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Textile Fragment
Pre-Columbian textile fragment.
Blouse
Blouse of silk twill in pink, salmon, raspberry, olive, chartreuse, black and creme in blocked off areas with floral print and tracery.
Purse
Purse of multicolored Bargello needlepoint. The envelope-style purse is covered in silk embroidery in greens, blues, reds, pinks, black, etc., in the Florentine Bargello, edged in green wool. On one side, under flap, is rectangular section with monogram FH and date 1775 worked in embroidery. Opens to reveal 2 separate compartments, lined in green homespun wool. Silk embroidery is disintegrating to reveal canvas ground.
Textile Panel
Textile. Rectangular flax or linen woven panel with chevron-esque shapes containing animal forms in creams and rusty red/browns on browns.
Child's Ensemble
Child's dress ensemble of tan cotton with green and red/orange floral print consisting of: A) Skirt. Full length; pleated. One-inch waistband of muslin. Right side slit pocket. Center back opening; closures missing. Bottom of inside hem lined in brown glazed cotton; balance of skirt unlined. B) Bodice. Fitted with wide neckline; dropped shoulders. Neckline is trimmed with double row of fluted fabric of self. Short, puffed sleeves with caps trimmed with fluted fabric of same. V-shaped pleats in front. Center back opening closes with 9 hook & eyes. Lined in muslin. C) Fichu. Triangular panels of decreasing size applied to look like pleats. Four-inch epaulets of same with self-covered buttons at ends. Seven self-covered buttons down center back seam with evidence of three missing buttons. Lined in brown glazed cotton.
Bonnet
Bonnet of blue silk. Brim is hand-quilted in square corners and curving lines that follow the shape of the brim in even lines. The brim is composed of 3 pieces of silk fabric, which are pieced together and then quilted. Cotton used as batting material throughout. The crown is entirely quilted in rows of horizontal stitching and radiating circles. The tail has L-shaped quilting, which echoes the front edge of the tail. The chin ties are striped silk ribbons. Some areas of fabric loss and shattering on bonnet and ties.
Bonnet-style hat
Hat in bonnet style of siena-brown rough straw; heart shaped brim with ribbon bows and violets; silk ties; underbrim trimmed with light brown gathered fabric.
Baby shoes
Baby shoes of aqua kid leather trimmed in aqua grosgrain ribbon; two eyelets (missing laces); leather soles; hand-sewn; 10 1/2cm length.
Christening Gown
Christening gown of white cotton muslin. Hand made and embroidered. Gathered waist trimmed in laisse anglais. Rounded neckline with V insert of eyelet lace. Eyelet trim at wrists, neck and hem. Scalloped insert panel down front trimmed in tatted eyelet with floral embroidery and six tiers of tatted eyelet. Center back opening is pleated with three covered buttons and drawstring at waist.
Eyeglasses
Spectacles with silver wire frame and octagonally shaped lenses. Nose bridge has curled ends; temple tips on earpieces are open teardrop shaped. B) Case of textured black leather with open end. Stamped: Wm. G. Spies Jeweler and Optician 419 Market St. Steubenville, Ohio
Eyeglasses
Spectacles of silver metal with oval shaped rims; lenses missing. Case of black leather with open end. Stamped: Chas G. Lord / Manufacturing / Optician / 718 Main St. / Fort Worth, Tex.
Eyeglasses
Spectacles of copper(?) wire frames and oval shaped lenses. Right temple hinge broken and tied with black thread. B) Case of dark brown leather. Stamped: Chas. G. Lord Manufacturing Optician 718 Main St. Fort Worth, Tex.
Leather boots
Childs ankle boot of tan leather; flat leather soles; lace-up; toe cap with design stitched across it; brown fabric sides with black design in the fabric. 15cm length
Mitts
Pair of black cotton lace mitts. The wrist-length fingerless gloves are of hand-crocheted lace, in a wide mesh. Slight frill at wrist, and separate thumb. A narrow black ribbon is threaded through the cuff, one ribbon lacking.
