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Picture Hat
Picture hat of black velvet with domed crown and wide brim edged in black satin. Hatband of pleated black satin. Bright green ostrich feathers on left side of crown. Lined in pink fabric. Designer's label: "Mae Kelley / Exclusive Hand Made Hats / Whittier, Calif." Retailer's label: "Yvonne / Hats / California"
Day dress
A) Dress of navy blue knit crepe. Wide round 4 1/2 inch white faille collar with big blue taffeta bow at center front. Calf length; half sleeves. Horizontal release pleat detail at back hips. Center back zipper closure; unlined. Designer label: Howard Greer / Beverly Hills B) Belt of self-covered crepe with rectangular buckle. Backed in black leather.
Dress and cape
A) Evening dress of off white crepe. Shirring at bustline; fitted waist; shirring at front hip; sheer pleated chiffon at front and back. B) Cape of off white chiffon with white fur trim.
Wool dress
Dress of navy blue wool gabardine. Square neck; long sleeves. Slight peplum at waist. Straight skirt center front closure with nine 2" and 1-and-1/2" black patent leather buckles. One buckle on cuffs of sleeves. Label at inside seam near hem: "Chas. Levy & Son / Beverly Hills / Mrs. Ben G. Sterling / Date 8/31/37 No 2001", partly filled out by typewriter on pre-printed label.
Cocktail dress
A) Cocktail dress of black crepe. Black velvet sweetheart neckline with inserted tan fabric covered in black mousseline net. Calf length; elbow length sleeves. Pleated drape detail at front side hips. Center back zipper closure; unlined. Designer label: Howard Greer / Beverly Hills B) Self-covered belt. Rectangular buckle; backed in black leather. Stamped: 14 Howard Greer / Style 839
Cocktail dress
Cocktail dress of beige lace with a pleated satin midriff, beading done in sequins and seed pearls. Label in left side beneath arm hole reads "Ursula/Beverly Hills"
Evening Dress
Evening dress of black heavy crepe with rows of looped accents at neckline, left sleeve, left hip and on draped band below left hip. Two hanging tabs from right waistline. Sheath silhouette. Pointed collar with open slit. Long sleeves with small zippers at cuffs. Full length with vent at center front. Center back zipper closure. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original"
Hat
Hat of black felt. The low, domed crown of black felt is ornamented with a double-spray of black feathers at front. The brim, also of black felt, is turned up at front and turned down at back. The underside of the brim, which shows at front, is lined in black lace embellished with tiny black sequins and beads (jet?). The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Attached to inner hatband is a small black plastic comb to secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Grace Nugent / Los Angeles, Calif." Supplier's logo mark of Merrimac De Luxe Fur Felt stamped to inside of crown.
Jacket
Jacket of navy blue wool crepe. Asymmetrically trimmed with pleated band falling from right shoulder, secured with white buckle at waistline. Self belt at waist with matching white buckle. Long sleeved with pleated diagonal at lower right sleeve. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original"
Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of brownish grey worsted wool in black, white, and warm grey. Jacket of self-worsted wool with notched collar and rounded lapels that extend beyond collar; open front trimmed in half-circle lapels at opening with brass disc button accents; 4 buttons on each side decreasing in diameter to bottom; wide, elbow-length sleeves with 3” cuffs; small shoulder pads within; fully lined in brown chiffon; waist-length. Skirt of matching self-worsted wool is gored with long reverse pleat at center-front surrounded by 2 shorter reverse pleats at each side; slight A-line; hits below knees. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original" Original customer label(?): "James L. Courtney"
Skirt suit
Two-piece suit of tan, lightly striped, possibly synthetic material. a) Jacket: Tailored shell with high rounded neckline. Square spread collar. Full-length set-in sleeves. The sleeves are constructed in one piece with darts at the elbows. Center front closure from the neck to hip line. Four bound buttonholes with corresponding brown tortoise shell buttons. Bound hip pockets with flaps. The jacket front is intricately pieced. Fully lined in light brown crepe. Designer's label stitched along inside of right front opening: "Adrian / Original" b) Skirt: Narrow knee-length skirt with knee-level kick pleat. The skirt is darted into a narrow waistband. Left side seam zipper closure from waist to hip line. Lapped closure with single hook&eye and hook&bar. Unlined with turned back hem.
