Texas Fashion Collection - Browse

ABOUT BROWSE FEED

Ensemble - Dress and Coat

Description: (At Left) Evening ensemble of brown silk shantung. The camisole is sleeveless, with a boat neckline. Center back closure with 10 small circular buttons covered with matching fabric. The blouse is lined in dark brown silk, and has an inner structure of net and metal boning. The understructure extends below the top to give structure to the skirt. The inner net and boning layer has a center back closure of 14 hook-and-eyes, matching along same line as outer closure. The skirt is of matching materials, A-line, below-the-knee length. It has a 2" waistband decorated with horizontal ruching. Center-back zipper closure with two hook-and-eyes in waistband. The skirt has an attached black rayon gorgette underslip, and an attached black nylon petticoat. The petticoat has a horsehair braid incorporated in the hem for stiffening. The matching swing coat is calf length, with a rolled collar and short sleeves. It is constructed with several layers of organza for structure and a tuck panel around the coat for decoration and flounce. Lined in brown silk. There are no labels in the garment. Photograph is from the exhibition "Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers", held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows suit as displayed. From the original collection of the Dallas Museum of Fashion, which later became the Texas Fashion Collection.
Date: 1955
Creator: Dior, Christian
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Ensemble - Bodystocking, Mini-Skirt and Belt

Description: Ensemble consisting of three pieces. Full-length bodystocking is of heavy ivory wool knit, in a ribbed pattern running vertically throughout body and legs, and horizontally around arms. The garment has a turtle-neck and wide flaring cuffs at legs. Center back zipper opening from top of turtle-neck to mid-back. The black double knit wool micro-mini-skirt has four over-sized belt loops with pointed ends, and center back zipper closure. The ensemble includes a wide black patent-leather belt which secures with concealed snaps. Bodystocking has two labels. Designer's label inside at back near zipper: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York"; Material/size label on opposite side: "100% / Wool / L" The skirt has no labels. The belt is stamped on reverse: "12 1851" From the Fall 1969/1970 season. Records indicate that the ensemble was originally offered in the Maisonette Room of Neiman-Marcus.
Date: 1969/1970
Creator: Cardin, Pierre
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Dress

Description: Evening dress of orange/tangerine silk chiffon with cut velvet fish scale design in silvery white partly outlined with silver bugle beads. Sleeveless, with round scoop neck, and armholes cut to waist. Straight tubular shape with drop waist, with a swag of pleated self-fabric at left hip, trimmed with five rhinestone medallions. 1" fur trim at hem. Dress has been shortened and fur may have been added at that time. Probably originally 1918-20's style.
Date: 1928
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Evening Dress

Description: Evening dress of embroidered silk organza with pink silk acetate lining and belt; square neckline; sleeveless with rhinestone embellished velvet straps attached by rhinestone snaps in front and back; velvet trim; three tiers with pink floral embroidery; pink velvet belt embellished with rhinestones and a velvet flower
Date: 1922
Creator: La Rege
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Skirt Suit

Description: Two-piece gray faille moire wool and nylon suit. Jacket is long, with wide notched collar, is double breasted, has bound button holes, and buttons below waist. It has a sculptural double-breasted front panel, that maintains a vertical linear center front, rounded shape visually flanks stomach area. The skirt is straight; slightly below knee length.
Date: 1950
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Ensemble - Blouse and Pants

