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Calotte of rust brown knit with rolled straw brim in browns and gold. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Agnes / 6 Rue St Florentin / Paris" Label above designer's label: "Made in France" Size label on inside hatband: "22 1/2"

Dress of brown/beige coffee-colored wool.

Bright red/orange wool dress and coat ensemble.

Blouse of ecru gaberdine wool. Convertible collar. Sleeveless with wrapped closure on left with 5 hook & eyes. Slightly fitted. Fully lined in cream colored silk.

Dinner dress and jacket ensemble of black wool; (a) Jacket: Short princess line black wool jacket; V-neckline with wide notched collar and wide lapels; full-length, set in, two piece sleeves; asymmetrical lapped front opening with one large, round, filligreed button with rhinestones and bound buttonhole; fully lined in black silk. Label stitched inside back neck below collar. (b) Dress: Matching sleeveless knee length dress with V-neckline in front due to surplice styled opening; fronts secure with four snaps and four hook&eyes; seam detail around bust; back neckline is square between straps; waistline seam with skirt gathering all around; lapped center-front opening in skirt with single hook&eye and two snaps; folded hem; fully lined in black silk. Label stitched inside on lining at right side seam. Size 12 BALENCIAGA, Paris

Dinner dress and jacket ensemble of black wool. a) Jacket: Short princess line black wool jacket; V-neckline with wide notched collar and wide lapels. Full-length, set in, two piece sleeves. Asymmetrical lapped front opening with one large, round, filigree button with rhinestones and bound buttonhole Fully lined in black silk. Designer label stitched inside back neck below collar: Balenciaga / 10, Avenue George V. Paris Couture number: 62048 b) Dress: Matching sleeveless knee length dress with V-neckline in front due to surplice styled opening. Fronts secure with four snaps and four hook&eyes; seam detail around bust; back neckline is square between straps. Waistline seam with skirt gathering all around; lapped center-front opening in skirt with single hook&eye and two snaps. Folded hem; fully lined in black silk. Designer label stitched inside on lining at right side seam: Balenciaga / 10, Avenue George V. Paris Couture number: 62059

Dress ensemble of black ribbed silk. a) Bolero jacket of black ribbed silk. Waist length, double breasted with 4 circular plastic black buttons and bound buttonholes. Notched lapel; bracelet length sleeves. Lined in black silk. Evidence of label removed. b) Dress of black ribbed silk. Collarless rounded neckline; sleeveless. Straight skirt, elasticized waist. Back zipper closure with small tie belt of same fabric attached at waist. Back of bodice lined in black silk; balance of dress unlined.

Dress of black wool crepe. Bows at sides. Hook & eye closure curved across back with 3/4 sleeves. Bateau neckline. Unlined.

Cocktail dress of black silk faille peau de soie. Short sleeves. Vertical rouched gather down center back of skirt with bow of self at top and bottom of gather.

A) Dress of beige ribbed cotton blend (orig card states wool). Boat neckline. Short sleeves. Simulated front opening with two circular beige buttons. Patch pocket at lower right with simulated flap. Side zipper. Unlined. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus". B) Belt. Wide gray soft leather belt. Single button closure. Fringed ends. Label on back: "Made in France".

Daytime dress ensemble of lavender bouclé wool. a) Jacket of lavender bouclé wool. Short waist and bracelet length, set-in sleeves. Single breasted with one circular purple plastic button and bound buttonhole with inner hook & loop. Notched collar. Faux flap pockets at hemline. Lined in purple silk. Retailer's label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus" b) Daytime dress of lavender bouclé wool. Sleeveless; knee-length. Center front opening with alternating snaps and hook & eye closure. Rounded neckline. Lined in purple silk. c) Self tie belt attached to dress. 1" wide.

Ensemble of oatmeal colored wool tweed: a) Jacket of beige and black wool tweed with V-neckline with standard notched collar and wide lapels; short, princess seams; 3/4 length, set in, two piece sleeves; double breasted opening with four round, plastic, beige buttons and two bound buttonholes supplemented by single large covered snap inside lap at waist; fully lined in beige silk. Label stitched inside back neck below collar. b) Dress of same; sleeveless; falling just below the knee; deep rounded neckline; empire waist seam; straight skirt has slight gathers in front; left side underarm zipper closure supplemented by single hook&eye closure; folded hem; armhole and neck facings; brassiere strap keepers snap inside shoulders; unlined.

