Cape coat of heavy rust mohair. Rounded collar. Center front opening with 5 large, round, marbled brown plastic buttons reinforced with hook & bar. Machine stitched button holes. Street length. Slit pockets at side seams. Lined in rust colored silk satin fabric. Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"
Cloche-style hat of off-white wool felt. The hat has a deep, cylindrical, domed crown of off-white or cream felt which extends downwards on one side. Around the crown is black zig-zag stitching, and on the side where the crown extends downwards is an applied strip of felt, looped, secured through a stiffened loop of red grosgrain ribbon. The hat is unlined, with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Sewn to inner ribbon band is maker's label: "Schiaparelli / Paris".
Cloche-style hat of blue/gray feathers. The crown of the hat is made of dark blue mesh overlaid with a mosaic of blue/gray feathers. Brimless, the lower edge of the crown arcs upwards at front and slightly in back. The hat is lined in the mesh, and has an inner hatband at the lower inside edge of the crown. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Made In / France", "Christian Dior / Paris"
Cloche style hat of rust colored fur felt. Black velvet trim with self-covered button on left side of crown. Lower edge of inside crown trimmed with black velvet. Unlined with black grosgrain headband. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "The Halle Bros. Co." Inside crown stamped: "Musketeer / Imported Body / Made in Austria" Size tag on inside hatband: "22"
Modified cloche hat of dark blue velour. The oval body of the cloche is designed to be worn cross-wise on head, with one side dipping lower than the other. The sides are decorated with star motifs in dark blue sequins, beads and velvet circlets. Unlined, with inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon and edged with a dark purple(?) band. Designer's and Retailer's combined label: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Original / Expressly for / Neiman-Marcus" Stamp on inside crown illegible.
Coat dress of black silk taffeta jacquard-woven with supplemental pile design in the weft. Black buttons down front. Flaring skirt. A) Coat dress of black silk taffeta with off-white fuzzy woven-in polka dots. Calf-length(? - depends on petticoats), with a small modified "Peter Pan" turn-down collar, which has attached front bias bands to tie into bow at front of collar. 3/4-length set-in sleeves. Center front opening with 16 black circular plastic buttons, hidden snaps at waist and throat, and hook-and-eye at waist. Full, flaring skirt with 13 gores. Unlined. Combined Designer's/Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" B) Belt of matching fabric, backed with black leather. Narrow, with rectangular buckle covered in same fabric. Stamped on reverse: "30+"
Cocktail dress of red rose and green leaf print cotton. Princess style with flaring full skirt. Sleeveless; bodice with scoop neckline and low cut V in back. Knee length. Bodice draped with flower appliques of same fabric. Center back zipper. Lined in white organdy. Designer's label at seam: "Patullo-Jo Copeland" Retailer's label to right of designer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" With accompanying petticoat of nylon, nylon net and outer flounce of white organdy with red rose appliques.
Cocktail dress of orange silk chiffon with scoop neckline and short, raglan sleeves with gathers and underarm gussets. Neckline and center top sleeves embellished with matching silk satin ribbon. Ribbon bow at center front hides zipper closure. Skirt of multilayer chiffon creates a full A-line. Knee-length; natural waist. Designer's label at right waistline: "Galanos" Retailer's label to right of designer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" With accompanying contour belt of leather and silk. Thin belt is covered in orange satin to match dress.
