Cloche style hat of black Milan straw cloth with small, slightly pointed front brim. Hat is folded across width of crown towards front. Narrow black velvet ribbon trim meeting to form a bow at front with wreath of folded ribbon at base of bow. Unlined with elastic band to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Louise Bourbon (barely legible) / 13 Rue Royale Paris" Tag attached to designer's label: "Made in France"
Hat of black felt, brimless toque style. Cylindrical crown, rounded at top shoulders with extending cockscomb of three tiers extending upwards. Designer's label: "Bruyere / 4, Rue de Rondovi_Paris" Tag above designer's label: "Made in France"
Hat of gold felt. Alpine adaptation style sport hat with sunken crown. Brown grosgrain ribbon hatband and orange pheasant quill trim. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer label: "Blanche & Simone / Paris . 1 Rue de la Paix 1 . Paris"
Hat of soft white pique styled with elements of a pillbox and a sailor's cap. Circular conical crown stitched to create folds and valleys around top and upper part. White silk(?) band inside lower edge. Designer's label: "Agnes / 6 Rue St Florentin / Paris"
Hat of black wool felt in fedora style. Wide brimmed; sunken crown. Red leather trim at crown cut down center with pinking cut and supplemented with wound strands of green leather and braided with wound strands of green leather on opposite side. Ends of hatband are connected with large wooden toggle. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Rose Descat / 22.Rue Royale"
Hat of navy blue felt in Scottish glengarry style with two blue grosgrain ribbon on crown forming short streamers in back. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "été 1940 / Schiaperelli / 21, Place Vendôme Paris" Label above designer's label: "Made in France"
Hat of red wool felt. Sport style with sectioned, slight gathering at two points on domed crown. Asymmetrical crown with black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Unlined. Inner headband of black grosgrain ribbon and white fabric. Designer's label on inside headband: "Rose Descat / 22.Rue Royale" Tag below designer's label: "Made in France"
Evening gown of black crepe with maroon sequin trim. Full-length. Bodice of thin net covered with swirling pattern of magenta purple sequins. Rounded neckline. Short sleeves with shoulder pads. Empire waist has set-in waistband with added butterfly-shaped panel below set-in panel on front. Flared skirt, bias-cut. Left side opening (closure missing); bodice has center front opening with 5 snaps and hook & eye at neckline. Unlined. Designer's label at inside waist: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris" "Made in Paris" label sewn below designer's label.
Slouch type hat and matching ascot. a) Slouch style hat of gold lame with butterfly print in blues and reds. Large bow of self at front base of crown and smaller bow of self at base of crown in back. Asymmetrical brim, wider in front. Lined in black felt. Designer's label: "Paris New York / J. Suzanne Talbot / 8. Avenue Matignon" b) Ascot of matching gold lame with butterfly print in blues and reds. Designer's label: "Paris New York / J. Suzanne Talbot / 8. Avenue Matignon" Model number tag to right of designer's label (illegible): "38-5(?)"
