Calotte of black straw and black velvet. The calotte (also spelled "calot") has a low, domed black velvet crown overlaid with a "pinwheel" made of large woven black straw triangles. At top of crown is a maroon velvet cord knot. Hat is lined in dark blue, with a dark blue/black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label: "Sally V / Designed by Sally Victor" Retailer's label: "Titche-Goettinger Co / Dallas"
Calotte. The hat has a conical crown of stiffened green net overlaid with green straw woven/plaited loops and with attached artificial cherries and leaves. The calotte (also spelled "calot") has a thin green velvet trim along base of crown. Label sewn into inner edge of crown: "Styled by / Coralie", with "Finlan" written on edge of label. Behind the Coralie label is a Union label.
Hat of off-white straw embroidery. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot") with shaped close crown of off-white straw embroidered with several rosettes of straw, connected by a field of straw. The shaped outer edge is wound with the same straw. The hat is unlined, allowing the underlying mesh to be seen. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" and origin label "Made In Italy".
Calotte style hat of pale olive green felt with multicolored pheasant feathers on the left front. Double rolls of same felt form edge of hat which cross at front where meets feather trim. Net veil on front. Two hatpins with heads of matching felt. Unlined with inner headband of light gray/green grosgrain ribbon. Maker's label on inside inner headband: "Frances / Dallas, Texas" Paper tag attached to inner headband at back of hat.
Calotte style hat of brown straw cloth with brown veil. Left brim of hat circles to form a loop that folds under the right side of the hat. Designer's label with two set in rhinestones on inside of crown: "John Fredericks / New York" Vertical portion of designer's label: "Made in America"
Calotte style hat of black velvet with two temple clips. Wire cored passementerie edge. Black lace and thread balls as trim. Lined in multicolored striped fabric with pink grosgrain and gold ric-rac on inside headband. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus"
Capulet style hat of red silk faille with 3 folds of self on either side. Red, slightly stiffened nose veil. Designers label: "MR. JOHN" Measurements: (Veil not included in measurements) L: 13 cm W: 49 cm H: 11 cm
Dress of blue organza with white stripes. Rectangular sailor style collar with point at center front extends over sleeveless dress. Full, gathered skirt attaches at waistline to fitted bodice. Two small front patch pockets. Center back opening of three mother-of-pearl buttons. Belt loops at sides; belt missing. Unlined. Maker's label at back neckline: "Size 3 5858 / Honeysuckle / Deluxe Fashions / An Exclusive Design / Sears, Roebuck and Co."
Cloche hat of fine light brown/tan straw. The domed crown of straw has a looped segment of woven straw "ribbon" attached at side, with trailing ends. The irregular brim, woven in one piece with crown, has an asymmetrical crease at side. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of off-white grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "John Frederics 'Charmer'".
Coat of skunk fur. Hip length, of solid black fur in vertical stripes, with center front opening having three hook-and-eye closures. Elbow-length sleeves. Two slit pockets at hips. Lined in black silk crepe. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Annis Furs / Detroit"
Cocktail dress of yellow and orange silk chiffon. Fitted bodice of horizontal, loosely pleated yellow chiffon has two orange, horizontal stripes at waist and above. Double, spaghetti style shoulder straps. Inner support with boning and petersham. Skirt is composed of under layers coral pink and yellow silk and outer layers of orange and yellow chiffon, creating a full appearance. Mid-length; zip-back and hook & eye closure. Retailer's label at left side seam: "Neiman-Marcus"
Cocktail dress of dark navy blue silk satin. Strapless with fitted bodice. Open pleats over bust with mock bow and attached 14'' wide stole lined with silk organza which drapes over right shoulder and down back. Straight skirt with small inverted pleats at each hip bone, 23 1/2'' long from waist. Center back 24'' zipper closing with hook and eye at top and waist line. French netting, boned bustier with black grosgrain ribbon and hook & eye closure on inside. Skirt is lined to hip front and back with navy taffeta. Designer's label at center front bottom of bustier: "Christian Dior Original / Made In U.S.A. / Christian Dior - New York, Inc. / Trademark" Retailer's label to left of designer's label: "Neiman-Marcus"
Hat of beaded, printed silk. The cocktail hat is of silk printed in an abstract foliage design in greens, reds, purples, yellows, white, and brown. It is heavily beaded, with small pale green square beads, oblong dark green beads, oblong and circular white beads, and tan flat sequins. All beads appear to be wooden. The crown is formed as an irregular dome, and has no brim. The hat is lined in gold cloth, and has two small plastic combs attached to either side of the inside of the crown to help secure the hat to the wearer's head. Designer's label sewn inside crown: "Irene of New York". Retailer's label sewn inside crown: "Neiman-Marcus / Salon"
Day dress in beige pesanté silk. Bias band collar extending into tubular tie with open hemmed ends. Tie graduates for 1/2 inch at center back collar to 4-1/4 inch at ends. Three 1 inch self-covered round buttons at bodice front. Piped button holes and 13 inch hidden zipper below. Bracelet length dolman sleeves. Back yoke. Street length. Two 8-1/2 inch x 8 inch hip patch pockets. Unlined. Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"
Day dress of olive green ground with small floral print in browns and creams. Street-length, with no collar and V-neckline. Slight gathers at sides of neckline. Short dolman sleeves with underarm gussets. Bodice is double-breasted, with self-covered buttons and bound buttonholes. A-line skirt, pleats/gathers at waistline. Lined in gold silk faille. Designer's label at left side seam: "Adele Simpson" Retailer's label at left side seam: "Neiman-Marcus" With matching contour belt of brown leather covered with same silk print. Rectangular buckle covered with same fabric. No labels/marks on belt.
