Necklace for festival outfit of the Boysun Tribe, Surxondaryo (Surkhandarya) Province, southern Uzbekistan. D) Bead Necklace. "choker" style bead necklace composed of sections of orange and black horizontal strands interspersed with diamond-shaped motifs of white, orange, green, yellow, and reddish brown. Below the main section is a "fringe, consisting of white beads forming a narrow net, then bands of red and orange, then fringe of blue, yellow, black, white, red, green, and ending in shells, glass beads, etc. Large circular button clasp. No labels.
Necklace of openwork beading. Large central section is U-shaped with diamond shaped sections of black and white beading with diamond shaped centers of red and orange with blue centers at the sides, and large triangular center of black and white beading with a red and yellow center design. Fringed loops of black, red, yellow and white hang from the base of the triangular center. Tie closure of braided tan cotton threads.
Necklace for festival outfit of the Boysun Tribe, Surxondaryo (Surkhandarya) Province, southern Uzbekistan. F) Bead Necklace. Necklace of openwork beading. Wide straps with diamond shapes of yellow/orange with inner sections of blues and yellows against grounds of green, red, blue, and orange. Large central section formed as a white beaded diamond shape containing concentric diamonds of green and red. Blue beaded fringe at bottom ending in red and white "flowerheads" No marks.
Necklace for festival outfit of the Boysun Tribe, Surxondaryo (Surkhandarya) Province, southern Uzbekistan. E) Bead Necklace. "Bib" style, with wide main portion of latticed clear beads overlaid with a field of shell/mother of pearl buttons. Vertical strands of beads along top, attaching to choker band with button clasp. The bib has a lower band of white, black, etc. openwork beading, then strands of beaded fringe in clear, green, yellow, blue, black, red, etc. No labels.
Boots. Red cotton(?) uppers embroidered with circular/sun designs and scrolls in green, yellow, red, blue, pink, white. Scattered silver "sequins" which are small strips of silver folded through fabric. Red leather soles. Edged in black. Lined in dark red leather.
A) Dress of deep blue and orange silk with multi-colored embroidered flowers and squares. Full-length deep blue silk dress with rounded neckline which is edged in gold and with band of square embroidered blocks of color, red, green, blue, white, extending down front in "keyhole". Square "bib" on front and back of orange silk, with border of embroidered flowers of red, blue, and white, and leaves of yellow, with gold embroidered vines and outlining. 3/4 or longer sleeves, with orange panels on upper arms to elbows, with embroidery matching bib. Cuffs with embroidered squares matching neckline. Dress has added gores at sides of orange silk which create a slight A-line. Lower part of dress embroidered with: tall vertical obelisk forms in gold with squares of red, blue, white, green, and "foliate forms" embroidery; Tall bands of large embroidered flower heads and leaves matching bib, but enlarged; Flowers and vines in red, white, yellow, green, blue, etc. Back of dress with same decoration as front, bib is shorter. Vertical closure at neckline, with single hook-and-loop at neckline. Unlined. Sewn-in shoulder pads covered with matching orange silk. b ) Headpiece c ) Necklace - bronze alloy with carnelian stones - Tubular with pendants d ) Necklace - bronze alloy with carnelian stones - Rectangular plaque with pendants
Uzbekistan festival ensemble. a) Caftan/Dress of silk ikat. Full-length, very slight A-line, long sleeves. Shaped neckline. Body of caftan/dress of silk ikat in pattern of rectangular blocks of purple, white, yellow, and reddish-black with central ikat patterns of green, black, yellow, and pinkish, with white "eyes". Neckline is edged with band of rhinestones following the scrolling shapes, and continuing down to and across bust. Within band are small areas of "cutouts" backed with fine white mesh. Cuffs with scalloped edges and decorative stitching following edges. Unlined. No labels in garment. b) Coat of complimentary ikat. Full-length, sleeveless, center-front opening with no closure. Edges of neckline, center-front opening, hem, and deep side-slits are all edged with heavy yellow embroidered applique of scrolling bands with "strawberry-leaf" shapes, with yellow mesh backed openwork on leaves, tubular beads along the scrolling bands, and iridescent flower-shaped sequins accenting the edges. Unlined. The ikat pattern is same as dress, but predominantly in greens, blues, yellows, and white rather than reds and purple. No labels in coat. C) Hat. Square, box-form hat of stiffened dark brown(?) velvet almost totally covered in heavy gold metallic thread embroidery and with fine gold bugle beads and gold sequins. From top edge of crown is fringe of long bead strands of gold bugle beads ending in gold teardrop beads. Fringe is longer at sides and back, short in front. Lined in printed cotton, red with floral and white with floral. Whole interior is "shellacked" with glue to stiffen. 6 1/4" square x 3" high, not counting fringe.