Ballgown of pink silk satin. Strapless edged in a band of same. High waist. Very full balloon/bubble skirt, heavily gathered at waist. Wide vertical pleated panel attaches at waist and extends down and under front of skirt creating a slight pick up with bow at waist. Bodice is boned and lined in crepe silk. Inner panels of horsehair and hoop for support. Bodice has center back zipper which continues as inner skirt zipper and is concealed with a hook and eye and small bow at top. Skirt has snaps at center back.

Evening gown of black crepe with maroon sequin trim. Full-length. Bodice of thin net covered with swirling pattern of magenta purple sequins. Rounded neckline. Short sleeves with shoulder pads. Empire waist has set-in waistband with added butterfly-shaped panel below set-in panel on front. Flared skirt, bias-cut. Left side opening (closure missing); bodice has center front opening with 5 snaps and hook & eye at neckline. Unlined. Designer's label at inside waist: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris" "Made in Paris" label sewn below designer's label.

Red leaf hat. Rounded conical hat of netting partly covered with red and pink silk leaves. Inside the hat, which has aspects of both a cloche and a toque, at the base of the crown, is a band of red grosgrain ribbon. Sewn into the ribbon band is designer's label: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris".

Sky blue two-piece suit of raw silk. (a) Short sky blue silk jacket. Wide V-neckline with wide notched collar and lapels. 3/4 length sleeves cut in one with jacket body supplemented by two triangular shaped gussets under the arm. Lapped center front opening with one large, round, plastic, pebbly textured, light blue button and inseam (yoke seam) buttonhole supplemented by single snap and hook&eye. Fronts have bias cut yoke which cuts across bust line. Lower front pieces are also bias. Self fabric belt at waist goes through holes in front and side panel seams and ties just around the fronts, leaving back straight. Vents at hem below belt holes. Fully lined in blue silk. Designer's label stitched inside back neck below collar: "Balenciaga / 10, Avenue George V. Paris" Couture label under designer's label: "41.481 (?-number illegible) Tag attached to bottom of designer's label: "Made in France" (b) Matching straight, knee length skirt gathered into a 1-1/2" folded waistband. Inseam pockets at sides lined in blue silk. Left side zipper closure supplemented by four hook&eye closures on waistband. Folded hem. Unlined. Tag on waistband: "Made in France"

Gray suit with attached brown suede belt. (a) Jacket: Short princess line jacket of gray wool knit. V-neckline with large spread collar. Set in two piece sleeves. Center front separating zipper opening supplemented by single hook&eye closure. Cinnamon suede belt attached at waist ties at center front. Fully lined in cinnamon silk. Belt backed with tan leather. Designer's label in back neck below collar: "Balenciaga / 10, Avenue George V. Paris" Haute Couture number label below designer's label, blank(?) Paper tag pinned at bottom right hem: "XM 80" (b) Skirt: Matching semi-tailored skirt falling just below the knee. 3/4" folded waistband. Left side zipper closure supplemented by two hook&eyes on waistband. Folded hem. Fully lined in gray silk. Paper tag pinned at bottom seam: "XM 80" Separate paper tag pinned at bottom seam: "W-13 / H-19 / L-26 1/2" on back of tag "XM 80"

Suit of brown and black wool tweed consisting of jacket, skirt, and vest.