Daytime ensemble of brown silk consisting of: A) Dress. Below-knee length, the dress has princess seaming to create fitted bodice, with wide V-neckline, 3/4" shoulder straps and straight skirt. 1" belt of self fabric from front darts to center back. Center back zipper. Unlined. Designer's label: "Christian Dior Original / Made in U.S.A. / Christian Dior - New York Inc." Retailer's label: "Harzfeld's / Kansas City" B) Jacket. Cropped jacket is pleated in front and back to a 3" waistband on which are three brass buttons 1/2" wide, and bound buttonholes. Long sleeves with 1-1/2" cuffs and one matching button per sleeve. Band collar has 10" tie ends and L-shaped lapel. Unlined.
Dress. The mid-length dress has a pink crepe under-dress/slip which is overlaid with a black net sheath embellished with lavish black bead-work in the forms of rose-heads forming a trellis and fan-shapes in the openings of the trellis. The dress is sleeveless, with a high boat neckline. At natural waist is an attached pink satin belt with bow in front. Center back zipper, with section of hooks-and-eyes at upper part. The dress is accompanied by a long rectangular pink chiffon scarf. There are two labels in the dress, the Retailer's label "Neiman-Marcus" sewn inside at waist to right of zipper, and maker's label sewn inside near top of under-dress on left of zipper "Made in British Crown / Colony Hong Kong". No labels on scarf.
Dress of blue/gray silk satin or peau de soie, in shirtwaist style. Notched collar. Self covered button at center front with bound buttonhole. Waist seam; 3/4 length skirt with pleats on front and back of skirt. Half-length sleeves with self covered button, turn-back cuffs and bound buttonhole. Armhole princess seams front and back. Tucks on front and back bodice. Center back zipper. Lined in blue organdy with 1/2" blue grosgrain ribbon petersham. With belt of self-fabric forming a bow at center front with hook & eye and snap closure. Designer's label at center back seam below zipper: "Christian Dior - New York, Inc."
Cocktail or Evening Dress. The mid-length dress has a pink crepe under-dress/slip which is overlaid with a black net sheath embellished with lavish black bead-work in the forms of rose-heads forming a trellis and fan-shapes in the openings of the trellis. The dress is sleeveless, with a high boat neckline. At natural waist is an attached pink satin belt with bow in front. Center back zipper, with section of hooks-and-eyes at upper part. There are two labels in the dress, the Retailer's label "Neiman-Marcus" sewn inside at waist to right of zipper, and maker's label sewn inside near top of under-dress on left of zipper "Made in British Crown / Colony Hong Kong". With accompanying long rectangular pink chiffon scarf. No labels on scarf.
Dress of white silk with multicolored bird and foliage print. Squared neckline with double collar. Short set-in sleeves with two reverse tucks at cuff. Mid-calf length. Two layers of reversed tucks below natural waist line. Back interest of three tiers of sculptural pleating simulating a flat bustle; folds are attached on right and close on left with three snaps. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Unlined. With matching belt of same fabric, 1-1/2" wide. Rectangular, self-covered buckle.
