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Ensemble - Kutchi Group, Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan
Ensemble - Kutchi Dress, Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan. This assembled ensemble consists of: 1. Dress. Full-length. High neckline, slight V-shape. Front yoke/bib panel of fine needlework geometric shapes and patterns, in orange, purple, green, and blue. Front of bodice with four large embroidered rosettes of silver couching with orange silver/white, and black borders. Over-length, wide sleeves of patchwork of materials, including red, purple, and pink. Cuffs of heavy silver couching with central band of small circular mirrors in needlework frames. High, narrow waistband of silver/gold couching. Front of skirt formed of thin black fabric heavily gathered to form voluminous front panel. Wide band of red fabric lining inside of front panel at hem. Back of bodice formed of red cloth with vertical white stripes. Embroidered panels under arms. Back of skirt formed of upper panel of purple printed with blue and off-white flowers and leaves, heavily gathered into waistband. Lower panel of purple fabric, as full as upper panel. Black hem on back of skirt. 2. Headpiece of silver set with glass and plastic(?) rubies and emeralds, center plaque with glass segments simulating lapis and jade(?). Central circular plaque with central red circular glass "stone" surrounded by 6 alternating triangular green and blue glass plaques forming a star. Star is encircled by ring of glass (plastic?) simulated rubies and emeralds. Outer openwork border. Extending above central plaque and connected by 4 small metal bar-shaped links is a triangular plaque set with same simulated rubies and emeralds. Extending horizontally from central plaque on either side are three rectangular metal plaques set with same simulated rubies and emeralds. All plaques connected by metal bar-shaped links. Hanging below connected plaques is fringe of short metal chain sections terminating in hollow spheres. The plaques are sewn to a narrow black cloth band designed to fit …
Sari
Indian Sari Ensemble of light green georgette with black machine embroidery and silver beading. a) Short-sleeve choli (blouse) with hook & eye closure at center front. Floral embroidery and beading. b) Sari with matching embroidery/beading.
Dress - Kutchi Group, Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan.
Kutchi Dress of the Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan. Full-length. Bodice of various fabrics and embellishments. Rounded neckline with slight standing/band collar of primarily yellow bead-work with blue bead squares containing red bead centers. "Collar" below neckline of pendant silver-colored coins. Shoulder areas of purple with primarily yellow stitching forming scroll-work. Front "bib" of dark red outlined with same bead-work as neckline, and sewn with 9 horizontal rows of green tear-drop shaped beads and a line of silver-colored coins. Center part of bodice of black fabric with all-over red reflective circles. Wide "waist" of dress with geometric bead-work band of white, green, red, blue, and orange, with band of small circular mirrors and two lower borders of fringe tipped with white and green beads, and lowest border of coins. Sleeves of dark green velvet with bands of rickrack of silver and gold, and stitching matching the shoulder areas. Edged with bead-work and with row of silver-colored coins. Skirt is full-length, and full, and is of dark blue/black fabric printed with white and grey pattern of small flower blossoms, paisley shapes, dots, leaves, etc. Hem of dress with wide embroidered band, upper section with horizontal band of squares of various colors (reddish, green, orange, pale green, purple), center band of yellow, and lower band of reddish/magenta. Unlined. No labels or tags.
Belly Dancer's Costume - Banjara Peoples of India
Bustier of a belly dancer's costume from the Banjara peoples of India. The bra-top of black cotton is embellished at front with silver coins and trimmed in multicolored cross stitch embroidery, mirror work, and Kangura patchwork appliqué. Plain black straps extend over shoulders and around back to tie.
Earrings - Rabari Festival Attire
Silver earrings. Hook fasteners attached to triangular plaques set with red or red and green glass circles. Below plaques are suspended hemispherical filigree pieces with fringe of wrapped wire and silver spheres. One earring with 5 red stones, one empty collet, the other earring with 4 red and 2 green stones.
Hat
Hat of beige cotton(?). The crown is designed as a five-sided pyramid constructed of five triangular segments that have concentric chevrons of top-stitching. The cylindrical lower edge has horizontal top-stitching, and a lower band of beige and gold brocade ribbon. Hat is unlined, with inner beige cotton(?) hatband. Designer's label: "Taj of India tm"; Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus".
Sari
Sari of red polyester, cotton and silk. a) Blouse or choli: Short sleeve, v-neck, front open b) Sari: Silk, with silver and gold woven motifs and tasseled fringe. c) Underskirt: Cotton, salmon pink, pleats at hem.
Seed Pouch
Seed pouch of cream cotton in triangular shape.
Necklace
Part of Ensemble: Belly Dancing outfit, Banjara Peoples, India. C) Necklace. Yarn/cord necklace. Ball/loop closure at back. Back part of necklace covered with tightly wound spiral of tiny red/purple beads. Necklace has 7 pendants of graduated sizes composed of silver-colored coins with attached loops and with attached hanging loops from which are suspended small silver spheres. Between each coin pendant is a tubular silver spacer bead. Coins are from India, of several denominations, one dated 1984, one dated 1985, others with dates obscured. No maker's marks or hallmarks visible. Measurements: 21 3/4" long
Paisley scarf
Scarf of dark green silk printed with greenish-blue and dark red paisley-like design. Rolled hem. Label: 100% Pure Silk / Handloom / Made in India Measures 8'' x 70''
Necklace - Rabari Festival Attire
Necklace. "Bib" style necklace with 4-strand black yarn necklace with silver slide at back. Front bib of silver beads mounted in vertical bands into a "fan" form, from which hang a fringe of 11 polished cowrie(?) shells, with a further fringe of pendant chains and spheres hanging from each shell.
