Folding fan of bone and satin. Guards and sticks of bone, intricately carved with pierced latticework. Plain off-white silk satin leaf. Chased metal bail ring at pivot with mother-of-pearl beads. Off-white silk tassel tied to bail. Inscribed on silk leaf along one guard: "Hood W. [illeg.] / June 5th /73"; other inscriptions on other guard, too fragile to examine.
Jacket of black silk satin. The jacket, formed as a basque bodice with typical close-fitting achieved by seaming, has extended front panels and is edged with ivory lace. The jacket is embellished with dark blue velvet and olive brown chenille appliques of floral and leaf forms and black jet beading. Lined in ivory silk satin. Photograph is from the exhibition Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers, held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows jacket as displayed with a period hat (Accession #: 1981.015.001) and skirt (Accession #: 1967.025.099).
Folding fan. Guards and sticks of carved and pierced ivory (bone?)with a foliage designs. The white sheer organdy leaf is hand-painted with central vignette of a garden scene of a couple greeting a woman seated on a bench. The leaf with added hand-panted border of a garland of flowers. Reverse is unadorned. No visible labels, marks or signatures. Fan has been in-expertly mended at some point previous to entering collection.
Folding fan. Guards and sticks of lightly carved ivory (bone?) with scrolling foliate designs. The leaf is of white lace. Sticks are unadorned on the reverse. No visible labels, marks or signatures. Fan has alternately been identified as Irish lace or machine-made lace, and dated 1830's or 1880-1899.
Handbag with cast and chased silver frame decorated with openwork figures of children harvesting grapes. Ball/snap closure. Silver suspension chain of alternating oval links and links formed of three flower-heads. Bag is oval shaped, black wool with petite point embroidery decoration on each side of a bouquet of trumpet shaped flowers. Pink satin lining. Hallmarked "800" on frame.
Two-tiered capelet of midnight blue/black velvet and off-white lace. Capelet extends to about small of back, and has high, standing collar trimmed in dense ruff of tightly gathered of black chiffon. Around throat, along both sides of center front opening, around hem, and on edges and hem of the wide tier (7" at center front, 8" over shoulders) is wide band of off-white floral and scroll lace, placed as an applique along edges. Lined in brown fabric. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Mme. Josse / 3 / Boulevard des Italiens / Paris"
Picture hat of black straw. The hat has a broad brim of woven black straw with an upturned outer edge which is trimmed in black velvet. The low, domed crown is also of woven black straw, with a band of black ostrich feathers around the base of the crown. One large ostrich feather plume attached to base of crown and extends out and over the back of the brim. Inside crown is black cloth lining. Sewn inside crown is black cloth label: "Mme Georgette / 11 Rue Scribe / Paris"
Pair of lady's dancing pumps of red kid leather. The shoes, designed with gently pointed toes, are of soft red fine kid leather leather with a square-ended flap at vamp/instep, and applied red satin bow at vamp. The inner sole of the shoe is a dark red quilted satin. The low heels are styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and straight across at front. Heels covered with matching leather. Sole of black leather at heel and tan on rest of shoe. Stamped in sole on one shoe: "2", on other: "4".
Cloche hat of tan linen. The off-the-face cloche has a high, domed crown embellished with white saddle stitching along seams. The brim is of the same material, folded up at front and descending down at sides and is turned down at back. At center back is a separation in the brim, with a small tan linen bow between the sections. The hat is unlined, with a brown grosgrain ribbon inner hatband inside the base of the crown. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Reproduction / Rose Descat / 22 Rue Royale / Paris"; Second label sewn to inner hatband: "Made in France"
Cloche hat of embroidered pink linen. The slightly domed crown is made of pink linen with all-over tiny white embroidered polka-dots. The matching brim is turned up at front, sewn to crown, and descends at sides, turning downwards at back. At center back the brim is split, with a bow of the same fabric affixed at the split. The hat is lined with white silk. There are no labels or tags in the hat. The hat is accompanied by a necktie/scarf of the same fabric. Original records indicate the set is probably French in origin.
Pair of gloves of kid skin leather; off-white; just below wrist length; single snap fastenings at wrist. On back of each glove, running length-wise down hand are three embroidered bands, pink and blue chevrons in diamond formation on dark blue bands. Cuffs from wrist to end are lined with black silk heavily embroidered with floral motifs in blue, pinks, reds, whites, greens, etc. in chain-stitch. Remainder of glove is unlined. Stamped inside glove: "Modèle déposé [Fr-En: Registered Design] / Paris" and "6" and part of other marks. Metal parts of the snaps have what appear to be Chinese/Japanese characters stamped into them.