Kutchi Dress of the Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan. Full-length. Bodice of various fabrics and embellishments. Rounded neckline with slight standing/band collar of primarily yellow bead-work with blue bead squares containing red bead centers. "Collar" below neckline of pendant silver-colored coins. Shoulder areas of purple with primarily yellow stitching forming scroll-work. Front "bib" of dark red outlined with same bead-work as neckline, and sewn with 9 horizontal rows of green tear-drop shaped beads and a line of silver-colored coins. Center part of bodice of black fabric with all-over red reflective circles. Wide "waist" of dress with geometric bead-work band of white, green, red, blue, and orange, with band of small circular mirrors and two lower borders of fringe tipped with white and green beads, and lowest border of coins. Sleeves of dark green velvet with bands of rickrack of silver and gold, and stitching matching the shoulder areas. Edged with bead-work and with row of silver-colored coins. Skirt is full-length, and full, and is of dark blue/black fabric printed with white and grey pattern of small flower blossoms, paisley shapes, dots, leaves, etc. Hem of dress with wide embroidered band, upper section with horizontal band of squares of various colors (reddish, green, orange, pale green, purple), center band of yellow, and lower band of reddish/magenta. Unlined. No labels or tags.
Ensemble in black and oatmeal colored wool, consisting of: A) Jacket: Semi-fitted wool in abstracted herringbone weave with black and oatmeal yarns running double throughout; moderately rounded neckline with asymmetrical mandarin collar; full-length raglan sleeves with overarm seam and undersleeve; double breasted front opening with eight round, plastic, oatmeal colored buttons and four bound buttonholes supplemented by single hook & eye inside lap at waist; vertical welt pockets on front lined in black silk; fully lined in black silk. Designer's label at inside collar: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris" and "Made in France". Retailer's label at inside side seam: "Neiman-Marcus" B) Dress: Knee length dress; bodice of black wool gauze with jewel neckline; sleeveless; lapped centerfront opening with four round self-covered buttons and bound buttonholes supplemented by single snap and hook & eye; bodice gathers into seam at natural waistline; gathered hip yoke of same gauze; straight skirt of matching herringbone has three snaps at centerfront opening; folded hem; gauze is lined in black silk organdy; skirt is unlined.
Ensemble of blue silk crepe with black and white print, consisting of: A) Tunic top of silk crepe. Short, bat wing sleeves with insert of black, rectangular material at shoulder line. Mock V-neck opening backed with same material and ties of self. Center back zipper. Unlined. Designer's label at back zipper: "Adrian / Original" B) Skirt of same fabric. Straight; below knee-length. Black crepe waistband. Zipper closure with slit at hem line. Unlined.
Ensemble consisting of a nightgown and robe of cream or pale peach nylon. Full-length robe with short sleeves and limp ruff collar. Opens down center front with hook-and-eye closure at waist and attached belt. Matching full-length nightgown is sleeveless, with wide straps. Nightgown opens at side with hook-and-eye closures and has string belt. Both pieces of the ensemble are fully accordion pleated on all parts. Robe has tag "Vanity Fair Nylon"
Evening dress of pale champagne silk chiffon crepe; fitted bodice of silk chiffon with silk satin ribbon trim, and vertical stripes which go down to hem of skirt. Silk satin ribbon forms a V from center-front bodice and wraps over shoulders to back of dress. Ribbon bow at center back falls to middle of skirt and hides a zipper and hook&eye closure. Bodice has interior support with boning and petersham. Mid-length skirt has many layers of chiffon creating a full appearance; skirt is lined in matching silk. Designer's label at left side seam: "Galanos" Retailer's label on lining at bottom of back skirt seam: "Neiman-Marcus"
Evening gown of heavily beaded beige silk satin. The bodice of the full-length gown has an empire waist, a wide scoop neckline, and is sleeveless. It has princess seaming, and internal boning at center front of the neckline. The skirt has fullness from the widening of the panels. The skirt and lower part of the bodice are beaded with floral/foliate forms in pinks, browns, yellows, clear and iridescent beads. The upper part of the bodice, in a deep band around neckline, back, and straps, is totally covered in iridescent sequins, beaded flower heads in bronze/brown and clear beads. The bodice is lined and has internal structures to help support and give form to the gown. The skirt is lined with stiff netting, and has an internal attached net crinoline. The gown has a center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at top. There are no labels in the garment.