Envelope for Hollywood Pattern #693
Hollywood pattern 693 to make a one-piece dress with inverted pleated skirt, patch pockets, front button closure, and long or short sleeves, including illustrations of the finished pieces and information about sizing and construction on the back. Envelope includes photograph of "Jane Wyman, star of "Bad Men of Missouri," a Warner Bros. Production."
Skirt suit
Two-piece daytime suit of Mexican homespun cotton. A) Jacket. Body of jacket is purple, long sleeves and collarless yoke of green, with a narrow band of rose inserted below yoke in front. Jacket has padded shoulders and is slightly fitted, and closes with hooks and eyes in front. Small string tie at waist. Fully lined in purple silk. Label: "Adrian / Original" B) Skirt. Skirt is purple, below knee-length, of slim design flaring slightly. Was altered to lengthen, and then restored to original length. Side zipper closure, and waistband has snap and two hook-and-eye closures. No Labels. 1967.002.003, a hat by Henry's, Dallas, was made to go with this suit. It was most likely created with consideration for L-85 manufacturing restrictions during World War II.
Print dress
Summer suit of textured Enka rayon in pink and black "Fiberset" Holstein cow print with black flies . A) Jacket has two front ties; one at neck and one at natural waist. Two hook-and-eye closures along center front behind waist tie; flip peplum and 3/4 sleeves. Unlined. Built-in shoulder pads. Label: "Adrian / Original" B) Skirt is below knee-length; gored and flared. Waistband of black grosgrain ribbon with hook & eye closure. Unlined.
Beach ensemble
Beach ensemble of tan cotton printed in black lace and net motif. A) Beach robe. Hip length; long sleeves; revers neckline; padded shoulders. Lined in black terry cloth with patch pocket at left side opening. Reversible. Designer label: Caltex / of California / Howard Greer / Design B) Matching halter top. Tie closures at back neckline and center back. C) Matching shorts. Tie trim on center front waistband. Center back zipper closure.
Beret
Beret style hat of ochre colored chenille yarn. Retailer's label on inside crown: " Alexander & Oviatt / Los Angeles"
Cocktail dress
Cocktail dress of black crepe. Scooped neckline inset in tan under black Chantilly lace. Empire waistline with inserted contour waist of black velvet and non-functioning self-covered buckle. Street length. Short sleeves; bodice opening and neckline draped in black chiffon. Center back zipper closure; unlined. Designer label: Howard Greer / Beverly Hills Retailer label: Neiman-Marcus
Evening Dress
Evening dress consisting of jacket and skirt. A) Jacket. The fitted black velvet jacket is encrusted with gold braid/ribbon in a lattice/trellis pattern over the entire surface, with added buttons, cabochons, beads, etc. lavishly sewn over the surface. The jacket has a no collar, and short capped sleeves. From the natural waist flares a peplum. The jacket has a center front closure of hooks-and-eyes. Unlined, it has built-in shoulder pads. No label in jacket. B) Straight skirt is full-length, of heavy black crepe. Center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at waistband. Designer's label inside skirt at side seam: "Adrian / Custom", along with a second label, typed on white grosgrain ribbon, sewn in: "Neiman Marcus 417 / Size 12".
Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of navy blue wool twill consisting of: A) Hip-length jacket with full length tailored sleeves. Collarless neckline which raises 3/4". Single breasted with 3 tortoise buttons and slim bound button holes. Bib-shaped yoke insert with two almost vertical faux pocket flaps. Mid-arm design seams comes to inner top of lower hacking pocket flaps. Hacking pockets have vertical and slim bound buttons holes with one tortoise button for right flap and one turquoise button for left flap. Back inverted triangular yoke starts from shoulders with point ended at center back waist. Tailored sleeve split into upper and under sleeve, with two darts at elbow on under sleeve. Fully lined in (now) indigo crepe silk. B) Skirt, pencil with seams at center front and back and both sides. 1 1/2" waist band with triangular tip comes to a lapped zipper on left side and 4 sets of hooks and one snap for closure. Two 2" darts on front and two 4" darts on back. 2" simple vent at CF hem, hem has been let down from original length by ~2", using 2" cotton bias tape. Skirt is unlined with pinked cut edges to finish seam inside. Labels: Designer's label: "Adrian / in / British Samek Material" Retailer's label: "The Fashion / Houston"
Sport shirt
Man's sport's shirt of blue Irish linen. Long sleeves, center front opening, two patch pockets with buttons at upper chest. Convertible neck. Designer's label: "Adrian / designs for men / Neiman-Marcus" Fabric label: "Imported / Irish Linen" Size label: "Washable / M"
Skirt Suit
Brown gabardine suit. a) Suit jacket of brown gaberdine. Long sleeves. Single breasted with three circular brown buttons and bound buttonholes. Two faux flap pockets at yoke with matching, smaller buttons and bound buttonholes. Two lower hacking pockets with matching, smaller buttons and bound buttonholes. V-shaped yoke on back. Lined in rust colored silk. No designer's label. Retailer's label on inside center back neckline: "Nan Duskin / Philadelphia" b) Skirt of brown gaberdine. A-lined shape with left side zipper. Kick pleat at center front seam. Unlined.
Skirt Suit
Street suit of gray wool. A daytime or street suit consisting of two pieces. Excellent example of chiaroscuro work. A) Jacket with squared padded shoulders, no collar, and long sleeves. Opening along the central front, the jacket has a series of 5 hook-and-eye closures. A band that extends from upper left, across opening, and secures through a wide loop just below the right shoulder. The jacket is lined in a peach/mauve silk. At center back of inside neckline is designer's label: "Adrian / Original" Retailer's label at right inside seam: "Frost Bros. / San Antonio". B) Straight skirt was originally just below knee length, but has been lengthened by the addition of material almost matching the lining of the jacket. The skirt has a center back zipper closure. It is currently unlined, but has evidence of the alterations. No labels, possibly removed.
Ensemble - Cape Coat and Dress
Two-piece wool tweed cape/coat street ensemble. a) Cape coat of wool tweed in three shades of plum. Long, single-breasted coat with cape attached at shoulders. Four button closure with alternating bound buttonholes and supplemented with two hook & eyes. Two small double welt pockets on yoke and two larger double welt pockets at waistline. Coat dress portion is tailored at waistline with 3/4 length sleeves. Small turndown collar. Lined in rust brown colored silk faille. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Adrian / Original" b) Straight skirt of matching wool tweed. Unlined. Zipper closure.
Skirt Suit
Woman's skirt suit of grey-black twill wool with blue and creme yellow pinstripe. a) Jacket has flat pointed collar with a rectangular insert yoke panel trimmed with four teal, olive and brown mottled plastic buttons. Center front opening with three same buttons and bound button holes. Bodice has 3 faux pocket flaps on right, increasing in size like a step pyramid. Long, one-piece set in sleeves sleeves with two elbow darts on both arms. Right arm has two rectangular, decorative fabric panels on right sleeve of jacket's fabric, with a single button and bound button hole each in the upper, outer corner. Lined in tan silk faille. Designer's Label at center back collar: "Adrian/ in/British Samek Material" b) A-line skirt with CF and CB and side seams. Hemmed in navy blue hem tape, blind hem (slip) stitched on both sides. 3" hem. Four waist darts, with 1 3/8" waist band ending in arrow tip over left-side lapped zipper.
Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of black English gabardine. a) Jacket with parallel rows of scalloped seam details which angle from the center front neck and shoulders to the side seam to meet the back scalloped seams. Convertible collar. Long, two-piece sleeves with scallop seam detail from wrist to shoulder; underarm shaped with dart. Center front opening with three self covered buttons with bound buttonholes. Lined in black textured silk. Designer's label at inside, right front buttonhole extension: "Adrian / Original" Retailer's label at inside back neckline: " Neiman-Marcus" b) Pencil skirt of same with center front scallop from hip to hem; last scallop is used for shaped vent. Lined in black textured silk. Lapped left-side zipper. Waistband overlap ends in a triangle.