Cocktail dress of large plaid orange, green, purple, and red raw and china silk. The dress is sleeveless, ankle-length, with red/orange raw silk halter-top bodice, "shawl" of same which is attached at mid-back and drapes over shoulders and across front. Lined in pale green. Skirt of dress is of silk, with large, plaid squares of reds, oranges, greens, and purples. Attached cummerbund style belt which buttons in back with 5 self-covered buttons and loops. Center back zipper Lined in light gold organza. Combined designer's/retailer's label at left side seam of lining near hem: "Gump's / San Francisco / Gibson Bayh / Original" Accompanying petticoat formed of three full-length layers of red, purple, and green silk. Each layer with hem band of grosgrain ribbon in a different color, and each with deep net ruffle at hem, also edged with grosgrain ribbon. Center back zipper with two hook & eyes on 1" waistband. Combined designer's/retailer's label at center back waistband: "Gump's / San Francisco / Gibson Bayh / Original"
Cocktail dress of black silk faille and white lawn with black embroidered scallops. Wide boat neckline, short sleeves, natural waistline, princess seaming. Heavy black faille overskirt pleated into waist, cut higher at front to show underskirt of white lawn. Underskirt has horizontal bands of triple lines of scallops, scalloped lower edge of underskirt. Built in hoop understructure with petersham belt and four steel (?) internal hoops. Overlay with petticoat of white cotton with wide horsehair band at hem. Center back zipper.
Day dress of gray and yellow windowpane plaid cotton. Street length with short sleeves. Short collar. Faux placket runs down the center front of the bodice with bow at top and line of 5 non-functional white buttons. Full skirt is pleated and gathers at natural waist. At each side, slightly behind hip, are two slit pockets with side "flaps". Center back zipper closure, and grosgrain ribbon petersham with hook-and-eye closure. Unlined. Designer's label inside at left side seam: "Galanos / Originals / Beverly Hills" Retailer's label inside skirt at front: "Neiman-Marcus".
Day dress of printed cotton, brown on white, with black "spots" in a very tiny geometric pattern. Just below knee length. Double collar and cuffs with white cotton(?) button-in, detachable panels. Short sleeves, pleated into hems. V-neckline below collar, which has lower placket opening with three circular black buttons and bound buttonholes, and one hook-and-loop at waist, inner petersham with hooks and eyes, and series of 4 hidden snaps at center front of skirt. Natural waist, into which bodice and skirt are pleated. Full skirt. Lined in ivory organza/organdy. Designer's label at inside left seam of skirt: "Mollie Parnis / New York" Union label near designer's label. Size label at inside of skirt opening: "Size 10" With accompanying belt of black patent leather; 2" wide with square buckle.
Daytime dress of printed cotton lawn. Street-length of white cotton lawn is printed with stripes of grays and coral is sleeveless, with wide straps and V-neckline in front and back. The bodice is cut so that stripes are diagonal, meeting at center front and back and emphasizing the V-neckline. The narrow waist is slightly dropped, and is defined by a wide set-in decorative belt of the same fabric, with stripes running horizontally, with fabric-wrapped rectangular buckle and ends. The full skirt has stripes running vertically, and is gathered at the waist/bottom of the belt. There is one underskirt of cream faille, and a second of stiff cream netting. The center-back zipper closure extends from single hook-and-eye at neckline to base of belt. Bodice is partly lined with cream faille and has internal boning. There is a white grosgrain ribbon inner waistband with hook-and-eye closures. Designer's label is sewn inside dress, to bodice lining at left side: "Adele Simpson". This dress was a gift of the designer Adele Simpson and her husband Wesley Simpson to the Dallas Museum of Fashion, which later became the Texas Fashion Collection.
Dress (evening?) of gray and gold brocade in floral pattern with small roses. Below knee length, with short sleeves, and with collarless rounded neckline, split at center front. Center front opening, which has: 3 self-covered circular buttons and bound button holes on bodice; one hook-and-loop tab in pleating; three hook and loop fasteners at dropped waist narrow waistband/belt; 6 functioning self-covered buttons and bound buttonholes on skirt; and with two faux bound button holes at bottom near hem. Full skirt is pleated into waistband. Large bow-form of self at center back of waistband. Lined in sheer cream silk. Designer's label at waist, right back: "Christian Dior - New York Inc."
