front opening with eight round, plastic, oatmeal colored buttons and four bound buttonholes supplemented by single hook & eye inside lap at waist; vertical welt pockets on front lined in black silk; fully lined in black silk. Designer's label at inside collar: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris" and "Made in France". Retailer's label at inside side seam: "Neiman-Marcus" B) Dress: Knee length dress; bodice of black wool gauze with jewel neckline; sleeveless; lapped centerfront opening with four round self-covered buttons and bound buttonholes supplemented by single snap and hook & eye; bodice gathers into seam at natural waistline; gathered hip yoke of same gauze; straight skirt of matching herringbone has three snaps at centerfront opening; folded hem; gauze is lined in black silk organdy; skirt is unlined.
Dinner dress and jacket ensemble of black wool; (a) Jacket: Short princess line black wool jacket; V-neckline with wide notched collar and wide lapels; full-length, set in, two piece sleeves; asymmetrical lapped front opening with one large, round, filligreed button with rhinestones and bound buttonhole; fully lined in black silk. Label stitched inside back neck below collar. (b) Dress: Matching sleeveless knee length dress with V-neckline in front due to surplice styled opening; fronts secure with four snaps and four hook&eyes; seam detail around bust; back neckline is square between straps; waistline seam with skirt gathering all around; lapped center-front opening in skirt with single hook&eye and two snaps; folded hem; fully lined in black silk. Label stitched inside on lining at right side seam. Size 12 BALENCIAGA, Paris
Ball gown of pink silk taffeta. The off-the-shoulder design has several layers of cream colored Chantilly lace around the neckline/shoulder edge. The dress itself is of bright fuchsia pink silk taffeta with ties over each arm. The bodice is seamed and fitted, with a left side seam zipper. The attached matching taffeta skirt is gathered and draped horizontally, and has several layers of Chantilly lace at hem. The skirt has three hoops under the lining.
Handbag. Cast and chased silver framework decorated with openwork figures of children harvesting grapes. Ball/snap closure. Silver suspension chain of alternating oval links and links formed of three flower-heads. Bag is of black wool with petit point embroidery decoration on each side of a bouquet of flowers. Pink satin lining.
Calotte of beaded black satin. Evening hat in the form of a calotte (also spelled "calot"). The low, domed crown is made of segments of black satin over a core of woven straw. The surface is embellished with black plastic sequins and beads of various sizes. At top of crown is small squashed spheroid finial covered with a pattern of cylindrical and circular faceted black plastic beads. Inside lower edge of crown is black grosgrain ribbon band. Sewn behind band are three elastic loops to help secure hat to head of wearer. No labels.
Dress of red satin and black velvet. The above-the-knee length dress has a fitted princess-line bodice with dropped waist and V-neckline. The long sleeves have moderate puff at shoulders, and wrist closure with four red satin covered buttons on each wrist. The turned-back cuffs are of black velvet, as is the wired, rolled collar. The full skirt gathers at the waistline. There is a center-back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at neckline, and the collar detaches to accommodate the opening. The dress is fully lined in red chiffon, with bust pads and hip stay band which fastens at center back with hook-and-eye. Designer's label is sewn inside at right side near armhole: "Givenchy" "Made in France". Underneath the designer's label is sewn a second label with hand-written notation "80535".
Suit of brown and black wool tweed consisting of jacket, skirt, and vest. a) Jacket: princess line jacket of black and brown wool tweed with ivory slubs running through fabric; V-neckline with narrow notched collar and lapels; full-length sleeves are cut with the jacket body and have two triangular shaped gussets under the arm; sleeves are rolled up to form 1-1/2 cuffs; button front closure; buttons of black crocheted cord surrounding a round faceted black gem. b) Skirt of self fabric with self buttons down center-front; mid-length. c) Vest of self fabric with fabric covered buttons down center-front; fitted; approximately 1" wide shoulder straps.
Light and charcoal gray two-piece daytime skirt suit with leather belt. Fitted jacket of light gray heavy weight wool, having a V-neckline with moderate shawl collar. 3/4 length sleeves are cut in one with jacket body and supplemented by one triangular shaped gusset under the arm. Lapped centerfront opening with two large, round, gray plastic buttons and bound buttonholes supplemented by single hook&eye at waist seam. One pair of faux pocket flaps at bust level. Leather belt. Plain slim skirt of dark charcoal gray wool, just below knee-length.
Cocktail dress of black silk gazar. The halter-style neckline of the dress ends in straps at center back of the fitted, dropped-waist bodice. The skirt is a semi-full, gathered, mid-thigh length. There is a boned inner bodice of black silk tulle with bust pads, grosgrain bust and waist stays fastening with hooks-and-eyes, an elaborate closure involving halter drape and inner and outer zippers down the left sideseam and five snaps that secure the halter panel and disguise the zipper. Fully lined in black chiffon. Label stitched on right side of inner bodice "Givenchy" and "Made In France". Underneath Givenchy label is sewn-in tape with hand-written note: "80 945"
Black "sunburst" evening dress with bustle. The fitted, full-length sheath is of black silk satin with black velvet "sunburst" motif repeated over the dress. The gown is strapless, with diagonally draped over-panels that meet at center front and form a large bow which tilts up to cover the left shoulder. There is a zipper closure along the left sideseam with hook-and-eye closure at neckline which is concealed by the bust panel, which is snapped to the dress and bow. The back waistline seam has a three-tiered ruffled bustle which has a snap at left side to accommodate the zipper. The skirt flares from knee to hemline. There is a boned black silk inner bodice with bust pads and bust and waist stays. The inner bodice has a zipper closure at left side, just inside the outer zipper. Designer's label inside garment, stitched over right side bone: "Givenchy / Made In / France". Photograph is from the exhibition Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers, held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows the gown as displayed with a hat by Balenciaga (Accession #: 1981.022.026).