Skirt Suit
Navy daytime tailored two-piece suit in British Samek wool. a) Suit jacket of navy British Samek wool. Center front opening with three circular, blue plastic buttons; welted buttonholes button suit jacket. Padded shoulders. Two patch pockets. Notched collar with squared shoulder yoke with matching button attached to square insert. Lined in eggplant crepe. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Adrian / in / British Samek Material" Tag above designer's label: "A. Herod, Sr." b) Slim straight skirt of navy British Samek wool. Folded waistband of same. Center back zipper with snap and 4 hook and eyes on waistband. Lined in navy blue silk. Tag on inside waistband: "A. Herod, Sr."
Skirt Suit
Woman's suit of brown wool gabardine. a) Single breasted, jacket with rectangle motif carried throughout. Convertible collar with 3" points, and one under collar stop 2" from CF as shoulder yoke extends in a 2" wide rectangle parallel to collar edge. Shoulder yoke also extends to self-face the jacket, creating a 1"x 3" rectangle on the underside of the first bound button hold and button. There are 4 brown buttons with three narrow bound button holes, the second button falling at bottom of rectangle yoke as a inseam button. Pair of double welt slit pockets below shoulder within a rectangle of opposite grain within the larger rectangle in same grain as welt lips, with rectangle design lines extending over sleeve and top of it slip-stitched to mid-arm scythe. Two parallel princess seams starting from lower rectangle yoke and front under arm seam run under 8" over-sized pocket flap, narrow to define width of 4" slit pocket. Over-sized bias pocket flap is 8" x 4" with 1 1/2" x 7" vertically center rectangle insert of opposite bias grain both starting from side seam. Full length set in sleeves with one elbow dart at each under seam. At right sleeve's forearm starts a rectangle welt insert attached til 1 3/4" above cuff, where it floats above sleeve and continues as its own shape to cuff's edge and folds back 1" basted to itself. Lined in copper crepe silk. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Adrian / in /British Samek Material" b) A-line skirt of matching fabric. One inch folded waistband with triangular tab at lapped left side zipper with snap at tip and 4 sets of hook & eyes on waistband. Two 4" darts on front and two 7" darts on back. Unlined with pinked seam edges.
Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of black silk faille. The two-piece skirt consists of a jacket and skirt. The jacket is of mid-hip length, with shawl collar, long sleeves, and center-front opening which secures with three circular buttons covered with black faille and embroidered with a stylized "M" or Scorpio symbol. At upper front collarbone area are two applied strips of black faille which form "tabs", and there are similar sewn-in patches of same. Front hip pocket, and another "tab" on other hip. The skirt is street length, with similar patches and tabs. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original" Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus"
Hat
Open crown hat with olive green straw encircling front visor and headband. Ochre velvet draped over visor decorated with small white, bell-shaped flowers. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Kenneth Hopkins Original"
Hat
Hat of brown felt. The low, slightly domed crown is almost hidden by the upturned brim. At front facing of brim is large flat brown grosgrain ribbon bow. Around the base of the crown is affixed brown net veiling. The hat is unlined, with inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband. Combined designer's/retailer's label inside: "Leslie James / Designed for Sakowitz / Houston" Manufacturer's style stamp inside crown: "Midi / Imported Velour Body / Made in France"
Ballgown
Ballgown of black silk taffeta. Halter straps with neckline in modified sweetheart style with folds. Fitted, boned bodice with straight silhouette. Full length with mermaid tail ruffle of two layers of black tulle below knees. Back bustle/train of black taffeta with ruffle over four layers of black tulle; attaches to back with hook & eyes and snaps. Center back zipper closure. Designer label: Howard Greer / Beverly Hills Retailer label: Neiman-Marcus Size tag: 14