Description: Lounge ensemble in pink silks. The pantsuit consists of a blouse and pants. The blouse is of pink silk, constructed as two layers. The inner lining layer is of plain pink gauze. The outer layer is of pink silk heavily decorated with patterns created by shibori technique dying. The blouse has long sleeves and a center-front zipper closure that runs almost the entire length of the garment and has a single hook-and-eye at throat. The collar, cuffs, hem, and flap over the zipper are a small ruffle of the same materials. The shibori patterns use green, yellow, blue, and the original white of the fabric to create bands of tiny "puckers", large circular forms, and abstract shapes. The pants are of pink silk taffeta, about ankle length, with elastic cuffs. Plain waistband, with zipper closure at center front and single hook-and-eye at waistband. Described in early records as harem pants, but lacking the fullness associated with that style. Both garments have the same series of labels. Designer's label: "Martine Grandval / Made in France Paris"; material label "100% Silk"; and retailer's label: "ViV / Neiman-Marcus / Made in France". The shibori fabric may be of Indian, Pakistani, or Asian origin, based on the particular way that the shibori tye-dying technique has been used on the garment.
Date: 1960/1969
Creator: Grandval, Martine
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Dress

Description: Dinner dress of printed silk organza. The dress is composed of two parts. The caftan-like outer layer of the dress consists of a square silk organza cocoon printed in psychedelic motifs in purples, blues, pinks and chartreuse. It has a high rounded neckline with center back opening secured with six loops and covered buttons. There are applied flat cuffs at the wrist openings and waist-level slits at center front to accommodate the sash. There is a center front slit from hem to knee-level. The inner dress is a matching, full-length, sleeveless sheath in printed silk of the same design. It has a high rounded neckline with center back zipper closure from neck to hip with a single hook-and-eye closure at the neckline. The outer caftan and inner sheath are joined at the neckline. There is a printed silk organza sash of the same fabric that meets at center front and secures with two hook-and-eye closures and has self ties to disguise closure. The sash is swing tacked at the back. There is a center front slit from the hem to knee-level. Lime green silk panels are inset at sideseams, running from the underarm to the hem, and may be later additions to the garment. The dress is fully lined in green silk crepe. Designer's label located inside left center back, beside the zipper: Pierre Cardin / Paris New York". Retailer's label located inside right center back, beside the zipper: "Maisonette / Neiman-Marcus"
Date: 1970
Creator: Cardin, Pierre, 1922-
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Jacket

Description: Waist-length black simulated alligator jacket. The cropped shell is constructed of panels of leather blind-stamped to simulate alligator. Panels are edged with silver-colored circular metal grommeted eyelets, and are joined with knitted black cording. The high, rounded spread collar is of ribbed black knit. Zipper closure from throat to hem at center front. The jacket is unlined, and has two interior, black canvas, envelope pockets with snap closures. Label is located inside at center back, below the collar. "Paco Rabanne / Paris Made in France". Jacket was donated as part of an ensemble which also included black wool and cashmere knit sweater by Dior, and black hip-hugger trousers by Remy.
Date: 1965/1970
Creator: Rabanne, Paco
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Ensemble

Description: Ensemble in black and oatmeal colored wool, consisting of: A) Jacket: Semi-fitted wool in abstracted herringbone weave with black and oatmeal yarns running double throughout; moderately rounded neckline with asymmetrical mandarin collar; full-length raglan sleeves with overarm seam and undersleeve; double breasted front opening with eight round, plastic, oatmeal colored buttons and four bound buttonholes supplemented by single hook & eye inside lap at waist; vertical welt pockets on front lined in black silk; fully lined in black silk. Designer's label at inside collar: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris" and "Made in France". Retailer's label at inside side seam: "Neiman-Marcus" B) Dress: Knee length dress; bodice of black wool gauze with jewel neckline; sleeveless; lapped centerfront opening with four round self-covered buttons and bound buttonholes supplemented by single snap and hook & eye; bodice gathers into seam at natural waistline; gathered hip yoke of same gauze; straight skirt of matching herringbone has three snaps at centerfront opening; folded hem; gauze is lined in black silk organdy; skirt is unlined.
Date: 1950
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Dinner Dress

