Day dress in beige pesanté silk. Bias band collar extending into tubular tie with open hemmed ends. Tie graduates for 1/2 inch at center back collar to 4-1/4 inch at ends. Three 1 inch self-covered round buttons at bodice front. Piped button holes and 13 inch hidden zipper below. Bracelet length dolman sleeves. Back yoke. Street length. Two 8-1/2 inch x 8 inch hip patch pockets. Unlined. Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"
Daytime ensemble of brown silk consisting of: A) Dress. Below-knee length, the dress has princess seaming to create fitted bodice, with wide V-neckline, 3/4" shoulder straps and straight skirt. 1" belt of self fabric from front darts to center back. Center back zipper. Unlined. Designer's label: "Christian Dior Original / Made in U.S.A. / Christian Dior - New York Inc." Retailer's label: "Harzfeld's / Kansas City" B) Jacket. Cropped jacket is pleated in front and back to a 3" waistband on which are three brass buttons 1/2" wide, and bound buttonholes. Long sleeves with 1-1/2" cuffs and one matching button per sleeve. Band collar has 10" tie ends and L-shaped lapel. Unlined.
Dress of blue/gray silk satin or peau de soie, in shirtwaist style. Notched collar. Self covered button at center front with bound buttonhole. Waist seam; 3/4 length skirt with pleats on front and back of skirt. Half-length sleeves with self covered button, turn-back cuffs and bound buttonhole. Armhole princess seams front and back. Tucks on front and back bodice. Center back zipper. Lined in blue organdy with 1/2" blue grosgrain ribbon petersham. With belt of self-fabric forming a bow at center front with hook & eye and snap closure. Designer's label at center back seam below zipper: "Christian Dior - New York, Inc."
Cocktail or Evening Dress. The mid-length dress has a pink crepe under-dress/slip which is overlaid with a black net sheath embellished with lavish black bead-work in the forms of rose-heads forming a trellis and fan-shapes in the openings of the trellis. The dress is sleeveless, with a high boat neckline. At natural waist is an attached pink satin belt with bow in front. Center back zipper, with section of hooks-and-eyes at upper part. There are two labels in the dress, the Retailer's label "Neiman-Marcus" sewn inside at waist to right of zipper, and maker's label sewn inside near top of under-dress on left of zipper "Made in British Crown / Colony Hong Kong". With accompanying long rectangular pink chiffon scarf. No labels on scarf.
Dress of white silk with multicolored bird and foliage print. Squared neckline with double collar. Short set-in sleeves with two reverse tucks at cuff. Mid-calf length. Two layers of reversed tucks below natural waist line. Back interest of three tiers of sculptural pleating simulating a flat bustle; folds are attached on right and close on left with three snaps. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Unlined. With matching belt of same fabric, 1-1/2" wide. Rectangular, self-covered buckle.
Dress. The mid-length dress has a pink crepe under-dress/slip which is overlaid with a black net sheath embellished with lavish black bead-work in the forms of rose-heads forming a trellis and fan-shapes in the openings of the trellis. The dress is sleeveless, with a high boat neckline. At natural waist is an attached pink satin belt with bow in front. Center back zipper, with section of hooks-and-eyes at upper part. The dress is accompanied by a long rectangular pink chiffon scarf. There are two labels in the dress, the Retailer's label "Neiman-Marcus" sewn inside at waist to right of zipper, and maker's label sewn inside near top of under-dress on left of zipper "Made in British Crown / Colony Hong Kong". No labels on scarf.
Kutchi Dress of the Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan. Full-length. Bodice of various fabrics and embellishments. Rounded neckline with slight standing/band collar of primarily yellow bead-work with blue bead squares containing red bead centers. "Collar" below neckline of pendant silver-colored coins. Shoulder areas of purple with primarily yellow stitching forming scroll-work. Front "bib" of dark red outlined with same bead-work as neckline, and sewn with 9 horizontal rows of green tear-drop shaped beads and a line of silver-colored coins. Center part of bodice of black fabric with all-over red reflective circles. Wide "waist" of dress with geometric bead-work band of white, green, red, blue, and orange, with band of small circular mirrors and two lower borders of fringe tipped with white and green beads, and lowest border of coins. Sleeves of dark green velvet with bands of rickrack of silver and gold, and stitching matching the shoulder areas. Edged with bead-work and with row of silver-colored coins. Skirt is full-length, and full, and is of dark blue/black fabric printed with white and grey pattern of small flower blossoms, paisley shapes, dots, leaves, etc. Hem of dress with wide embroidered band, upper section with horizontal band of squares of various colors (reddish, green, orange, pale green, purple), center band of yellow, and lower band of reddish/magenta. Unlined. No labels or tags.
