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Ensemble - Kutchi Group, Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan

Description: Ensemble - Kutchi Dress, Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan. This assembled ensemble consists of: 1. Dress. Full-length. High neckline, slight V-shape. Front yoke/bib panel of fine needlework geometric shapes and patterns, in orange, purple, green, and blue. Front of bodice with four large embroidered rosettes of silver couching with orange silver/white, and black borders. Over-length, wide sleeves of patchwork of materials, including red, purple, and pink. Cuffs of heavy silver couching with central band of small circular mirrors in needlework frames. High, narrow waistband of silver/gold couching. Front of skirt formed of thin black fabric heavily gathered to form voluminous front panel. Wide band of red fabric lining inside of front panel at hem. Back of bodice formed of red cloth with vertical white stripes. Embroidered panels under arms. Back of skirt formed of upper panel of purple printed with blue and off-white flowers and leaves, heavily gathered into waistband. Lower panel of purple fabric, as full as upper panel. Black hem on back of skirt. 2. Headpiece of silver set with glass and plastic(?) rubies and emeralds, center plaque with glass segments simulating lapis and jade(?). Central circular plaque with central red circular glass "stone" surrounded by 6 alternating triangular green and blue glass plaques forming a star. Star is encircled by ring of glass (plastic?) simulated rubies and emeralds. Outer openwork border. Extending above central plaque and connected by 4 small metal bar-shaped links is a triangular plaque set with same simulated rubies and emeralds. Extending horizontally from central plaque on either side are three rectangular metal plaques set with same simulated rubies and emeralds. All plaques connected by metal bar-shaped links. Hanging below connected plaques is fringe of short metal chain sections terminating in hollow spheres. The plaques are sewn to a narrow black cloth band designed to fit ...
Date: 1940/1960

Evening Dress

Description: Evening dress of rose/pale pink/pale mauve crepe-back satin charmeuse. Inspired by Chinese Cheongsam-style garments, the dress is full-length, slim fitted, with slight standing collar fastened with hidden hook & loop. Sleeveless, the dress has front opening from throat to slightly below right shoulder, secured with three large rhinestone set circular brass(?) buttons. Very slightly raised waist with triangular "flap", open and hanging down from center front to right hip. From just below hip to center front at hem is secondary opening, with 7 buttons matching bodice. Hem slightly scalloped at front overlap corners, and at right side. Left side underarm zipper. Combined designer's/retailer's label inside bodice: "Neiman-Marcus dallas / Maurice Rentner" With tie belt of same fabric, 3/4" wide.
Date: 1940
Creator: Rentner, Maurice

Evening Dress

Description: Evening dress of black heavy crepe with rows of looped accents at neckline, left sleeve, left hip and on draped band below left hip. Two hanging tabs from right waistline. Sheath silhouette. Pointed collar with open slit. Long sleeves with small zippers at cuffs. Full length with vent at center front. Center back zipper closure. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original"
Date: 1940
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert

Halo Hat

Description: Pamela or halo style hat of natural colored straw cloth. Crown ringed with brown silk organza roses. Edge of brim covered with natural colored grosgrain. One hatpin with black, teardrop shaped head. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Unlined. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Henrys / Dallas"
Date: [1940..1945]

Hat

Description: Hat of natural straw. Low domed crown and very wide brim. Tight weave with decorative open weave about 1.5 inches from brim. Around crown is a heavy gold braided ribbon set with spaced rhinestones and large rhinestone where ribbon diverts from crown. Ends of ribbon extend in back to hang off of brim. Off-white grosgrain ribbon inner hatband inside crown. Label sewn to inner ribbon band: "Edna Mye / Dallas". Marked inside crown of hat: "by Hawes"
Date: 1940~
Creator: Mye, Edna

Hat

Description: Toque of multicolor striped velvet in shades of dark blue, red, green and yellow. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Estelle Peters / 50 E. 56th St. N.Y."
Date: 1940/1949
Creator: Peters, Estelle

Hat

Description: Hat in modified sailor style of navy blue straw. Medium height crown is domed at top and has straight front edge and rounded back edge. Around the crown is a wide band of black grosgrain ribbon with flat bow at back. Brim is circular, set off-center so more brim is at front of hat than back. Hat is unlined, with black grosgrain band around inside of crown. Affixed at inside back of hat is small puff of black netting. Affixed to inner band is elastic loop to secure to wearer's head. Designer's label at inside lower edge of crown: "Germaine Montabert"
Date: 1940/1949
Creator: Montabert, Germaine

Hat

Description: Cocktail hat of pink horsehair. The hat is formed of a flat circular tan straw crown completely covered with woven pink horsehair faille formed as layers of ruffles. The whole is mounted at an angle to a circular ring covered in pink satin. No labels on hat.
Date: 1940

Hat

Description: Hat of brown felt with beaver trim. Front resembles toque style and is covered in fur. Crown is a scull cap of brown felt with extension in back and fan-shaped, piped stitching. Free form bow of felt covered wire at front. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas"
Date: 1940/1949

Hat

Description: Hat of black felt. The low, domed crown of black felt is ornamented with a double-spray of black feathers at front. The brim, also of black felt, is turned up at front and turned down at back. The underside of the brim, which shows at front, is lined in black lace embellished with tiny black sequins and beads (jet?). The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Attached to inner hatband is a small black plastic comb to secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Grace Nugent / Los Angeles, Calif." Supplier's logo mark of Merrimac De Luxe Fur Felt stamped to inside of crown.
Date: 1940/1944
Creator: Nugent, Grace

