Dinner dress and jacket ensemble of black wool; (a) Jacket: Short princess line black wool jacket; V-neckline with wide notched collar and wide lapels; full-length, set in, two piece sleeves; asymmetrical lapped front opening with one large, round, filligreed button with rhinestones and bound buttonhole; fully lined in black silk. Label stitched inside back neck below collar. (b) Dress: Matching sleeveless knee length dress with V-neckline in front due to surplice styled opening; fronts secure with four snaps and four hook&eyes; seam detail around bust; back neckline is square between straps; waistline seam with skirt gathering all around; lapped center-front opening in skirt with single hook&eye and two snaps; folded hem; fully lined in black silk. Label stitched inside on lining at right side seam. Size 12 BALENCIAGA, Paris
Ensemble consisting of three pieces. Full-length bodystocking is of heavy ivory wool knit, in a ribbed pattern running vertically throughout body and legs, and horizontally around arms. The garment has a turtle-neck and wide flaring cuffs at legs. Center back zipper opening from top of turtle-neck to mid-back. The black double knit wool micro-mini-skirt has four over-sized belt loops with pointed ends, and center back zipper closure. The ensemble includes a wide black patent-leather belt which secures with concealed snaps. Bodystocking has two labels. Designer's label inside at back near zipper: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York"; Material/size label on opposite side: "100% / Wool / L" The skirt has no labels. The belt is stamped on reverse: "12 1851" From the Fall 1969/1970 season. Records indicate that the ensemble was originally offered in the Maisonette Room of Neiman-Marcus.
Ensemble of oatmeal colored wool tweed: a) Jacket of beige and black wool tweed with V-neckline with standard notched collar and wide lapels; short, princess seams; 3/4 length, set in, two piece sleeves; double breasted opening with four round, plastic, beige buttons and two bound buttonholes supplemented by single large covered snap inside lap at waist; fully lined in beige silk. Label stitched inside back neck below collar. b) Dress of same; sleeveless; falling just below the knee; deep rounded neckline; empire waist seam; straight skirt has slight gathers in front; left side underarm zipper closure supplemented by single hook&eye closure; folded hem; armhole and neck facings; brassiere strap keepers snap inside shoulders; unlined.
Lounge ensemble in pink silks. The pantsuit consists of a blouse and pants. The blouse is of pink silk, constructed as two layers. The inner lining layer is of plain pink gauze. The outer layer is of pink silk heavily decorated with patterns created by shibori technique dying. The blouse has long sleeves and a center-front zipper closure that runs almost the entire length of the garment and has a single hook-and-eye at throat. The collar, cuffs, hem, and flap over the zipper are a small ruffle of the same materials. The shibori patterns use green, yellow, blue, and the original white of the fabric to create bands of tiny "puckers", large circular forms, and abstract shapes. The pants are of pink silk taffeta, about ankle length, with elastic cuffs. Plain waistband, with zipper closure at center front and single hook-and-eye at waistband. Described in early records as harem pants, but lacking the fullness associated with that style. Both garments have the same series of labels. Designer's label: "Martine Grandval / Made in France Paris"; material label "100% Silk"; and retailer's label: "ViV / Neiman-Marcus / Made in France". The shibori fabric may be of Indian, Pakistani, or Asian origin, based on the particular way that the shibori tye-dying technique has been used on the garment.
a) Cocktail dress of dark green jacquard silk with black field in a pebble motif. Fitted bodice is sleeveless with slight scoop neckline. Gathered, A-line skirt with inseam pockets. Knee-length. Skirt lined in black silk and bodice partially lined at neck with black organza. Left shoulder separates with 5 snaps. Centered, left side zipper with strapped hook & eye. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "EISA" b) Coat of self fabric has sewn down, drawstring neckline. Three-quarter length raglan sleeves. Open front; knee-length. Fully lined in black taffeta with interlining of stiff netting for fullness. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "EISA"
Two-piece suit of black and ivory plaid wool with black silk blouse. (a) Jacket: Short unfitted jacket of black and ivory windowpane plaid wool; V-neckline with standard notched collar and short lapels.;3/4 length sleeves cut in one with jacket body supplemented by single triangular gusset under arm; lapped centerfront opening with three round, plastic, ivory buttons and bound buttonholes; front has a large pair of faux pocket flaps at lower chest level; fully lined in white silk. (b) Blouse: Semi-fitted short black silk faille blouse with jewel neckline; 3/4 length sleeves are cut in one with blouse body and supplemented by single triangular shaped gusset under arm; centerfront opening laps left over right with four round, black, plastic buttons and bound buttonholes with one snap at neck; folded hem; facings and hem interfaced with black silk organza. Label stitched at bottom of back neck facing. (c) Skirt: Matching plaid semi-tailored, knee length skirt with narrow rolled waistband; slight gathers at front waist; offset left side front zipper closure supplemented by single hook&eye closure on waistband; folded hem; fully lined in white silk.
