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A) Dress of deep blue and orange silk with multi-colored embroidered flowers and squares. Full-length deep blue silk dress with rounded neckline which is edged in gold and with band of square embroidered blocks of color, red, green, blue, white, extending down front in "keyhole". Square "bib" on front and back of orange silk, with border of embroidered flowers of red, blue, and white, and leaves of yellow, with gold embroidered vines and outlining. 3/4 or longer sleeves, with orange panels on upper arms to elbows, with embroidery matching bib. Cuffs with embroidered squares matching neckline. Dress has added gores at sides of orange silk which create a slight A-line. Lower part of dress embroidered with: tall vertical obelisk forms in gold with squares of red, blue, white, green, and "foliate forms" embroidery; Tall bands of large embroidered flower heads and leaves matching bib, but enlarged; Flowers and vines in red, white, yellow, green, blue, etc. Back of dress with same decoration as front, bib is shorter. Vertical closure at neckline, with single hook-and-loop at neckline. Unlined. Sewn-in shoulder pads covered with matching orange silk. b ) Headpiece c ) Necklace - bronze alloy with carnelian stones - Tubular with pendants d ) Necklace - bronze alloy with carnelian stones - Rectangular plaque with pendants

Ensemble consisting of jacket, blouse, skirt, belt and hat.

Evening gown and stole of silk satin.

Two-piece gray faille moire wool and nylon suit. Jacket is long, with wide notched collar, is double breasted, has bound button holes, and buttons below waist. It has a sculptural double-breasted front panel, that maintains a vertical linear center front, rounded shape visually flanks stomach area. The skirt is straight; slightly below knee length.

(At Left) Evening ensemble of brown silk shantung. The camisole is sleeveless, with a boat neckline. Center back closure with 10 small circular buttons covered with matching fabric. The blouse is lined in dark brown silk, and has an inner structure of net and metal boning. The understructure extends below the top to give structure to the skirt. The inner net and boning layer has a center back closure of 14 hook-and-eyes, matching along same line as outer closure. The skirt is of matching materials, A-line, below-the-knee length. It has a 2" waistband decorated with horizontal ruching. Center-back zipper closure with two hook-and-eyes in waistband. The skirt has an attached black rayon gorgette underslip, and an attached black nylon petticoat. The petticoat has a horsehair braid incorporated in the hem for stiffening. The matching swing coat is calf length, with a rolled collar and short sleeves. It is constructed with several layers of organza for structure and a tuck panel around the coat for decoration and flounce. Lined in brown silk. There are no labels in the garment. Photograph is from the exhibition "Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers", held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows suit as displayed.

Ensemble in black and oatmeal colored wool, consisting of: A) Jacket: Semi-fitted wool in abstracted herringbone weave with black and oatmeal yarns running double throughout; moderately rounded neckline with asymmetrical mandarin collar; full-length raglan sleeves with overarm seam and undersleeve; double breasted front opening with eight round, plastic, oatmeal colored buttons and four bound buttonholes supplemented by single hook & eye inside lap at waist; vertical welt pockets on front lined in black silk; fully lined in black silk. Designer's label at inside collar: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris" and "Made in France". Retailer's label at inside side seam: "Neiman-Marcus" B) Dress: Knee length dress; bodice of black wool gauze with jewel neckline; sleeveless; lapped center front opening with four round self-covered buttons and bound buttonholes supplemented by single snap and hook & eye; bodice gathers into seam at natural waistline; gathered hip yoke of same gauze; straight skirt of matching herringbone has three snaps at center front opening; folded hem; gauze is lined in black silk organdy; skirt is unlined.

Cocktail dress of fuschia (cranberry) silk with black feather print; bodice has round neckline and three-quarter length sleeves; skirt is knee-length and very full, gathered at waist and covered by a short piece of self fabric.

Evening ensemble consisting of gold brocade evening gown trimmed in white mink with matching coat and detachable train. A) Evening coat of gold brocade. Ballerina length with short, dolman sleeves. Banded neckline. Center front opening is cutaway in front below waist and tapers to hem. Lined in gold metallic organdy. B) Evening dress of gold brocade with white mink fur trim at the neckline and hips. Full length with princess seaming and slight A-line to skirt. Scooped back. Fur trim around neckline and back goes over shoulders to form straps of dress. Center back zipper. Belt of fur at hips closes in back the 3 covered hook & eyes. Skirt lined in white tulle. Bodice is boned and lined in white netting and closes in back with hook & eyes. Designer's Label: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris" Model label behind designer's label: "74184" C) Detachable train of gold brocade. Train is rectangular in shape and gathers into smocking where it attaches to back of dress with snaps and hook & eyes. Floor length. Unlined.

