Calotte style hat of black velvet. Small, quilted brim folds up in front and back. One, long tie string of same drapes across front brim and down sides. Black grosgrain ribbon inside hatband. Lined in black fabric. Manufacturer's label on inside hatband: "Betmar / Adj." Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Lord & Taylor / young new yorkers' / hat shop / Fifth Avenue"
Calotte style hat of light brown satin. Brim is trimmed in brown and yellow velvet strawberry clusters with green and brown velvet leaves. Lined in rose colored brocade of floral design. Inner headband of pink grosgrain ribbon trimmed with cinnamon colored lace embellished with pink embroidered flower with rhinestone center at front. Maker's label on inside headband: "Paris / Chapeaux / Chicago"
Calotte style hat of stiffened black woven fabric. One black velvet bow in the back and alternating black woven and black velvet "half bows" around edge of crown. Black veil in front. Retailer's label on inside crown: "The Fair / Fort Worth"
Calotte of navy straw cloth. Small upturned brim is separate from crown and forms Vs at sides. Pale pink rose with green leaves on left front as trim with navy veil embellished with rhinestones. Lined in navy satin.
Calotte style hat of black velvet with black pleated satin coil wrapping around brim of hat. Two vertical bands of rhinestones embellish left and right front of hat. Retailer's label on inside headband: "The Fair / Fort Worth"
Calotte style hat covered in dark green/black feathers, overlaid with floral appliques of black beading. Lined in black satin, edged with a thin band of dark jersey material and with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label inside: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York". Label is large, extending almost from edge to edge across inside of crown.
Cap of black velvet and feathers. Styled somewhat as a "newsboy cap", or a pillbox with a brim, the cylindrical black velvet crown bulges slightly at sides. At front, extending slightly to sides, is black visor of same velvet, angled downwards, edged with black grosgrain ribbon. The visor is covered with fan sprays of multicolored small feathers in browns, tans, and creams, with black edging. Centered with a black grosgrain ribbon bow. Crown is lined in multicolored brocade fabric with scrolling foliate and floral forms. Inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label at inside hatband: "Christine / Original" Received in a period hatbox labeled "Levy's".
Cap of dark navy blue velvet. Designed with a domed crown which slopes out to front to form a visor/brim, and extends down slightly further in back than front. Lined in dark blue satin, and with an inner hatband of dark blue velvet. Retailer's stamp on hatband, partly illegible: "Neiman Marcus Co. / New York Dallas " Size label: "ADJ."
Cape coat of heavy rust mohair. Rounded collar. Center front opening with 5 large, round, marbled brown plastic buttons reinforced with hook & bar. Machine stitched button holes. Street length. Slit pockets at side seams. Lined in rust colored silk satin fabric. Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"
Cloche-style hat of off-white wool felt. The hat has a deep, cylindrical, domed crown of off-white or cream felt which extends downwards on one side. Around the crown is black zig-zag stitching, and on the side where the crown extends downwards is an applied strip of felt, looped, secured through a stiffened loop of red grosgrain ribbon. The hat is unlined, with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Sewn to inner ribbon band is maker's label: "Schiaparelli / Paris".
Cloche-style hat of blue/gray feathers. The crown of the hat is made of dark blue mesh overlaid with a mosaic of blue/gray feathers. Brimless, the lower edge of the crown arcs upwards at front and slightly in back. The hat is lined in the mesh, and has an inner hatband at the lower inside edge of the crown. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Made In / France", "Christian Dior / Paris"
Modified cloche hat of dark blue velour. The oval body of the cloche is designed to be worn cross-wise on head, with one side dipping lower than the other. The sides are decorated with star motifs in dark blue sequins, beads and velvet circlets. Unlined, with inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon and edged with a dark purple(?) band. Designer's and Retailer's combined label: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Original / Expressly for / Neiman-Marcus" Stamp on inside crown illegible.
Cloche style hat of rust colored fur felt. Black velvet trim with self-covered button on left side of crown. Lower edge of inside crown trimmed with black velvet. Unlined with black grosgrain headband. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "The Halle Bros. Co." Inside crown stamped: "Musketeer / Imported Body / Made in Austria" Size tag on inside hatband: "22"
Coat dress of black silk taffeta jacquard-woven with supplemental pile design in the weft. Black buttons down front. Flaring skirt. A) Coat dress of black silk taffeta with off-white fuzzy woven-in polka dots. Calf-length(? - depends on petticoats), with a small modified "Peter Pan" turn-down collar, which has attached front bias bands to tie into bow at front of collar. 3/4-length set-in sleeves. Center front opening with 16 black circular plastic buttons, hidden snaps at waist and throat, and hook-and-eye at waist. Full, flaring skirt with 13 gores. Unlined. Combined Designer's/Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" B) Belt of matching fabric, backed with black leather. Narrow, with rectangular buckle covered in same fabric. Stamped on reverse: "30+"
Cocktail dress of black silk faille and white lawn with black embroidered scallops. Wide boat neckline, short sleeves, natural waistline, princess seaming. Heavy black faille overskirt pleated into waist, cut higher at front to show underskirt of white lawn. Underskirt has horizontal bands of triple lines of scallops, scalloped lower edge of underskirt. Built in hoop understructure with petersham belt and four steel (?) internal hoops. Overlay with petticoat of white cotton with wide horsehair band at hem. Center back zipper.
