Hat of black silk organza. Overall effect is turban-like. Hat is formed with bias organza draped over calotte cap. Fabric drapes across back and is turned under at center back. 1-1/4" wide satin bow 2" above lower edge at center front. Lined with netting and has black grosgrain ribbon inner headband with comb at front for securing hat to wearer's head.
Suit hat of white felt. Round crown with 2-3/4" wide brim curved upward on left side and downward on right side. One inch wide black grosgrain ribbon hat band that ties in a bow on right side. Lined in white netting with white grosgrain inner headband. Inside crown stamped: "Feutre / Fléchet"
Hat of white organza. High pillbox crown, 4" deep. Bottom edge of crown encircled with 3" wide bias organdy that ties in large bow at center front. Lined in white silk with white grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Covered wires at sides for securing hat to wearer's head.
Suit hat of black velour. Rounded 4" deep crown. 2" wide front upward turned brim. 1/2" wider at sides, turning downward at center back. Has large black ostrich feather tassel at center back. Lined in netting with gray grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Comb at center front for securing hat to wearer's head.
Black satin toque hat. Cylindrical in form, with sides curving down along ears/temples. Slightly domed at top, and with an ornament at front consisting of a black satin bow and a group of curled black feathers. Label inside at back: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V / Paris"
Hat of black velvet. The hat has a circular, slightly domed, crown completely covered in black velvet. At the front is attached a rhinestone and glass(?) brooch formed as firework spray. The central iridescent faceted stone is surrounded by rays or arms of lines of rhinestones simulating diamonds. Some rays arc over the brooch, some hang down. Most are only partly rigid, so that as the wearer moves the rays shimmer and the stones catch the light. The crown is lined in black fabric, with a black grosgrain ribbon running along the inner lower edge. Attached to the inner ribbon band is a plastic comb to help secure the hat to the wearer's head. No labels. Donor attributed the brooch to Balenciaga. Alternatively attributed to Robert Goossens of Paris, who is known to have supplied Balenciaga.
Hat of leopard fur. Similar to a baseball cap, the hat has a pillbox style crown with a crescent-moon shaped visor / brim at front, both completely covered in leopard fur. Around the base of the crown is a black leather hatband. The interior of the crown is lined in a cream brocade cloth, while the visor is lined in leopard. Along the interior base of the crown is a dark brown grosgrain ribbon band. No labels.
Hat of moss green "plush" velvet. The derby-style hat has domed cylindrical crown with indentations at front and slight crease along crown. Narrow brim, rolled upwards at sides and back. To left of center front is small attached "fan" of various types and colors of feathers. Inside crown is attached small length of black grosgrain ribbon to maintain the front indentations, and a band of black grosgrain ribbon along inside base of crown. Stamped inside crown: Feutre Flechet.
Hat of reddish-pink wool. The derby style hat has a domed crown made of four sections of cloth that meet at center. Each section has chevrons of stitching, which point towards the center of the crown, giving a subtle quilted effect. Narrow brim rolls upwards at sides and back. A black suede(?) bow is applied to base of crown at center left. Inside base of crown is a band of pink grosgrain ribbon. Sewn to inner ribbon band is maker's label: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris" and label "Made in France"
Cocktail hat of violet silk satin. The hat is formed of a low, cylindrical, flat-topped pillbox-style crown covered in drapes of violet/purple silk satin fabric. At center front/top of the crown are two large sculptural stiffened loops of the fabric. Crown is lined in cream fabric. Along inside lower edge of crown is a cream grosgrain ribbon band. No labels. Donor stated: "...worn on back of head with upstanding loops in front, made for a grey lace three-quarter cocktail dress..."
Hat of black silk chiffon. The hat is formed from a cylindrical pillbox style hat surmounted by a conical section that is folded back and flares out to form an extension behind the hat. Where the surmounting piece meets the pillbox is a black bow formed from the same cloth. Inside of crown is lined in stiff black netting, and has a black grosgrain ribbon running along the base of the crown. A small plastic comb is sewn in front of hat to inner ribbon to secure it to wearer's head. No labels. The donor records that "... Balenciaga showed it with dress and sleeveless coat..."
Hatlet/hair ornament of black silk. Designed as a stylized bow shape created from a tube of black silk, the open ends are stuffed to be open, and the whole is folded and sewn down, and mounted on a small plastic comb to secure it to the wearer's head. No labels.
