(A) Day dress of heavy black silk crepe. Mid-calf length. Rounded neckline, the upper bodice formed as a wide circular panel that becomes shoulders. "Waistline" of skirt starts across at armpits, and hangs down with 4 gore full bias skirt. Center back opening with three 1" circular self-covered buttons and bound buttonholes. Unlined Combined Designer's / Retailer's label at inside seam of skirt near hem: "Neiman-Marcus dallas / Traina-Norell" (B) Tie belt of self attached to dress. 1-1/2" wide with pointed ends
a) Day dress of gray silk douppoini. Straight silhouette that falls loose in back. Elbow length set-in sleeves. Jewel neckline with placket that runs around neckline and down center front opening with 4 self covered buttons and bound buttonholes supplemented with a snap at the neckline. Street length. Back lined in gray silk. b) Slide belt of white crushed leather with oval buckle covered in self. Belt fits into slits at side seams of dress so that back hangs loose and is belted across front.
Day dress of rose floral print silk shantung with dropped waist and gathered skirt. Cherry printed trim at neckline, sleeves, and dropped waistline. Cherry trim at dropped waist ties in bow. Bateau neckline. Short kimono style sleeves in yolk. Center back buttoned closure with five self fabric covered round buttons. Dropped skirt lined in cream silk. Size 12. Combined retailer and designer label: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina Norell".
Day dress of white linen in sheath-style. Sleeveless with wide, rounded neckline. Closure at back neckline with two "caviar buttons," large domed buttons covered in small round white beads and bound buttonholes. Belt of self fabric is attached to dress and also trimmed with two "caviar buttons" and bound buttonholes. Lined in cream colored silk. Combined retailer and designer label at side seam hem:"Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell".
Day dress of gray/white print silk taffeta. Street- or tea-length, of paper silk taffeta printed with a dense design of varying sizes of small white polka dots on a gray ground. V-neckline, with bow of self just below point. 3/4 length dolman sleeves. Full skirt, cut for crinoline. Center back zipper. Designer's label: "Traina-Norell / New York"
Day dress of red ribbed wool. Squared neckline; 3/4 length sleeves. Set-in waistline with attached 1-1/2" wraparound belt that closes in back with 2 hook & eyes and a snap. Below knee length. Center front opening with 7 hook & eyes on waistband and 7 red, circular, plastic buttons and bound buttonholes below waistband. Lined in red silk; bodice lining is sleeveless with center front zipper closure. Designer's label at right seam of bodice lining: "Automne-Hiver 1953 / Christian Dior / Paris / Made in France" and stamped on designer's label: "36416" Style number label under designer's label, illegible: "--6--4"
Day dress of black silk shantung with white polka dots. Scoop neckline; short sleeves with inverted pleats at padded shoulders. High, pleated waist falls to full, knee length skirt. Attached 3" belt of same closes in back with 4 hook & eyes and is trimmed at front with two large circular black buttons and bound buttonholes. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Lined in black silk shantung with built-in petticoat of white tulle. Designer's label: "Galanos" Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus"
Day dress of blue silk shantung with black flecks and black linen embellishment. A) Dress - Street length, with high rounded neckline, and 3/4 or longer sleeves. Neckline with three concentric bands/borders, each with a button making them look as if they should unbutton. Outer and inner bands of the blue/black shantung, inner band of black linen. Buttons of each band are same fabric as that band. A-lline skirt with "pleated placket" at front. Narrow blue/black thread belt loops at sides. Center back zipper, with hook and thread loop at top of collar. Unlined. Combined designer/retailer label in lower part of skirt: "Irene / Exclusively for / Neiman-Marcus" B) Belt. Narrow leather curving belt faced with the blue/black silk shantung, with large rectangular covered buckle. Stamped on reverse: "10 9524"
Day dress in sheath style of turquoise blue wool knit. Knee-length, with short sleeves and banded collar. Diagonal, 2" welt pockets at side hips. Center back opening of 7 circular turquoise plastic buttons with bound buttonholes, two snaps at neckline, and two hook & eyes on collar. Lined in white synthetic. Designer's label at back neckline: "Modèle / Guy Laroche / Paris / Diffusé Par Maria Carine / Made in France" Handwritten style number label below designer label: "LR E6531 Rapp(?) 8" Retailer's(?) label at right side seam is cut: "i.m. / Made in France"
Day dress of gray and yellow windowpane plaid cotton. Street length with short sleeves. Short collar. Faux placket runs down the center front of the bodice with bow at top and line of 5 non-functional white buttons. Full skirt is pleated and gathers at natural waist. At each side, slightly behind hip, are two slit pockets with side "flaps". Center back zipper closure, and grosgrain ribbon petersham with hook-and-eye closure. Unlined. Designer's label inside at left side seam: "Galanos / Originals / Beverly Hills" Retailer's label inside skirt at front: "Neiman-Marcus".