Cloche style hat of black Milan straw cloth with small, slightly pointed front brim. Hat is folded across width of crown towards front. Narrow black velvet ribbon trim meeting to form a bow at front with wreath of folded ribbon at base of bow. Unlined with elastic band to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Louise Bourbon (barely legible) / 13 Rue Royale Paris" Tag attached to designer's label: "Made in France"

Ensemble consisting of three pieces. Full-length bodystocking is of heavy ivory wool knit, in a ribbed pattern running vertically throughout body and legs, and horizontally around arms. The garment has a turtle-neck and wide flaring cuffs at legs. Center back zipper opening from top of turtle-neck to mid-back. The black double knit wool micro-mini-skirt has four over-sized belt loops with pointed ends, and center back zipper closure. The ensemble includes a wide black patent-leather belt which secures with concealed snaps. Bodystocking has two labels. Designer's label inside at back near zipper: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York"; Material/size label on opposite side: "100% / Wool / L" The belt is stamped on reverse: "12 1851"

Beret of green, cerise and cream colored worsted yarn with pink pique ribbon trim and bow. Three knit loops encircle ribbon and bow on left front. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Chanel" Model number tag above designer's label: "10791(?)" Label: "Made in France"

Three-piece ensemble of navy blue wool tweed with white silk threads. A) Cape. Falls below hips. Constructed with applied bands or plackets of self giving the appearance of pleats. No collar; rounded neckline with modified suspender self bands at neck that extend down to waist and secure to the pair of buttons on the waistband of the skirt. Padded shoulders. Lined in white satin. Remains of label, mostly illegible, in pieces, covered with crepeline. "65-67 Champ ........ Paris" B) Blouse of white satin. Collarless with piped, rounded, high neckline and string tie at front (decorative). Long, set-in sleeves gathered into cuffs with single button and tailored buttonhole at each cuff. Front with wide center and two narrow vertical pin-tucks. Center back closure with 7 circular shell/mother-of-pearl buttons and tailored buttonholes. No labels in shirt. C) Skirt. Street-length, A-line with 1-1/2 inch waistband. Two pairs of circular dark blue buttons on waistband for securing "suspenders". Left side zipper with four sets of hook-and-eyes (one missing). Simulated pleats, sewn down, with vertical strips of same fabric sewn to skirt giving illusion of further pleating. Unlined. Label on waistband to left of zipper: "Made In France"

Blouse of navy blue wool. Wide, boat neckline with inner wide white pique lining which folds over dark plum(?) facing of wool collar, to become shawl collar. Double breasted, with three pair of circular black buttons and single hook-and-eye at waist. Sleeveless, with slight "cap" effect caused by wide shoulders darting, and deep diagonal line of sides. Raised waist and flaring peplum. Unlined. Inner structure augmented with satin ribbons sewn to help hold structure of bodice. Designer's label at inside lower left seam: "Renée Collard / Paris" Retailer's label overlapping lower edge of designer's label: "Janga / 98 Faubg St Honoré Paris"

White leather mini-skirt with 4 applied black leather bands running horizontally around skirt. White leather suspenders attached at back, cross at back, and run over shoulders to fasten at circular white leather-covered buttons on waistband in front. Fully lined in white nylon. Shirt does not fit tight at waist. Pictured with black knit turtle-neck top, long-sleeves. Designer's label: "Courreges / Exclusively Designed in / Leather and Fabric for / Samuel Robert"

Hat of gray fur felt. The derby style hat is made of a single piece of stiffened gray fur felt. The low, domed crown is encircled near the base by a band of black grosgrain ribbon, with a bow at back. The 2" wide brim curves upwards at edges. Hat is unlined, and has a band of black grosgrain ribbon inside at base of crown. Attached to the inner ribbon is a small plastic comb to secure the hat to wearer's head. Designer's label sewn to inner ribbon: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York / 78 East 56th Street, N.Y."

Calotte style hat of deep emerald green velvet with stitched, raised front. Rim of twisted velvet. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Danielle / ses chapeaux / Paris" Tag attached to designer's label: "Made in France"

Cloche hat of tan linen. The off-the-face cloche has a high, domed crown embellished with white saddle stitching along seams. The brim is of the same material, folded up at front and descending down at sides and is turned down at back. At center back is a separation in the brim, with a small tan linen bow between the sections. The hat is unlined, with a brown grosgrain ribbon inner hatband inside the base of the crown. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Reproduction / Rose Descat / 22 Rue Royale / Paris"; Second label sewn to inner hatband: "Made in France"