Jacket of white re-embroidered St. Gallen lace. Knee-length, center front opening with three snaps. Bracelet length sleeves. Collarless, with rounded neckline with scallops following the lace. Unlined. Designer's label at inside right under-arm: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris". With accompanying belt/sash of white satin. Reinforced at center, but single thickness at ends, which tie.
Mushroom hat of red/orange baku straw. Uniquely cut crown is square with points at front and back. Four side panels are formed off of sides of square crown. Lined in white gauze material with red/orange grosgrain ribbon inner headband.
Picture hat of light beige finely woven straw. The domed crown is encircled at base by a rolled tube of the same straw, into which at front is twined the stem of a beige silk satin rose. The wide, slightly floppy brim is strengthened at brim by rolling up and over. The hat is unlined, with inner beige grosgrain ribbon hatband, and two small elastic cords at sides to help secure combs/pins to help hold hat to wearer's head. No labels.
Pillbox style hat of mustard yellow dyed Persian lamb (aka astrakhan). The short, cylindrical crown has a flat, inset top of brown velvet, and slightly bowed sides of yellow curly Persian lamb. The hat is lined in a bronze silk(?), and has inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband and a brown elastic cord to help secure it to wearer's head. No labels.
Pillbox hat of black silk faille. The cylindrical crown is flat at top, and has one large ruby red silk rose at center front of the side. Lined in black satin, with a single comb inside to secure hat to wearer's head. No label in hat.
Brown velvet pillbox cocktail hat. The low, circular crown of the hat is slightly domed. At front of hat is pinned a large 3-dimensional pear-shaped openwork jeweled ornament of gold wire set with various colors and shapes of stones. Inside of hat lined in black cloth. Around inside lower edge of crown is brown grosgrain ribbon band. Sewn to inner band is a plastic comb to help secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner ribbon band: "Eisa". The jeweled ornament is attributed to Robert Goossens of Paris, who is known to have supplied Balenciaga. Donor notes of this hat: "...to wear with short black cocktail dresses."
Pillbox hat of black velvet. The low, cylindrical, slightly domed hat is completely covered in black velvet. Affixed to the center front of the hat is a roughly fan-shaped aigrette of simulated gems and metallic braid with a surmounting spray of white feathers. The crown is lined in black fabric, and has a black grosgrain ribbon running along the inside bottom edge. Sewn to the inner ribbon is a plastic comb to secure the hat to the wearer's head. No labels. The aigrette is attributed to Robert Goossens, of Paris, who is known to have supplied to Balenciaga.
Hat of black silk tulle and satin in the form of a low pillbox of black silk tulle, tapering slightly to the shallow-domed crown. On the right side is a cascade of dyed green ostrich feathers. No designer's label.
Charcoal gray wool two-piece suit. (a) Jacket: Fitted jacket of gray diamond twill wool; V-neckline with notched collar and peaked lapels; full-length, two piece, set in sleeves; lapped center front opening with two round, black, plastic buttons and bound buttonholes with snaps between buttons; fronts have shoulder and waist darts; two pairs of faux pocket flaps with buttons on fronts at bust and hip; back has low-slung, self fabric belt buttoned on above two faux vents at hem; fully lined in gray silk. (b) Skirt: Matching princess line, knee length skirt with narrow rolled waistband; straight hip yoke all around; inverted box pleat falls from yoke at center back; offset left side back zipper closure supplemented by one hook&eye closure on waistband; hem is faced with gray silk; fully lined in gray silk.
Two-piece suit of black and ivory plaid wool with black silk blouse. (a) Jacket: Short unfitted jacket of black and ivory windowpane plaid wool; V-neckline with standard notched collar and short lapels.;3/4 length sleeves cut in one with jacket body supplemented by single triangular gusset under arm; lapped centerfront opening with three round, plastic, ivory buttons and bound buttonholes; front has a large pair of faux pocket flaps at lower chest level; fully lined in white silk. (b) Blouse: Semi-fitted short black silk faille blouse with jewel neckline; 3/4 length sleeves are cut in one with blouse body and supplemented by single triangular shaped gusset under arm; centerfront opening laps left over right with four round, black, plastic buttons and bound buttonholes with one snap at neck; folded hem; facings and hem interfaced with black silk organza. Label stitched at bottom of back neck facing. (c) Skirt: Matching plaid semi-tailored, knee length skirt with narrow rolled waistband; slight gathers at front waist; offset left side front zipper closure supplemented by single hook&eye closure on waistband; folded hem; fully lined in white silk.