Cocktail dress of red rose and green leaf print cotton. Princess style with flaring full skirt. Sleeveless; bodice with scoop neckline and low cut V in back. Knee length. Bodice draped with flower appliques of same fabric. Center back zipper. Lined in white organdy. Designer's label at seam: "Patullo-Jo Copeland" Retailer's label to right of designer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" With accompanying petticoat of nylon, nylon net and outer flounce of white organdy with red rose appliques.
Cocktail dress of large plaid orange, green, purple, and red raw and china silk. The dress is sleeveless, ankle-length, with red/orange raw silk halter-top bodice, "shawl" of same which is attached at mid-back and drapes over shoulders and across front. Lined in pale green. Skirt of dress is of silk, with large, plaid squares of reds, oranges, greens, and purples. Attached cummerbund style belt which buttons in back with 5 self-covered buttons and loops. Center back zipper Lined in light gold organza. Combined designer's/retailer's label at left side seam of lining near hem: "Gump's / San Francisco / Gibson Bayh / Original" Accompanying petticoat formed of three full-length layers of red, purple, and green silk. Each layer with hem band of grosgrain ribbon in a different color, and each with deep net ruffle at hem, also edged with grosgrain ribbon. Center back zipper with two hook & eyes on 1" waistband. Combined designer's/retailer's label at center back waistband: "Gump's / San Francisco / Gibson Bayh / Original"
Cocktail dress of orange silk chiffon with scoop neckline and short, raglan sleeves with gathers and underarm gussets. Neckline and center top sleeves embellished with matching silk satin ribbon. Ribbon bow at center front hides zipper closure. Skirt of multilayer chiffon creates a full A-line. Knee-length; natural waist. Designer's label at right waistline: "Galanos" Retailer's label to right of designer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" With accompanying contour belt of leather and silk. Thin belt is covered in orange satin to match dress.
Day dress of gray and yellow windowpane plaid cotton. Street length with short sleeves. Short collar. Faux placket runs down the center front of the bodice with bow at top and line of 5 non-functional white buttons. Full skirt is pleated and gathers at natural waist. At each side, slightly behind hip, are two slit pockets with side "flaps". Center back zipper closure, and grosgrain ribbon petersham with hook-and-eye closure. Unlined. Designer's label inside at left side seam: "Galanos / Originals / Beverly Hills" Retailer's label inside skirt at front: "Neiman-Marcus".
Day dress of printed cotton, brown on white, with black "spots" in a very tiny geometric pattern. Just below knee length. Double collar and cuffs with white cotton(?) button-in, detachable panels. Short sleeves, pleated into hems. V-neckline below collar, which has lower placket opening with three circular black buttons and bound buttonholes, and one hook-and-loop at waist, inner petersham with hooks and eyes, and series of 4 hidden snaps at center front of skirt. Natural waist, into which bodice and skirt are pleated. Full skirt. Lined in ivory organza/organdy. Designer's label at inside left seam of skirt: "Mollie Parnis / New York" Union label near designer's label. Size label at inside of skirt opening: "Size 10" With accompanying belt of black patent leather; 2" wide with square buckle.
Daytime dress of printed cotton lawn. Street-length of white cotton lawn is printed with stripes of grays and coral is sleeveless, with wide straps and V-neckline in front and back. The bodice is cut so that stripes are diagonal, meeting at center front and back and emphasizing the V-neckline. The narrow waist is slightly dropped, and is defined by a wide set-in decorative belt of the same fabric, with stripes running horizontally, with fabric-wrapped rectangular buckle and ends. The full skirt has stripes running vertically, and is gathered at the waist/bottom of the belt. There is one underskirt of cream faille, and a second of stiff cream netting. The center-back zipper closure extends from single hook-and-eye at neckline to base of belt. Bodice is partly lined with cream faille and has internal boning. There is a white grosgrain ribbon inner waistband with hook-and-eye closures. Designer's label is sewn inside dress, to bodice lining at left side: "Adele Simpson". This dress was a gift of the designer Adele Simpson and her husband Wesley Simpson to the Dallas Museum of Fashion, which later became the Texas Fashion Collection.