Calotte with braided yellow ribbon crown with brown and dark brown knotted yarn brim. Designer's label on inside brim: "J. Suzanne Talbot / Modes / 14 Rue Royale Paris" Maker's label : "34064" Label on inside brim: "made in france"
Calotte of rust brown knit with rolled straw brim in browns and gold. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Agnes / 6 Rue St Florentin / Paris" Label above designer's label: "Made in France" Size label on inside hatband: "22 1/2"
Hat of off-white French linen. The soft crown is domed and formed of six segments. Around the base of the crown is a red linen ribbon, threaded through a series of six "belt-loops" spaced around the base of the crown at approximately where the segments join. The slightly stiffened, and quilted in a pattern of concentric circles. The hat is unlined, and has an inner hatband of off-white linen at inside base of crown. Label sewn to inner hatband: "Made in France".
Parure made of natural, brown, and black woven/plaited straw, consisting of: A) Hat. Styled as an oversized calotte (also spelled "calot") or small cloche. The domed crown is constructed of radiating segments of woven/plaited straw in bands of brown, natural/tan, and black. At the top of the crown is a circle of black straw. Slightly scalloped lower edge. Designer's(?) label inside: "Marcelle Biot / 30 Rue de Valois / Paris" and 'Made in France" Three matching bracelets: B) Natural/tan straw bracelet, with a single band of brown straw and a single band of black straw. Black metal clasp. C) Brown straw bracelet, with a single band of black straw and a single band of natural/tan straw. Black metal clasp. D) Black straw bracelet, with single band of brown straw and a single band of natural/tan straw. Black metal clasp. Each bracelet with label: "Made in France". E) Matching necklace of bands of natural/tan straw and brown straw, with thin bands of black straw. Designed as a modified "bib" necklace, wider at center and narrowing to clasp ends. Black metal clasp. F) Matching belt, with lengthwise bands of natural/tan straw and brown straw, with thin bands of black straw. Black straw "buttons" and loops. "Made in France" label.
Handbag of black silk faille with multicolored floral embroidery. Purse has round, gold frame in leaf motif and plunger closure. Gold chain handle. Peach lining with pocket. Retailer's label: " Sanger Bros. Inc. / Paris - France" Label above pocket in side of purse: "Made in France"
Handbag of glass beads of boldly colored shades of green, yellow, red, blue, pink and black in a somewhat stylized floral design. Bronze frame cast with floral forms and openwork, and set with navy blue and green cabochons. Roses on frame have remains of applied coloration. Suspension chain in rope form with spaced clusters of green and blue beads. Bag has looped and twisted fringe at bottom composed of green and black faceted beads. Pink satin lining, mostly deteriorated. Ball and socket filigree closure.
Clutch style purse of size 18 beads in paisley pattern in shades of pink, blue, peach, black and opal white. Wide brass lift lock closure includes 5 shapes of size 16 beads with repeating patterns. Lined in cream colored satin with two pockets. Finger loop of same on back side of purse at top. Maker's label on inside of purse: "Made in France / Exclusively by / Florentine"
Evening dress of embroidered silk organza with pink silk acetate lining and belt; square neckline; sleeveless with rhinestone embellished velvet straps attached by rhinestone snaps in front and back; velvet trim; three tiers with pink floral embroidery; pink velvet belt embellished with rhinestones and a velvet flower
Hat of silver metallic mesh cloth. The hat is formed as a pillbox-style turban. The cylindrical crown has a flattened top, and two long trailing bands hanging from the back. The bands are designed to wrap around the head, and clasp with integral rhinestone-set buckles. The hat is unlined. There are no labels or tags in the hat. Probably from France.
Hat of ecru lace and black horsehair. The high, slightly domed crown is formed of ecru lace, with a black satin ribbon bow to side, and a black satin band around the base of the crown, partly obscured by the lace. The wide, undulating black horsehair brim is oval, wider to sides than front to back. Inside of crown originally lined with fine, transparent black tulle, remains of which form an inner hatband at inside base of crown. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Paris / della Donna / New York". Intended for afternoon wear.
Evening coat of black and gold brocade in a large scale tropical motif. The wrap-style coat has a shawl collar of red fox fur with kimono style sleeves trimmed in fox. The coat is fully lined in gold silk velvet.
Large Handbag. Rectangular gilt frame with ball/snap closure set with cabochon green stones. Body of bag formed of red, silver, grey, and black beads in a mosaic/Turkish carpet pattern. Bottom of bag with beaded fringe matching body of bag. Lined in pale peach satin with one pocket and attached small coin purse. Sewn into lining is woven tag "Made In France"; Marked on frame "Made In France".