Ball gown of pink silk taffeta. The off-the-shoulder design has several layers of cream colored Chantilly lace around the neckline/shoulder edge. The dress itself is of bright fuchsia pink silk taffeta with ties over each arm. The bodice is seamed and fitted, with a left side seam zipper. The attached matching taffeta skirt is gathered and draped horizontally, and has several layers of Chantilly lace at hem. The skirt has three hoops under the lining.

Charcoal gray wool two-piece suit. a) Jacket: Fitted jacket of gray diamond twill wool; V-neckline with notched collar and peaked lapels; full-length, two piece, set in sleeves; lapped center front opening with two round, black, plastic buttons and bound buttonholes with snaps between buttons; fronts have shoulder and waist darts; two pairs of faux pocket flaps with buttons on fronts at bust and hip; back has low-slung, self fabric belt buttoned on above two faux vents at hem; fully lined in gray silk. b) Skirt: Matching princess line, knee length skirt with narrow rolled waistband; straight hip yoke all around; inverted box pleat falls from yoke at center back; offset left side back zipper closure supplemented by one hook&eye closure on waistband; hem is faced with gray silk; fully lined in gray silk.

Ensemble. A) Brown sheath dress of lace with floral motif, heavily hand beaded with tiny brown beads. Mid-length, scooped neckline, deeper in back. Sleeveless, with narrow straps. Slightly shaped hem. Inner brown satin lining sheath. Design house's label inside: "Mingolini Gugenheim / Piazza di Spagna 9-91- Roma" B) Brown sheer organza coat, mid-length, shawl collar, center front opening fastened by belt. mid-length sleeves. Leather belt built into waistline, covered with organza, the hook buckles covered in brown beading as dress.

Pillbox hat of black straw. The low, cylindrical crown of black woven straw has a flat top, slightly recessed, forming a ridge around outer edge. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus"

Pillbox hat of off-white straw and dark taupe twill trim. The short, cylindrical crown is woven of wide off-white straw, edged with a wide band of twill ribbon of dark taupe. Inside crown is inner hatband of brown grosgrain ribbon. Attached to the inner band are two small plastic combs to secure hat to wearer's head. No labels in item. Accompanied by a short hatpin with brown wood(?) head.

Pillbox hat of beaded straw. The modified pillbox hat has a cylindrical crown of white straw embellished with tiny white beads sewn on in an all-over foliate design. Within the crown is an inner woven structure which extends slightly below the edge of the crown, having the effect of raising the hat slightly off of the head and giving space around it. The inner structure has an inner hatband of red grosgrain ribbon, and a white felt-covered wired structure to help secure the hat to the wearer's head. Label inside crown: "Marché Exclusive"

Hat of white straw and navy blue/black embroidery appliques. The domed crown is of finely woven white straw. The narrow brim turns up at the edges, somewhat irregularly, and is edged in dark navy blue/black embroidery appliques that cover upper and lower parts of the brim. The inside of the crown has a dark navy blue/black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hazel Eller - Custom Made". Accompanied by two short hat-pins, one with a head covered in matching straw, the other with a simulated pearl head.

Hatlet of straw and velvet.

Folding-style fan with molded plastic sticks and guards and printed paper leaf. "U" shaped bail ring at bottom. Leaf is printed on one side: "Neiman Marcus - Fashion Exposition / Sept 1950 / Dallas _ Texas".

Folding fan. Plain shaped wooden sticks and guards. Leaf of cream paper with thin border of brown. On the leaf are three printed vignettes: 1) view of a street through an archway, titled "Calle de Cuchilleros"; 2) View of the exterior of a church/mission, titled "San Antonio de la Florida"; 3) Scene of a bear shaking a tree, entitled "Madrid".

Toque of off-white artificial straw. The toque, formed as a low cap, has a flattened circular crown of artificial(?) off-white woven straw, which is divided into 4 unequal segments by two bands of crossing yellow velvet ribbon. At the front, where the bands of ribbon turn under to the brim are affixed two sprays of artificial flowers. The base of the crown bends under and out and back in to form a tiny brim. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of off-white grosgrain ribbon around inside base of crown. Inside the hat, one at either side, are triangular wire pieces covered in matching yellow velvet ribbon to help secure the hat to wearer's head. Affixed to the inner hatband is a black elastic cord to help secure the hat to wearer's head. Sewn inside crown is maker's label: "Marion Vallé / New York". The hat is accompanied by a short hatpin, the head covered in yellow velvet to match the ribbon.