Spectacles
Ladies spectacles with blue steel frames and oval shaped lenses. B) Case of red leather. Stamped: H. W. Hunter Optician 1132(?) Broadway(?), N.Y.
Wool hat
Hat of off-white wool yarn and beads. Hat is based on a fanchon style, consisting of a knitted, somewhat diamond-shaped piece to fit across top of head and extending down sides to the ears, with wide off-white silk ribbon ties at end of extensions. Unlike a regular fanchon, which is solely of a piece of flat lace, this cap has a deep pile of the same wool yarn over the entire surface of the cap, each piece tipped with a cylindrical frosted white bead.
Silk corset
Corset of ivory silk with lace and woven ribbon trim at top; slim boning throughout, and boning at vent seams; lace up at back and hook and eyes at front.
Baby booties
Baby booties of white kid leather with border trim of silk ribbon gathered into circles; laces up the front with silk cord; five eyelets; 11cm length.
Wedding Dress
Wedding dress of ivory tissue silk.
Bonnet-style hat
Hat in bonnet style of black silk taffeta; rounded crown with 4" deep upward brim covered with folds of fabric with binding underbrim and lower edge of bonnet with gathered bombazine; large bow at front and back with silk taffeta ribbon ties; inside of crown is brown buckram; black silk lining.
Detachable collar
Man's detachable collar. Exterior layer of ivory white (silk?) damask weave with all-over pattern of organic shapes with dotted and lined borders. Inner layer of white cotton or linen. Stamped on reverse: "Trade Ide Mark / Elite Quality" "Millport / Geo. P. Ide & Co. / U.S.A." "14 / 2417"
Detachable collar
Man's detachable collar. Exterior layer of ivory white (silk?) damask weave with pattern of horizontal wide bands containing "zig-zag" stripes, alternating with bands of four very narrow stripes. All ivory-on-ivory. Inner layer of white cotton or linen. Stamped on reverse: "Use no Starch / Snug-fit tie loop / Pat. apl'd. for." "Dupont / Geo. P. Ide & Co. / U.S.A." "14 / 4002"
Detachable collar
Man's detachable collar. Exterior layer of off-white, woven to create effect of narrow horizontal bands/stripes like grosgrain ribbon. Lining/inner layer of white cotton or linen. Stamped on reverse: "Trade Ide Mark / Elite Quality" "815" "Kerman / Geo. P. Ide & Co. Inc. / U.S.A." "16 3/4"
Detachable collar
Man's detachable collar with exterior layer of ivory white damask weave (silk?) with with pattern of paired thin vertical stripes alternating with wider stripes with "checkerboard" ivory on ivory designs. Inner layer of white cotton or linen. Stamped on reverse: "Trade Ide Mark / Elite Quality" "Elmore / Geo. P. Ide & Co. / U.S.A." "14 / 1684"
Detachable collar
Man's detachable collar. Exterior layer of off-white, woven to create effect of narrow horizontal bands/stripes like grosgrain ribbon. Lining/inner layer of white cotton or linen. Stamped on reverse: "Trade Ide Mark / Elite Quality" "815" "Kerman / Geo. P. Ide & Co. Inc. / U.S.A." "16 3/4"
Detachable collar
Man's detachable collar. Exterior layer of off-white, woven to create effect of narrow horizontal bands/stripes like grosgrain ribbon. Lining/inner layer of white cotton or linen. Stamped on reverse: "Trade Ide Mark / Elite Quality" "815" "Kerman / Geo. P. Ide & Co. Inc. / U.S.A." "16 3/4"
Wood folding fan
Folding fan of carved brown/pierced wood. Covered in brown silk with black lace edging; metal loop with embossed foliate design.
Cotton petticoat
Panel from white cotton petticoat with 4" gathered ruffle at hem over straight hem of petticoat. Flounce has four rows of pin tucks above gathered panel with three rows of three pin tucks with 4" border of lace at hem.