Necklace - Rabari Festival Attire
Necklace. Long necklace basket-weave links on which are strung tubular silver beads and mounted Indian coins. Center section composed of three larger coins, each with three pendant coins, from which hang small fringes of chain and spheres. No clasp, long flat strip at back. 16 single coins are 25 Paise from India, various dates from 1976 to 1988; 2 pendants are 50 Paise from India, dates obscured by mounts; 1 pendant is a 1979 1 Rupee from India; The 9 smaller pendant coins below main pendants are 25 Paise coins from India, dated from 1975 to 1987.
Evening Dress
Dress of dark chocolate brown velvet.
Traditional neckpiece
Afghan Kutchi necklace or bib of ornate silver with blue and red glass cabochons and coins. Body of necklace is formed from chain link in elongated, interlocking vertical links; the base of the necklace is supported by a gray cord woven through the links and is trimmed in small spherical bells. Spaced across collar are seven attached flowerhead-shaped ornaments with large central oval glass gems surrounded by tiny tear-drop shaped mounts set with circular simulated gems from which the four outside ornaments are hung in silver mounted coins; from the three center flowerheads are suspended triangular pendants set with circular simulated gemstones, and a "fringe" of flower-shaped and star-pierced pendants and silver chain ending in spherical bells. Secures with cloth and braided cord which buttons at silver button at back. Measurements: 14" wide at widest; 12" from top of neck to bottom of fringe.
Collar-style necklace
Part of Ensemble: Kutchi Dress, Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan. B) Necklace of ornate silver with glass simulated rubies and sapphires, and coins. "Dog-collar" style necklace of elongated vertical links that interlock. At ends are triangular plaques set with small circular simulated rubies and sapphires, with plain loops for securing. Spaced across collar are 7 attached flowerhead-shaped ornaments with large central oval glass gems surrounded by tiny tear-drop shaped mounts set with circular simulated gems. From three of the flower heads are hung silver mounted coins, from the other four flower heads are suspended triangular plaques set with circular simulated gemstones, and a final "fringe" of flower-shaped and star-pierced pendant forms and a fringe of silver chain ending in a sphere. The entire dog-collar section also has elongated chain/sphere fringe. The three coins are from Afghanistan, commemorating the 1974 Islamic Summit held at Minar, and are dated 1977. No visible marks or hallmarks. Measurements: 14 1/4" wide at widest; 7 1/2" from top of neck to bottom of fringe.
Pendant
Part of Ensemble: Kutchi Dress, Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan. Pendant plaque of silver set with simulated gemstones, trapezoidal, almost triangular. Central artificial emerald stone within border of smaller simulated stones (rubies, emeralds, sapphires). In corners of panel are set single artificial stones. Outer band of stones. Chased outer edges. Upper edge with applied loops/roundels with suns/flower-heads. From bottom edge of each plaque is a fringe of chain ending in hollow spheres. No visible marks or hallmarks. Measurements: 5" high with fringe x 3 1/4" wide at widest point.
Pendant
Part of Ensemble: Kutchi Dress, Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan. Pendant plaque of silver set with simulated gemstones, trapezoidal, almost triangular. Central artificial blue sapphire stone within border of smaller simulated stones (rubies, emeralds, sapphires). In corners of panel are set single artificial stones. Outer band of stones. Chased outer edges. Upper edge with applied loops/roundels with suns/flower-heads. From bottom edge of each plaque is a fringe of chain ending in hollow spheres. Coin suspended from loop at left and right sides of plaque. One of the coins is from Iran, minted before 1980. No visible marks or hallmarks. Measurements: 5 1/8" high with fringe x 4" wide at widest point.
Earrings - Rabari Festival Attire
Silver earrings. Wire hook fasteners attached to oval collet containing a large oval dark blue glass(?) cabochon stone. Below stone is suspended a filigree hemisphere with dense fringe of silver shaped plaques and spheres.
Earrings - Banjara Festival Attire
Earrings. Pair of earrings for pierced ears. Each earring is composed of an inner and outer circular hoop. A single flat silver pendant is suspended within the inner hoop, while a fringe of 7 pendants of a bugle bead and a silver sphere hang from the inner hoop. From the outer hoop hang a long triangular pendant fringe of 13 graduated strands with bugle beads, terminating in flat silver teardrop forms.
Earrings - Kutchi Group, Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan.
Earrings. Pair of heavy pendant earrings of silver-colored metal and glass. Bail loops suspend a roughly semi-circular silver plate with collet-set glass sapphires, emeralds, and rubies. From lower edge of plate are suspended small clusters of flat silver shapes and small spheres. Earrings do not match exactly.