Cocktail dress
Cocktail dress of black crepe with diamond-shaped sequined accent pattern at neckline. Neckline accent is backed in tan fabric with black mousseline net in diamond cutouts. Below knee length; elbow length sleeves. Angled release pleats at front waist. Center back zipper closure; unlined. Designer Label: Howard Greer / Beverly HiIls
Cocktail dress
Cocktail dress of black net with salmon pink embroidered polka dots. A-lined silhouette. Sweetheart neckline with spaghetti straps; scooped back. Below knee length. Skirt has gathered black net under layers and is trimmed with a 5" high black satin bow at center front knee area. Bodice lined in black taffeta; body lined in black crepe; skirt lined in net. Center back zipper closure; black grosgrain petersham. Retailer label: Neiman-Marcus
Day dress
A) Day dress of oatmeal colored slubbed silk with black polka dots. Dropped waist gathers at hip line; below knee length. Center front opening of six self-covered buttons with bound buttonholes supplemented with snaps and hook & eyes at waist. Short batwing sleeves. Bodice lined in oatmeal colored silk crepe. Skirt supported with netting and lined in cream colored organza. Designer's label at left inside seam: "Galanos" Retailer's label at right inside seam: "Neiman-Marcus" b) Two-piece self-covered belt. Longer piece has self covered rectangular buckles at each end and smaller piece has 3 punch holes at each end. Belts at natural waist in large gap between buttons. Leather backing in natural color. Back stamped: "Galanos"
Dinner dress
Dinner ensemble of black alençon lace with picot edges. a) Dress. Constructed with attached hip length overblouse of black lace lined in black net. Blouse has bracelet length dolman sleeves and center back hidden snap closure; snaps around interior of bateau neckline for securing shawl to dress. Black chiffon underdress has bottom tier, straight, below knee length skirt of black lace. Center back zipper closure on under dress. Lined in black mousseline. b) Matching lace cape. Elbow length with split sides. Snaps onto neckline of dress. Center back hidden snap closure.
Dinner dress
Evening/dinner dress of black silk crepe. Jewel neckline; short sleeves with top vent and closure of two black buttons and bound buttonholes. Underarm inserted panel extends to waist; side closure of three black buttons and bound buttonholes. Full length skirt with front wrap panel and trimmed with rolled bow/fabric gathering at hip. Skirt wrap and hem bound in black satin. Flap pocket bound in satin at front left hip under skirt wrap with closure of two matching buttons and bound buttonholes. Center back closure of buttons and bound buttonholes supplemented with snap and hook & eyes on bodice and zipper below waist. Lined in black synthetic organdy. Designer label: Galanos Retailer label: Neiman-Marcus
Dress
Cocktail dress of red chiffon. Knee length; long dolman sleeves. Sheer bodice with ruched waist band. Attached under slip of matching red chiffon over red silk. Center back zipper closure. Designer Label: Howard Greer / Bruce MacIntosh Retailer Label: Marie Leavell
Hat
Hat of black straw in pancake shape with back turned up to form a fold giving semi-circular shape to hat. Small black velvet bow in back. Designer's label: "Adrian / Custom"
Picture hat
Picture hat of black felt. Low, domed crown of black felt with hatband of inserted black felt and trimmed with large white rose of white grosgrain fabric at front left. The wide, wired brim has a shallow curve downwards and is edged with a wide band of off-white grosgrain. The underside of the brim has two concentric bands of off-white grosgrain. The crown of the hat is unlined; headband of black grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label: Mae Kelley / Exclusive Hand Made Hats / Whittier, Calif.
Silk organza hat
Bergère inspired hat of black silk organza. The hat has a wide, floppy double-layer brim, the under brim of slightly stiffer black silk organza, overlaid with upper brim of same material. Low, circular crown with a folded black ribbon hatband which ties at front left with trailing ends. Headband of black grosgrain ribbon; lined in black organza. Designer label: "Galanos" Measurements: 55 cm. in diameter; 8 cm. high.