Girl's Dress
Girl's dress of blue calico cotton with white print. Stand up collar. Inset waist with long, gathered skirt. Long sleeves gathered at wrist with drawstrings. Center front opening with 8 button closure. Bodice lined with what may be sugar sack fabric; skirt unlined. Skirt is 33" long with 22" waist.
Boy's dress
Boy's blue and beige/white plaid linen ankle length fitted dress. Long narrow sleeves; ruffle of fabric at the wrist. Narrow turn over collar. Dress gored front and back. Bound in velvet crossed over buttoning up the front to high neck. Double ruffles at bottom of skirt. Trimmed with velvet ribbon and jet black buttons. Lined in muslin. Plaid fabric is indigo dyed, and most likely velvet cording is also indigo dyed.
Child's Dress
Child's dress of black & tan woven cotton check/plaid. Full-length, with high, rounded collar. Set in black taffeta full-length sleeves with wide cuffs of the black/tan check, secured with two mother of pearl buttons each. Natural waist. Hem with wide band of ruffled black taffeta and a plain band of black taffeta running slightly above hem. Patch pocket at right hip composed of plaid panels formed as a "vest", with black taffeta ruffle filling in center, and three non-functioning circular mother of pearl buttons on slight curve following edge of "vest" front non-functioning opening. Center back opening with 9 circular mother of pearl buttons and hook & loop at neckline.
Child's Dress
Child's dress of tan flannel with front panel of brown velvet. Long sleeves with 3" cuff of brown velvet. Turndown collar of brown velvet with pointed ends and neckline trimmed in ivory lace; collar partially detaches on right and secures with a hook & eye. Patch pockets at sides of brown velvet. Front panel has 10 tortoise shell buttons to left of panel and right side opening of 11 matching buttons with barred buttonholes. Gored in back with six small pleats at bottom of back. Hem of garment has pleated 4-1/2" border of self trimmed with 1-1/2" band of brown velvet. Lined in tan cotton.
Collar
Collar / blouse breast panel of red wool (possibly trade cloth or Stroud cloth from England) with beading. Possibly Algonquin or Iroquois. Oblong, slightly rectangular “O” created with U-shaped panel and rectangle of newer fabric added at one end. Fragments of black silk grosgrain ribbon along inside and outside perimeter, accented every ½” with three light blue and one dark blue seed beads sewn at a slight angle. Organic, floral all-over design created with blue, green, yellow, and pink seed beads applied primarily in rows of three differing colors, symmetrical on the U-shaped panel. U-shaped panel unlined, rectangular panel lined in twill fabric of natural material.
Fan
Folding fan with mother-of-pearl sticks and guards. Leaf of white needlepoint lace backed with cream satin. Silver-colored "U" shaped bail ring at bottom.
Folding fan
Folding fan with mother-of-pearl sticks and guards. Leaf of white needlepoint lace backed with champaign satin. Silver-colored "U" shaped bail ring at bottom. Measurements: Guard: 27 cm long x 2.8 cm wide; Open: 50 cm across
Child's Dress
Child's dress of black wool with red paisley trim. Full length dress, with turned down collar of paisley print. Long sleeves with 4" cuffs trimmed in matching paisley print. Center front opening with 15 nonfunctional paisley covered buttons with hook & eyes underneath. Side pockets trimmed in paisley print. Center back panel is gathered at waist to give slight bustle effect and is belted in paisley print with oval buckle in black ribbed fabric. Lined in brown polished cotton.
Shoes
Pair of shoes of ivory kid leather. Rounded toes, with stitched detailing on tongues and with applied leather bow at instep with many "loops" creating large "poof". Shoes of ivory kid leather. Short, modified Louis heel covered with same leather. Stamped inside left Shoe: "Mayer & Stern/ Phila. / Centennial / 1776-1876"
Black straw hat
Hat in bonnet style of black straw with black satin ribbon ties with violet flowers attached to crown; soft black tulle on the underbrim; replacement ties of black grosgrain ribbon at center back of lower crown and ties underchin.