Day dress of olive green ground with small floral print in browns and creams. Street-length, with no collar and V-neckline. Slight gathers at sides of neckline. Short dolman sleeves with underarm gussets. Bodice is double-breasted, with self-covered buttons and bound buttonholes. A-line skirt, pleats/gathers at waistline. Lined in gold silk faille. Designer's label at left side seam: "Adele Simpson" Retailer's label at left side seam: "Neiman-Marcus" With matching contour belt of brown leather covered with same silk print. Rectangular buckle covered with same fabric. No labels/marks on belt.
Day dress of printed cotton, brown on white, with black "spots" in a very tiny geometric pattern. Just below knee length. Double collar and cuffs with white cotton(?) button-in, detachable panels. Short sleeves, pleated into hems. V-neckline below collar, which has lower placket opening with three circular black buttons and bound buttonholes, and one hook-and-loop at waist, inner petersham with hooks and eyes, and series of 4 hidden snaps at center front of skirt. Natural waist, into which bodice and skirt are pleated. Full skirt. Lined in ivory organza/organdy. Designer's label at inside left seam of skirt: "Mollie Parnis / New York" Union label near designer's label. Size label at inside of skirt opening: "Size 10" With accompanying belt of black patent leather; 2" wide with square buckle.
Daytime dress of printed cotton lawn. Street-length of white cotton lawn is printed with stripes of grays and coral is sleeveless, with wide straps and V-neckline in front and back. The bodice is cut so that stripes are diagonal, meeting at center front and back and emphasizing the V-neckline. The narrow waist is slightly dropped, and is defined by a wide set-in decorative belt of the same fabric, with stripes running horizontally, with fabric-wrapped rectangular buckle and ends. The full skirt has stripes running vertically, and is gathered at the waist/bottom of the belt. There is one underskirt of cream faille, and a second of stiff cream netting. The center-back zipper closure extends from single hook-and-eye at neckline to base of belt. Bodice is partly lined with cream faille and has internal boning. There is a white grosgrain ribbon inner waistband with hook-and-eye closures. Designer's label is sewn inside dress, to bodice lining at left side: "Adele Simpson". This dress was a gift of the designer Adele Simpson and her husband Wesley Simpson to the Dallas Museum of Fashion, which later became the Texas Fashion Collection.
Daytime ensemble consisting of coat and dress with belt. Coat is of red bouclé wool. Long, dolman sleeves. Knee length. Band collar is covered in navy velvet on the exterior. Double welt side pockets on the diagonal. Lined in same douppioni silk print as dress. Designer's label at center back neckline: "E Garnett / Made In Italy / Imported Original" The one-piece day dress is of blue/gray douppioni silk with abstract print of lines in red, black, tan and yellow. Bias cut. Sleeveless with capped shoulders. Knee length. Collarless with V- shaped neckline formed by wrapped draping. Gathered draping to left side zipper closure. Wrap around skirt which drapes to large bow of self at left just below hip. Unlined with 1" blue/gray grosgrain ribbon petersham with 2 hook & eyes. Designer's label at center back neckline: "E Garnett / Made In Italy / Imported Original" The dress has an accompanying contour belt covered in matching fabric; 1" wide. Buckle also covered in same fabric.