Waist-length black simulated alligator jacket. The cropped shell is constructed of panels of leather blind-stamped to simulate alligator. Panels are edged with silver-colored circular metal grommeted eyelets, and are joined with knitted black cording. The high, rounded spread collar is of ribbed black knit. Zipper closure from throat to hem at center front. The jacket is unlined, and has two interior, black canvas, envelope pockets with snap closures. Label is located inside at center back, below the collar. "Paco Rabanne / Paris Made in France". Jacket was donated as part of an ensemble which also included black wool and cashmere knit sweater by Dior, and black hip-hugger trousers by Remy.
Black satin toque hat. Cylindrical in form, with sides curving down along ears/temples. Slightly domed at top, and with an ornament at front consisting of a black satin bow and a group of curled black feathers. Label inside at back: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V / Paris"
Ball gown of pink silk taffeta. The off-the-shoulder design has several layers of cream colored Chantilly lace around the neckline/shoulder edge. The dress itself is of bright fuchsia pink silk taffeta with ties over each arm. The bodice is seamed and fitted, with a left side seam zipper. The attached matching taffeta skirt is gathered and draped horizontally, and has several layers of Chantilly lace at hem. The skirt has three hoops under the lining.
Hat of moss green "plush" velvet. The derby-style hat has domed cylindrical crown with indentations at front and slight crease along crown. Narrow brim, rolled upwards at sides and back. To left of center front is small attached "fan" of various types and colors of feathers. Inside crown is attached small length of black grosgrain ribbon to maintain the front indentations, and a band of black grosgrain ribbon along inside base of crown. Stamped inside crown: Feutre Flechet.
Hat of black velvet. The hat has a circular, slightly domed, crown completely covered in black velvet. At the front is attached a rhinestone and glass(?) brooch formed as firework spray. The central iridescent faceted stone is surrounded by rays or arms of lines of rhinestones simulating diamonds. Some rays arc over the brooch, some hang down. Most are only partly rigid, so that as the wearer moves the rays shimmer and the stones catch the light. The crown is lined in black fabric, with a black grosgrain ribbon running along the inner lower edge. Attached to the inner ribbon band is a plastic comb to help secure the hat to the wearer's head. No labels. Donor attributed the brooch to Balenciaga. Alternatively attributed to Robert Goossens of Paris, who is known to have supplied Balenciaga.
Ensemble consisting of: a) Coat of silver lame with jeweled buttons lined in same black wool jersey as dress. b) Tunic top of black wool jersey. Sleeveless with two side slit pockets. Closure at back with two snaps and self-covered buttons. Lined in black silk. c) Pants of heavy black wool jersey. Double side zippers. Designer Label: "EISA"
Hat of leopard fur. Similar to a baseball cap, the hat has a pillbox style crown with a crescent-moon shaped visor / brim at front, both completely covered in leopard fur. Around the base of the crown is a black leather hatband. The interior of the crown is lined in a cream brocade cloth, while the visor is lined in leopard. Along the interior base of the crown is a dark brown grosgrain ribbon band. No labels.
Calotte of beaded black satin. Evening hat in the form of a calotte (also spelled "calot"). The low, domed crown is made of segments of black satin over a core of woven straw. The surface is embellished with black plastic sequins and beads of various sizes. At top of crown is small squashed spheroid finial covered with a pattern of cylindrical and circular faceted black plastic beads. Inside lower edge of crown is black grosgrain ribbon band. Sewn behind band are three elastic loops to help secure hat to head of wearer. No labels.
Evening gown of red velvet. Floor length with wide, rounded neckline with deep scoop in back and 3/4 raglan sleeves. 1/2" and 1/4" round pearl beads sewn 2" apart over entire dress. Full-length, natural waist A-line skirt with slight train. Zipper closure at center back. Unlined with bodice and sleeved interfaced in maroon silk chiffon. Designer's label at inside right side seam under arm: "EISA"
Pair of black suede boots. Over-calf-height square-toed boots lace up front, with 3 rows of eyelets at bottom and 15 hooks above. Block heel is covered in black suede. Lined in off-white kid leather and with a rubber and leather sole. Impressed in rubber sole: "Made in France". Stamped on lining inside: "Charles Jourdan / Paris" and "8 1/2 2A 468069 LE"
Brown velvet pillbox cocktail hat. The low, circular crown of the hat is slightly domed. At front of hat is pinned a large 3-dimensional pear-shaped openwork jeweled ornament of gold wire set with various colors and shapes of stones. Inside of hat lined in black cloth. Around inside lower edge of crown is brown grosgrain ribbon band. Sewn to inner band is a plastic comb to help secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner ribbon band: "Eisa". The jeweled ornament is attributed to Robert Goossens of Paris, who is known to have supplied Balenciaga. Donor notes of this hat: "...to wear with short black cocktail dresses."