Dress of black wool with black leather trim. The street-length dress has a standup collar trimmed in snaps. Front opening is leather trimmed and has 5 self-covered snaps. Detachable front skirt panel is edged along top with black leather trim and secured with 5 self-covered snaps. Bracelet length sleeves trimmed with snaps at cuff. Back zipper. Fully lined in black satin. Handwritten label on inside back seam: "Pierre Balmain Fall 1955"
Dress (evening?) of gray and gold brocade in floral pattern with small roses. Below knee length, with short sleeves, and with collarless rounded neckline, split at center front. Center front opening, which has: 3 self-covered circular buttons and bound button holes on bodice; one hook-and-loop tab in pleating; three hook and loop fasteners at dropped waist narrow waistband/belt; 6 functioning self-covered buttons and bound buttonholes on skirt; and with two faux bound button holes at bottom near hem. Full skirt is pleated into waistband. Large bow-form of self at center back of waistband. Lined in sheer cream silk. Designer's label at waist, right back: "Christian Dior - New York Inc."
a) Dress of oatmeal colored silk with black polka dots. Six self covered buttons with covered buttonholes supplemented with snaps and hook & eyes at waist form front closure. Short, modified raglan sleeves. Bodice lined in oatmeal colored silk crepe. Gathered at hip line. Skirt supported with netting and lined in cream colored organza. Designer's label at left inside seam: "Galanos" Retailer's label at right inside seam: "Neiman-Marcus" b) Matching belt in same. Belts at natural waist in large gap between buttons. Belt in two pieces; longer piece has self covered buckles at each end and smaller piece has 3 punch holes at each end. Leather backing in natural color. Back stamped: "Galanos"
(At Left) Evening ensemble of brown silk shantung. The camisole is sleeveless, with a boat neckline. Center back closure with 10 small circular buttons covered with matching fabric. The blouse is lined in dark brown silk, and has an inner structure of net and metal boning. The understructure extends below the top to give structure to the skirt. The inner net and boning layer has a center back closure of 14 hook-and-eyes, matching along same line as outer closure. The skirt is of matching materials, A-line, below-the-knee length. It has a 2" waistband decorated with horizontal ruching. Center-back zipper closure with two hook-and-eyes in waistband. The skirt has an attached black rayon gorgette underslip, and an attached black nylon petticoat. The petticoat has a horsehair braid incorporated in the hem for stiffening. The matching swing coat is calf length, with a rolled collar and short sleeves. It is constructed with several layers of organza for structure and a tuck panel around the coat for decoration and flounce. Lined in brown silk. There are no labels in the garment. Photograph is from the exhibition "Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers", held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows suit as displayed. From the original collection of the Dallas Museum of Fashion, which later became the Texas Fashion Collection.
Evening dress of black silk taffeta. Street length; short sleeves. Scooped neckline with attached, pleated capelet/stole which secures to dress with snaps and white, 4-1/2" wide grosgrain ribbon bow at left. Bow buttons onto capelet/stole with small button covered in matching black taffeta. Straight skirt from natural waistline. Center back zipper with hook & loop. Lined in black organdy(?) with black grosgrain petersham. Designer's label on center back seam: "Christian Dior - New York Inc." Retailer's label on center back seam: "Neiman-Marcus" With accompanying belt, covered in matching black taffeta. Square buckle; 32" x 1-1/4".
Evening hat of black silk satin and black ostrich feathers. hat is formed as a black satin domed crown totally covered with black ostrich feathers, forming a cloud around the wearer's head. At front, and running below feathers around head, is wide band of black silk satin, with a bow at front center. Hat is lined in black silk.
Pair of gloves of tan suede. The wrist-length gloves are plain, with hand-stitching. Size/Designer Label stamped inside: "7 / Made in France / by / Roger Fare" Retailer Label: "Neiman-Marcus / Made in France"
Pair of gloves in off-white cotton. Pull-on; wrist length with scalloped ends. Scalloped, curved line down center with 3 French knots in center of each curve. Scalloped edges trimmed with topstitching.