Daytime ensemble of brown silk consisting of: A) Dress. Below-knee length, the dress has princess seaming to create fitted bodice, with wide V-neckline, 3/4" shoulder straps and straight skirt. 1" belt of self fabric from front darts to center back. Center back zipper. Unlined. Designer's label: "Christian Dior Original / Made in U.S.A. / Christian Dior - New York Inc." Retailer's label: "Harzfeld's / Kansas City" B) Jacket. Cropped jacket is pleated in front and back to a 3" waistband on which are three brass buttons 1/2" wide, and bound buttonholes. Long sleeves with 1-1/2" cuffs and one matching button per sleeve. Band collar has 10" tie ends and L-shaped lapel. Unlined.
Halter-style dress of black wool. V-neck, very low back, sleeveless, buttons up back. Straight skirt with drapery over hips and in front. Country of Origin Label: " Made in France " located on front neckline at right center. Designers Label at inside left on construction detail: " Made in France / Automne - Hiver 1952 / Christian Dior / Paris "
A) Daytime sheath-style dress of natural silk with bateau neckline. Sleeveless. Fly opening at center back neckline with two large abalone buttons with bound buttonholes reinforced with snaps. Two large patch pockets placed low on hips which wrap around side seams from front to back. Knee length. Fitting darts at bust. Lined in natural colored silk. Combined retailer and designer label: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" B) Matching 4 inch wide belt of self fabric. False closure on front right trimmed with two large abalone buttons. Closure at front left with two matching buttons. Bound buttonholes.
Dress of black wool with black leather trim. The street-length dress has a standup collar trimmed in snaps. Front opening is leather trimmed and has 5 self-covered snaps. Detachable front skirt panel is edged along top with black leather trim and secured with 5 self-covered snaps. Bracelet length sleeves trimmed with snaps at cuff. Back zipper. Fully lined in black satin. Handwritten label on inside back seam: "Pierre Balmain Fall 1955"
Tubular dress of red textured, homespun wool with princess style seams. Tea length. Rounded, jewel neckline. Three-quarter length raglan sleeves with gussets at under arm. Two large patch pockets placed low on hips wrap around side seams. Center front closure with seven red plastic round buttons and bound buttonholes; reinforced at neckline with a snap. Upper portion of dress lined in ivory silk crepe. Retailer label at left inside seam near hem: "Neiman-Marcus"
Red silk taffeta dress with print of white line/dashes. A) Cocktail dress of red silk taffeta print. The print is of short white lines/dashes, scattered over the entire garment. Short sleeves, collar with rounded "points". Dropped waist, with a wide panel of same fabric with vertical stitching between bodice and skirt. "Tiered" skirt, with a flounce of same material gathered at bottom of dropped waist and continuing to about knee-level. Skirt gathered at dropped waist, under the flounce. Center front opening with 5 small circular self-covered buttons. Zipper at left side from under arm to dropped waist. Unlined. Inner ivory grosgrain belt/petersham with single hook and eye at left side. Seam where flounce joins skirt reinforced on interior with horsehair band. Combined designer's/retailer's label sewn in skirt: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" B) Thin belt of cream leather covered in matching fabric. Rectangular buckle covered in same fabric. No marks on belt.
Monastic Dress of red and black floral printed cotton. The dress is street-length, with natural shoulders, long sleeves and a high scoop neckline. At the waist is a black leather belt which passes through the garment at the sides, allowing the sides of the dress to be loose and flowing. The belt has a snap closure, and is designed to look "tied" at front. Also referred to as a Trapeze dress. Dress has two labels sewn inside at back of collar. Designer's label: "Claire McCardell Clothes / by Townley" and Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" Belt has stamped in white on the back: "10 Claire McCardell 608" From the original Carrie Marcus Neiman Foundation collection assembled by Stanley and Edward Marcus.