Ensemble of blue silk crepe with black and white print, consisting of: A) Tunic top of silk crepe. Short, bat wing sleeves with insert of black, rectangular material at shoulder line. Mock V-neck opening backed with same material and ties of self. Center back zipper. Unlined. Designer's label at back zipper: "Adrian / Original" B) Skirt of same fabric. Straight; below knee-length. Black crepe waistband. Zipper closure with slit at hem line. Unlined.
Ensemble in black and oatmeal colored wool, consisting of: A) Jacket: Semi-fitted wool in abstracted herringbone weave with black and oatmeal yarns running double throughout; moderately rounded neckline with asymmetrical mandarin collar; full-length raglan sleeves with overarm seam and undersleeve; double breasted front opening with eight round, plastic, oatmeal colored buttons and four bound buttonholes supplemented by single hook & eye inside lap at waist; vertical welt pockets on front lined in black silk; fully lined in black silk. Designer's label at inside collar: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris" and "Made in France". Retailer's label at inside side seam: "Neiman-Marcus" B) Dress: Knee length dress; bodice of black wool gauze with jewel neckline; sleeveless; lapped centerfront opening with four round self-covered buttons and bound buttonholes supplemented by single snap and hook & eye; bodice gathers into seam at natural waistline; gathered hip yoke of same gauze; straight skirt of matching herringbone has three snaps at centerfront opening; folded hem; gauze is lined in black silk organdy; skirt is unlined.
Ensemble consisting of a nightgown and robe of cream or pale peach nylon. Full-length robe with short sleeves and limp ruff collar. Opens down center front with hook-and-eye closure at waist and attached belt. Matching full-length nightgown is sleeveless, with wide straps. Nightgown opens at side with hook-and-eye closures and has string belt. Both pieces of the ensemble are fully accordion pleated on all parts. Robe has tag "Vanity Fair Nylon"
Evening dress of pale champagne silk chiffon crepe; fitted bodice of silk chiffon with silk satin ribbon trim, and vertical stripes which go down to hem of skirt. Silk satin ribbon forms a V from center-front bodice and wraps over shoulders to back of dress. Ribbon bow at center back falls to middle of skirt and hides a zipper and hook&eye closure. Bodice has interior support with boning and petersham. Mid-length skirt has many layers of chiffon creating a full appearance; skirt is lined in matching silk. Designer's label at left side seam: "Galanos" Retailer's label on lining at bottom of back skirt seam: "Neiman-Marcus"
Evening gown of heavily beaded beige silk satin. The bodice of the full-length gown has an empire waist, a wide scoop neckline, and is sleeveless. It has princess seaming, and internal boning at center front of the neckline. The skirt has fullness from the widening of the panels. The skirt and lower part of the bodice are beaded with floral/foliate forms in pinks, browns, yellows, clear and iridescent beads. The upper part of the bodice, in a deep band around neckline, back, and straps, is totally covered in iridescent sequins, beaded flower heads in bronze/brown and clear beads. The bodice is lined and has internal structures to help support and give form to the gown. The skirt is lined with stiff netting, and has an internal attached net crinoline. The gown has a center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at top. There are no labels in the garment.
Evening gown of tobacco brown floral embroidered tulle embellished with sequins. Tulip or "mermaid" style full-length gown has spaghetti straps trimmed in single row of sequins and structured bodice. Empire waist. Center back zipper. Silk lining/attached slip. Cream grosgrain ribbon petersham at empire waist with two hook & eye closures. Stiffened at hem with matching tulle netting and horizontal bands of horsehair. Single label in gown with retailer and designer: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell", with "Dallas" in lower case.
Evening gown of black satin. Full length; skirt flares slightly. Fitted bodice with low neckline and 1" shoulder straps. Off-center front closure with six satin covered buttons reinforced with two snaps at the neckline and a hook & eye at the center of the opening; bound buttonholes. . Petersham of black, 1" grosgrain ribbon; unlined. Combined designer/manufacturer/retailer label at center back neckline: "Designed in America by / Jacques Fath / for Joseph Halpert / Neiman-Marcus"
Evening gown and stole of silk satin; 2 sided fabric. Gown of deep red silk satin; sleeveless; sheath; large bow draped over right shoulder; fitted skirt; flounce from side seam creates half-circle; 2 self covered button accents; inner hem has horsehair braid and netting for structure; With stole of silk satin; deep red and dark blue; floor length; connected to make slight armholes.
Pair of slip-on evening pumps. Grey/green leather sole with clear vinyl upper, the upper trimmed at vamp with a 4-row band of rhinestones. Spike- or stiletto-style heels formed of clear Lucite embossed with vertical bands of foliate forms and with metal heel-cap. Blind-stamped into sole at ball of feet: "80 M 6641 / 3218-V678". Right shoe stamped: "Joléne / Hollywood Inspired / Made in U.S.A." The Joléne Hollywood Inspired brand/label was manufactured by the Tober-Saifer Shoe Manufacturing Company of St. Louis.