Evening gloves of midnight blue satin. Dark blue jersey knit at palms and fingers. 6cm slit on back of glove (ending at wrist). Two piece arms of gloves cross to form bow-like feature on back. Elbow length. Designer Label: Lucienne Harang / M / New York
Hat of light-colored straw. Domed crown is surmounted by small sphere of woven straw, and is canted back slightly. Around the base of the crown is a wide band of two layers of white grosgrain ribbon which have extending ends at side. The "snap brim" is slanted downwards at front, but turned up at sides and back. The hat is lined in a fine golden/yellow mesh, and has an inner white grosgrain ribbon hatband at base of crown. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Emme Inc / New York" Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Amen Wardy / El Paso - Texas"
Hat of pink chiffon and artificial flowers. The crown is made of horizontally tucked pink chiffon giving a "turban" effect, with two large pink velvet and organza artificial flowers to front left. Lined in brocade of cream ground with golden/brown branches and leaves, and pale blue blossoms. Cream grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label: "Henry's Hats"
Hat of natural straw. The low, domed crown is encircled by a green velvet ribbon, and enhanced with artificial flowers in yellow, coral, and peach. The oval brim is set off-center, and "waved at one side to creat an undulating effect. Unlined, with a pale green inner grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label: "Henrys / Dallas"
Hat of navy blue fur felt. Designed as a modified pillbox hat, the low, domed crown is set into a cylinder of the same felt, giving a "waist" just below the upper edge of the crown. At front of the hat is a large flat bow of off-white ribbed cotton(?). Hat has a lower, inset rim piped in same fabric as bow. Hat is unlined, with inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Accompanied by a single hatpin, the head covered with matching navy blue fur felt. Retailer's label inside: "Made To Order Hat / Bergdorf / Goodman / Fifth Ave at 58th St."; Stamp inside crown of maker of felt form: "[Coat of arms] Fur Felt / Body by / Mallory"
Hat of flowers. The low, domed crown of stiffened white net is covered with green fabric and completely covered in large artificial flowers in shades of pinks and reds, with scattered green vinyl leaves. The hat is lined in white lace, and has a double inner hatband of black and of a silvery gold metallic rickrack. Label inside: "Henrys / Dallas". Henrys has alternately been identified as a hat maker and as a retailer.
Hat of off-white fur felt. The crown of the hat is shaped as low, domed tear-drop, the point curving down along the back of the wearer's head. The tightly rolled brim follows the shape of the crown, and creates a "tail" at back of head. The hat has an inner off-white grosgrain ribbon hatband, and a black elastic back-strap to help secure it to wearer's head. Accompanied by two hatpins, the heads covered with matching felt. Designer's label: "E Garnett / Italian Made / Imported Original"
Hat of brown/burnt ocher fur felt. The hat is designed with a low, domed, saucer-shaped crown set into the wide, downwards-curving bowl-shaped brim of same material. The hat rests on the head with an inner ring which extends down from crown, and has an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. At sides are black grosgrain covered clips to help secure hat to wearer's head, and a black elastic strap to secure hat around back of wearer's head. With two hatpins, the heads covered with matching fur felt. Designer's label inside: "Eleanora Garnett / Italian Made / Imported Original"
Hat of black straw. The hat is formed as a wide, shallow domed crown, overlaid with "fringe" sewn in a dense spiral from the top center rosette, creating tiers/layers. Brimless, the crown rests on the head, with black straw covered arched bands to help secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label inside: "Lee Bury / Hats / of Dallas"
Hat of red/orange straw. Constructed of bands of braided straw sewn in a spiral, the crown is a shallow cylinder with inset flattened top, and flares out at base to form the steeply sloped brim. At left side of crown is large applied flat bow of same straw. Unlined, the hat has an inner band of self, partly overlaid with cream velvet as a hatband.
Hat of black felt. Wide, flat brim with trim of self around crown. Two ties of self for securing hat to wearer's head. Lined in black netting with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Made to Order"
Hat of light beige fabric embellished with top-stitching. The high, cylindrical crown has a rounded edge, and has top-stitching in parallel rows arranged in panels, forming a "patchwork" pattern. The crown is encircled at the base by a wide folded band of beige fabric with bow at back. Wide brim slopes downwards, and has concentric rings of top-stitching. The crown is lined with cream fabric printed in dark golden yellow with "Mr. John" logo in script over entire field. The hat has an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband, and a second under layer band of off-white lace. Designers Label: "Mr. John" Accompanied by a small hat pin, the head covered with fabric matching the hatband/bow.
Hat of green velvet. The low, domed crown of dark green velvet is surrounded by a band of the same fabric, with a wide "belt loop" at back. The brim is off-center, some what wider at front, also of dark green velvet, very full and somewhat gathered into the band around the crown. The crown is lined in black mesh, and has an inner hatband of brown grosgrain ribbon. A small taupe stitched start on the inner hatband indicates the front of the hat. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Irene of New York". Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus / Salon"
Hat of white mink. Styled as a low turban, the hat is of white, bleached mink. When seen from above, the hat appears as a tight spiral of white fur. The hat is lined in white satin, with an inner hatband of red grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Irene of New York". Retailer's label sewn to lower edge of designer's label: "Neiman-Marcus".
Hat of braided navy straw. Similar to a pillbox hat, the cylindrical crown is slightly domed, and surmounted by a sphere at top center made of navy satin braid. The whole is overlaid with blue veiling/netting. Unlined, with inner dark blue grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label at inner hatband: "Cedar Crest / Original" Accompanied by a single hatpin, the head covered with blue fabric matching the hat.
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