a) Dinner gown with black crepe skier and white faille bodice; bodice is hand embroidered in irridescent rhinestones, sequins, silver thread, and crystal drops. b) 2" sash of bright pink satin at natural waist.
Hat of black silk tulle and satin in the form of a low pillbox of black silk tulle, tapering slightly to the shallow-domed crown. On the right side is a cascade of dyed green ostrich feathers. No designer's label.
"Lampshade" style hat of black straw or raffia. The basically conical hat is woven of a black straw material, with flattened top. On the front of the hat, off-set to the left, is affixed a wide black velvet ribbon from the top edge of the crown down to almost the brim. Sewn to the ribbon at top is a circular stamped metal brooch set with 17 large circular rhinestones in three concentric circles. The hat is lined in black net, with inner black grosgrain hatband. Sewn to the inner ribbon band is manufacturer's label: "Edette / Exclusive / New York - Paris"
Evening gown of black rayon velvet; bustle trimmed with ermine tails; column shaped; built-in undergarment with boning; bustle lined in buckram. In box with dress: box with spare tails from Balenciaga.
Toque of black satin. Pillbox-like hat has cylindrical crown, slightly domed, and is completely covered in black satin. At front, near base of crown, is a black satin bow from which rises a spray of black feathers. Interior of crown fully lined in black satin, with a black grosgrain ribbon band at base of crown. Sewn to the inner ribbon band is a plastic comb to secure the hat to the head of the wearer. No labels.
Hat of black silk chiffon. The hat is formed from a cylindrical pillbox style hat surmounted by a conical section that is folded back and flares out to form an extension behind the hat. Where the surmounting piece meets the pillbox is a black bow formed from the same cloth. Inside of crown is lined in stiff black netting, and has a black grosgrain ribbon running along the base of the crown. A small plastic comb is sewn in front of hat to inner ribbon to secure it to wearer's head. No labels. The donor records that "... Balenciaga showed it with dress and sleeveless coat..."
Cloche hat of medium brown coiled and plaited fibers. The high crown is crafted of spiraling band of plaited and coiled brown yarn(?)and incorporates looped sections, with iridescent flat ribbon wrapped around elements of the band. There is a horizontal "tuck" at back of hat, and a slight "visor" effect at front. The hat is unlined. Retailer's label sewn inside crown: "Made in France for / Neiman-Marcus". While in the style of a 1920's/1930's cloche, the materials, label, and construction date this piece to the 1960's.
Mini dress of bright red wool jersey knit. The tubular mini dress has a rounded neckline and short sleeves. Black, shiny vinyl trim at neckline, sleeve hem, lower hem, and in the form of six Pierre Cardin bullseye trademarks arranged in a triangle from natural waist to lower hem. At center back are hook and eye and zipper closure. Dress is unlined. Designer's label: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York" Care label: "The vinyl trim / on this garment / has been specially treated / to make dry cleaning possible".
Cream silk jersey evening dress / ballgown with beaded decoration and matching belt. A) Full-length gown, bodice embellished with hand-embroidered stylized leaves/buds in cream on a ground of silver, green, and mauve beads. Shoulders and thin collar with solid fields of beading. Short, wide sleeves edged with silver and clear beads. Center back opening with hook-and-eyes at top and bottom, no closure along mid-back. Plain cream silk jersey skirt, gathered into waist. Closure at right hip, with band of hook-and-eyes along back waistline, and series of hidden snaps down from waistline. Bodice lined in silk gauze, skirt lined in heavier cream silk. Inner grosgrain ribbon waistband with hook-and-eye closure. Designer's label at inside waistband: "Givenchy"; under designer's label is hidden design/style # tag with handwritten notation: "54783" B) Belt of cream silk gauze-backed silk jersey, 2" wide x 30" long, completely covered in beading matching bodice. Hook-and-eye closure at ends. No marks/labels on belt.