a) Dress of oatmeal colored silk with black polka dots. Six self covered buttons with covered buttonholes supplemented with snaps and hook & eyes at waist form front closure. Short, modified raglan sleeves. Bodice lined in oatmeal colored silk crepe. Gathered at hip line. Skirt supported with netting and lined in cream colored organza. Designer's label at left inside seam: "Galanos" Retailer's label at right inside seam: "Neiman-Marcus" b) Matching belt in same. Belts at natural waist in large gap between buttons. Belt in two pieces; longer piece has self covered buckles at each end and smaller piece has 3 punch holes at each end. Leather backing in natural color. Back stamped: "Galanos"
Dress of black wool with black leather trim. The street-length dress has a standup collar trimmed in snaps. Front opening is leather trimmed and has 5 self-covered snaps. Detachable front skirt panel is edged along top with black leather trim and secured with 5 self-covered snaps. Bracelet length sleeves trimmed with snaps at cuff. Back zipper. Fully lined in black satin. Handwritten label on inside back seam: "Pierre Balmain Fall 1955"
(At Left) Evening ensemble of brown silk shantung. The camisole is sleeveless, with a boat neckline. Center back closure with 10 small circular buttons covered with matching fabric. The blouse is lined in dark brown silk, and has an inner structure of net and metal boning. The understructure extends below the top to give structure to the skirt. The inner net and boning layer has a center back closure of 14 hook-and-eyes, matching along same line as outer closure. The skirt is of matching materials, A-line, below-the-knee length. It has a 2" waistband decorated with horizontal ruching. Center-back zipper closure with two hook-and-eyes in waistband. The skirt has an attached black rayon gorgette underslip, and an attached black nylon petticoat. The petticoat has a horsehair braid incorporated in the hem for stiffening. The matching swing coat is calf length, with a rolled collar and short sleeves. It is constructed with several layers of organza for structure and a tuck panel around the coat for decoration and flounce. Lined in brown silk. There are no labels in the garment. Photograph is from the exhibition "Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers", held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows suit as displayed. From the original collection of the Dallas Museum of Fashion, which later became the Texas Fashion Collection.
Evening dress of black silk taffeta. Street length; short sleeves. Scooped neckline with attached, pleated capelet/stole which secures to dress with snaps and white, 4-1/2" wide grosgrain ribbon bow at left. Bow buttons onto capelet/stole with small button covered in matching black taffeta. Straight skirt from natural waistline. Center back zipper with hook & loop. Lined in black organdy(?) with black grosgrain petersham. Designer's label on center back seam: "Christian Dior - New York Inc." Retailer's label on center back seam: "Neiman-Marcus" With accompanying belt, covered in matching black taffeta. Square buckle; 32" x 1-1/4".
Evening hat of black silk satin and black ostrich feathers. hat is formed as a black satin domed crown totally covered with black ostrich feathers, forming a cloud around the wearer's head. At front, and running below feathers around head, is wide band of black silk satin, with a bow at front center. Hat is lined in black silk.
Pair of gloves of tan suede. The wrist-length gloves are plain, with hand-stitching. Size/Designer Label stamped inside: "7 / Made in France / by / Roger Fare" Retailer Label: "Neiman-Marcus / Made in France"
Evening gloves of midnight blue satin. Dark blue jersey knit at palms and fingers. 6cm slit on back of glove (ending at wrist). Two piece arms of gloves cross to form bow-like feature on back. Elbow length. Designer Label: Lucienne Harang / M / New York
Pair of gloves in off-white cotton. Pull-on; wrist length with scalloped ends. Scalloped, curved line down center with 3 French knots in center of each curve. Scalloped edges trimmed with topstitching.