Cloche of pale green straw and orange velvet. Domed crown of the cloche-style hat is overlaid with orange/red velvet leaf shapes. Around the sides of the crown are applied overlapping circular panels of pale green braided straw. On the left side of hat a single straw panel is placed low so that half of it hangs below the crown. Inside of hat is lined with peach silk. Designer's label inside crown: "Dauphine / Paris / New York".
Folding-style fan of wood and paper. The plain wooden sticks are stained dark brown, with the outermost stick acting as partial guard. The paper leaf is printed on both sides, the front advertising Galleries Lafayette, with text " 'Ne Vendre Que Du Bon Le Meilleur March Possible.' / voila le principe fondamental sinclerent applique, qu a provoque le prodigieux essor / des Galeries Lafayette / seale Maisor au Monde dont le chiffre d'affaires annuel depasse le milliard de francs"; with view of seated lady with full skirt. Reverse with view of Art Deco-style lady looking in a hand mirror. Front of leaf signed "Jean / Gabriel / Domergue" Reverse of leaf signed: "Gabriel / Ferro"
Hat of striped silk satin. Formed as a baseball cap, the crown is a dome created by 5 triangular segments of cream silk satin with green and thin black stripes. The cloth is cut and arranged so the stripes run vertically to top of crown. The brim is formed as a cap's bill, larger than usual, of the same striped material, with the stripes running from crown to front edge. The hat is unlined, with a small loop sewn in to hang cap. Label inside crown: "Made in France". Made to match a 2-piece ensemble of slacks and waistcoat in the same materials.
Black nylon hat. Domed, cylindrical crown has an irregularly-shaped brim, very narrow at left side, extending out and down in back, very wide and turning up in a triangular section at right side, and extending outwards at front. The turned-up section is embellished with simulated jet beading in a stylized floral pattern. The hat is lined in black nylon. Stamped inside crown: "Patricia / Model Hats / New York and Paris"
Evening dress of orange/tangerine silk chiffon with cut velvet fish scale design in silvery white partly outlined with silver bugle beads. Sleeveless, with round scoop neck, and armholes cut to waist. Straight tubular shape with drop waist, with a swag of pleated self-fabric at left hip, trimmed with five rhinestone medallions. 1" fur trim at hem. Dress has been shortened and fur may have been added at that time. Probably originally 1918-20's style.
Beret of yellow pin stripe velvet. Lined in silk. Designer's label on inside crown under netting: "J. Suzanne Talbot / Modes / modele depose / Rue Royale . Paris, 14 Rue Royal" Tag on inside hat brim: "Made in France"
Beret of green, cerise and cream colored worsted yarn with pink pique ribbon trim and bow. Three knit loops encircle ribbon and bow on left front. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Chanel" Model number tag above designer's label: "10791(?)" Label: "Made in France"
Calotte style hat of black velvet. Crown has cut-away sections that expose net lining. At front left and right are pink and blue faceted decorative stone trim pieces edged in white pearl beads. Short black net veil with chenille dots. Stamp on inside crown: "Made in France" Designer's label: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc. / Original" Retailer's label below designer's label: "Weathered / Misses Shop / Chicago"
Three-piece ensemble of navy blue wool tweed with white silk threads. A) Cape. Falls below hips. Constructed with applied bands or plackets of self giving the appearance of pleats. No collar; rounded neckline with modified suspender self bands at neck that extend down to waist and secure to the pair of buttons on the waistband of the skirt. Padded shoulders. Lined in white satin. Remains of label, mostly illegible, in pieces, covered with crepeline. "65-67 Champ ........ Paris" B) Blouse of white satin. Collarless with piped, rounded, high neckline and string tie at front (decorative). Long, set-in sleeves gathered into cuffs with single button and tailored buttonhole at each cuff. Front with wide center and two narrow vertical pin-tucks. Center back closure with 7 circular shell/mother-of-pearl buttons and tailored buttonholes. No labels in shirt. C) Skirt. Street-length, A-line with 1-1/2 inch waistband. Two pairs of circular dark blue buttons on waistband for securing "suspenders". Left side zipper with four sets of hook-and-eyes (one missing). Simulated pleats, sewn down, with vertical strips of same fabric sewn to skirt giving illusion of further pleating. Unlined. Label on waistband to left of zipper: "Made In France"
Black felt wide flat brimmed hat with shallow crown trimmed with black grosgrain ribbon tied in a double bow at one side. Brim edged with black silk. Label on inside hatband: "Paris / Le Chapeau Chic / New York"