Hat of green and white felted fur. The hat has a domed, circular crown and an asymmetrical up-turning brim. The crown and inner part of the brim are dyed in a green and white "op-art" pattern of geometric shapes which can be viewed as small green shapes on larger white shapes on a green ground. The outer part of the brim is dyed solid green. At one side is an arrow-shaped ornament of green grosgrain ribbon, the tail of which extends out over the brim and curls upwards. Inside the crown is a hatband of green grosgrain ribbon. Sewn to the hatband ribbon is a large designer's tag: "Schiaparelli / Paris". Stamped inside the crown "Body / Made In Italy"
Jacket of black satin and black mink fur. Short, cropped jacket with high rounded neckline and full-length set-in sleeves made in heavy silk satin. Center front opening without closure devices. Neckline, front opening and cuffs trimmed in black mink fur. Fully lined in black silk. Designer's label at inside center back below collar: "Made in France / Automne-Hiver 1962 / Christian Dior / Paris"and s Style number stamped on label: "117880"
Bolero style evening jacket of off-white silk with clear beads and rhinestones. Long sleeves. Collarless with single hook & eye closure. Three dimensional beaded flowers trimming jacket and cuffs. Designer's label: "Boutique / Christian Dior / Paris / Made in France" Style number stamped on designer's label: "652551"
Platform heel in red and white floral print on black ground. Shoes designed as open-toed pumps set on high platform at front, with wide band across vamp, open sides, and sling back which springs from a wide "Y" shaped strap. High, chunky heels taper slightly to base. Shoes covered with all-over print of large stylized flowers of red and white on a black ground. Designer's label inside: "Andrea Pfister / Paris" Marked on sole: "a / Made in Italy" and "35 1/2"
Evening sandals of gold metallic leather. Single wide strap across vamp, with another strap across top of foot, joining to strap around heel. Top strap secures with small gold buckle, and has applied gold leather bow with trailing ends. High heel tapers to base. Designer's label: "Roger / Vivier / Paris"
Pair of reddish-pink or coral silk satin evening pumps. Square toe shoes which have a large open area on the vamp which is backed by clear plastic and edged by braid. The plastic is overlaid with a metal net or chain mail with rhinestones at the intersections. 2 1/4" square heel covered with same material. Lined in off-white/gray leather. Stamped inside each shoe: "Made in Italy / Espressly / For / Lou Lattimore" (Espressly rather than Expressly); and "Creation Mancini / Paris / Waltea made in Italy" Stamped on sole of each shoe: "8"
Hat of black and bronze velvet. Based on a pillbox, the low, domed crown is of black velvet, with top finial of a crossed bronze velvet ribbon with trailing ribbons and a black curling feather with two long thin black feathers. The sides of the hat are composed of two horizontal bands of velvet, the upper of bronze color, the lower of black. The whole hat is overlaid by black net veiling with wide mesh. The unlined felt body has an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label: "Originals / by / Michael Terre / Southern California" Stamped inside: "Jacomet / Body made in France"
Evening dress of black and white wool satin gaberdine with matching jacket. a) Evening dress. Front and back centered panels of white fabric with sides of black fabric. Sleeveless, squared neckline, full length. Center back zipper closure. Very tailored, completely lined in white silk. Designer's label at inside back zipper: "Jean Marie Armand / Paris / Made in France" b) Jacket. Center front opening with four covered snaps. Bracelet length sleeves with turned-back cuffs in white fabric with one pointed end. Peter Pan collar in white fabric. Front and back centered panels of white fabric with sides and sleeves of black fabric. Completely lined in white silk. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Jean Marie Armand / Paris / Made in France"
Two piece day suit. a) Jacket of burnt orange, moss green, and burgundy wool bouclé. Round neckline. Burnt orange braid at collar, center front and hem. Cuffs trimmed in rope braid and reversed side bouclé inserts. Faux french-cuffs of silk ikat taffeta at end of sleeves. 4 buttons covered with red silk and boarded with reverse of bouclé wool. Center front extension of reversed bouclé and buttons holes in seam, not welt. Patch pockets with V-shaped detail using matching trim, lined in ikat silk. Back hem weighed down by gilt, heavy chain. Designers Label inside back neckline: "Chanel" Style Number tag on back of Designer's Label: "09603" Attached hanging tag: "Made in France" Retailer's Label in Front Right Hem: "Neiman-Marcus" b) Skirt of wool bouclé in 3/4 length. Back zipper with hook & eyes. Narrow waistband of red silk. Front panel lined in red silk. Hemmed with 2" wide orange hem lace. No labels.