Two-piece gray faille moire wool and nylon suit. Jacket is long, with wide notched collar, is double breasted, has bound button holes, and buttons below waist. It has a sculptural double-breasted front panel, that maintains a vertical linear center front, rounded shape visually flanks stomach area. The skirt is straight; slightly below knee length.
Suit of brown and black wool tweed consisting of jacket, skirt, and vest. a) Jacket: princess line jacket of black and brown wool tweed with ivory slubs running through fabric; V-neckline with narrow notched collar and lapels; full-length sleeves are cut with the jacket body and have two triangular shaped gussets under the arm; sleeves are rolled up to form 1-1/2 cuffs; button front closure; buttons of black crocheted cord surrounding a round faceted black gem. b) Skirt of self fabric with self buttons down center-front; mid-length. c) Vest of self fabric with fabric covered buttons down center-front; fitted; approximately 1" wide shoulder straps.
Light and charcoal gray two-piece daytime skirt suit with leather belt. Fitted jacket of light gray heavy weight wool, having a V-neckline with moderate shawl collar. 3/4 length sleeves are cut in one with jacket body and supplemented by one triangular shaped gusset under the arm. Lapped centerfront opening with two large, round, gray plastic buttons and bound buttonholes supplemented by single hook&eye at waist seam. One pair of faux pocket flaps at bust level. Leather belt. Plain slim skirt of dark charcoal gray wool, just below knee-length.
Toque of black satin. Pillbox-like hat has cylindrical crown, slightly domed, and is completely covered in black satin. At front, near base of crown, is a black satin bow from which rises a spray of black feathers. Interior of crown fully lined in black satin, with a black grosgrain ribbon band at base of crown. Sewn to the inner ribbon band is a plastic comb to secure the hat to the head of the wearer. No labels.
Trilby hat of black velvet. Designed with a sculpted crown, more vertical at back and sloping at front and sides, with slight dome at top, the hat has a narrow brim at front angled somewhat downwards, while at sides and back the brim curves upwards sharply. Top-stitching accents running up center front of hat, along top, along back facing of brim, and along edge of brim. Underside of brim is faced in same velvet, while the crown is unlined. Inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. No labels.
Dress of black wool with black leather trim. The street-length dress has a standup collar trimmed in snaps. Front opening is leather trimmed and has 5 self-covered snaps. Detachable front skirt panel is edged along top with black leather trim and secured with 5 self-covered snaps. Bracelet length sleeves trimmed with snaps at cuff. Back zipper. Fully lined in black satin. Handwritten label on inside back seam: "Pierre Balmain Fall 1955"
Parure made of natural, brown, and black woven/plaited straw, consisting of: A) Hat. Styled as an oversized calotte (also spelled "calot") or small cloche. The domed crown is constructed of radiating segments of woven/plaited straw in bands of brown, natural/tan, and black. At the top of the crown is a circle of black straw. Slightly scalloped lower edge. Designer's(?) label inside: "Marcelle Biot / 30 Rue de Valois / Paris" and 'Made in France" Three matching bracelets: B) Natural/tan straw bracelet, with a single band of brown straw and a single band of black straw. Black metal clasp. C) Brown straw bracelet, with a single band of black straw and a single band of natural/tan straw. Black metal clasp. D) Black straw bracelet, with single band of brown straw and a single band of natural/tan straw. Black metal clasp. Each bracelet with label: "Made in France". E) Matching necklace of bands of natural/tan straw and brown straw, with thin bands of black straw. Designed as a modified "bib" necklace, wider at center and narrowing to clasp ends. Black metal clasp. F) Matching belt, with lengthwise bands of natural/tan straw and brown straw, with thin bands of black straw. Black straw "buttons" and loops. "Made in France" label.
Hat of gold felt. Alpine adaptation style sport hat with sunken crown. Brown grosgrain ribbon hatband and orange pheasant quill trim. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer label: "Blanche & Simone / Paris . 1 Rue de la Paix 1 . Paris"
Dress of black cotton net embroidered with red, white, tan, brown, green and gold floral designs. Gathered scooped neckline interlaced with narrow, pale green silk grosgrain ribbon and scalloped and embroidered organdy ruffling, which is also used at wrist, waist, hip line and hem. Gathered ankle-length skirt. Left side zipper with hook & eye on lining and snaps on outer net layer. Skirt has additional under layer of black net. Bodice and skirt lined with silk chiffon; black grosgrain ribbon petersham with hook & eye at waist. Designer's label at center back waist: "Christian Dior / Paris / Made In France / Printemps-Ete 1978" and stamped "0I0052" Label attached at base of designer's label: "Made In France" Neiman Marcus size and content label attached at bottom of previous two labels.