Necklace - Banjara Festival Attire
Necklace. Torc-style necklace of silver, twisted and with wire wrapping at ends. Rigid hook at front to connect ends, and with a single Indian 25 Paise coin mounted near each side of clasp, with pendant silver beads. Suspended from the ends, near the clasp, are two large triangular ornaments of silver openwork, from which are suspended short lengths of silver chain terminating in silver spheres. Coins date from 1982 and 1988.
Belly Dancer's Costume - Banjara Peoples of India
Belly Dancer's Costume - Banjara Peoples of India A) Choli (top) - Sleeved, backless top. Deep V-neckline. Short sleeves. Patchwork, using various types, colors, and patterns of fabric. Panels at sides, bottom, and upper breasts/lower front shoulders of rows of various sized mirrors framed in different color stitching. Ties in back. Lined in various fabrics. B) Ghaghra (skirt) - Ankle-length skirt made of horizontal bands of various fabrics. From top: Green waistband; Yellow band with red stitched "X" forms; Wide band of three rows of small circular mirrors framed in various colors of cloth, the bands divided by a blue and an orange stripe of cloth with stitched "X" forms; Thin green band with red stitches; Very thin white strip; Pink stripe with center band of yellow/green running across it; Narrow band of various-colored fabric in slightly wavy profile; Black band with center band of various color stitching; White crenelated band; purple band; Wide green section with center wide red stripe with yellow borders; Wide hem with various embroidered bands and stitching. Lined in red fabric with light yellow printed paisley design. Slit at side, tie at waistband. C) Necklace. Yarn/cord necklace. Ball/loop closure at back. Back part of necklace covered with tightly wound spiral of tiny red/purple beads. Necklace has 7 pendants of graduated sizes composed of silver-colored coins with attached loops and with attached hanging loops from which are suspended small silver spheres. Between each coin pendant is a tubular silver spacer bead. Coins are from India, of several denominations, one dated 1984, one dated 1985, others with dates obscured. No maker's marks or hallmarks visible. Measurements: 21 3/4" long D) Necklace. Long, narrow corded/twined black necklace with central openwork beaded "zig-zag" line of tiny beads in groups of red, yellow, green, red, blue, green, and orange, with …
Embroidered cap
Traditional Indian hat in skull cap form with an opening at back lower edge somewhat like an inverted "V" or ogee arch. The entire cap is of fuchsia red/pink silk shisha or abhla bharat embroidery with circular openings which reveal tiny mirrors. Linear decorations of yellow, green, and purple. Lined in an off-white fabric which shows some of the stitching, creating patterns. No labels. Measurements: approx. 8" (20 cm) diameter x approx. 4 1/2 (11.5cm) high.
Lounge Jacket
Lounge jacket of beige coarse woven 100% cotton.
Chakra panel
Chakra (hanging panel for a shrine or altar in homes) with Kutch embroidery. Square panel with radial, square design balanced from center. Center panel is nine squares bordered in geometric embroidery, with each square containing nine mica mirrors attached with buttonhole stitches around edges. Center panel surrounded by border with linear pattern, then border with double helix pattern, then wider band with floral motifs with mica mirrors at center. Outside that band is another border of double helix pattern, a wider band of roundels with sun pattern and mica mirrors at center, and outside border of double helix. Back lined in undyed muslin, with many stitches showing through.
Paisley dressing gown
a) Dressing gown of loosely woven undyed natural cotton with an off-white color, with oversized hand block-printed paisley motifs in red-purple, blue, and yellow. Oversized silhouette, wrap construction, wide kimono sleeves, side seams with pockets, full length. Lined in bright pint silk visible in the oversized sleeves. Label: Christian Dior lingerie, Made in France, Dry Cleaning (in three languages) b) Tie belt of matching bright pink silk, secured to dressing gown with loops of self.
Floral embroidered dress
Evening dress of fine white netting with all-over three-dimensional machine embroidered floral and butterfly motifs in variety of colors (orange, white, pink, blue, yellow), most motifs measuring 2-3 inches in diameter, narrow straps, plunging v-neckline, natural waistline, a-line, full length, center back exposed zipper, fully lined in white with wide band of crinoline, boning in bodice. Label: Alice and Olivia by Stacy Bendet Made in India 6 (retail label still attached)
Sequin jacket
Evening jacket of black silk with sequin decoration. Hip length jacket with long sleeves, High, rounded collar with two hook-and-eyes just below throat, and center front opening with 9 hidden snaps and two hook-and-eyes. Neckline, cuffs, hem, and cf opening heavily beaded/sequined in gold and copper with small Paisley forms in green and blue/gray chain stitch embroidery. Body of jacket decorated in large blocks of overlapping sequins in iridescent purple, iridescent dark green, and black sequins. Torso lined in black silk; sleeves unlined. Designer's label at inside back collar: “Naeem Khan / Riazee / Nights”; Retailer's label at inside back collar: “Neiman Marcus”; Content/Origin label at inside back collar: “Suzarilla / Pure Silk Garments / with silk lining / Made in India” Size label at inside back collar: "8" With small plastic bag of spare sequins/beads.
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