Sailor hat with small shallow crown and wired frame covered in red and blue wool plaid. Blue grosgrain ribbon trims crown. Designer's label: "Madame Suzy / 5, Rue de la Paix / Paris" Label above designer's label: "Made in France" Model tag on reverse of designer's label: "3407"
Beret of navy felt with 2 burnt orange grosgrain ribbon trims on back and one in front attached to brim. Elastic band for securing hat to wearers head. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Agnes / 83 Faubourg St Honore 83 / Angle Avenue Matignon" Label attached to designer's label: "Made in France" Model number tag attached to back of designer's label: "24806"
Glengarry style cap of Scottish tartan wool plaid in green/black/blue and white stripes. Tricolored cockade trim on right side. Designer's label on inside hat band: "Madame Suzy / 5, Rue de la Paix / Paris" Label above designer's label: "Made in France"
Alpine style hat in wine felt with green stitching and crease across center of crown. Wide grosgrain ribbon trim around base of crown of same color as top-stitching. Red feather on one side. Designer's label: "Rose Descat / 22.Rue Royale" Tag in hat: "Made in France"
High standing beret of navy felt fabric. Asymmetric shape. Hatband of purple stain ties at knot in back with frayed ends. Designer's label: "Madame Luzy / 5, Rue de la Paix / Paris" Label attached to top of designer's label: "Made in France"
Pillbox like hat of burnt sienna colored velvet. Standing brim and self bow. Top knot of self as trim. Crown close fitting like a calotte. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label on inside hatband: " Erik Braagaard / Paris / 8 rue St. Florentin" Label attached to top of designer's label: "Made in France" Model label under designer's label (partly illegible): "00 314"
Turban style hat of royal blue, corded velvet. Cords are twisted and braided over all of hat. Grosgrain hatband with silk lining (deteriorated). Designer's label: "Mme Marie-Alphonsine Modes / 73 . Champs Elysees Paris" Label below designer's label: "Made in France"
Calotte style hat of white fur with small white satin brim. Matching front satin bow off center to the right. Manufacturer's label inside crown: "Mousse / HB / Made in France" Retailer's label on inside hatband at back: "Bonwit Teller"
Fedora hat of light grey felt. Rust red felt hatband knots in front with ends of knot extending across and folding under the brim. Crown folds to triangular points meeting at top and is trimmed in same rust red felt as hatband. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label on inside hat band: "Rose Valois / 18, Rue Royale / Paris" Label left of designer's label: "Made in France"
Headband of black felt draped and decorated with brightly multicolored plaid silk taffeta. Loop of plaid fabric in front held by large brass hatpin with head of three branches of three leaves each. Ends of fabric tie in back with hanging, frayed ends. Designer's label: "Paris 420 Rue St. Honoré / Erik / Londres" Label above designer's label: "Made in France"
Blouse of navy blue wool. Wide, boat neckline with inner wide white pique lining which folds over dark plum(?) facing of wool collar, to become shawl collar. Double breasted, with three pair of circular black buttons and single hook-and-eye at waist. Sleeveless, with slight "cap" effect caused by wide shoulders darting, and deep diagonal line of sides. Raised waist and flaring peplum. Unlined. Inner structure augmented with satin ribbons sewn to help hold structure of bodice. Designer's label at inside lower left seam: "Renée Collard / Paris" Retailer's label overlapping lower edge of designer's label: "Janga / 98 Faubg St Honoré Paris"
Boater-style hat of off-white straw. The whole hat is of straw woven into shell-shaped segments, connected to form the body of the hat. The cylindrical crown has a flat top, and is encircled at the base by a black velvet ribbon. At either side of the crown are large black velvet bows. The flat, oval brim follows the outline of the crown, and is partly overlaid by a fine black mesh veil with long, trailing ends that are long enough to tie under the wearer's chin. The underside of the brim is edged in black velvet, and there is a black velvet strap which extends down from either side to help secure hat to wearer's head. The hat is lined with a fine white mesh, and has an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon at inside base of crown. Labels sewn into inner hatband: "Marché Hats / Paris New York"; Also sewn into inner hatband is second label, "Consumers' Protection Label / 784619". Hand-written on velvet chinstrap: "59389"