Alpine style hat in wine felt with green stitching and crease across center of crown. Wide grosgrain ribbon trim around base of crown of same color as top-stitching. Red feather on one side. Designer's label: "Rose Descat / 22.Rue Royale" Tag in hat: "Made in France"

Hat of black wool felt in fedora style. Wide brimmed; sunken crown. Red leather trim at crown cut down center with pinking cut and supplemented with wound strands of green leather and braided with wound strands of green leather on opposite side. Ends of hatband are connected with large wooden toggle. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Rose Descat / 22.Rue Royale"

Hat of royal blue velour. The crown is somewhat domed, of pieced velour, with a band of rolled dark blue satin around the base. The wide brim of matching velour is shaped to dip down and turn up slightly around the crown. The hat is unlined, with a band of dark blue grosgrain ribbon sewn in between the inner edge of the crown and the brim. Designer's label sewn inside: "Rose Descat / Paris", with a second label sewn to lower edge of designer's: "Made In France".

Calotte style hat made of brown net covered with green silk leaves and violet rose buds. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Made in France / Christian Dior / Paris"

Cloche-style hat of blue/gray feathers. The crown of the hat is made of dark blue mesh overlaid with a mosaic of blue/gray feathers. Brimless, the lower edge of the crown arcs upwards at front and slightly in back. The hat is lined in the mesh, and has an inner hatband at the lower inside edge of the crown. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Made In / France", "Christian Dior / Paris"

Coat dress of brown silk faille in "Ottoman" style. Knee or street length, with turndown collar and slight V neckline. Darts at bust for fit. Four button closures at center front with bound buttonholes, two above and two below waist/belt. Hook and eyes at waistline. Long sleeves with rolled cuffs and underarm gussets. In-seam pockets at sides. Flared skirt, pleated in back. Simulated "shirtwaist" decoration at front of skirt. Unlined. Designer's label at inside back collar: "Made in / France"; "Autumne-Hiver 1952 / Christian Dior / Paris"; stamped: "2????" [mostly illegible], on label With matching belt of brown suede. Self-covered buckle of narrow, vertical rectangles secures with hook and bar closure; 1-1/4" wide.

Cocktail dress of yellow lace and organza. The strapless, knee-length dress is of yellow inlay Spanish lace, with a slim line skirt that gathers at empire waist. It has a center back zipper with hook & eye closure at top. The bodice has a built-in corset-like support of boning and white net with white grosgrain ribbon waist band, the whole securing at back with 8 hook & eye closures. Lined in yellow silk. A removable, wide band of pleated yellow organza with tapered ends embellished with matching lace appliqués attaches with hooks and eyes at the waist of the dress, giving the effect of a narrow stole. The dress also has an accompanying very large matching yellow organza stole/wrap with matching lace appliqués at each end.

Day dress of red ribbed wool. Squared neckline; 3/4 length sleeves. Set-in waistline with attached 1-1/2" wraparound belt that closes in back with 2 hook & eyes and a snap. Below knee length. Center front opening with 7 hook & eyes on waistband and 7 red, circular, plastic buttons and bound buttonholes below waistband. Lined in red silk; bodice lining is sleeveless with center front zipper closure. Designer's label at right seam of bodice lining: "Automne-Hiver 1953 / Christian Dior / Paris / Made in France" and stamped on designer's label: "36416" Style number label under designer's label, illegible: "--6--4"

Cocktail or dinner dress ensemble of pale blue/green satin brocade with design of acanthus and thistle/leaf in dark green and golden yellow, consisting of: A) Blouse. Short sleeves with 2" rolled cuffs and shawl collar. Center front opening has 4 self-covered buttons above waist, and 6 hook-and-loops below waist on peplum for securing into skirt. Fitted seaming and pleats centered on waist. Unlined. Label inside top at left side seam: "Made in France / Christian Dior / Paris" and stamped on label: "05456" B) Skirt of matching brocade. The mid-length skirt is double box pleated from narrow waistband. Center back zipper with hook-and-eyes at waistband. Unlined. C) Petticoat of ivory moiré satin. Mid-length, with narrow waistband. Center back zipper with hook-and-eye at waistband. E) Belt of green silk-covered ivory leather with rectangular silk-covered buckle. (not in photographs) D) Purse of green silk.