Skirt suit
Dark blue silk suit with yellow silk crepe de chine scarf. a) Jacket of self with notched collar. Long sleeves with 2" cuff with a black plastic button. A yellow band is under the cuff and it 1/2" of it peeks out. Four black plastic button enclosure center front. 2 1/4" waistband with two black plastic buttons at back. Lined in yellow silk crepe de chine. Designer Label: "Irene" b) Skirt of self is mid-calf length. Lightly gathered to 1" waistband. 7" left side zipper. Lining of dark blue silk. c) Scarf is yellow crepe de chine; 3 ' long and 7 " wide. Edges are squared off, not pointed.
Sweater set
Aqua knit sweater with matching gloves. A) Shrink style sweater: Sleeveless aqua colored fine wool knit sweater with wide rounded neckline. Scalloped aqua flannel collar embellished with sequins, beads and gold metallic thread embroidery. Narrow band of gathers between breasts. Bust darts. Wide ribbed waistband. Retailer's label at inside back collar: Allardale / Beverly Hills, California Size tag: 14 B-C) Gloves of matching aqua colored fine wool knit with aqua flannel gauntlets. The gauntlets are embroidered to match the collar of the sweater.
Skirt Suit
Ecru worsted wool two-piece suit. A: Jacket with center front opening with four beige plastic buttons with bound button holes, first two spread apart by 2" next two spread apart by 10". Collared. Motif of concentric arced inserts, 1.175" wide each, starting from shoulder point, arcing down past second button. This upside down arc repeats on the back with a rainbow meeting the shoulder's center. On front, two more arc inserts motif repeat, with the rainbow arc stretching over the smaller reversed arc between the sections of buttons. One-piece set in sleeves with double elbow darts. Lined in beige silk faille. Retailer's label at center back collar: "Neiman-Marcus" Designer's Label at front right jacket lining: "Adrian / Original" B: Unlined A-line skirt of same fabric with lapped zipper covered by triangle pointed waistband tip on the left side. Waistband 1 3/8" wide. Four darts total, two in front, two in back. Pinked edge to seam allowances. Hem tape attached to 3" wide hem edge with machine stitch, tape hand based to inside of skirt with blind hem (slip stitch) stitch.
Dress
Cocktail dress of orange and red magnolia floral printed silk.
Skirt ensemble
Ensemble of a two piece daytime suit and a coordinating silk blouse.
Cocktail dress
A) Cocktail dress of orange silk chiffon with scoop neckline and short, raglan sleeves with gathers and underarm gussets. Neckline and center top sleeves embellished with matching silk satin ribbon. Ribbon bow at center front hides zipper closure. Skirt of multilayer chiffon creates a full A-line. Knee-length; natural waist. Designer's label at right waistline: "Galanos" Retailer's label to right of designer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" B) Contour belt of leather and silk. Thin belt is covered in orange satin to match dress.
Cocktail dress
Cocktail dress of gold chiffon with gold bugle bead stripes on the smocked bodice. Capped sleeves; below knee length. Skirt has flowing outer layer of gold chiffon over straight underskirt of gold crepe covered in gold chiffon. Scarf of matching chiffon attaches at lower left of beaded bodice. Center back zipper closure with closure of snaps on beaded bodice. Retailer's label at right side seam of bodice: "Neiman-Marcus"
Day Dress
Day dress of gray and yellow windowpane plaid cotton.
Dinner dress
Dinner dress of black silk shantung. Ballerina length. Short, two-piece sleeve with high top puff. Narrow surplice neckline on bodice with notched lapel. Contoured inserted waistband. Side slit pockets. Center back zipper closure. Bodice lined in black taffeta; skirt lined in black organza. Designer label: Galanos Retailer label: Neiman-Marcus
Evening dress
Evening dress of lime green taffeta with draping and trailing large red flower accents down right side. Squared neckline with spaghetti straps and wide U-shaped back; maxi length. Boned bodice. Center back zipper closure with separate zipper on interior corset/bodice. Lined in green organza. Designer Label: Howard Greer / Beverly Hills
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