Festival ensemble including (a) a below-knee length robe of red woven silk with embroidered ram's horn motif trim, (b) a cylindrical cap headpiece covered with circular silver repousse discs, and surmounted by a sphere with a central "spike" from which hang three bells and three oval plaques on short chains, (c) a pendant of silver and simulated lapis lazuli and carnelian, shaped as a large inverted flat "spade" card suit, and (d) a green cloth necklace edged with black cloth tape and embellished with spaced stamped silver roundels.
Festival outfit of the Boysun Tribe, Surxondaryo (Surkhandarya) Province, southern Uzbekistan. a ) Dress of maroon silk with multicolored cotton Suzani-style embroidered floral designs. Knee-length(+/-), with slight v-neckline and collar. Slight gathers/pleats into yoke just below neckline. Embroidery in panels/sections over much of the garment, with white scrolling vine forms, green leaf forms, blue, yellow, and white "snowflake"/roundel motifs, green, red, orange, pink, and white plant forms. Scattered multicolored sequins within some of the embroidery. 3/4-length sleeves with same decoration. Yoke with lining of off-white cotton. Main body of garment unlined. Hem appears to either have been let down, or come out. No labels or tags in garment. b ) Headscarf of woven ikat in blue, yellow, maroon, and off-white. Rectangular, with fringe at narrow ends. To be wrapped around the head in a turban-like fashion. 16 1/4" wide x 68" long w/out fringe. No labels or tags. c ) Chirpy. Jacket-like head cover of thin cotton(?) fabric woven with vertical stripes of pink, yellow, red, green, blue, pale purple, etc. Center front opening with no closures, edged with embroidered band with green outer stripes, reddish inner stripes, and central band of black with scrolling forms in white and orange. Vertical bands from yoke to about waist of groups of triangles in rust, green, purple, blue, yellow, black, white, and pink, a band of checker-board in black, rectangular sections with extending "crosses" in same colors as triangles, and black embroidered "zig-zag" band with "blossoms" extending from zigs on one side, in various colors. Hem is unfinished. At back are hanging panels evolved from the sleeves that hung in back when a real jacket was worn as head-cover. The back panels are tapering rectangles, and are joined about mid-back by thin black tie. "Sleeves" with embroidery as front, with additional bands …
Necklace for festival outfit of the Boysun Tribe, Surxondaryo (Surkhandarya) Province, southern Uzbekistan. D) Bead Necklace. "choker" style bead necklace composed of sections of orange and black horizontal strands interspersed with diamond-shaped motifs of white, orange, green, yellow, and reddish brown. Below the main section is a "fringe, consisting of white beads forming a narrow net, then bands of red and orange, then fringe of blue, yellow, black, white, red, green, and ending in shells, glass beads, etc. Large circular button clasp. No labels.
Necklace. Bead necklace of red and blue glass(?) beads strung on white cord. From necklace, via 3 large loops, is suspended a large horizontal silver-colored tube, with bands of flattened/soldered wire decoration. From lower edge of tube hang pendants of flat silver shapes, some small rectangular, some larger "bird shaped", each set with a red or green stone. From these pendants hand further chains and oval plaques. Tube opens at one end, is empty.
Necklace. Green cloth necklace, edged with black cloth tape and embellished with spaced stamped silver roundels. Button/buttonhole clasp. The necklace supports a massive silver pendant formed as a large triangle set with oval red glass cabochons, between two silver "club" shapes. Below the triangle and clubs is a horizontal silver square tube set with oval red cabochons, below which are four large inverted stylized "fleur-dis-lys" forms, set with oval cabochons. From all lower parts hang long chains and large bells.