A) Sheath style dress of navy silk with seam line at natural waist. Slightly gathered at sides of waist and tapering to a narrow skirt. Short kimono sleeve with gusset at underarm. Hem of sleeves are coming undone. Jewel neckline. Button closure at center back with six navy plastic buttons. Unlined. Size 12. B) Three inch wide belt of self fabric with self fabric buckle. Belt sits above waistline. Designer label: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina Norell".
Dress of toast brown colored linen. A) Jacket. Waist-length box jacket, with modified mandarin collar, asymmetrical front opening/closure beginning with a button just below center throat, then curving to left, and then down on left front, with a total of five large circular ivory-colored plastic buttons, and a single hidden snap at upper right. Sleeveless. Single patch pocket at right side. Neckline, opening, and top edge of pocket edged with off-white band. Lined in cream cotton(?). No label in jacket. B) Skirt. Street-length, A-line, with darts to the wide waistband. Left fastening, with three hooks and loops at waistband and zipper below. Unlined. Designer's label: "Traina-Norell / New York"
Dress. The mid-length dress has a pink crepe under-dress/slip which is overlaid with a black net sheath embellished with lavish black bead-work in the forms of rose-heads forming a trellis and fan-shapes in the openings of the trellis. The dress is sleeveless, with a high boat neckline. At natural waist is an attached pink satin belt with bow in front. Center back zipper, with section of hooks-and-eyes at upper part. The dress is accompanied by a long rectangular pink chiffon scarf. There are two labels in the dress, the Retailer's label "Neiman-Marcus" sewn inside at waist to right of zipper, and maker's label sewn inside near top of under-dress on left of zipper "Made in British Crown / Colony Hong Kong". No labels on scarf.
Dress in sheath style of navy blue linen. Neckline is high and straight in front with wide, scooped back with 3/4" shoulder straps. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Lined in navy organdy. Designer's label at center back seam near hem: "Christian Dior - New York, Inc." Retailer's label at center back seam near hem: "Neiman-Marcus" With accompanying stole, double sided with one side of matching navy linen and reverse of green linen. Open ends; 16" wide.
Dress (evening?) of gray and gold brocade in floral pattern with small roses. Below knee length, with short sleeves, and with collarless rounded neckline, split at center front. Center front opening, which has: 3 self-covered circular buttons and bound button holes on bodice; one hook-and-loop tab in pleating; three hook and loop fasteners at dropped waist narrow waistband/belt; 6 functioning self-covered buttons and bound buttonholes on skirt; and with two faux bound button holes at bottom near hem. Full skirt is pleated into waistband. Large bow-form of self at center back of waistband. Lined in sheer cream silk. Designer's label at waist, right back: "Christian Dior - New York Inc."
Dress of light weight black wool crepe in shift style. High round neck; sleeveless. Street length. Center front opening to hem with 8 large round buttons of heavy silk threads. Slight fullness achieved by gathering from shoulder yoke. Unlined except at yoke. Combined designer/retailer label at center back seam near hem: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"
Dress in shirtwaist style of black and white vertical striped velvet with black patent leather belt (missing). Long, set-in sleeves with zippered ends. Large, Puritan collar and cuffs of white, stiffened organdy. Calf length. Center front opening with eight 3/4" circular, black plastic buttons with bound buttonholes and snap at neckline. Bow of self at collar. Unlined. Combined designer/retailer label on left inside seam near hem: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"
A) Daytime dress of oyster white linen designed as a "Sailor Dress". Straight silhouette and short sleeves. Blue "sailor collar" trimmed with two bands of white linen. Sleeves are likewise edged in a wide blue band with two white linen stripes. Red silk faille tie fastened with hook & eye closure in back. Street-length skirt has two patch pockets at front. Three darts at front sides and two at back sides. Zipper closure at left side. Unlined with petersham of oyster grosgrain ribbon with hook-and-eye closure. Designer's label at bottom left side seam at hem: "Traina-Norell / New York" B) Narrow navy blue belt backed in leather. Simulated patent leather (?) facing. Illegible marks on back.
