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Ensemble - Kutchi Group, Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan
Ensemble - Kutchi Dress, Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan. This assembled ensemble consists of: 1. Dress. Full-length. High neckline, slight V-shape. Front yoke/bib panel of fine needlework geometric shapes and patterns, in orange, purple, green, and blue. Front of bodice with four large embroidered rosettes of silver couching with orange silver/white, and black borders. Over-length, wide sleeves of patchwork of materials, including red, purple, and pink. Cuffs of heavy silver couching with central band of small circular mirrors in needlework frames. High, narrow waistband of silver/gold couching. Front of skirt formed of thin black fabric heavily gathered to form voluminous front panel. Wide band of red fabric lining inside of front panel at hem. Back of bodice formed of red cloth with vertical white stripes. Embroidered panels under arms. Back of skirt formed of upper panel of purple printed with blue and off-white flowers and leaves, heavily gathered into waistband. Lower panel of purple fabric, as full as upper panel. Black hem on back of skirt. 2. Headpiece of silver set with glass and plastic(?) rubies and emeralds, center plaque with glass segments simulating lapis and jade(?). Central circular plaque with central red circular glass "stone" surrounded by 6 alternating triangular green and blue glass plaques forming a star. Star is encircled by ring of glass (plastic?) simulated rubies and emeralds. Outer openwork border. Extending above central plaque and connected by 4 small metal bar-shaped links is a triangular plaque set with same simulated rubies and emeralds. Extending horizontally from central plaque on either side are three rectangular metal plaques set with same simulated rubies and emeralds. All plaques connected by metal bar-shaped links. Hanging below connected plaques is fringe of short metal chain sections terminating in hollow spheres. The plaques are sewn to a narrow black cloth band designed to fit …
Dress - Kutchi Group, Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan.
Kutchi Dress of the Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan. Full-length. Bodice of various fabrics and embellishments. Rounded neckline with slight standing/band collar of primarily yellow bead-work with blue bead squares containing red bead centers. "Collar" below neckline of pendant silver-colored coins. Shoulder areas of purple with primarily yellow stitching forming scroll-work. Front "bib" of dark red outlined with same bead-work as neckline, and sewn with 9 horizontal rows of green tear-drop shaped beads and a line of silver-colored coins. Center part of bodice of black fabric with all-over red reflective circles. Wide "waist" of dress with geometric bead-work band of white, green, red, blue, and orange, with band of small circular mirrors and two lower borders of fringe tipped with white and green beads, and lowest border of coins. Sleeves of dark green velvet with bands of rickrack of silver and gold, and stitching matching the shoulder areas. Edged with bead-work and with row of silver-colored coins. Skirt is full-length, and full, and is of dark blue/black fabric printed with white and grey pattern of small flower blossoms, paisley shapes, dots, leaves, etc. Hem of dress with wide embroidered band, upper section with horizontal band of squares of various colors (reddish, green, orange, pale green, purple), center band of yellow, and lower band of reddish/magenta. Unlined. No labels or tags.
Burqua (Chadri)
Burqua/chadri of blue polyester. Garment covers full body with machine embroidered crown and net covered eye opening. Front of burqua is approximately thigh length and is embroidered in floral motif. Shoulder and back are full length and finely pleated.
Earrings - Kutchi Group, Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan.
Earrings. Pair of heavy pendant earrings of silver-colored metal and glass. Bail loops suspend a roughly semi-circular silver plate with collet-set glass sapphires, emeralds, and rubies. From lower edge of plate are suspended small clusters of flat silver shapes and small spheres. Earrings do not match exactly.
Collar-style necklace
Part of Ensemble: Kutchi Dress, Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan. B) Necklace of ornate silver with glass simulated rubies and sapphires, and coins. "Dog-collar" style necklace of elongated vertical links that interlock. At ends are triangular plaques set with small circular simulated rubies and sapphires, with plain loops for securing. Spaced across collar are 7 attached flowerhead-shaped ornaments with large central oval glass gems surrounded by tiny tear-drop shaped mounts set with circular simulated gems. From three of the flower heads are hung silver mounted coins, from the other four flower heads are suspended triangular plaques set with circular simulated gemstones, and a final "fringe" of flower-shaped and star-pierced pendant forms and a fringe of silver chain ending in a sphere. The entire dog-collar section also has elongated chain/sphere fringe. The three coins are from Afghanistan, commemorating the 1974 Islamic Summit held at Minar, and are dated 1977. No visible marks or hallmarks. Measurements: 14 1/4" wide at widest; 7 1/2" from top of neck to bottom of fringe.
Pendant
Part of Ensemble: Kutchi Dress, Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan. Pendant plaque of silver set with simulated gemstones, trapezoidal, almost triangular. Central artificial emerald stone within border of smaller simulated stones (rubies, emeralds, sapphires). In corners of panel are set single artificial stones. Outer band of stones. Chased outer edges. Upper edge with applied loops/roundels with suns/flower-heads. From bottom edge of each plaque is a fringe of chain ending in hollow spheres. No visible marks or hallmarks. Measurements: 5" high with fringe x 3 1/4" wide at widest point.
Pendant
Part of Ensemble: Kutchi Dress, Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan. Pendant plaque of silver set with simulated gemstones, trapezoidal, almost triangular. Central artificial blue sapphire stone within border of smaller simulated stones (rubies, emeralds, sapphires). In corners of panel are set single artificial stones. Outer band of stones. Chased outer edges. Upper edge with applied loops/roundels with suns/flower-heads. From bottom edge of each plaque is a fringe of chain ending in hollow spheres. Coin suspended from loop at left and right sides of plaque. One of the coins is from Iran, minted before 1980. No visible marks or hallmarks. Measurements: 5 1/8" high with fringe x 4" wide at widest point.
Traditional neckpiece
Afghan Kutchi necklace or bib of ornate silver with blue and red glass cabochons and coins. Body of necklace is formed from chain link in elongated, interlocking vertical links; the base of the necklace is supported by a gray cord woven through the links and is trimmed in small spherical bells. Spaced across collar are seven attached flowerhead-shaped ornaments with large central oval glass gems surrounded by tiny tear-drop shaped mounts set with circular simulated gems from which the four outside ornaments are hung in silver mounted coins; from the three center flowerheads are suspended triangular pendants set with circular simulated gemstones, and a "fringe" of flower-shaped and star-pierced pendants and silver chain ending in spherical bells. Secures with cloth and braided cord which buttons at silver button at back. Measurements: 14" wide at widest; 12" from top of neck to bottom of fringe.
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