Ensemble of navy-blue and slightly lighter silk organza composed of vertical hand-faggoted bands of alternating shades of blue giving light and dark effect. A) Blouse. Waist length with extending peplum to tuck under skirt. V-neckline, with collar of flat reveres with faggoted border. Short sleeves with turned-back cuffs. Center front opening with 4 self-covered buttons, a snap at the natural waistline, and 1 hook and loop and 5 hooks and eyes on peplum. The stripes and peplum are lined in pale gray organza, leaving the faggotted seams unlined. Underarm gussetts, with built-in pads. No labels. B) Skirt. Street length, full skirt matching bodice, with alternating vertical stripes, narrow navy blue waistband with center front opening with 5 self-covered buttons, and one hook and eye and two hook and loops on waistband, and a large snap which matches to bodice. Lined as blouse, with cream organza lining the stripes, but the faggotted bands left open, and with an inner skirt attached at waist of same cream silk organza, and with inner petticoat with flounce of cream tulle which has separate closure with 9 hook-and-eyes. No labels. Handwritten note on waistband "RH650 2P(?)" C) Inner shell camisole/lining for blouse of cream silk. Sleeveless, waist length, with V-neckline and center front opening with 7 hook-and-eye closures. Fitted slightly raised waistline. Designer's label at left side seam near hem: "Christian Dior / Paris" "Printemps-Ete 1953"; "Made in France"; 34419(?) Handwritten label underneath designer's label: "58.889"

(At Left) Evening ensemble of brown silk shantung. The camisole is sleeveless, with a boat neckline. Center back closure with 10 small circular buttons covered with matching fabric. The blouse is lined in dark brown silk, and has an inner structure of net and metal boning. The understructure extends below the top to give structure to the skirt. The inner net and boning layer has a center back closure of 14 hook-and-eyes, matching along same line as outer closure. The skirt is of matching materials, A-line, below-the-knee length. It has a 2" waistband decorated with horizontal ruching. Center-back zipper closure with two hook-and-eyes in waistband. The skirt has an attached black rayon gorgette underslip, and an attached black nylon petticoat. The petticoat has a horsehair braid incorporated in the hem for stiffening. The matching swing coat is calf length, with a rolled collar and short sleeves. It is constructed with several layers of organza for structure and a tuck panel around the coat for decoration and flounce. Lined in brown silk. There are no labels in the garment. Photograph is from the exhibition "Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers", held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows suit as displayed.

Ensemble of printed silk. This cocktail or dinner ensemble in the "New Look" consists of a dress and bolero-style jacket of printed floral ikat silk with a black ground and floral design in gray, browns and dark brown/mauve shades. A) The dress is mid-calf-length, sleeveless, and with a boat neckline. Tailored to fit, with side bust and waist darts. Self fabric bow at top of waist gore which releases into a box pleat at the skirt. Slightly dropped waist. Under the sides of front box pleat edges are two knife pleats to create fullness, with darts for slimmer waist. On either side of front bock pleat is a small 1"intake pleat to balance fullness of skirt. Side seams have a lapping box pleat and an small triangular insert from front side seams. Back waist has 4 sets of box pleats, two on either side of center back zipper closure. The dress has built-in under-structure consisting of inner half-slip of off-white satin, and three layers of stiffened netting petticoats, all with horsehair braid at hem. B) The matching jacket is of the same cloth, cropped short in the bolero style. The center-front opening has no closures and is collarless. Raglan style sleeves are tea elbow length. Under sleeve and sleeve cuff is slightly ruched creating a faux cuff look. It is fully lined in a brown silk organza. 4-way underarm gusset. Sewn into the hem are French weights. There is no label in the dress. The jacket has a single designer's label: "Printemps-Ete 1956 / Christian Dior / Paris" which has stamped on it "80615". The "1956" appears embossed, not printed, and the black backing of the label is cut away behind the "1956".