Two-piece ensemble of black satin. Blouse of wrap style, with surplice neckline squared at across back and front to collar bones, plunging into a V at front, and with long sleeves. Neckline, hem, and sleeves edged in 2" wide band of trapunto quilting work consisting of 6 rows of stitching. Long sleeves have 3" zippers at cuffs. 1-inch wide attached belt ties in back. Unlined. No labels in bodice. Matching skirt. Black, below-knee length, with narrow waistband into which skirt is gathered. Left side zipper, with hooks and eyes at waistband. Unlined. Inside Label, typewritten on cloth tape: " JUPE 43 011020 NEIMAN MARCUS" or possibly "JUPE 43 OTTO 20 NEIMAN MARCUS"
Evening dress of champagne hand appliqued lace over fine net. A) Fitted bodice with jewel neckline. Long, set-in sleeves with 6 self-covered buttons and loops at hem. Center back opening with 13 snaps. Lined in extra layer of net. B) Dress with strapless bodice of net covered in champagne organza. Street length, with skirt of three tiers of matching lace. Center back closure of hook & eyes. Waist band of 3" pink grosgrain ribbon which forms a bow at the center back and closes with hook & eyes and snaps. Bodice is reinforced with net "boning" and skirt is lined in champagne organza.
Suit of black wool consisting of: Jacket of almost hip-length, with no collar; double breasted, with V neckline and 4 buttons center front, in rows of two. Two flap pockets front; two bust darts; Long sleeves with single button cuffs. Built-in shoulder pads, and fully lined. Designer's label at inside back neck: "Christian Dior / The Suit / Paris New York" Care label below Designer's label: "Dry Clean / Made in U.S.A." Content label at side seam: "100% / Pure Wool"; "Professionally / Dry Clean / Low Moisture / Steam Press" Skirt. Calf length, with narrow waistband. Knife pleated, with side zipper and button. Unlined.
Cloche style hat of black Milan straw cloth with small, slightly pointed front brim. Hat is folded across width of crown towards front. Narrow black velvet ribbon trim meeting to form a bow at front with wreath of folded ribbon at base of bow. Unlined with elastic band to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Louise Bourbon (barely legible) / 13 Rue Royale Paris" Tag attached to designer's label: "Made in France"
Pillbox like hat of burnt sienna colored velvet. Standing brim and self bow. Top knot of self as trim. Crown close fitting like a calotte. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label on inside hatband: " Erik Braagaard / Paris / 8 rue St. Florentin" Label attached to top of designer's label: "Made in France" Model label under designer's label (partly illegible): "00 314"
Hat of black felt, brimless toque style. Cylindrical crown, rounded at top shoulders with extending cockscomb of three tiers extending upwards. Designer's label: "Bruyere / 4, Rue de Rondovi_Paris" Tag above designer's label: "Made in France"
Pair of women's sandals of silver metallic leather. Designed as "gladiator style" sandals, with six narrow silver leather criss-crossed or interwoven straps at front over vamp, and six more similar straps extending around ankle and originating from vertical band at heel. 5" zipper along heel band. Designer's label on both sides of sole: "Barbara Bui" Impressed on underside of sole: "Made in Spain" and "40". Attached sticker under sole showing pictograms indicating which parts of shoe are leather.
Day dress of bright yellow linen. Sleeveless with jewel neckline; contrasting, darker yellow top-stitching. Empire waist. Two paddle shaped patch pockets at sides with 1-1/4" non-functional buttons covered in white vinyl set in "handle" of each "paddle". Center back invisible zipper with hook & eye. Lined in bright yellow satin synthetic, with narrow band of pale yellow lace along selvage edge of fabric. Designer's label at center back to left of zipper: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York" Care label at inside back below zipper: "Dry Clean / Only" Union label by care label. Manufacturing label at inside center back below zipper: Order 2; 6764 / Style 10(?) / Size 10 / Remarks [blank], partly over-stamped "235 10"
Dress of cream woven silk. Below knee length with 13" side slits. Long sleeves. Standing neckline with left side curving to asymmetrical decorative trim embellished with 5 large circular black plastic buttons ending at natural waist at center front. Center back invisible zipper with 2 hook & eyes. Lined in cream synthetic fabric. Designer's label at back neckline to left of zipper: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York"
Dress of bright lime green wool. Knee-lenght and sleeveless, with a high neckline ornamented with 6 rows of topstitching. Empire waisted, with the lower portion of dress split into four long panels, scalloped to form petals with quilted, topstitched edges. Center back zipper with two hook & eyes. Upper portion of dress lined in lime colored acetate. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York" Retailer's label beneath designer's label: "Marie Leavell"
Ensemble consisting of three pieces. Full-length bodystocking is of heavy ivory wool knit, in a ribbed pattern running vertically throughout body and legs, and horizontally around arms. The garment has a turtle-neck and wide flaring cuffs at legs. Center back zipper opening from top of turtle-neck to mid-back. The black double knit wool micro-mini-skirt has four over-sized belt loops with pointed ends, and center back zipper closure. The ensemble includes a wide black patent-leather belt which secures with concealed snaps. Bodystocking has two labels. Designer's label inside at back near zipper: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York"; Material/size label on opposite side: "100% / Wool / L" The skirt has no labels. The belt is stamped on reverse: "12 1851" From the Fall 1969/1970 season. Records indicate that the ensemble was originally offered in the Maisonette Room of Neiman-Marcus.