Description: Dinner dress and jacket ensemble of black wool; (a) Jacket: Short princess line black wool jacket; V-neckline with wide notched collar and wide lapels; full-length, set in, two piece sleeves; asymmetrical lapped front opening with one large, round, filligreed button with rhinestones and bound buttonhole; fully lined in black silk. Label stitched inside back neck below collar. (b) Dress: Matching sleeveless knee length dress with V-neckline in front due to surplice styled opening; fronts secure with four snaps and four hook&eyes; seam detail around bust; back neckline is square between straps; waistline seam with skirt gathering all around; lapped center-front opening in skirt with single hook&eye and two snaps; folded hem; fully lined in black silk. Label stitched inside on lining at right side seam. Size 12 BALENCIAGA, Paris
Date: 1960/1969
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristobal
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Ball Gown

Description: Ball gown of pink silk taffeta. The off-the-shoulder design has several layers of cream colored Chantilly lace around the neckline/shoulder edge. The dress itself is of bright fuchsia pink silk taffeta with ties over each arm. The bodice is seamed and fitted, with a left side seam zipper. The attached matching taffeta skirt is gathered and draped horizontally, and has several layers of Chantilly lace at hem. The skirt has three hoops under the lining.
Date: 1960
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristobal, 1895-1972
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Hat

Description: Hat of gray felt. The domed crown is constructed with the the outline of a rounded square, with attached stiffened double-brim, which turns up on all sides, forming a point at front and at sides, but rounded in back. At the back of the hat the brim extends downwards, forming a point. The hat is unlined, and edged with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. A small stitched star on the hatband indicates the front of the hat. Visible behind the ribbon in one section is the woven straw backing used to stiffen the brim. Designer's label inside crown, sewn to ribbon band: "Hattie Carnegie / Custom Made" Stamped inside crown on felt: Circular mark containing a logo of three rabbits and partly missing word "... URLAP", and below logo ".... en France".
Date: 1955
Creator: Carnegie, Hattie
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Fan

Description: Folding fan with intricately carved and decorated tortoiseshell guards and sticks. Leaf of stiffened off-white organdy, heavily embroidered with steel paillettes and gold sequins. Embroidered and sequined peacock feathers applied to ends of alternating sticks. Pivot-point at end set on each side with blue stone. Measurements: 45 cm width (open) Guard: 22 cm length, 2 cm width
Date: 187u
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Cloche

Description: Cloche hat of tan milan straw. The high crown is slightly dished, and narrows to brim, with wide band of tan/very pale green grosgrain ribbon at base with large "bow" at side. The straw brim is down-turned. The crown has an inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Roger Heim / Made in France Paris", and retailer's ribbon sewn just above designer's label: "Made in France for / Neiman-Marcus".
Date: 1959
Creator: Heim, Roger
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Fan

Description: Folding fan of bone and satin. Guards and sticks of bone, intricately carved with pierced latticework. Plain off-white silk satin leaf. Chased metal bail ring at pivot with mother-of-pearl beads. Off-white silk tassel tied to bail. Inscribed on silk leaf along one guard: "Hood W. [illeg.] / June 5th /73"; other inscriptions on other guard, too fragile to examine.
Date: 1870/1879
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Fan

Description: Folding fan with tortoise-shell frame. Sticks and loop of tortoise shell; possibly for brise style fan; missing leaf or ribbon. Measurements: 39 cm extended; guard 21 cm long x 3 cm wide
Date: 1890/1920
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Fan

Description: Folding fan. Guards and sticks of carved and pierced ivory (bone?)with a foliage designs. The white sheer organdy leaf is hand-painted with central vignette of a garden scene of a couple greeting a woman seated on a bench. The leaf with added hand-panted border of a garland of flowers. Reverse is unadorned. No visible labels, marks or signatures. Fan has been in-expertly mended at some point previous to entering collection.
Date: 1880/1889
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Fan

Description: Folding fan. Guards and sticks of lightly carved ivory (bone?) with scrolling foliate designs. The leaf is of white lace. Sticks are unadorned on the reverse. No visible labels, marks or signatures. Fan has alternately been identified as Irish lace or machine-made lace, and dated 1830's or 1880-1899.
Date: 1880/1899
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Fan