Hat with sloping black brim of Milan straw and royal blue knit bands forming open crown. Designer's label: "Agnes / 6 Rue St Florentine / Paris" Label attached above designer's label: "Made in France" Stamped model label under designer's label: "75,174"
Yachting cap of royal blue knit. Visor edged in white wool. White anchor insignia at brow. Unlined. Retailer's label: "Tappé / Modes / 9 West 57 St. New York" Label below retailer's label: "Made in France"
Beret of dark brown felt. Raised crown with black and orange coque feather trim on left front. Front brim of hat is rolled up to form rounded edge folds on left and right. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Odette Colson / 25, Faub. Saint-Honore / Paris - 8me" Tag attached at bottom of designer's label: "Made in France" Handwritten number under label: "80-739"
Juliet cap of black velvet with wide band of ecru crocheted lace covering all but small circular area on top. Bow of ecru crocheted lace on front of hat held in place with band of black velvet. Lined in black silk. Designer's label: " J Suzanne Talbot / modes / 14 Rue Royal Paris" Tag attached to designer's label: "Made in France"
Skimmer hat of straw and silk. The skimmer, or boater style hat has a low woven straw crown with flat top. Around the crown is a matching woven straw ribbon edged in brown silk, with a bow at back. The wide, flat brim is of woven straw, covered with brown silk matching the trimming of the band on the crown. The silk covering is quilted in a pattern of concentric bands with running wavy lines. The crown and underside of the brim are unlined, with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband at base of crown. Extending from the inner hatband are two panels of brown silk, forming a chin-strap with black cord knot fastener. A small "F" is stitched to inner hatband to indicate the front of the hat. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Paris / Maynor Hats / New York".
Turban style hat of close fitting draped gray/cream/black panne velvet gathered onto ring covered with self fabric on front. Designer's label: "Agnes / 6 Rue St Florentin" Label at bottom of designer's label: "Made in France" Stamped model label above designer's label: "89,113"
Afternoon hat of black velvet with bow of self in back. To be worn over one eye in Eugénie style. Lined in black silk. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label on inside crown: "J. Suzanne Talbot / Modes" Label on inside crown: "Made in France"
Cloche hat of wine colored felt with rose beige crushed velvet trim at upturned front and facing. Designer's label: "Florence Walton / 9.rue Saint Florentine. Paris" Tag attached to designer's label: "Made in France"
Hat of navy linen. Wide brim, stiffened with stitched trim. Flat crown with small bow of self at base. Lined in white linen. Designed for daytime spectator sportswear. Label on inside hatband: "Made in France"
Hat of royal blue velour. The crown is somewhat domed, of pieced velour, with a band of rolled dark blue satin around the base. The wide brim of matching velour is shaped to dip down and turn up slightly around the crown. The hat is unlined, with a band of dark blue grosgrain ribbon sewn in between the inner edge of the crown and the brim. Designer's label sewn inside: "Rose Descat / Paris", with a second label sewn to lower edge of designer's: "Made In France".
Calotte style hat of deep emerald green velvet with stitched, raised front. Rim of twisted velvet. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Danielle / ses chapeaux / Paris" Tag attached to designer's label: "Made in France"
Cloche style hat of fur felt in charcoal gray blending to lighter gray at top of crown. Brim turns up in back with folded tab of self as trim. Black leather belt-style hatband with red buckle. Designer label sewn onto inside silk hatband: "Cannes Barritz / Jean Patou / 7, Rue St. Florentin / Paris"
Cloche style hat of tan wool felt. Scalloped, upturned brim trimmed with tan grosgrain. Small, circular, concave piece of trim in same material added to crown as trim. One hatpin with gray felt head. Unlined. Inside of crown stamped: "Made in France" Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Made to Order Hat / Bergdorf / Goodman / Fifth Ave. at 58th St."
Toque hat of black velvet. Four bands of tricolor red-orange silk velvet at base of hat in back circle to left side and end at a point on the crown. Small elastic chin strap. Designer's label: "Madame Marie-Alphonsine Modes / 73. Champs Elysees / Paris" Label attached to top of designer's label: "Made in France" Size label to left of designer's label: "22"
Cloche style hat of royal blue felt. Wide brimmed with sunken crown. Hatband of matching blue grosgrain ribbon and band of blue feathers partially held in place by a banded slit cut through the crown as trim. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Molyneux / 5. Rue Royale / Made in France"
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