Hat of navy blue fur felt. The low crown is domed, with steep sides at sides and back, while the front has a shallow slope extending out to become a slight brim/visor. The hat is unlined, with a dark blue grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" Stamped inside felt crown: "French Importation" "Ghazelle" Size label: "21 1/2"
Hat of black velour. The crown has a shallow cone at top, a slight protruding upper edge, and cylindrical sides. At the point of the crown is a cord button and band which extendst over left side and ends in a gilt metal pendant ornament. Hat is unlined, and has a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label: "Ranél Original" Stamped label of felt maker: "Opera / Imported / Velour / Made in Italy"
Hat of bright yellow straw in mushroom style. 1" crown and 5" brim (turned down). Yellow, white silk flowers and green leaves as trim around crown. Wire hair clips underneath. Unlined with yellow grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Tag on inner headband: "Adjustable"
Hat of white fabric with small navy blue polka dots. Styled somewhat as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the low, domed crown is encircled by the deeply rolled brim. At center back is a red silk carnation with navy blue ribbon bow with trailing ribbons. The rolled brim is overlaid with a navy blue mesh veil. The crown is unlined, allowing stiffened straw(?) under-structure to be seen, and has an inner dark blue grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label: "Chanda" Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus"
Hat of black straw. The hat is designed with a flat-top, cylindrical crown encircled by a wide band of off-white grosgrain ribbon, folded in half lengthwise, and by a wide band of black grosgrain ribbon which is tied at back in a large bow. The narrow brim, of same straw, is wider at front than back, and angles downwards steeply. Retailer's labe: "Volk".
Hat of pink fur felt. Designed as a modified sailor or "Pamela" hat, the domed crown is set within "walls" formed by the steeply upturned brim. At front of hat on outside of brim is an ornate bow made of various shades and widths of grosgrain ribbon. The hat is unlined, but the underside of the brim is of the same fur felt. There is an inner hatband of pink grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label: "Kay & Guy / Anderson / New York" Retailer's label: "Gus Mayer / Co. Ltd." Felt maker's stamp: "Mousse / HB / Body Made In France": Size label: "22"
Hat of black velvet. Soft cylindrical crown has a flattened top, and is encircled at base by a band of black grosgrain ribbon, tied into a bow at side and with trailing ends. Almost circular brim is split at right side, curves down somewhat, and is enhanced by concentric rows of top-stiching. The underside of the brim is lined in white. Designer's label: "Betmar"
Hat of ornate braid/trim. Styled somewhat as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the domed crown is formed of a coiled spiral of an ornate braid of strands of strung golden and silver sequins, and wired chenille. Embellished at side by a large plume of gold-painted(?)/gilt feathers No labels.
Hat of muted violet straw. Styled somewhat as a sailor hat, the 2 1/2" conical crown is flattened at top, and has slightly sloping sides. Encircling the base of the crown is a 3/4" wide hatband of twisted muted cerise pink and purple velvet ribbons. At front of crown is a cluster of four velvet roses, 2 violet, 2 cerise with green leaves. Mounted above the roses is a violet velvet wrapped stand-up ornament with small bow at top, slightly to left of center front crown. The 4" wide flat brim has a narrow magenta velvet rolled band on underside of the outer edge. The hat is unlined, with an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label: "3410 Oak Lawn / Bernie A. Cahn / Dallas, Tex"
Hat of beige fur felt. The shaped crown is somewhat rounded, with a peak at front and a deep fold running from the peak towards the back right of the crown. At back, the crown is cut to form an inverted "sweetheart" line, while at front it curves forward and up slightly to form a small brim/visor effect. At top of crown, behind the peak, is a feather spray of brown and white feathers. The hat is unlined, with an inner dark brown grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label: "J. Suzanne Talbot / 8 Avenue Matignon" Origin label: "Made in France"
Hat of navy blue straw. The very shallow crown is slightly domed, and surmounted by a large flat grosgrain ribbon bow. The wide brim curves down at outer edges, forming a deep curve. The whole rests on a hidden skull-cap crown with panel that extends down and over the back and sides of head. The hat is overlaid with a dark blue net veil worked with circular areas.
Hat of black felt. Wide, flat brim with trim of self around crown. Two ties of self for securing hat to wearer's head. Lined in black netting with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Made to Order"
Hat of black felt. Styled as a modified boater or "Pamela hat", the domed crown is encircled at base with a wide band of black grosgrain ribbon. The brim curves up sharply, forming a "wall" around the crown. The hat is unlined. Felt maker's label: "Glenover / Fawntra-Felt / Henry Pollak Inc / New York / 100% Wool"
Hat of navy blue velvet. Styled as an oversized calotte (also spelled "calot"), the low, domed crown is encircled by overlapping bands of the same material. At front and sides of hat is an embellishment of leaf-form set with blue beads and pearls. The front and sides are overlaid with a fine mesh veil, which has small scattered worked circles. No labels in hat.