Hat of silk faille. The body of the hat is made of woven straw, covered with beige/off-white silk faille. The shallow, domed crown is made in two parts - the upper shallow dome, and a collar into which the upper crown is inset. The upper edge of the collar is pipped in black. The shallow sloping brim is similarly constructed, with an inner band and then outer section with a black pipped edge between the sections. The crown is unlined, revealing the woven straw. The brim segments are lined in the same faille of the outside of the hat. Around the inside of the crown is an inner hatband of cream grosgrain ribbon, two which is attached a black elasticized cord to secure the hat to wearer's head. A small red/brown stitch on the inner hatband indicates the front of the hat. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Christian Dior / Paris / Made in / France"

Cloche hat of tan milan straw. The high crown is slightly dished, and narrows to brim, with wide band of tan/very pale green grosgrain ribbon at base with large "bow" at side. The straw brim is down-turned. The crown has an inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Roger Heim / Made in France Paris", and retailer's ribbon sewn just above designer's label: "Made in France for / Neiman-Marcus".

(At left) Raincoat of black vinyl. The modified A-line coat is of short length, extending to just at or below the knee, and has long sleeves. Center-front opening is secured with 3 silver/chrome clip closures, one at the rounded neckline and two at waist. There is one patch pocket at the right hip. The coat is fully lined in synthetic with vertical stripes of pink, green, blue, violet, and red on a black ground. Size 10. Manufacturer's label inside at center back just below neckline: "La Flaque / de Paris". At right inside side-seam is a Union Label.

Black felt wide flat brimmed hat with shallow crown trimmed with black grosgrain ribbon tied in a double bow at one side. Brim edged with black silk. Label on inside hatband: "Paris / Le Chapeau Chic / New York"

Hat of gray fur felt. The low, rounded crown is made of gray beaver(?) fur felt over a structure of woven straw. Brim is of same felt, and appears narrow in front, but rolls under and extends back under crown. At sides and back, brim curves upwards, and then back downwards to extend under crown. Along sides and back of crown is section of gray grosgrain ribbon which projects through the upturned brim at back and becomes a large bow with trailing ends. There is an inner hatband of gray grosgrain ribbon around the edges of the brim where they meet the inside base of the crown. Attached to the inner hatband is an elasticized cord to secure hat to wearer's head, and attached to the front brim underside is a plastic comb to secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Legroux Soeurs / 4 Rue Cambon Paris / Made in France".

Eugenie style hat of wine colored felt and velour with shallow crown. Ostrich plumes at crown. Label inside hat: "Lorie" Label inside hat: "Reproduction 'illegible' / Madame Lucy / 5, Rue de la Paix / Paris" Size label: "registered model / 22 1/2" Label inside hat: "Millinery Creators Guild"

Hat with sloping black brim of Milan straw and royal blue knit bands forming open crown. Designer's label: "Agnes / 6 Rue St Florentine / Paris" Label attached above designer's label: "Made in France" Stamped model label under designer's label: "75,174"

Beret of navy felt with 2 burnt orange grosgrain ribbon trims on back and one in front attached to brim. Elastic band for securing hat to wearers head. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Agnes / 83 Faubourg St Honore 83 / Angle Avenue Matignon" Label attached to designer's label: "Made in France" Model number tag attached to back of designer's label: "24806"

Turban style hat of close fitting draped gray/cream/black panne velvet gathered onto ring covered with self fabric on front. Designer's label: "Agnes / 6 Rue St Florentin" Label at bottom of designer's label: "Made in France" Stamped model label above designer's label: "89,113"

High standing beret of navy felt fabric. Asymmetric shape. Hatband of purple stain ties at knot in back with frayed ends. Designer's label: "Madame Luzy / 5, Rue de la Paix / Paris" Label attached to top of designer's label: "Made in France"

Toque hat of black velvet. Four bands of tricolor red-orange silk velvet at base of hat in back circle to left side and end at a point on the crown. Small elastic chin strap. Designer's label: "Madame Marie-Alphonsine Modes / 73. Champs Elysees / Paris" Label attached to top of designer's label: "Made in France" Size label to left of designer's label: "22"

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