Day dress of gray/white print silk taffeta. Street- or tea-length, of paper silk taffeta printed with a dense design of varying sizes of small white polka dots on a gray ground. V-neckline, with bow of self just below point. 3/4 length dolman sleeves. Full skirt, cut for crinoline. Center back zipper. Designer's label: "Traina-Norell / New York"

Day dress in beige pesanté silk. Bias band collar extending into tubular tie with open hemmed ends. Tie graduates for 1/2 inch at center back collar to 4-1/4 inch at ends. Three 1 inch self-covered round buttons at bodice front. Piped button holes and 13 inch hidden zipper below. Bracelet length dolman sleeves. Back yoke. Street length. Two 8-1/2 inch x 8 inch hip patch pockets. Unlined. Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"

Ensemble consisting of a charcoal gray wool tweed coat dress and skirt. A) Street dress of charcoal gray wool tweed. Center front opening with eight large, circular, black plastic buttons and bound buttonholes. Three quarter raglan sleeves. Turndown collar. Yoked shoulders slightly gathered in back. Below knee length. Lined in black silk faille. Retailer's label at inside back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus" B) Skirt with waist panel of black silk and lower panel of charcoal gray wool tweed. Skirt is slightly gathered where waist panel meets lower panel. Overall effect is of a straight skirt. Center back opening with two hook & eyes on waistband as closure. Lower portion of skirt is lined in same black silk as waist panel. Retailer's label on inside center back seam of lining: "Neiman-Marcus"

Hat of natural tan straw "lace". The low, domed crown is made of straw/fine wicker that has been worked as lace, in net and with various elements. At front the crown extends out in an undulating brim. Mounted at the base of the crown, on the front brim, is a large pink artificial rose with green leaves. Unlined, the hat has a black cord to help secure it to the wearer's head. Designer's label inside: "Paris / Molli / New York"

Dress of light weight black wool crepe in shift style. High round neck; sleeveless. Street length. Center front opening to hem with 8 large round buttons of heavy silk threads. Slight fullness achieved by gathering from shoulder yoke. Unlined except at yoke. Combined designer/retailer label at center back seam near hem: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"

Cocktail dress with black, cotton knit bodice and full, chocolate brown silk faille skirt. Bodice has long sleeves with zippered wrists. Center back zipper closure with hook & eye. Stand up, mandarin collar. Bodice forms V at center front, gathered waist. Lined in black organdy with built in petticoats of black tulle. Six inch wide black grosgrain petersham at inner waist with 5 large hook & eyes. Combined designer/retailer label on inside seam of skirt towards hem: "Norman Norell for Neiman-Marcus"

Day dress of blue gray and navy herringbone silk. A) Day dress of blue gray and navy herringbone silk. Shift style. Mid-length with rounded, Peter Pan collar. Bracelet length, dolman sleeves. Center front opening extending from neckline to hips, with 3 self-covered buttons above waist and a zipper with hook & eye. Two large patch pockets at hips. Unlined. Combined retailer/designer label at left side seam of skirt: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell B) Tie/scarf of same fabric. One end wider than other, finishing in triangles. Narrow at center.

Hat of red/orange straw. Constructed of bands of braided straw sewn in a spiral, the crown is a shallow cylinder with inset flattened top, and flares out at base to form the steeply sloped brim. At left side of crown is large applied flat bow of same straw. Unlined, the hat has an inner band of self, partly overlaid with cream velvet as a hatband.

A) Sheath style dress of navy silk with seam line at natural waist. Slightly gathered at sides of waist and tapering to a narrow skirt. Short kimono sleeve with gusset at underarm. Hem of sleeves are coming undone. Jewel neckline. Button closure at center back with six navy plastic buttons. Unlined. Size 12. B) Three inch wide belt of self fabric with self fabric buckle. Belt sits above waistline. Designer label: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina Norell".

Cocktail dress of black wool jersey knit. The late-day dress is of mid-length, with bateau (boat) neckline and short sleeves. Center back zipper with hook & eye at neckline. The fitted torso has a natural waistline with a fitted yoke from natural waist to full hip. Pleated/gathered skirt of black tissue faille begins below yoke and flares to hem. Around the waist is an attached wide faille sash which ties in front forming a bow with trailing ribbons. The bodice of the dress is lined in black and the skirt has a heavy fabric underskirt and two attached layers of net crinoline. Joint designer's and retailer's label sewn inside skirt: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell".