Cloche-style hat of pink fur felt. Lattice-work design in strips of same fabric surrounds crown and forms knot at side. Unlined. Pink grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Stamp on crown: "Helios / Body Made in Italy" Designer's label: "Schiaparelli / Paris"
Hat of tan fur felt. The highly structured hat of fur felt has a somewhat conical crown, the top with a low dome. Around the top edge of the crown is a wide band of same felt, slanting down, enhanced with vertical stitching. Below this slanting band, around the main body of the crown, is a wide band of brown satin-finished ribbon, decorated with 8 horizontal rows of top stitching, secured at back under a vertical band of the felt. The narrow brim, ca. 1" wide, angles downwards, sharply at back and sides, gently at front, and rolls under. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of tan grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label: "Schiaparelli / Paris"
Hat of light brown felt and black voile. The domed crown is of light brown felt, curving slightly and extending outwards at front. Mounted at front is a large leaf-shape of fine black voile with black thread veining and wired edge. The leaf from is sculptural, with the wired edge curved and bent. At side of leaf is a spray of yellow feathers and black ribbon. Hat is unlined, with inner light brown grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label (stating reproduction: "Reproduction Autorisee de / Janette Colombier / 4 Avenue Matignon / Paris" Maker's label: "Fifth Avenue / G Howard Hodge / New York" Maker's label for felt body: "Gaby / Made / In / Czechoslovakia"
Hat of brown felt in modified beret-style. Crown is draped with a band of pearls as trim on right side. Unlined with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Maker's label: "Haute Mode / Michèle / Paris"
Hat in modified renaissance style of black crochet net. Flat, circular crown of net gathered under crown from temples draping to shoulder length. Inside hatband of black grosgrain. Designer's label on inside hatband: " Lilly Dache Paris 78 East 58th St. New York"
Hat of olive green/gray felt. The low, domed crown is of a drab olive green/gray felt, divided into four quadrants. Around the base of the crown is a band of similarly colored grosgrain ribbon, with bow at right side. The brim is of the same felt, and slopes downwards at front, and turns upwards at back. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon at inside base of crown. Attached to the inner band is an elasticized cord to help secure hat to wearer's head. Stamped in gold on inner hatband: "Made in France especially for / Best & Co"
Peaked Dutch-type bonnet of rough black straw with two bands of embroidered organdy and lace across forehead. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Unlined. Designer's label: "été 1940 / Schiaperelli / 21, Place Vendôme Paris" Label under designer's label: "Made in France"
Afternoon hat of crushed and draped velvet. Brim of dark purple, crown of wine. Purple brim extends to point at side. Self cording trim. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Lined in wine colored silk. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Marguerite & Leonie / 4 . Rue des Carucines" Label attached below designer's label: "Made in France"
Hat of black organza. The hat is in the form of a pillbox designed as a turban. A wired framework is overlaid with black organza, pleated to form long folds running front to back. At the front of the hat is a large bow of the same material, the trailing pieces pleated to match the crown and affixed to run in same direction. Lined in black mesh, and with inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Elastic string inside to run around back of wearer's head to secure hat. Two small hatpins with custom covers of same material on heads are stuck in back of hat. Designer's Label: "Lilly / Dache / Paris New York / 78th East 56th Street, N.Y."
Turban style hat of black and pink striped satin with stuffed stand up pleated pouf in front. Lined in black net with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Designer's label: "Lilly Daché Paris / 78 East 58th St. New York"
Calotte style hat of black velvet and felt. Rim of velvet bows surrounding pointed cap supported by scalloped brim. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Madame Suzy / 5, Rue de la Paix / Paris" Label below designer's label: "Made in France"
Calotte style hat of navy blue wool felt. Right side extends with a strip of felt curling downward then upward to a point trimmed with a strand of pears, gold leaves, and blue/green bugle beads. Unlined with a blue grosgrain hatband. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Ginette Robert / de Paris"