Neckpiece. Long, wide rectangular cotton panel suspended vertically from neck strap, with cross-stitch embellished borders, and three vertical columns of arched silver-colored rectangular repousse plaques set on a black ground, with yellow rick-rack bands between. Fringe at bottom edge of red and green strands, red terminating in white beads, green terminating in blue beads. Lined in printed cotton fabrics.
Pendant of silver and simulated lapis lazuli and carnelian, shaped as a large inverted flat "spade" card suit. Central large oval flat red/orange "stone" of glass? (enamel?) within thin metal border or "cell" (French: cloisonne) surrounded by heart-shaped metal "cells" filled with glass or enamel creating a border of small circles of same material and blue "lapis" (glass or enamel?) triangles pointing outwards. Outer border of piece formed of same heart-shapes. The field of the pendant with inlaid(?) brass(?) abstract scrolling. Pendant surmounted by horizontal tube inlaid with same brass, forming suspension loop. Back is plain. Strung on thin black ribbon (modern addition) No marks or hallmarks visible. Measurements: 8 1/2" high from loop to point of spade; 5 3/4" wide at widest.
Traditional Uzbek tubeteika style skull cap of royal blue cotton cloth with all-over embroidery of black ground and floral motifs in green, red, violet, white, and gold. Embroidered band of green around edge with red curves. Measurements: 8 ½" diameter x 2 ½" high.
Hat from a festival outfit of the Boysun Tribe, Surxondaryo (Surkhandarya) Province, southern Uzbekistan. Tubeteika/duppi style skull cap of embroidered cotton with domed crown totally covered in geometric and stylized embroidery forms in green, orange, brown, pink, white, blue/purple, etc. Measurements: 8 cm. high; 18 cm. diameter
Traditional Uzbekistan tubeteika style skull cap of cotton cloth with all-over embroidery with forest green ground with lighter green, red, white, gold, black floral motifs. Embroidered band around edge of black with red shapes. Lined in royal blue cotton. 8 ½" diameter x ca. 2 ½" high.
Traditional Uzbek (Samarkand) tubeteika style hat of deep purple velour trimmed with black velour along bottom. Hat is square shaped with slightly pyramid shaped crown. Trimmed in metallic thread embroidery in a floral design with sequin accents; design is on each side, and four designs on top of crown. Designs consist of teardrop shape at center with red or green velour fill with a small sprig in the center and flowers branching out from each side. Interior of black webbed cotton.
a) Tun Chapan (robe). Silk robe of ikat in reds, yellows, purples, and white. Mid- or longer length. Collarless. Long sleeves. Opens at front, with no closure. Neckline edged with a pink/purple band with over-stitching in dark blue of diamond design. Neckline, opening, cuffs, and hem edged with thin black band ornamented with white over-stitching in ovals/diamonds. Inner thick padded for winter, torso lined with red cotton cloth printed with multi-colored stylized floral designs, sleeves lined with yellow cotton fabric printed with white and reddish pattern of small blossoms and groups of circles arranged in a diamond shape. Ikat design of robe is of vertical stripes, with sections of thin yellow, blue, and red stripes that are primarily "solid" alternating with wide vertical stripes of red and purple which display the white ikat motifs in white. No labels in garment. The following items are part of the ensemble, but are not housed with the hanging robe, and have separate records: b) Neck piece. long, vertical rectangle with 3 columns of silver pieces c) Hat w/beads and multi-colored tassels d) Hair decoration (soch pupok)
Uzbekistan Wedding ensemble a) Pants - ikat in diagonal stripes, white, pinks, purples, etc. and with green upper panels b) Dress - matching ikat, no green panels c) Coat - Purple, embroidery, floral edging d) Veil- white, embroidered, beads, etc. f) Face shield of matching silk ikat covered cardboard with gold fringe along bottom edges. Machine embroidered in yellow lotus(?) flowers with gold bugle bead centers. E) Headpiece. Ornate headpiece of cardboard in the kokoshnik style. Large, triangular panel is covered in gold couched metallic cording with beaded rosettes and sequin backgrounds. Lower edge with fringe of gold beads ending in gold teardrop beads. Upper edge with multicolored row of feathers. Elastic strap across back holding it into shape, and to secure to wearer's head.
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