Dress of cream silk faille with printed red and green design of running roses. A) Daytime shirtwaist dress of cream silk faille. Peter Pan collar with ties, short slightly puffed "baby doll" sleeve. Pleated bodice. Center front opening with 6 small circular domed buttons covered in cream fabric. Full A-line skirt, below-knee length, gathered/pleated at waistband. Entire dress with thin vertical printed bands of pink and green running roses. Inner skirt of heavy tulle/net with horizontal bands of horsehair stiffening. Size 12 Combined Retailer's / Designer's label inside inner skirt: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina Norell" B) Belt of cream textured leather covered with matching fabric. Square belt buckle covered in cream fabric. Belt stamped on reverse "28 1/2".
a) Dress of oatmeal colored silk with black polka dots. Six self covered buttons with covered buttonholes supplemented with snaps and hook & eyes at waist form front closure. Short, modified raglan sleeves. Bodice lined in oatmeal colored silk crepe. Gathered at hip line. Skirt supported with netting and lined in cream colored organza. Designer's label at left inside seam: "Galanos" Retailer's label at right inside seam: "Neiman-Marcus" b) Matching belt in same. Belts at natural waist in large gap between buttons. Belt in two pieces; longer piece has self covered buckles at each end and smaller piece has 3 punch holes at each end. Leather backing in natural color. Back stamped: "Galanos"
Dress of blue/gray silk satin or peau de soie, in shirtwaist style. Notched collar. Self covered button at center front with bound buttonhole. Waist seam; 3/4 length skirt with pleats on front and back of skirt. Half-length sleeves with self covered button, turn-back cuffs and bound buttonhole. Armhole princess seams front and back. Tucks on front and back bodice. Center back zipper. Lined in blue organdy with 1/2" blue grosgrain ribbon petersham. With belt of self-fabric forming a bow at center front with hook & eye and snap closure. Designer's label at center back seam below zipper: "Christian Dior - New York, Inc."
Halter-style dress of black wool. Below-knee-length, with wide strap running from front up and behind neck. Straight neckline at front, with very low rounded edge at back - almost to mid-back. Center front with draped effect at waist, appearing "pulled" from hips, and with central front drape. 2 large pleats from waist at back. Center back opening with 5 self-covered buttons and bound buttonholes, supplemented with hook & eye at top and two hook & eyes at waist, and with zipper under edge of pleat at right of center back. Inner bodice of black net has boning and closes at center back with hook & eyes. Skirt lined in black silk. Country of Origin Label: "Made in France" located on front neckline at right center. Designer's Label at inside left on construction detail: "Made in France / Automne - Hiver 1952 / Christian Dior / Paris" and stamped "20951". Has handwritten style number tag beneath designer's label (mostly illegible): "50938" Retailer's label at back seam of skirt: "Neiman-Marcus"
Cocktail or Evening Dress. The mid-length dress has a pink crepe under-dress/slip which is overlaid with a black net sheath embellished with lavish black bead-work in the forms of rose-heads forming a trellis and fan-shapes in the openings of the trellis. The dress is sleeveless, with a high boat neckline. At natural waist is an attached pink satin belt with bow in front. Center back zipper, with section of hooks-and-eyes at upper part. There are two labels in the dress, the Retailer's label "Neiman-Marcus" sewn inside at waist to right of zipper, and maker's label sewn inside near top of under-dress on left of zipper "Made in British Crown / Colony Hong Kong". With accompanying long rectangular pink chiffon scarf. No labels on scarf.
Dress of muted pink silk organza over a layer of beige taffeta with ivory Schiffli lace embroidery in a floral motif; bodice is strapless with horizontal pleating below bust and top portion is trimmed with self-embroidered lace and lattice, and has scalloped, embroidered trim at neckline; boning within; full, wide skirt is gathered into waistline and falls to below knee-length; layers of stiffened tulle support the wide silhouette; bottom of skirt is embellished with self-embroidered lace and lattice with vines of flowers trailing up to the mid-skirt; hem has scalloped, embroidered trim; left side-zip closure.