Hat of dark brown felt. Wired, rolled brim with one black and one light brown pom pom as trim. Hat has two wired triangular shaped extensions at left and right rim for securing hat to head as well as elastic band. Designer's label on inside hat band: "Madame Suzy / 5, Rue de la Paix / Paris"
Turban style hat of sienna taffeta striped with velvet. Pheasant feathers as trim on front. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "a Paris / Maud et Nano / 107 Faubourg St. Honore" Tag attached to designer's label: "Made in France"
Hat of gray felt. The hat is styled as a man's fedora. The crown is of gray felt, canted backwards, with flattened top which is sunken-in. Brim slants down in front and turns up in back, and is quilted with concentric stitching. Remains of threads and holes indicate hat originally had some form of band around the base of the crown. Hat is unlined, with inner hatband of steel blue gray grosgrain ribbon inside base of crown. Affixed to inner hatband is black elasticized cord to secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Valerie / Hat / Paris - New York", with size label sewn to edge of maker's label: "22 1/2"
Suit (jacket and skirt) of dark brown wool consisting of: Jacket. Single breasted with notched lapel. The center front opening is slightly angled from top left to lower right and has three circular, dark brown, plastic buttons and tailored buttonholes. Long, set-in sleeves have three nonfunctional, smaller, matching buttons with tailored buttonholes at hem. Torso tapers to fitted, natural waist and flares to hips. Vertical, double welt, very shallow side pockets. Lapel, center front opening and hem of sleeves trimmed in thin, black piping. Princess seaming. Lightly padded shoulders. Lined in black silk jacquard with repeated "Jean Dessés" pattern. Skirt. Street length; slightly A-lined. Designed to appear as a wrapped skirt with diagonal opening from left hip to right side hem with five nonfunctional buttons matching jacket, and tailored buttonholes. At center front, from knee height to left side hem, is simulated opening backed by same fabric. Opening has black piping matching jacket. Left side zipper with two hook & eyes on narrow waistband. Lined in black silk, with exception of front panel.
Coat dress of navy silk faille with padded hips. Notched collar; single button closure. Long sleeves with vertical pleat across back shoulder to each sleeve hem. Lower mid-length skirt. Two crescent shaped pieces of fabric at hips with faux pocket detail gives the appearance of a separate jacket. Designer's label on inner right waist side seam: "Christian Dior/ New York/ Original" Tag above designer's label: "Fall 1949" Retailer's label on back of neck: "Neiman-Marcus/ Dallas" Belt of matching navy leather. Stamped on back of belt: "10 Christian Dior / New York"
Cocktail or dinner dress ensemble of pale blue/green satin brocade with design of acanthus and thistle/leaf in dark green and golden yellow, consisting of: A) Blouse. Short sleeves with 2" rolled cuffs and shawl collar. Center front opening has 4 self-covered buttons above waist, and 6 hook-and-loops below waist on peplum for securing into skirt. Fitted seaming and pleats centered on waist. Unlined. Label inside top at left side seam: "Made in France / Christian Dior / Paris" and stamped on label: "05456" B) Skirt of matching brocade. The mid-length skirt is double box pleated from narrow waistband. Center back zipper with hook-and-eyes at waistband. Unlined. C) Petticoat of ivory moiré satin. Mid-length, with narrow waistband. Center back zipper with hook-and-eye at waistband. E) Belt of green silk-covered ivory leather with rectangular silk-covered buckle. (not in photographs) D) Purse of green silk.
a) Evening gown of black wool and silk taffeta; top of wool with low scooped, curved neckline cut deep in back with 3/4 sleeves; fitted bodice extends to hip; skirt of silk taffeta; gathered; with silk underskirt. b) Stole of black wool with silk ruffled ends.
Hat of gray fur felt. The derby style hat is made of a single piece of stiffened gray fur felt. The low, domed crown is encircled near the base by a band of black grosgrain ribbon, with a bow at back. The 2" wide brim curves upwards at edges. Hat is unlined, and has a band of black grosgrain ribbon inside at base of crown. Attached to the inner ribbon is a small plastic comb to secure the hat to wearer's head. Designer's label sewn to inner ribbon: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York / 78 East 56th Street, N.Y."