Hat of light beige fur felt. Domed crown with wide, folded brim. Two bows of self under the back rim. Headband of light gray grosgrain ribbon. Unlined. Designer's label at inside headband: "Miss Dior / Created by / Christian Dior" Stamp on inside crown: "Helios / Body Made in Italy"
Coat of deep pink and white plaid wool. Double breasted with six circular plastic deep pink buttons and covered buttonholes. Bracelet length sleeves; street length. Two front vertical single welt pockets. Half belt across back of same material with two circular plastic deep pink buttons and covered buttonholes at ends. Lined in deep pink silk. Designer's label: "Balenciaga / 10, Avenue George V. Paris"
Dress of turquoise colored sateen cotton. Sleeveless with square yoked bodice. Lines of horizontal top stitching over body of dress. Two front patch pockets. Center front decorative short, white, plastic zipper. Back zipper closure with hook & eye. Knee length, but hem has been removed. Designer's label at inside back zipper: "Courrèges / Paris / made in france" Style number stamped on designer's label:"0078019" Care instruction/fabric content tag attached to bottom of designer's label.
Suit of cream/blue/pink wool boucle. A) Waist-length jacket with round neckline and no collar, two-piece set-in long sleeves, four patch pockets on front, and center-front opening with 5 circular sculptural lion-head gold-tone metal buttons. Matching non-functional buttons sewn on each pocket and on cuffs. Neckline, opening, cuffs, and top edges of pockets with rolled(?) edging. Fully lined in pink silk. Inside bottom hemline weighted with gold chain. No labels. B) Skirt of same material. Below-knee-length. Slim, almost straight, flaring slightly to hem. Narrow waistband with two hook-and-eye closures, just above zipper closure. Lined in pink silk. No labels.
Cocktail suit of black silk satin consisting of: A) Waist-length jacket formed of vertically arranged heat-set pleats with five horizontal bands applied across the pleats. There is a panel of ivory/off-white silk extending from the neck of the jacket, forming the collar of the jacket and simulating the effect of a blouse being worn under the jacket. The long sleeves are also pleated, with single band near the base of the sleeves, from which extend ivory/off-white silk mock cuffs. Center front opening with three applied black bows on the lower three horizontal bands. The opening is secured with three hook-and-loop closures hidden by the bows. Lined in black silk. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Chanel" Style number tag beneath designer's label: "10967" B) Matching mid-length skirt of similarly pleated black silk, with a plain waistband and a single horizontal black silk band 2" below the waistband. Three hook-and-loops in the waistband, and four snaps along closure at left hip. Skirt has a single panel of organza lining in back, the rest of the skirt being unlined to allow more movement of the fabric.
Hat of taupe leather. The soft-sided crown is somewhat domed. The brim is turned up, forming a "cuff" around the crown. At front is a large bow of the same leather. The hat is lined in white, and has an inner hatband of taupe grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label: "Balenciaga / 10, Avenue George V. Paris" Origin label: "Made in France"
White leather mini-skirt with 4 applied black leather bands running horizontally around skirt. White leather suspenders attached at back, cross at back, and run over shoulders to fasten at circular white leather-covered buttons on waistband in front. Fully lined in white nylon. Shirt does not fit tight at waist. Pictured with black knit turtle-neck top, long-sleeves. Designer's label: "Courreges / Exclusively Designed in / Leather and Fabric for / Samuel Robert"
Dress of bright lime green wool. Knee-lenght and sleeveless, with a high neckline ornamented with 6 rows of topstitching. Empire waisted, with the lower portion of dress split into four long panels, scalloped to form petals with quilted, topstitched edges. Center back zipper with two hook & eyes. Upper portion of dress lined in lime colored acetate. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York" Retailer's label beneath designer's label: "Marie Leavell"
Pantsuit of orange and ivory polyester double knit. a) Blouse has Peter Pan collar and full yoke of ivory polyester. Orange knit fitted bodice has cap sleeves. Flares slightly below waist. Self fabric belt buckles around hips. Zipper CB. Designer label removed. b) Orange hip-hugger pants are straight legged, stopping above ankles. Overlapping hook and eye closure. Zipper CF. Entire suit is lined in white polysatin. Designer's label at inside center back: "Courreges / Paris" Label below designer's label: "Made in France 0" Retailer's label: "Made in France / Exclusively for / Bonwit Teller"
Dress of brown/beige coffee-colored wool. The short, A-line dress with shallow boat-neckline, short, cap-sleeves. Front and back of dress with diamond-shaped motif created by slot seams with cream background/under layer. Similar seaming across top of sleeves and joining diamond motifs around sides. Center back zipper with hook-and-eye at neckline. Lined in off-white silk(?). Designer's label: "Jean Marie Armand / Paris / Made in France" Retailer's label: "Made in France especially for / Neiman-Marcus"
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