Traditional Philippine terno ensemble of gold silk and mesh made from rengue, a stiff pineapple fiber material. A) Skirt (Saya) of stiffened gold silk with black lined embroidered circles and wavy black ribbon embellishment. Full-length, with long rectangular train in back. B) Top (camisa) of mesh pineapple fiber. Cropped-length, with wide, full, elbow-length sleeves gathered at armholes. Sleeves with circular embellishments. C) Chemise of pale orange rayon with cutwork and machine embroidery hem and neckline. Sleeveless, full-length. D) Scarf/fichu (alampay) or shawl (Panuelo) of mesh pineapple fiber with circular embellishments.
Shirt of red rayon, designed as a kimono. Black band at front opening and around neckline, with white Japanese characters printed on upper section at front. The kimono has a scene of a procession by children in traditional Japanese clothing, one on horseback. At upper back is a circular printed Mon in blue and white of a trefoil leaf form. Unlined. May be a child's kimono rather than a youth's shirt.
Child's shirt of pink rayon. Designed as a kimono, the shirt has a black band at center front opening which continues along neckline. The body of the garment is printed with multi-colored views of Japanese temples and landscapes. Maker's label inside: "Crown / Made in Japan" Size label: "M / Made in / " [cut off] This may be a child's kimono for the tourist market, rather than a youth's shirt.
Hat made from white straw. The high, cylindrical, slightly domed crown flares out slightly at bottom into an asymmetrical brim. The hat is composed of bands of 10 strands of straw that are twined and platted and woven into shape. Decorating the hat are applied small 4-petaled silk flowers placed all over. At side is a thin bow of white grosgrain ribbon. Unlined, but with an inner white grosgrain ribbon hatband. Sewn into the inner ribbon band is retailer's label, "Saks Fifth Avenue / Millinery Salon". Sewn to the back of the retailer's label is a Union Label, #DB 995583
Pillbox hat of woven green ribbon-like paper. The pillbox hat has a low, slightly "dimpled" crown, and is formed of woven green paper ribbon in various widths. Lower edge is turned up and folded over. At back is a flat bow of same material. Hat is unlined, with pale green grosgrain ribbon along inside lower edge as inner hatband. Attached to either side at inner hatband is a small plastic comb to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label inside at back: "Sue Dooley / Dallas"
Pillbox hat of brown woven ribbon-like paper with a lustrous finish. The shallow cylindrical crown is slightly concave at top, and has a slightly undulating lower edge. Hat is lined with a printed fabric with Asian-style scene of bamboo and birds, edged with tan/beige grosgrain ribbon, and a band of gold rickrack. Attached at each side at inner edge is a small plastic comb to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label inside at back: "Sue Dooley / Dallas"
Kutchi Dress of the Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan. Full-length. Bodice of various fabrics and embellishments. Rounded neckline with slight standing/band collar of primarily yellow bead-work with blue bead squares containing red bead centers. "Collar" below neckline of pendant silver-colored coins. Shoulder areas of purple with primarily yellow stitching forming scroll-work. Front "bib" of dark red outlined with same bead-work as neckline, and sewn with 9 horizontal rows of green tear-drop shaped beads and a line of silver-colored coins. Center part of bodice of black fabric with all-over red reflective circles. Wide "waist" of dress with geometric bead-work band of white, green, red, blue, and orange, with band of small circular mirrors and two lower borders of fringe tipped with white and green beads, and lowest border of coins. Sleeves of dark green velvet with bands of rickrack of silver and gold, and stitching matching the shoulder areas. Edged with bead-work and with row of silver-colored coins. Skirt is full-length, and full, and is of dark blue/black fabric printed with white and grey pattern of small flower blossoms, paisley shapes, dots, leaves, etc. Hem of dress with wide embroidered band, upper section with horizontal band of squares of various colors (reddish, green, orange, pale green, purple), center band of yellow, and lower band of reddish/magenta. Unlined. No labels or tags.