Daytime dress of red silk faille. Street length. Short sleeves with turned-back edge. Shawl collar with button-down ends at front. Center front opening of 6 circular faceted red plastic buttons. Skirt gathers/pleats at waistline. Side slit pockets. Bodice partly lined in red silk. Red grosgrain ribbon petersham with hook & eye. Designer's label at right side seam: "Christian Dion Original / Made in U.S.A. / Christian Dior - New York Inc. / Trademark" Retailer's label at left side seam of skirt: "Neiman-Marcus". With accompanying belt of red leather covered with matching red silk faille. Elongated oval buckle covered with red silk faille except for tongue, which is enameled red. Designer's stamp on back: "Christian Dior / New York, Inc." and size, partly illegible. 10 or 12.
Dress of white silk with multicolored bird and foliage print. Squared neckline with double collar. Short set-in sleeves with two reverse tucks at cuff. Mid-calf length. Two layers of reversed tucks below natural waist line. Back interest of three tiers of sculptural pleating simulating a flat bustle; folds are attached on right and close on left with three snaps. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Unlined. With matching belt of same fabric, 1-1/2" wide. Rectangular, self-covered buckle.
Kutchi Dress of the Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan. Full-length. Bodice of various fabrics and embellishments. Rounded neckline with slight standing/band collar of primarily yellow bead-work with blue bead squares containing red bead centers. "Collar" below neckline of pendant silver-colored coins. Shoulder areas of purple with primarily yellow stitching forming scroll-work. Front "bib" of dark red outlined with same bead-work as neckline, and sewn with 9 horizontal rows of green tear-drop shaped beads and a line of silver-colored coins. Center part of bodice of black fabric with all-over red reflective circles. Wide "waist" of dress with geometric bead-work band of white, green, red, blue, and orange, with band of small circular mirrors and two lower borders of fringe tipped with white and green beads, and lowest border of coins. Sleeves of dark green velvet with bands of rickrack of silver and gold, and stitching matching the shoulder areas. Edged with bead-work and with row of silver-colored coins. Skirt is full-length, and full, and is of dark blue/black fabric printed with white and grey pattern of small flower blossoms, paisley shapes, dots, leaves, etc. Hem of dress with wide embroidered band, upper section with horizontal band of squares of various colors (reddish, green, orange, pale green, purple), center band of yellow, and lower band of reddish/magenta. Unlined. No labels or tags.
Ensemble in black and oatmeal colored wool, consisting of: A) Jacket: Semi-fitted wool in abstracted herringbone weave with black and oatmeal yarns running double throughout; moderately rounded neckline with asymmetrical mandarin collar; full-length raglan sleeves with overarm seam and undersleeve; double breasted front opening with eight round, plastic, oatmeal colored buttons and four bound buttonholes supplemented by single hook & eye inside lap at waist; vertical welt pockets on front lined in black silk; fully lined in black silk. Designer's label at inside collar: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris" and "Made in France". Retailer's label at inside side seam: "Neiman-Marcus" B) Dress: Knee length dress; bodice of black wool gauze with jewel neckline; sleeveless; lapped centerfront opening with four round self-covered buttons and bound buttonholes supplemented by single snap and hook & eye; bodice gathers into seam at natural waistline; gathered hip yoke of same gauze; straight skirt of matching herringbone has three snaps at centerfront opening; folded hem; gauze is lined in black silk organdy; skirt is unlined.
Ensemble of blue silk crepe with black and white print, consisting of: A) Tunic top of silk crepe. Short, bat wing sleeves with insert of black, rectangular material at shoulder line. Mock V-neck opening backed with same material and ties of self. Center back zipper. Unlined. Designer's label at back zipper: "Adrian / Original" B) Skirt of same fabric. Straight; below knee-length. Black crepe waistband. Zipper closure with slit at hem line. Unlined.