Red silk taffeta dress with print of white line/dashes. A) Cocktail dress of red silk taffeta print. The print is of short white lines/dashes, scattered over the entire garment. Short sleeves, collar with rounded "points". Dropped waist, with a wide panel of same fabric with vertical stitching between bodice and skirt. "Tiered" skirt, with a flounce of same material gathered at bottom of dropped waist and continuing to about knee-level. Skirt gathered at dropped waist, under the flounce. Center front opening with 5 small circular self-covered buttons. Zipper at left side from under arm to dropped waist. Unlined. Inner ivory grosgrain belt/petersham with single hook and eye at left side. Seam where flounce joins skirt reinforced on interior with horsehair band. Combined designer's/retailer's label sewn in skirt: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" B) Thin belt of cream leather covered in matching fabric. Rectangular buckle covered in same fabric. No marks on belt.

Tubular dress of red textured, homespun wool with princess style seams. Tea length. Rounded, jewel neckline. Three-quarter length raglan sleeves with gussets at under arm. Two large patch pockets placed low on hips wrap around side seams. Center front closure with seven red plastic round buttons and bound buttonholes; reinforced at neckline with a snap. Upper portion of dress lined in ivory silk crepe. Retailer label at left inside seam near hem: "Neiman-Marcus"

Evening gown of tobacco brown floral embroidered tulle embellished with sequins. Tulip or "mermaid" style full-length gown has spaghetti straps trimmed in single row of sequins and structured bodice. Empire waist. Center back zipper. Silk lining/attached slip. Cream grosgrain ribbon petersham at empire waist with two hook & eye closures. Stiffened at hem with matching tulle netting and horizontal bands of horsehair. Single label in gown with retailer and designer: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell", with "Dallas" in lower case.

Cape coat of heavy rust mohair.

Cocktail dress of black silk faille and white lawn with black embroidered scallops. Wide boat neckline, short sleeves, natural waistline, princess seaming. Heavy black faille overskirt pleated into waist, cut higher at front to show underskirt of white lawn. Underskirt has horizontal bands of triple lines of scallops, scalloped lower edge of underskirt. Built in hoop understructure with petersham belt and four steel (?) internal hoops. Overlay with petticoat of white cotton with wide horsehair band at hem. Center back zipper.

Cocktail dress of yellow and orange silk chiffon. Fitted bodice of horizontal, loosely pleated yellow chiffon has two orange, horizontal stripes at waist and above. Double, spaghetti style shoulder straps. Inner support with boning and petersham. Skirt is composed of under layers coral pink and yellow silk and outer layers of orange and yellow chiffon, creating a full appearance. Mid-length; zip-back and hook & eye closure. Retailer's label at left side seam: "Neiman-Marcus"

Day dress of red ribbed wool. Squared neckline; 3/4 length sleeves. Set-in waistline with attached 1-1/2" wraparound belt that closes in back with 2 hook & eyes and a snap. Below knee length. Center front opening with 7 hook & eyes on waistband and 7 red, circular, plastic buttons and bound buttonholes below waistband. Lined in red silk; bodice lining is sleeveless with center front zipper closure. Designer's label at right seam of bodice lining: "Automne-Hiver 1953 / Christian Dior / Paris / Made in France" and stamped on designer's label: "36416" Style number label under designer's label, illegible: "--6--4"

Daytime coat of beige linen. Single breasted with three cream colored, circular, plastic buttons and bound buttonholes. Long, raglan sleeves with 4" cuffs. Notched collar. Street length. Side slit pockets. Lined in black silk. Designer's label at inside right seam of lining under arm hole: "Christian Dior / Paris / Made in France"

Ballgown of beaded light blue silk satin. A) Dress: sleeveless, princess-line, flared, full-length evening gown with moderate square neckline. Overlay bodice detail of matching aqua satin. The overbodice has a slightly empire line with side panels extending over the hips. The overbodice is intricately pieced and embellished with cutwork details and beading. The cutwork treatment extends across the wide shoulder straps, down the bodice front and back and then completely covers the side panels. The beading incorporates clear rhinestones with square pillow-shaped studs in varying shades of aqua and turquoise. The beading was based on the tile work incorporated in the Southland Center, Dallas, Texas. The full, flared skirt is tacked into four wide inverted knife pleats down the front and it is asymmetrically pleated across the back. Center back zipper closure to hipline with a single hook&loop at midback neckline. Placket closure secured with one snap and one hook&eye. The skirt is lined with heavy white pellon and has a horsehair reinforced hem. Label located over inside front bustline. B) Petticoat: full-length, gored, ten panel petticoat of iridescent turquoise/aqua silk satin. Narrow waistband with center back placket opening secured with two hook&eyes. Horsehair reinforced hem.