Hat of royal blue velveteen felt. Somewhat in the cloche style, the hat consists of a cylindrical crown tapering slightly to the flat top. The sides of the hat are covered in a wide band of same fabric which wraps around hat and secures in a giant square buckle covered in same fabric. Hat is unlined, with black grosgrain inner hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hazel Eller - Custom Made" Stamped inside crown: "Borsalino / Antica Casa"
Hat of straw and velvet. The short, cylindrical crown is of woven natural-colored straw, with off-center "peak". The crown is edged along top with a narrow band of orange velvet. The sides of the crown are covered in black velvet, and there is an inner band of black velvet-covered straw that extends below the sides of the crown. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. On the band, a small sewn start designates the front of the hat. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Custom Made", and with a (later?) price tag attached. Accompanied by a short hatpin, the head covered with woven straw matching the hat.
Folding fan. Plain shaped wooden sticks and guards. Leaf of cream paper with thin border of brown. On the leaf are three printed vignettes: 1) view of a street through an archway, titled "Calle de Cuchilleros"; 2) View of the exterior of a church/mission, titled "San Antonio de la Florida"; 3) Scene of a bear shaking a tree, entitled "Madrid". Maker's stamp on back of leaf at guard: "Casa de Diego" Created between 1950 and 1986.
Pillbox hat of straw/raffia. The crown of the pillbox is of natural-colored straw/raffia, domed and with rounded edges, having a sloping back on which there is an applied bow of matching straw/raffia. The lower edge of the crown turns under and into the crown. Hat is lined in brownish/golden satin, and has an inner woven straw/raffia hatband. Inner buckram frame/base. Label sewn inside: "Saks Fifth Avenue / Millinery Salon"
Cloche hat of fine light brown/tan straw. The domed crown of straw has a looped segment of woven straw "ribbon" attached at side, with trailing ends. The irregular brim, woven in one piece with crown, has an asymmetrical crease at side. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of off-white grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "John Frederics 'Charmer'".
Small picture hat of straw. The fine, natural color straw crown is domed, and encircled by a band of beige grosgrain ribbon at its base. The ribbon has a bow at the front. The wide, oval brim is set off-center to the crown, and is edged with the same beige grosgrain ribbon. The brim has two "V" cuts into it at front, forming projecting "saw teeth". At the base of each "V" cut, on top and underneath brim, is a bow of the same grosgrain ribbon. The hat is unlined, and there is an inner hatband of beige grosgrain ribbon. Label sewn to inner hatband: "Henrys / Dallas". Henrys has been identified alternately as maker or retailer.
Hatlet of blue gray feathers. The crown is formed as a partly curved bird's wing, enclosed at back and arcing across the head from ear to ear. The back part of the hat is of fine feathers, closely set, while the front of the hat is made of long feathers set parallel, pointing towards the front of the hat. The under-structure is wired to retain its shape, and the crown is edged with a blue gray grosgrain ribbon and lined with blue fabric. At front of hat is a pale blue gray netting veil with scattered crystals. A black elastic cord is attached to the inner sides of the hat to help secure it to the wearer's head. Maker's label sewn inside crown at back edge: "L and B / Karo / New York"
Picture hat. The domed crown is of navy blue twill, with a navy blue grosgrain ribbon band tied at base of crown, with bow at back with trailing ribbons. At front of crown is a second bow of stylized foliate form, created out of stiffened rolled twill or grosgrain, with two red straw cylindrical "buds" extending upwards. The wide, down-turned brim is of red straw. Inside crown is navy blue grosgrain ribbon hatband. Sewn to inner ribbon band is label: "Henry's / Originals / Dallas"
Small straw picture hat. Low domed crown of a dark/purple woven straw. Wide, down-turned brim of same material starts high on the crown, and is edged in black velvet. At the back of the hat, starting at top of brim, is an applied spray of artificial daisies and leaves in green fabric, with black velvet bow. Unlined. Inside, at base of crown, is brown/purple grosgrain ribbon headband. Label sewn to inner hatband: "Henrys / Dallas" Henrys has been identified alternately as maker or retailer. Gift of Mr. Ian Dellar.