Ensemble. The skirt is of heavy gold felt covered with black floral lace, which has been heavily "beaded" with sequins. Side zipper closure, and two side-seam pockets. Retailer's label inside skirt on side seam: "Neiman-Marcus". With black velvet belt, which is marked on reverse: "16 Charming Belts. 6406", "This / 'Bac-A-Belt' backing / guaranted by / Good Housekeeping" / wash or clean / as garment". The accompanying blouse is of black silk jersey with half length sleeves and gathered detail at scoop neckline. Center back zipper closure that extends full length of the garment. Inner waistband of grosgrain ribbon with hook and eye closure. No labels in blouse.
Ensemble of navy ribbed silk. A) Blouse in New Look style with V-shaped neckline and 1" collar. Elbow length sleeves with 1" folded cuffs. Center front opening with hook & eye closure. Patch pockets at side hips. Unlined; petersham of black grosgrain ribbon with hook & eye. Designer's label at left side seam: "Christian Dior Original / Made In U.S.A. / Christian Dior-New York Inc." B) Skirt of matching silk. Street length, A lined with pleats at 1" waistband. Center back zipper. Unlined.
Ensemble of navy-blue and slightly lighter silk organza composed of vertical hand-faggoted bands of alternating shades of blue giving light and dark effect. A) Blouse. Waist length with extending peplum to tuck under skirt. V-neckline, with collar of flat reveres with faggoted border. Short sleeves with turned-back cuffs. Center front opening with 4 self-covered buttons, a snap at the natural waistline, and 1 hook and loop and 5 hooks and eyes on peplum. The stripes and peplum are lined in pale gray organza, leaving the faggotted seams unlined. Underarm gussetts, with built-in pads. No labels. B) Skirt. Street length, full skirt matching bodice, with alternating vertical stripes, narrow navy blue waistband with center front opening with 5 self-covered buttons, and one hook and eye and two hook and loops on waistband, and a large snap which matches to bodice. Lined as blouse, with cream organza lining the stripes, but the faggotted bands left open, and with an inner skirt attached at waist of same cream silk organza, and with inner petticoat with flounce of cream tulle which has separate closure with 9 hook-and-eyes. No labels. Handwritten note on waistband "RH650 2P(?)" C) Inner shell camisole/lining for blouse of cream silk. Sleeveless, waist length, with V-neckline and center front opening with 7 hook-and-eye closures. Fitted slightly raised waistline. Designer's label at left side seam near hem: "Christian Dior / Paris" "Printemps-Ete 1953"; "Made in France"; 34419(?) Handwritten label underneath designer's label: "58.889"
Street ensemble consisting of a navy blue wool coat and a dress. A) Coat of navy whipcord wool. Single breasted with 6 circular black plastic buttons and bound buttonholes. Long, set-in sleeves. Street length. Peter Pan collar of black sheepskin. High rise waistline. Lined in black silk. Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" B) Dress with black crepe back satin bodice and navy whipcord wool straight cut skirt. Long, narrow cut, set-in sleeves with zippered cuffs. Wide jewel neckline. Street length. Empire waist with slight gathering and 1/2" band at base of bodice. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Petersham at waistline of 3/4" black grosgrain ribbon with hook & eye closure. Unlined.
Ensemble consisting of a charcoal gray wool tweed coat dress and skirt. A) Street dress of charcoal gray wool tweed. Center front opening with eight large, circular, black plastic buttons and bound buttonholes. Three quarter raglan sleeves. Turndown collar. Yoked shoulders slightly gathered in back. Below knee length. Lined in black silk faille. Retailer's label at inside back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus" B) Skirt with waist panel of black silk and lower panel of charcoal gray wool tweed. Skirt is slightly gathered where waist panel meets lower panel. Overall effect is of a straight skirt. Center back opening with two hook & eyes on waistband as closure. Lower portion of skirt is lined in same black silk as waist panel. Retailer's label on inside center back seam of lining: "Neiman-Marcus"
(At Left) Evening ensemble of brown silk shantung. The camisole is sleeveless, with a boat neckline. Center back closure with 10 small circular buttons covered with matching fabric. The blouse is lined in dark brown silk, and has an inner structure of net and metal boning. The understructure extends below the top to give structure to the skirt. The inner net and boning layer has a center back closure of 14 hook-and-eyes, matching along same line as outer closure. The skirt is of matching materials, A-line, below-the-knee length. It has a 2" waistband decorated with horizontal ruching. Center-back zipper closure with two hook-and-eyes in waistband. The skirt has an attached black rayon gorgette underslip, and an attached black nylon petticoat. The petticoat has a horsehair braid incorporated in the hem for stiffening. The matching swing coat is calf length, with a rolled collar and short sleeves. It is constructed with several layers of organza for structure and a tuck panel around the coat for decoration and flounce. Lined in brown silk. There are no labels in the garment. Photograph is from the exhibition "Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers", held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows suit as displayed. From the original collection of the Dallas Museum of Fashion, which later became the Texas Fashion Collection.