Box style jacket of brown suede. Wide pointed collar and lapels. Long sleeves. Asymmetrical closing at center front with large appliqued circle patch pocket at right front and 2 large metallic silver buttons with bound buttonholes. Closure reinforced with two large snaps on waistband. Four 12" ties at waist band with1-1/2" diameter suede circles at ends. Lined in brown synthetic fabric. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York / Made in France" Retailer's label at right front opening: "Neiman-Marcus / Trophy Room" Label at left shoulder: "Made in France (rest illegible)"
Jumper of chocolate brown jersey wool. Below knee length, with rounded neckline. Sleeveless, with squared armholes which have plackets over shoulders which extend down front to waistline and form opening for pockets. Six belt loops of same fabric. Center back hidden zipper with hook & eye. Lined in dark gray synthetic fabric. Designer's label at back right shoulder: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York" Retailer's label at back left shoulder: "Maisonnette / Neiman-Marcus" Union label and size tag attached to back seam. With belt of tan patent leather with brass buckle; 1-1/2" wide. Stamped: "Pierre Cardin / 10 / Genuine / Patent Leather / 715"
Mini dress of bright red wool jersey knit. The tubular mini dress has a rounded neckline and short sleeves. Black, shiny vinyl trim at neckline, sleeve hem, lower hem, and in the form of six Pierre Cardin bullseye trademarks arranged in a triangle from natural waist to lower hem. At center back are hook and eye and zipper closure. Dress is unlined. Designer's label: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York" Care label: "The vinyl trim / on this garment / has been specially treated / to make dry cleaning possible".
Suit of cream silk gaberdine(?) consisting of: A) Jacket. Hip-length; box style. Bermuda collar and yoke which covers jacket front top, makes into epaulet-like treatment at shoulder, and sailor-like collar in back; geometrically shaped with white snaps at corners. Center front of jacket fastens all the way down with white snaps. Full-length dolman sleeves. Back has center seam and two darts which start 2 1/2 inches under yoke and extend to waist. Fully lined in white synthetic fabric. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Pierre Cardin / Paris / Made in France" B. Skirt of matching fabric. Slightly gathered into 1"waistband. Street length; slightly A-lined. Center back fastens with hook, snap and zipper. Fully lined in white synthetic fabric.
Dinner dress of printed silk organza. The dress is composed of two parts. The caftan-like outer layer of the dress consists of a square silk organza cocoon printed in psychedelic motifs in purples, blues, pinks and chartreuse. It has a high rounded neckline with center back opening secured with six loops and covered buttons. There are applied flat cuffs at the wrist openings and waist-level slits at center front to accommodate the sash. There is a center front slit from hem to knee-level. The inner dress is a matching, full-length, sleeveless sheath in printed silk of the same design. It has a high rounded neckline with center back zipper closure from neck to hip with a single hook-and-eye closure at the neckline. The outer caftan and inner sheath are joined at the neckline. There is a printed silk organza sash of the same fabric that meets at center front and secures with two hook-and-eye closures and has self ties to disguise closure. The sash is swing tacked at the back. There is a center front slit from the hem to knee-level. Lime green silk panels are inset at sideseams, running from the underarm to the hem, and may be later additions to the garment. The dress is fully lined in green silk crepe. Designer's label located inside left center back, beside the zipper: Pierre Cardin / Paris New York". Retailer's label located inside right center back, beside the zipper: "Maisonette / Neiman-Marcus"
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