Pair of black suede boots. Over-calf-height square-toed boots lace up front, with 3 rows of eyelets at bottom and 15 hooks above. Block heel is covered in black suede. Lined in off-white kid leather and with a rubber and leather sole. Impressed in rubber sole: "Made in France". Stamped on lining inside: "Charles Jourdan / Paris" and "8 1/2 2A 468069 LE"
Pair of deep wine red leather pumps. Shoes have a V-throat on vamp and are edged with thin bands of taupe leather around vamp and along outside panel ending in a triangular shape. 3 1/2" Continental set-back heel almost a stiletto, but wider and more oval in cross-section. Stamped in each shoe: "Charles Jourdan / Paris" and "Orient". Stamped inside each heel: "39 B / 63586 E". Stamped on sole: "Leather / Leder / Cuir / Made in / France"
Toque of black satin. Pillbox-like hat has cylindrical crown, slightly domed, and is completely covered in black satin. At front, near base of crown, is a black satin bow from which rises a spray of black feathers. Interior of crown fully lined in black satin, with a black grosgrain ribbon band at base of crown. Sewn to the inner ribbon band is a plastic comb to secure the hat to the head of the wearer. No labels.
Black satin toque hat. Cylindrical in form, with sides curving down along ears/temples. Slightly domed at top, and with an ornament at front consisting of a black satin bow and a group of curled black feathers. Label inside at back: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V / Paris"
Evening dress of blue silk gazar. The full-length dress has a fitted bodice simulating a wrap style, with V neckline, and long straight sleeves with 5 fabric buttons at each wrist. The skirt has an asymmetrical peplum with an inverted opening in front that is equal to the floor length A-line skirt, giving the effect of an over-skirt pulled back to reveal an underskirt. At back is a zipper closure from neckline to below hips, with a series of snaps at the top of the peplum. The dress has an accompanying leather belt covered with the same blue silk gazar.
Ensemble consisting of a dress and jacket. The floor-length evening dress is in ivory and beige brocade woven with a small floral motif throughout. The gown is strapless, and has an empire waist. The neckline rises slightly in front with a narrow "V" cut at center. There is a zipper closure at left side, with a hook-and-eye at top. Internal foundation with a separate zipper closure at left side, boning, bust pads, and two grosgrain ribbon bands with hook-and-eye closures. The gown is lined in dark ivory silk. The matching short jacket is of the same fabric, cut bolero style with long sleeves. Center front opening has one hook-and-eye closure at top of bust. The neckline, center front opening, hem, and cuffs are all trimmed in a band of dark brocaded material edged with faux pearls, gold braid, and coffee-colored rhinestones. The jacket is embellished throughout with floral and foliate forms in faux pearls, gold beads and gold braid. It is fully lined in ivory silk. Both garments have designer's label inside: "Givenchy / Made in / France"
Hat of black velvet. The hat has a circular, slightly domed, crown completely covered in black velvet. At the front is attached a rhinestone and glass(?) brooch formed as firework spray. The central iridescent faceted stone is surrounded by rays or arms of lines of rhinestones simulating diamonds. Some rays arc over the brooch, some hang down. Most are only partly rigid, so that as the wearer moves the rays shimmer and the stones catch the light. The crown is lined in black fabric, with a black grosgrain ribbon running along the inner lower edge. Attached to the inner ribbon band is a plastic comb to help secure the hat to the wearer's head. No labels. Donor attributed the brooch to Balenciaga. Alternatively attributed to Robert Goossens of Paris, who is known to have supplied Balenciaga.
Hat of leopard fur. Similar to a baseball cap, the hat has a pillbox style crown with a crescent-moon shaped visor / brim at front, both completely covered in leopard fur. Around the base of the crown is a black leather hatband. The interior of the crown is lined in a cream brocade cloth, while the visor is lined in leopard. Along the interior base of the crown is a dark brown grosgrain ribbon band. No labels.
Coat of silk gazar with a printed pattern of red and white polka dots on a black background. The mid-length to below-knee length coat has a rolled collar and short sleeves with princess seaming. There is a center-front opening with 5 circular buttons covered with black gazar, and with piped buttonholes. At some seams are applied whole red or white polka dots where the seams had "cut" printed polka dots. Coat has designer's label at inside back, below collar: "Givenchy", folded over and sewn in a way that obscures the rest of the label: "Made In / France". This coat is part of an ensemble that includes a dress of black gazar, and has matching shoes of same fabric made by Roger Vivier of Paris (1979.011.076) Donor notes: "This is the fabric that was invented for Balenciaga and now only Givenchy can have it .... [the coat] is made so that if a dot had to be cut in half at a noticeable place, Givenchy had a whole dot appliqued over it. Monsieur Givenchy does not do this tedious handwork for all clients."
Hat of moss green "plush" velvet. The derby-style hat has domed cylindrical crown with indentations at front and slight crease along crown. Narrow brim, rolled upwards at sides and back. To left of center front is small attached "fan" of various types and colors of feathers. Inside crown is attached small length of black grosgrain ribbon to maintain the front indentations, and a band of black grosgrain ribbon along inside base of crown. Stamped inside crown: Feutre Flechet.
Pair of platform sandals. Silver leather covered black plastic(?) sole with silver metal lace and cords. 4" spike set-back heel. Marked in relief on sole of each shoe: "Made in France". Anonymous gift to the Texas Fashion Collection.
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