Pair of red satin evening shoes. The deep red shoes have pointed toes and 3 1/2" stiletto heels which are lacquered red with tiny white dots and embellished all-over with rhinestones. Marked on sole: "6 / 1/2 / B / 05" and "Made in Italy". Label inside right shoe: "Vaccari / Italy Bologna". Stamped inside left shoe: "Made in Italy for / Neiman Marcus"
Folding fan. Plain shaped wooden sticks and guards. Leaf of cream paper with thin border of brown. On the leaf are three printed vignettes: 1) view of a street through an archway, titled "Calle de Cuchilleros"; 2) View of the exterior of a church/mission, titled "San Antonio de la Florida"; 3) Scene of a bear shaking a tree, entitled "Madrid". Maker's stamp on back of leaf at guard: "Casa de Diego" Created between 1950 and 1986.
Folding-style fan with molded plastic sticks and guards and printed paper leaf. "U" shaped bail ring at bottom. Leaf is printed on one side: "Neiman Marcus - Fashion Exposition / Sept 1950 / Dallas _ Texas".
Original fashion design by Lilli Wolff. Possibly for a festival gown, design for a female figure with tiered full skirted dress. Believed to have been done between 1945 and 1960, most likely in Dallas, Texas.
Original sketch for a fashion design by Lilli Wolff. Female figure with dress in shades of blue, with swatches attached to mount, and penciled notations. Believed to have been done in the United States after 1950.
Original fashion design by Lilli Wolff. Possibly for a festival gown, design for a female figure with yellow full skirted dress. Various penciled notes and two penciled variations for the skirt design. Believed to have been done between 1945 and 1960, most likely in Dallas, Texas.
Jockey cap of navy felt. Hemispherical crown formed of 6 triangular segments. At top of crown is a small green enameled "apple" shaped charm, one green enameled spherical bead, and one orange enameled bead. At front of cap is crescent-shaped bill with inner wired edge. Cap is unlined. No labels in cap.
Calotte style hat of black felt with rolled under brim. Cluster of back feathers along brim covered by black veil. Small bow of self. Stamp on inside crown: "100% Wool / Glenover / Henry Pollak, Inc. / New York"
Hat of off-white cord-work. Constructed on a stiffed base of off-white mesh, the crown is styled as a modified, over-sized pillbox, with a shallow domed shape. The crown is entirely covered in cord-work and knit ribbon of off-white, forming a dense ground. At top of crown is a finial composed of beige flattened spheroid shapes attached to cords. The hat is unlined, and has a beige grosgrain ribbon inner hatband, with two small plastic combs to help secure hat to wearer's head. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus"
Hat of sherry black straw (artificial?). Crown is flat-topped and cylindrical. The brim is turned up against the sides of the crown, and has a textured black vinyl bow applied at front. The hat is unlined, with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label: "Gladys & Belle / 20 West 57th St. New York"
Beanie style cap of medium brown vicuna wool. Eight panel cap is accented with a stylized bow of self at the peak of the crown. Tan grosgrain sweatband. Lined in dark olive green silk faille. Retailer's label stitched inside center back, over sweatband: "A. Harris & Co. / Shop of Originals"
Hat of black raw silk. Pillbox style crown has spiral wrapped fabric of same on top. Three hair combs inside on black grosgrain ribbon headband. Lined in light gold fabric. Retailer's label on inside crown: "Neiman-Marcus / Made to Order"
Hat of mauve and burgundy velvet flowers with brown silk flowers at crown. Gold rhinestones accent the green velveteen leaves at brim and the silk flowers at crown. Lined in lace with cream colored grosgrain ribbon inner headband.