Ensemble. A) Brown sheath dress of lace with floral motif, heavily hand beaded with tiny brown beads. Mid-length, scooped neckline, deeper in back. Sleeveless, with narrow straps. Slightly shaped hem. Inner brown satin lining sheath. Design house's label inside: "Mingolini Gugenheim / Piazza di Spagna 9-91- Roma" B) Brown sheer organza coat, mid-length, shawl collar, center front opening fastened by belt. mid-length sleeves. Leather belt built into waistline, covered with organza, the hook buckles covered in brown beading as dress.
Ensemble consisting of green leather jacket and green and black striped knit dress with green leather belt. The sheath-style street-length dress is of wool jersey with a knitted pattern of horizontal green and black stripes. It has very short sleeves and a wide boat neckline, and is unlined. The dress has an accompanying green leather belt that ends in fringe. The street-length coat is of matching green leather, with long sleeves and tuxedo collar that extends to lower hem. The center-front opening has no closures, and there is a welt pocket at each side seam. The coat is lined in the same fabric the dress is made from, and faces the tuxedo collar and opening. There are no designer labels in the garments, and the coat has retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Trophy Room".
Ensemble of printed silk. This cocktail or dinner ensemble in the "New Look" consists of a dress and bolero-style jacket of printed floral ikat silk with a black ground and floral design in gray, browns and dark brown/mauve shades. A) The dress is mid-calf-length, sleeveless, and with a boat neckline. Tailored to fit, with side bust and waist darts. Self fabric bow at top of waist gore which releases into a box pleat at the skirt. Slightly dropped waist. Under the sides of front box pleat edges are two knife pleats to create fullness, with darts for slimmer waist. On either side of front bock pleat is a small 1"intake pleat to balance fullness of skirt. Side seams have a lapping box pleat and an small triangular insert from front side seams. Back waist has 4 sets of box pleats, two on either side of center back zipper closure. The dress has built-in under-structure consisting of inner half-slip of off-white satin, and three layers of stiffened netting petticoats, all with horsehair braid at hem. B) The matching jacket is of the same cloth, cropped short in the bolero style. The center-front opening has no closures and is collarless. Raglan style sleeves are tea elbow length. Under sleeve and sleeve cuff is slightly ruched creating a faux cuff look. It is fully lined in a brown silk organza. 4-way underarm gusset. Sewn into the hem are French weights. There is no label in the dress. The jacket has a single designer's label: "Printemps-Ete 1956 / Christian Dior / Paris" which has stamped on it "80615". The "1956" appears embossed, not printed, and the black backing of the label is cut away behind the "1956".
Ensemble of a dark grey wool mohair consisting of: A) Jacket in boxed style. Single breasted with three large, circular, horn buttons and bound buttonholes; notched collar. Bracelet length, set-in sleeves. Lined in dark gray silk. Designer's label at inside center back neckline: "Made in France / Boutique / Christian Dior / Paris " and stamped on label: "10118" B) Dress. Sleeveless, with shallow, wide rounded neckline. Natural waist with an A-line over skirt and with under skirt of dark gray silk and 7" hemline of matching wool creating a tiered or multi-layer look. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Skirt lined in dark gray silk and bodice lined in black organza with black grosgrain ribbon petersham and black silk noil support structure.
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