Boots
Ladies lace-up boots of black leather with stacked heels. Pointed toe with light broguing. Stamp on sole: "[illegible] / Made in Boston U.S.A."
Boots
Pair of boots or "high button shoes" of black leather.
Boots
Ladies lace-up boots of brown leather with low stacked heel. Slightly pointed toe cap with light brouguing. Sewn-in fabric label: "The A.E. Little / Shoe $12.50 / Reg. U.S. Pat. Off." Stamped on sole: "The A. E. Little / Arch Supporting Suspension / Construction"
Boy's Suit (Jacket, Pants, and Shirt)
Boy's suit. Coat jacket of red wool. Black revers trimmed in black braid with sailor style collar. Long sleeves trimmed with black braid. Slit pocket at left breast with black braid. Ten black silk jacquard covered buttons. Lined in black silk. Retailer's label at center back neckline: "Sanger Bros. / Dallas / Waco" Matching trousers of red wool with black trim on sides seams. Closure of black covered buttons at sides of waistband. Cotton interior waistband with buttonholes for securing shirt to trousers. Stamp on back left waistband (mostly illegible). Accompanying shirt of red silk front panel with ivory damask cotton back panel. Sleeveless. Shirt has ruffles down center front placket with 3 circular white decorative buttons. Pointed collar. Center back opening with 3 circular, white buttons and tailored buttonholes. Shirt has 7 additional buttons around hem which attach to trousers. Front panel lined in matching ivory damask cotton.
Cape
Burnoose-style cape of lavender wool flannel. Mid-skirt length front and back, rounded at bottom to be shorter on each side. Fitted at shoulders. Attached hood gathered around face by use of ribbon ties woven through satin bound buttonholes around border of hood (ribbon missing). Center front opening and hem are trimmed with wide band of pastel green cording in scroll design. Closure of matching satin ribbon ties at neckline. Lined in pastel green satin.
Child's Dress
Child's dress of taupe cotton/silk trimmed in turquoise silk. Flair silhouette with dropped, pleated waist having hip belt effect, and pleats at hem and down center front. Center back opening with 7 turquoise silk covered buttons and tailored buttonholes. Short sleeves with lace at hem. Squared neckline. Lined in brown mercerized cotton.
Court vest
Chinese floor-length vest made in the same style as a court robe but sleeveless. Mandarin collar. Body of vest is brocaded silk. Trim and collar contain much and fine silk hand embroidered design motifs.
Day Dress
Day dress ensemble.
Ensemble - Bodice and Skirt
Ensemble of green and blue plaid cotton with collar and buttons of navy blue velvet. Ensemble consists of: A) Bodice. Waist is fitted with fastening of nine velvet covered buttons and tailored buttonholes, snap at neckline and two hook&eyes at hem. High stand-up collar of velvet. Long sleeves gathered with feather stitching; 6" fitted cuffs. Lined in brown polished cotton. B) Skirt. Full length; gathered on 1" waistband of black cotton with closure of two hook & eyes. Back panel for bustle has waistband of brown polished cotton and ties. One slit pocket at right side seam. 24" waist. Unlined.
Little boy's dress
Little boy's dress of white nainsook with dropped waist and slightly gathered short skirt. Tucked front and back and lavishly laced with machine crotchet lace inserts. Short sleeves with tucks and lace at cuffs. Lace trimmed round neckline. Center back closure of hidden self-covered buttons under placket. Size 2 years.
Muslin cap
Receiving cap made of white muslin with white lace in front at bottom rim and at center back.
Reticule
Reticule. Drawstring handbag/purse of black knit with openwork band along top through which drawstring is threaded. Running around center of bag are three horizontal bands of blue beads bordered by silver/gold lined beads. Lower part of the bag is completely covered by horizontal bands of silver/gold lined beads and blue beads. Bottom of bag with large sphere covered with blue beads from which hangs tassel of silver/gold lined bead loops. Unlined. Has been dated 1880-1890 or ca. 1916.
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