Description: Folding-style fan of wood and paper. The plain wooden sticks are stained dark brown, with the outermost stick acting as partial guard. The paper leaf is printed on both sides, the front advertising Galleries Lafayette, with text " 'Ne Vendre Que Du Bon Le Meilleur March Possible.' / voila le principe fondamental sinclerent applique, qu a provoque le prodigieux essor / des Galeries Lafayette / seale Maisor au Monde dont le chiffre d'affaires annuel depasse le milliard de francs"; with view of seated lady with full skirt. Reverse with view of Art Deco-style lady looking in a hand mirror. Front of leaf signed "Jean / Gabriel / Domergue" Reverse of leaf signed: "Gabriel / Ferro"
Date: 1926
Creator: Domergue, Jean-Gabriel & Ferro, Gabriel
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Fedora

Description: Hat of gray felt. The hat is styled as a man's fedora. The crown is of gray felt, canted backwards, with flattened top which is sunken-in. Brim slants down in front and turns up in back, and is quilted with concentric stitching. Remains of threads and holes indicate hat originally had some form of band around the base of the crown. Hat is unlined, with inner hatband of steel blue gray grosgrain ribbon inside base of crown. Affixed to inner hatband is black elasticized cord to secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Valerie / Hat / Paris - New York", with size label sewn to edge of maker's label: "22 1/2"
Date: 1948
Creator: Valerie Hat
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Pumps

Description: Pair of speckled taupe leather pumps. Uppers of light taupe leather embellished with tiny grayish flat pebbled textural design. Toe cap of black patent leather. 3 3/4" spike heel covered in black patent leather. Lined in olive leather except inner heel, which is lined in natural light brown leather. Soles of black leather. Stamped in each shoe: "Charles Jourdan / Paris / Made in France". Stamped inside each heel: "37 X 7 2A 586855 NF". Stamped on sole: "Leather / Leder / Cuir / Made in / France"
Date: 1980/1989
Creator: Charles Jourdan (House of)
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Boater

Description: Boater-style hat of off-white straw. The whole hat is of straw woven into shell-shaped segments, connected to form the body of the hat. The cylindrical crown has a flat top, and is encircled at the base by a black velvet ribbon. At either side of the crown are large black velvet bows. The flat, oval brim follows the outline of the crown, and is partly overlaid by a fine black mesh veil with long, trailing ends that are long enough to tie under the wearer's chin. The underside of the brim is edged in black velvet, and there is a black velvet strap which extends down from either side to help secure hat to wearer's head. The hat is lined with a fine white mesh, and has an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon at inside base of crown. Labels sewn into inner hatband: "Marché Hats / Paris New York"; Also sewn into inner hatband is second label, "Consumers' Protection Label / 784619". Hand-written on velvet chinstrap: "59389"
Date: 1940/1945
Creator: Marché Hats
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Hat

Description: Hat of olive green/gray felt. The low, domed crown is of a drab olive green/gray felt, divided into four quadrants. Around the base of the crown is a band of similarly colored grosgrain ribbon, with bow at right side. The brim is of the same felt, and slopes downwards at front, and turns upwards at back. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon at inside base of crown. Attached to the inner band is an elasticized cord to help secure hat to wearer's head. Stamped in gold on inner hatband: "Made in France especially for / Best & Co"
Date: 1940/1945
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Hat

Description: Hat of dark green felt and multicolored yarns. Formed in the style of a small bonnet, the cylindrical crown is pointed back, and cut flat across top. The front of the crown is overlaid by a band of heavily embroidered/crocheted flowers and ground of various colors of yarn, and scattered shaped beads. This band is bordered by a thick purple yarn. At the front of the hat and extending along the sides are the brim, folded back to form a second wide band of heavily embroidered/crocheted flowers and ground. The hat is unlined, and from the inside can be seen the inner part of the embroidery/crochet. Maker's label sewn inside hat, at back of crown: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York / 78 East 56th Street, N.Y."
Date: 1955
Creator: Daché, Lilly
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design