Evening gown of tobacco brown floral embroidered tulle embellished with sequins. Tulip or "mermaid" style full-length gown has spaghetti straps trimmed in single row of sequins and structured bodice. Empire waist. Center back zipper. Silk lining/attached slip. Cream grosgrain ribbon petersham at empire waist with two hook & eye closures. Stiffened at hem with matching tulle netting and horizontal bands of horsehair. Single label in gown with retailer and designer: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell", with "Dallas" in lower case.
Evening gown of black satin. Full length; skirt flares slightly. Fitted bodice with low neckline and 1" shoulder straps. Off-center front closure with six satin covered buttons reinforced with two snaps at the neckline and a hook & eye at the center of the opening; bound buttonholes. . Petersham of black, 1" grosgrain ribbon; unlined. Combined designer/manufacturer/retailer label at center back neckline: "Designed in America by / Jacques Fath / for Joseph Halpert / Neiman-Marcus"
Evening gown and stole of silk satin; 2 sided fabric. Gown of deep red silk satin; sleeveless; sheath; large bow draped over right shoulder; fitted skirt; flounce from side seam creates half-circle; 2 self covered button accents; inner hem has horsehair braid and netting for structure; With stole of silk satin; deep red and dark blue; floor length; connected to make slight armholes.
Pair of slip-on evening pumps. Grey/green leather sole with clear vinyl upper, the upper trimmed at vamp with a 4-row band of rhinestones. Spike- or stiletto-style heels formed of clear Lucite embossed with vertical bands of foliate forms and with metal heel-cap. Blind-stamped into sole at ball of feet: "80 M 6641 / 3218-V678". Right shoe stamped: "Joléne / Hollywood Inspired / Made in U.S.A." The Joléne Hollywood Inspired brand/label was manufactured by the Tober-Saifer Shoe Manufacturing Company of St. Louis.
Pair of red satin evening shoes. The deep red shoes have pointed toes and 3 1/2" stiletto heels which are lacquered red with tiny white dots and embellished all-over with rhinestones. Marked on sole: "6 / 1/2 / B / 05" and "Made in Italy". Label inside right shoe: "Vaccari / Italy Bologna". Stamped inside left shoe: "Made in Italy for / Neiman Marcus"
Folding fan. Plain shaped wooden sticks and guards. Leaf of cream paper with thin border of brown. On the leaf are three printed vignettes: 1) view of a street through an archway, titled "Calle de Cuchilleros"; 2) View of the exterior of a church/mission, titled "San Antonio de la Florida"; 3) Scene of a bear shaking a tree, entitled "Madrid". Maker's stamp on back of leaf at guard: "Casa de Diego" Created between 1950 and 1986.
Original sketch for a fashion design by Lilli Wolff. Female figure with dress in shades of blue, with swatches attached to mount, and penciled notations. Believed to have been done in the United States after 1950.
Original fashion design by Lilli Wolff. Possibly for a festival gown, design for a female figure with yellow full skirted dress. Various penciled notes and two penciled variations for the skirt design. Believed to have been done between 1945 and 1960, most likely in Dallas, Texas.
Original fashion design by Lilli Wolff. Possibly for a festival gown, design for a female figure with tiered full skirted dress. Believed to have been done between 1945 and 1960, most likely in Dallas, Texas.
Hat made from white straw. The high, cylindrical, slightly domed crown flares out slightly at bottom into an asymmetrical brim. The hat is composed of bands of 10 strands of straw that are twined and platted and woven into shape. Decorating the hat are applied small 4-petaled silk flowers placed all over. At side is a thin bow of white grosgrain ribbon. Unlined, but with an inner white grosgrain ribbon hatband. Sewn into the inner ribbon band is retailer's label, "Saks Fifth Avenue / Millinery Salon". Sewn to the back of the retailer's label is a Union Label, #DB 995583
Hat of royal blue velveteen felt. Somewhat in the cloche style, the hat consists of a cylindrical crown tapering slightly to the flat top. The sides of the hat are covered in a wide band of same fabric which wraps around hat and secures in a giant square buckle covered in same fabric. Hat is unlined, with black grosgrain inner hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hazel Eller - Custom Made" Stamped inside crown: "Borsalino / Antica Casa"
Hat of straw and velvet. The short, cylindrical crown is of woven natural-colored straw, with off-center "peak". The crown is edged along top with a narrow band of orange velvet. The sides of the crown are covered in black velvet, and there is an inner band of black velvet-covered straw that extends below the sides of the crown. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. On the band, a small sewn start designates the front of the hat. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Custom Made", and with a (later?) price tag attached. Accompanied by a short hatpin, the head covered with woven straw matching the hat.
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