Hat of brown felt. The low, slightly domed crown is almost hidden by the upturned brim. At front facing of brim is large flat brown grosgrain ribbon bow. Around the base of the crown is affixed brown net veiling. The hat is unlined, with inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband. Combined designer's/retailer's label inside: "Leslie James / Designed for Sakowitz / Houston" Manufacturer's style stamp inside crown: "Midi / Imported Velour Body / Made in France"
Suit of taupe wool consisting of: A) Jacket. Single breasted with closure of two large, plastic, textured taupe colored buttons and bound buttonholes. Notched collar and long, set-in sleeves. Two pleated plackets at sides of waistline with bound openings create loops for belt. Lined in matching silk jacquard of "Christian Dior" pattern. Designer's label at inside left opening: "Christian Dior-New York, Inc." Evidence of removed label at center back neckline. B) Skirt. Slightly A-lined with left side zipper and hook & eye. 1" waistband. Lined in rust colored silk crepe. C) Self-covered belt with rectangular buckle. 1-1/2" wide. Stamped on reverse: "16 Christian Dior / New York, Inc"
Day dress of brown silk damask in fine diamond pattern. The dress is in wrap-around style, with asymmetric neckline with wide, shawl collar on the left. Street length. Opening buttons on bodice at left with 4 circular, brown buttons and bound buttonholes, hook & eye at natural waist and two snaps where skirt attaches to peplum. Peplum is asymmetric and longer on left. Long dolman sleeves with underarm gussets and folded back cuffs. With matching belt.
Cocktail dress of dark navy blue silk satin. Strapless with fitted bodice. Open pleats over bust with mock bow and attached 14'' wide stole lined with silk organza which drapes over right shoulder and down back. Straight skirt with small inverted pleats at each hip bone, 23 1/2'' long from waist. Center back 24'' zipper closing with hook and eye at top and waist line. French netting, boned bustier with black grosgrain ribbon and hook & eye closure on inside. Skirt is lined to hip front and back with navy taffeta. Designer's label at center front bottom of bustier: "Christian Dior Original / Made In U.S.A. / Christian Dior - New York, Inc. / Trademark" Retailer's label to left of designer's label: "Neiman-Marcus"
Daytime ensemble of brown silk consisting of: A) Dress. Below-knee length, the dress has princess seaming to create fitted bodice, with wide V-neckline, 3/4" shoulder straps and straight skirt. 1" belt of self fabric from front darts to center back. Center back zipper. Unlined. Designer's label: "Christian Dior Original / Made in U.S.A. / Christian Dior - New York Inc." Retailer's label: "Harzfeld's / Kansas City" B) Jacket. Cropped jacket is pleated in front and back to a 3" waistband on which are three brass buttons 1/2" wide, and bound buttonholes. Long sleeves with 1-1/2" cuffs and one matching button per sleeve. Band collar has 10" tie ends and L-shaped lapel. Unlined.
Dress of blue/gray silk satin or peau de soie, in shirtwaist style. Notched collar. Self covered button at center front with bound buttonhole. Waist seam; 3/4 length skirt with pleats on front and back of skirt. Half-length sleeves with self covered button, turn-back cuffs and bound buttonhole. Armhole princess seams front and back. Tucks on front and back bodice. Center back zipper. Lined in blue organdy with 1/2" blue grosgrain ribbon petersham. With belt of self-fabric forming a bow at center front with hook & eye and snap closure. Designer's label at center back seam below zipper: "Christian Dior - New York, Inc."
Ensemble in black and oatmeal colored wool, consisting of: A) Jacket: Semi-fitted wool in abstracted herringbone weave with black and oatmeal yarns running double throughout; moderately rounded neckline with asymmetrical mandarin collar; full-length raglan sleeves with overarm seam and undersleeve; double breasted front opening with eight round, plastic, oatmeal colored buttons and four bound buttonholes supplemented by single hook & eye inside lap at waist; vertical welt pockets on front lined in black silk; fully lined in black silk. Designer's label at inside collar: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris" and "Made in France". Retailer's label at inside side seam: "Neiman-Marcus" B) Dress: Knee length dress; bodice of black wool gauze with jewel neckline; sleeveless; lapped centerfront opening with four round self-covered buttons and bound buttonholes supplemented by single snap and hook & eye; bodice gathers into seam at natural waistline; gathered hip yoke of same gauze; straight skirt of matching herringbone has three snaps at centerfront opening; folded hem; gauze is lined in black silk organdy; skirt is unlined.
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