Hat of fine dark blue straw. Styled somewhat as a "sailor hat", the low, slightly domed crown is encircled by a band of matching dark blue grosgrain ribbon, with a shell-shaped decoration of the same ribbon at front left. The narrow brim is basically flat, with a slight rolled edge. The hat is unlined, with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Retailer's label: "Seidenbach's / Tulsa, Oklahoma"
Hat of hot pink felt and artificial flowers. The low, cylindrical crown has a very shallow conical top, and a very narrow band of same felt around base, which ties at bow at back. The shallow brim, of the same felt, is slightly "wavy" at outer edge, and turns down slightly. Around the base of the crown, extending almost to, and in some cases past, the edge of the brim is a wreath of artificial flowers, pink roses, green and pink buds, etc., with green net veiling. Wreath covers front and sides of hat, leaving back uncovered. Hat is unlined, with a coral pink inner hatband of grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label: "Lecie / Original" Size label: "22"
Hat of reddish-pink wool. The derby style hat has a domed crown made of four sections of cloth that meet at center. Each section has chevrons of stitching, which point towards the center of the crown, giving a subtle quilted effect. Narrow brim rolls upwards at sides and back. A black suede(?) bow is applied to base of crown at center left. Inside base of crown is a band of pink grosgrain ribbon. Sewn to inner ribbon band is maker's label: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris" and label "Made in France"
Hat in the form of a modified turban. The slightly flattened conical crown is flat across the top, with a roll at top and bottom. The lower brim gently undulates, forming lower areas at sides. The whole is covered in gold braid, spirals of black and gold ribbon, various colored rhinestones and blue/green/opalescent beads. The hat is lined in black satin(?), with black grosgrain inner hatband. Designer's label sewn into crown: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York"
Hat of royal blue velveteen felt. Somewhat in the cloche style, the hat consists of a cylindrical crown tapering slightly to the flat top. The sides of the hat are covered in a wide band of same fabric which wraps around hat and secures in a giant square buckle covered in same fabric. Hat is unlined, with black grosgrain inner hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hazel Eller - Custom Made" Stamped inside crown: "Borsalino / Antica Casa"
Hat made from white straw. The high, cylindrical, slightly domed crown flares out slightly at bottom into an asymmetrical brim. The hat is composed of bands of 10 strands of straw that are twined and platted and woven into shape. Decorating the hat are applied small 4-petaled silk flowers placed all over. At side is a thin bow of white grosgrain ribbon. Unlined, but with an inner white grosgrain ribbon hatband. Sewn into the inner ribbon band is retailer's label, "Saks Fifth Avenue / Millinery Salon". Sewn to the back of the retailer's label is a Union Label, #DB 995583
Hat of brown fur and leather. The cylindrical light brown leather crown is encircled by large open circular band of brown fur (mink?) oriented to create diagonal stripes. At base of crown is band of same leather, tied into flat bow at back with trailing ends. Lined in reddish/brown lace, and with two small combs to secure to wearer's head. No labels in hat.
Hat of emerald green velvet and artificial flowers. The hat is styled somewhat as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), with velvet covered domed crown and slightly shaped front edge. The front and sides of the hat are covered in 6 large white silk and velvet roses; the back is covered with overlapping green artificial leaves. Overlaid with green net veil. Hat is lined in white mesh, with inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband. No labels.
Hat of natural tan straw "lace". The low, domed crown is made of straw/fine wicker that has been worked as lace, in net and with various elements. At front the crown extends out in an undulating brim. Mounted at the base of the crown, on the front brim, is a large pink artificial rose with green leaves. Unlined, the hat has a black cord to help secure it to the wearer's head. Designer's label inside: "Paris / Molli / New York"
Hat of dark muted purple straw. The high crown is canted back at an angle, and has a slight rim around upper edge. Around the crown is wrapped a wide band of gathered off-white organza, which covers the entire side of the crown. The brim is of the same woven straw, with a rolled edge. It turns down at front and up at back. The inside of the crown is lined in a dark blue fine-mesh netting, and there is a dark blue grosgrain inner hatband around the lower inside edge of the crown. Sewn to the inside of the crown is a large retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Custom Made"; a smaller label is sewn to the inner hatband: "Made in France for / Neiman-Marcus".
Hat of yellow straw. The hemispherical crown is of woven yellow straw, around the base of which is tied a yellow grosgrain ribbon with ends trailing off of the back of the hat. The wide brim is curved up along sides and front, and flat at back. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of yellow grosgrain ribbon at inside base of crown. Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus".
Hat of red straw. Conical crown is of woven red straw, with a flattened top. The wide, floppy brim is of matching straw, constructed as a separate piece, sewn to the crown. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon inside base of crown. A black cord is attached to either side at inner hatband to help secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc." Price tag affixed to inner band: "75 [cents symbol]"
Hat of gray fur felt. The low, rounded crown is made of gray beaver(?) fur felt over a structure of woven straw. Brim is of same felt, and appears narrow in front, but rolls under and extends back under crown. At sides and back, brim curves upwards, and then back downwards to extend under crown. Along sides and back of crown is section of gray grosgrain ribbon which projects through the upturned brim at back and becomes a large bow with trailing ends. There is an inner hatband of gray grosgrain ribbon around the edges of the brim where they meet the inside base of the crown. Attached to the inner hatband is an elasticized cord to secure hat to wearer's head, and attached to the front brim underside is a plastic comb to secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Legroux Soeurs / 4 Rue Cambon Paris / Made in France".
Hat of rust colored straw with curved brim wider in front and rolled in back. Green velvet ribbon trim. Tucked crown & tan silk lined brim. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Paris / Molli / New York"
Calotte-style hat of light brown velvet. Beige and red feathers as trim on front brim and bow of self on back. Lined in golden yellow satin with grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Small stitched mark on band showing front of hat. Designer's Label: "Hattie Carnegie" Retailer's Label: "Neiman-Marcus / Salon"
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