Hat

Description: Hat of fine black balibuntal straw lined with black velvet. Medium high crown with black velvet band typing in large soft bow. Brim uneven, very narrow in back, widening at sides and fullest at left front. Headband of black velvet with large bow of same side back. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus"
Date: 1940
Creator: Victor, Sally

Hat

Description: Peaked Dutch-type bonnet of rough black straw with two bands of embroidered organdy and lace across forehead. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Unlined. Designer's label: "été 1940 / Schiaperelli / 21, Place Vendôme Paris" Label under designer's label: "Made in France"
Date: 1940
Creator: Schiaperelli, Elsa

Hat

Description: Afternoon hat of crushed and draped velvet. Brim of dark purple, crown of wine. Purple brim extends to point at side. Self cording trim. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Lined in wine colored silk. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Marguerite & Leonie / 4 . Rue des Carucines" Label attached below designer's label: "Made in France"
Date: 1940
Creator: Marguerite & Leonie

Hat

Description: Hat of midnight blue silk jersey, with flat turban effect in front and draping at sides and back. Brimless with draped loop at the back. Loop is multicolored with bands of light blue, fuchsia and chartreuse sewn together giving striped effect. Elastic strap to secure hat to wearer's head.
Date: 1940/1942

Hat

Description: Hat of dark brown suede with brown mink trim on heart shaped, upturned brim. Two pins with square shaped suede covered ends. Comb on inside, front hatband for securing hat to wearer's head. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas"
Date: 1940

Hat

Description: Hat of black, white, red, and ocher silk styled as a Garrison Cap (aka Side Cap, or Wedge Cap). Influenced by military headgear, this hat is constructed as a flat envelope, which opens along long edge to form a wedge-shaped crown. The cap is dyed in the Shibori technique, forming intricate designs outlined in white and filled in with red or ocher dots. Lined in black silk. Designer's label inside: "3410 Oak Lawn / Bernie A. Cahn / Dallas, Tex."
Date: 1940/1945
Creator: Cahn, Bernie A.

Hat

Description: Hat of cream and gray striped fabric. Low, cylindrical crown, flattened at top. At back of crown is band of vertically pleated band of same fabric, which extends to edge of brim. Narrow asymmetrical brim, wider in front. At back of brim is cream bow of thick velvet "string" with trailing ends. Underside of brim lined in cream velvet which extends up to edge the brim. Inner cream grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Lydia / New York" Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Walker-Marr / Dallas"
Date: 1940
Creator: Lydia

Hat

Description: Hat of black felt. Styled somewhat as a fez, the hat has a slightly conical crown with flattened top. At back are two segments of black silk braid/knotwork. Inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label: "Original / Helen Smith / Marshall Field Annex - Chicago"
Date: 1940~
Creator: Smith, Helen

Hat

Description: Hat of fine mauve straw and artificial flowers. Designed as a "boater", the low cylindrical crown is of woven fine mauve straw with a slightly sunken, inset flat top. Around the base of the crown is a wreath of artificial flowers, including red roses, and small blossoms in pale green and mauve, which is tied at back with a thin green velvet ribbon bow with trailing ends. From below the wreath extends a net mesh veil, which covers the narrow, flat brim, and hangs down. The hat is unlined, with an inner dark green grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label: "Nat Frank / New York" Size label: "22"
Date: 1940~
Creator: Frank, Nat

Hat

Description: Beret style hat of navy and white woven straw. Ribbon flower hangs off side of hat with small flag of orange grosgrain ribbon on top of stem. Inner headband of black grosgrain ribbon with extension at back of white grosgrain ribbon. Unlined. Designer's label at inside headband: "Gladys & Belle / 20 West 57th St. - New York" Retailer's label at inside headband: "Walker-Marr / Dallas"
Date: 1940
Creator: Gladys & Belle

Hat

Description: Hat of tan fur felt. The highly structured hat of fur felt has a somewhat conical crown, the top with a low dome. Around the top edge of the crown is a wide band of same felt, slanting down, enhanced with vertical stitching. Below this slanting band, around the main body of the crown, is a wide band of brown satin-finished ribbon, decorated with 8 horizontal rows of top stitching, secured at back under a vertical band of the felt. The narrow brim, ca. 1" wide, angles downwards, sharply at back and sides, gently at front, and rolls under. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of tan grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label: "Schiaparelli / Paris"
Date: 1940~
Creator: Schiaparelli, Elsa

Hat

Description: Hat of light brown felt and black voile. The domed crown is of light brown felt, curving slightly and extending outwards at front. Mounted at front is a large leaf-shape of fine black voile with black thread veining and wired edge. The leaf from is sculptural, with the wired edge curved and bent. At side of leaf is a spray of yellow feathers and black ribbon. Hat is unlined, with inner light brown grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label (stating reproduction: "Reproduction Autorisee de / Janette Colombier / 4 Avenue Matignon / Paris" Maker's label: "Fifth Avenue / G Howard Hodge / New York" Maker's label for felt body: "Gaby / Made / In / Czechoslovakia"
Date: 1940/1949
Creator: Colombier, Janette

Hat

Description: Hat of natural straw and yellow/orange netting. The high domed crown is encircled by layers of pleated orange/yellow netting, secured with a single wide vertical band. The whole is overlaid with a wide mesh net of same orange yellow. Round base of crown is a narrow band of matching velvet, with bow and trailing ribbon. Very narrow brim, angled downwards, of same woven straw. Hat is unlined, with inner hatband of yellow/orange grosgrain ribbon. Union label Size label
Date: 1940~