Small picture hat of black straw. The domed black straw crown is edged in black velvet ribbon and is surmounted by a "starburst" of pleated black grosgrain fabric with a vertically projecting "tab" of grosgrain ribbon backed with black velvet. The matching straw brim is circular along the front 2/3 of the hat, and then "cut back" along the back 1/2, forming two slight corners at sides. The brim is edged in black velvet ribbon. The crown has an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Label sewn to inner hatband: "Henrys / Dallas". Henrys has been identified alternately as maker or retailer. Accompanied by a single short hatpin with simulated black pearl head.
Hatlet of deep red satin. The close, curved crown is formed as a band that is worn across the wearer's head from ear to ear. The band is edged with a wide band of narrow pleated deep red satin, with ends that extend beyond the crown, forming crossed ends at sides. Lined in the same deep red satin, and with a deep red grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label: "Amy New York"
Turban style hat of pale pink velvet with braided pink velvet around edge. Two iridescent rhinestone and faceted jewel pins trim front. Lined in pink net. Two combs at sides for securing hat to wearer's head. Maker's label on inside back of hat: "An Original / Mr. Stanley / New York"
Hat of hot pink felt and artificial flowers. The low, cylindrical crown has a very shallow conical top, and a very narrow band of same felt around base, which ties at bow at back. The shallow brim, of the same felt, is slightly "wavy" at outer edge, and turns down slightly. Around the base of the crown, extending almost to, and in some cases past, the edge of the brim is a wreath of artificial flowers, pink roses, green and pink buds, etc., with green net veiling. Wreath covers front and sides of hat, leaving back uncovered. Hat is unlined, with a coral pink inner hatband of grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label: "Lecie / Original" Size label: "22"
Navy blue two-piece skirt suit of wool consisting of: A. Fitted jacket with Peter Pan collar. Tab at top of jacket under neck extends two inches past center and buttons on left side with two round buttons. Jacket center opening has one hook at center and one button at waist. Full-length sleeves made in one piece with jacket front and back. Gusset under arm for ease of movement. Right sleeve is decorated with blue and grey stripe pattern which extends up sleeve and across onto tab. Vertical stripe starts from back waist and runs down front, forming plaid at shoulder and is gathered into a narrow band at waist. Stripe continues to hem of jacket and has fold of striped fabric coming from under band to form scarf-like effect. Back is made in 6 sections with plaid design at shoulder and stripes running horizontally and vertically and ending before the absolute center. Band at waist is continued on back right, but does not reach jacket center. Inside lined with blue silk. Designer's label at center back inside neck: "Adrian / Original" Retailer's label along left inside flap of opening: "The Fashion / Ben Wolfman Inc. / Houston" Label for original owner(?): "TJ McBryde" B: Blue straight skirt with hook and snap closure at left side of waistband and zipper fly. Grey stripe pattern starts at hip area and continues around skirt, not meeting at back center. Vertical stripes fall from right side, forming plaid at intersection of other stripe, and continues to hem. Front center has kick pleat. Skirt does not have label.
Hat of mauve and burgundy velvet flowers with brown silk flowers at crown. Gold rhinestones accent the green velveteen leaves at brim and the silk flowers at crown. Lined in lace with cream colored grosgrain ribbon inner headband.
Hat of fine dark blue straw. Styled somewhat as a "sailor hat", the low, slightly domed crown is encircled by a band of matching dark blue grosgrain ribbon, with a shell-shaped decoration of the same ribbon at front left. The narrow brim is basically flat, with a slight rolled edge. The hat is unlined, with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Retailer's label: "Seidenbach's / Tulsa, Oklahoma"
Calotte style hat of pale olive green felt with multicolored pheasant feathers on the left front. Double rolls of same felt form edge of hat which cross at front where meets feather trim. Net veil on front. Two hatpins with heads of matching felt. Unlined with inner headband of light gray/green grosgrain ribbon. Maker's label on inside inner headband: "Frances / Dallas, Texas" Paper tag attached to inner headband at back of hat.
Pillbox hat of light brown mink. The low, circular crown is made of mink tails arranged in a pinwheel design, radiating from center of the flat top of the crown. Lined in mesh and a brocade floral fabric. Inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. No labels in garment.