Hat of creamy, off-white fur felt. Brimless with wide, low crown resembling a pillbox style. Center of crown has floral, circular geometric stitched pattern which trails to outside edge forming diamond shapes. Outer edge of crown has four diamond shapes with boucle texture. Unlined with tan grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Designer's label on inner headband: "Sally V / Designed By Sally Victor" Retailer's label to right of designer's label: "Titche-Goettinger Co. / Dallas"
Hat of navy blue woven straw and mesh. Designed somewhat as a modified sailor or "Pamela" hat, the high crown is domed at top, and encircled at the base with a mesh band that forms a bow at side. The brim is of navy blue mesh, turning up at outer edge. The outer "walls" formed by the turned-up area is covered in the same woven straw as the crown. Hat is unlined, allowing net understructure to be seen, and has a pink grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Salon"
Hat of beige velour. Styled as a modified calotte (also spelled "calot"), the hat has a low domed crown and narrow rolled brim with extends slightly more in front to form a "visor" shape. Set at front of hat is an ornament of crossed large white and beige feathers, and smaller gray and white ones. Underside of visor lined with an off-white jersey-like material, and the hat has an inner hatband of dark gray beige grosgrain ribbon overlaid with silver rickrack and pink lace. Maker's label: "Chapeaux / Paris...Chicago" Stamped inside crown: "Midi / Imported velour body / Made in France"
Hat of fine pale pink straw, pink satin, and artificial flowers. The body of the hat is of woven fine pale pink straw. The cylindrical, flat-topped crown is encircled by a wide, horizontally pleated band of pink satin. The hat has a very narrow, almost non-existent brim of the same straw. At right side of hat is a large spray of pale pink artificial flowers with green stems. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of white ribbon machine embroidered/brocaded with red and green floral motifs. Designer's label: "An Original / Phil Strann / California"
Hat of green net and artificial flowers. Formed somewhat as a Juliet cap, the net base has wire stiffened edges and forms a close, rounded crown with sections that extend down sides and back of head. The base is covered with artificial flowers (daisies or dogwood blossoms?), with green cloth stems and leaves, the blossoms with white petals and yellow centers. Unlined. With 3 black bobby-pins for securing to wearer's head.
Hat of finely woven off-white straw. Styled as a boater or "Pamela hat", the low domed crown is encircled at base by a wide band of off-white grosgrain ribbon with trailing ends at back right. The circular brim curves up at the outer edge. Unlined, the hat has an inner off-white grosgrain ribbon headband. Label inside: "Marian Marcia / Exclusives"
Hat of bright, light orange felt hat. The domed crown is wrapped with a "pleated" pale orange silk chiffon band, over which is a second layer of a very light gray/smoke colored net. The orange felt brim curves downwards. The underside of the brim is lined with the orange felt, while the crown is lined with white silk with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label sewn into crown: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York"
Cocktail hat of violet silk satin. The hat is formed of a low, cylindrical, flat-topped pillbox-style crown covered in drapes of violet/purple silk satin fabric. At center front/top of the crown are two large sculptural stiffened loops of the fabric. Crown is lined in cream fabric. Along inside lower edge of crown is a cream grosgrain ribbon band. No labels. Donor stated: "...worn on back of head with upstanding loops in front, made for a grey lace three-quarter cocktail dress..."
Hat of beige/brown felt. The domed crown gently transitions into the medium-width brim, and extends forward in front, flattening and forming a bill-like extension. At sides and back, brim turns up and extends vertically most of height of crown. The underside of the brim/bill is made of same felt, carried under to continue same facing as top. Crown is unlined, and the hat has a brown grosgrain ribbon inner hatband and a black elastic cord secured to inner hatband to help secure hat to wearer's head. Label sewn inside crown: "Mr. John"
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