Shirt dress of plaid woven cotton in shades of yellow, brown, black and white on black ground. Street-length. Short sleeves and spread collar, center front opening with 6 buttons, and single hook-and-eye at waist. Buttons are small faceted black plastic(?) collar settings with a clear rhinestone at center. Tie belt at waist, attached at side seams. Skirt is pleated into lower edge of bodice. Unlined.

Maternity dress of black tweed with wide scoop neckline, empire waist and mid-length skirt; short, wide sleeves are gathered into hem underneath sleeve; 1 inch band at empire waist with attached belt at sides that wraps around back with a button closure; mid-length skirt with crescent pockets at sides and box pleat at center-front with buttons of self-fabric down front; zip-back closure; unlined. Designer Label: Page Boy / Dallas

Dinner dress of and green chiffon and net, and black crepe. Sleeveless bodice of green chiffon with wide low scoop neckline. Net overlay on bodice is heavily encrusted with beads and rhinestones. Ankle length narrow black crepe skirt attached at hip line. Harem overskirt of green chiffon has vertical folds/pleats, is open at front, and is lined in black crepe matching skirt. Overskirt can be turned up to form a cape, with armholes, and a single button closure at front throat. Designer's label: "Veneziani / Milano / Made in YTRU"

Dress of aqua and gold metallic brocade; full-length; overskirt draped to create fullness over hips and ending in a small train in back. No designer's label. Attribution based on original N-M tag sewn into inner skirt.

Ensemble. Made from a Japanese Kimono of orange silk with red, cream, and black Ikat design of elongated hexagons. A) Jacket. Formed of upper part of kimono, with Short band collar and wide kimono sleeves. Lined in red. Label sewn inside at collar: "Ryu-Bi Style / Kimono Suite / Made in Tokyo" B) (Not pictured) Skirt. Formed of the lower part of kimono, full-length, wrap style, wide waistband secured with two pairs of hook-and-eyes. Lined as jacket.

Navy blue and white gingham check A) Dress; Short gusset sleeves; blue floral lace and appliques over dress. B) 1 inch wide belt of similar material.

Maternity blouse of black silk crepe and peacock feathers; Tunic style; sleeveless; shoulder straps connect front to back with button of self-covered fabric; drop waist; three tiers of peacock feathers above hem Designer Label: Page Boy / Dallas

Ballgown of ivory satin with over appliqué of yellow lace and jeweled in pearls, large pearl drops, sequins, rhinestones, bugle beads and iridescent white beads.

Maternity ensemble of black silk faille. (a) Top has a short shawl collar with double layer short sleeves, top layer of sleeve is split into tulip shape. Three button center front closure with circular self-covered buttons. A-lined and very wide at the bottom. Unlined with built-in shoulder pads. (b) Skirt is mid-length with elastic waist and two small slits at center front and center back hem. Unlined.

Indian Sari Ensemble of light green georgette with black machine embroidery and silver beading. a) Short-sleeve choli (blouse) with hook & eye closure at center front. Floral embroidery and beading. b) Sari with matching embroidery/beading.

Sundress of aqua and white printed cotton. Sleeveless with band collar and gathered skirt.

Kutchi Dress of the Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan. Full-length. Bodice of various fabrics and embellishments. Rounded neckline with slight standing/band collar of primarily yellow bead-work with blue bead squares containing red bead centers. "Collar" below neckline of pendant silver-colored coins. Shoulder areas of purple with primarily yellow stitching forming scroll-work. Front "bib" of dark red outlined with same bead-work as neckline, and sewn with 9 horizontal rows of green tear-drop shaped beads and a line of silver-colored coins. Center part of bodice of black fabric with all-over red reflective circles. Wide "waist" of dress with geometric bead-work band of white, green, red, blue, and orange, with band of small circular mirrors and two lower borders of fringe tipped with white and green beads, and lowest border of coins. Sleeves of dark green velvet with bands of rickrack of silver and gold, and stitching matching the shoulder areas. Edged with bead-work and with row of silver-colored coins. Skirt is full-length, and full, and is of dark blue/black fabric printed with white and grey pattern of small flower blossoms, paisley shapes, dots, leaves, etc. Hem of dress with wide embroidered band, upper section with horizontal band of squares of various colors (reddish, green, orange, pale green, purple), center band of yellow, and lower band of reddish/magenta. Unlined. No labels or tags.

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