Pair of shoes of polished beige leather. Designed in a modified Oxford style, the shoes have a rounded toe, and rows of decorative holes punched across vamp and around edge of upper, between brown stitching. A strap crosses at ankle to secure shoes to wearer's foot. High stacked heel of dark brown tapers slightly to base. Partly illegible stamp on underside of shoe, includes "Made in Italy".
Beanie style cap of medium brown vicuna wool. Eight panel cap is accented with a stylized bow of self at the peak of the crown. Tan grosgrain sweatband. Lined in dark olive green silk faille. Retailer's label stitched inside center back, over sweatband: "A. Harris & Co. / Shop of Originals"
Pillbox hat of brown fur. The pillbox crown is formed of a cylinder of brown fur. Lined with metallic weave fabric with stripes of red, green, gold metallic, edged with brown grosgrain ribbon and with a band of gold rickrack. At each side, attached to inner band, is a small plastic comb to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label at inside back edge: "Sue Dooley / Dallas"
Calotte style hat of black felt with rolled under brim. Cluster of back feathers along brim covered by black veil. Small bow of self. Stamp on inside crown: "100% Wool / Glenover / Henry Pollak, Inc. / New York"
Pillbox style hat of pink silk gabardine. Four horizontal pleats around front of brim form zigzag folds at sides. Slightly rounded top. Center back has hanging tab ending in tie bow of self. 2-1/4'' deep crown CF; 3 1/2'' deep CB. Lined in white silk with pink grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Two combs at sides for securing hat to wearer's head. Maker's label hand embroidered on inside crown: "Jo Bailey Hats"
Hat of sherry black straw (artificial?). Crown is flat-topped and cylindrical. The brim is turned up against the sides of the crown, and has a textured black vinyl bow applied at front. The hat is unlined, with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label: "Gladys & Belle / 20 West 57th St. New York"
Calotte of black straw and black velvet. The calotte (also spelled "calot") has a low, domed black velvet crown overlaid with a "pinwheel" made of large woven black straw triangles. At top of crown is a maroon velvet cord knot. Hat is lined in dark blue, with a dark blue/black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label: "Sally V / Designed by Sally Victor" Retailer's label: "Titche-Goettinger Co / Dallas"
Evening gown and stole of silk satin; 2 sided fabric. Gown of deep red silk satin; sleeveless; sheath; large bow draped over right shoulder; fitted skirt; flounce from side seam creates half-circle; 2 self covered button accents; inner hem has horsehair braid and netting for structure; With stole of silk satin; deep red and dark blue; floor length; connected to make slight armholes.
Pillbox hat of bright pink straw with flower-like decoration of white iridescent petal shaped paillettes, 3 rhinestones and pearl center with white chenille stem held in place by small bow of self. Two grosgrain covered wire loops at sides to secure hat to head. Pink veil. Designer's label on inside hatband: "JR / Janyth Roy / New York"
Pillbox hat of fine brown straw. Cylindrical crown has inset, slightly domed top created by having an inner pillbox hat of same design. Lower edge of crown is gently scalloped and edged in brown grosgrain ribbon. Hat has fine brown veiling attached between crown of inner and outer hats, around sides and front of hat, and two pearl-headed pins at sides. Lined in black fabric and edged with brown grosgrain ribbon. Small applied cream ribbon bow on inner ribbon indicates back of hat. Designer's label inside: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York". Label is so large that part of the word "Paris" and part of "York" are cut-off.
Hat of red straw. Conical crown is of woven red straw, with a flattened top. The wide, floppy brim is of matching straw, constructed as a separate piece, sewn to the crown. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon inside base of crown. A black cord is attached to either side at inner hatband to help secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc." Price tag affixed to inner band: "75 [cents symbol]"
Calotte style hat of brown straw cloth with brown veil. Left brim of hat circles to form a loop that folds under the right side of the hat. Designer's label with two set in rhinestones on inside of crown: "John Fredericks / New York" Vertical portion of designer's label: "Made in America"
Turban of pleated brown wool jersey. The high-crowned turban is composed of pleated concentric bands of fabric. The hat is lined in mesh covered with cream/pale yellow silk, and with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. A stitched mark on headband shows front of hat, and small applied ribbon bow shows back. Designer's label inside crown: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York". Label is large, almost reaching from headband to headband across inside of crown.
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