Evening coat of brocade and fur. The full-length coat is of a pale yellow silk brocade, with a pattern of flowers and scrolls in reds, purples, blues, white, silver, and gold. It has long sleeves and opens along the center front, with no closures. The cuffs and collar are wide bands of dyed purple fox fur. The coat is lined in a pale tan/yellow silk. Sewn in below collar at inside center back is designer's label: "Designed / by Mouratidis / Washington DC" Attached inside right side near hip is original paper label printed on one side "Balenciaga / Paris", and written on the back "Brocade evening mystery / coat w/fox / R". Donated to the Texas Fashion Collection by Helen Noumas, in memory of her partner Michael Mouratidis, designer of the piece.
Skirt suit of purple worsted wool. A) Jacket has collar with long lapel with geometric cut edge; geometric cuts along hem line; double breasted snap closure with 2 purple faux buttons at front; princess seams; long sleeves with vents at the wrists, and inner shoulder pads; hits at hips. B) Skirt with two vents at front hemline; center-back zip and hook and eye closure; 19 ½” length. Designer's label: "Thierry Mugler / Paris" "Made in France"
Evening gown of red silk jersey with strapless bodice; bodice is fan pleated, with pleating converging at center front and back in a triangle; full-length with dipped hem in back; fully lined in red silk satin; left side zip closure; bust support structure within bodice with side hook and eye closure. Size 4 Designer's label: "Carmen Marc Valvo"
Evening ensemble of brown silk jersey and sequined appliques. A) Dress. Sleeveless, the full-length sheath dress has 1” wide straps which are embellished with length-wise decorative top stitching. The dress has an empire waist, and a modified sweetheart neckline. The bust is covered with floral/leaf form appliques which are covered in translucent brown sequins and edged in gold metallic thread. Center back zipper closure from top to mid-back, and slit from center back lower hem upwards. Lined in brown polyester. B) Jacket. The matching jacket is of bolero form, cropped short, with no collar and a slightly undulating neckline which continues along the edges of the center front opening, and the lower edge. Long sleeves have cuffs with same edging. The whole jacket is overlaid with floral/leaf form velvet appliques edged in metallic gold threading and covered with sequins in various shades of brown. Jacket has inner shoulder pads and is lined in brown polyester. Designer's label: "Liancarlo / Couture" Retailer's label: "Neiman Marcus"
Evening dress of green crepe with strapless bodice with wide M-shape neckline; bodice is gathered in a zig-zag wrapping and tucking down center-front to hips; skirt wraps around to the left; ankle-length; center-back zip closure; lined in green synthetic. No labels in garment.
Evening gown of brown silk. The full-length gown is strapless, with stitched horizontal pleats at left bodice; skirt wraps over toward the left and both crescent shaped sides are trimmed in a pleated ruffle flounce with a shorter ruffle flounce revealing the longer one; bound edges and hemline; lined in brown acetate; center-back zip closure. Designer's label: "Liancarlo / Couture" Retailer's label: "Neiman Marcus"
Evening gown of black velvet. The strapless, full-length gown is tulip-style, with structured bodice and flaring skirt from just below hip. The interior is lined in acetate with skirt slip trimmed in 2 ruffles of fine net. Inside the bottom of the skirt are 2 under-skirts of ruffled fine net. Gown has a center-back zipper and hook-and-eye closure. Designer's label at inside back: "Patricia Rhodes / PR" Size label: "6" Content/Care label.
Coat of intricate patchwork of Prince of Wales wool plaid, wool hounds tooth, wool petit point, all-over embroidered with pewter metallic floral vines. Knee length. Simulated double breasted, off-center opening with hidden placket button closure; notched collar. Long sleeves with 6 functioning button closure at wrists. Two flap pockets with welts at each front hip with lapels; pockets not open. Knee-length. Fan pleating at back. Fully lined in gray silk. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Givenchy / Haute Couture"
Dress of violet, pink, blue and grey silk chiffon printed in a rose motif. Full-length, with rounded neckline and full-length sleeves that flare and are split at wrist. Skirt gathered at natural waist. Skirt with middle layer of dark pink chiffon, and inner lining layer of pink nylon(?). Center back opening, bodice with 7 button and loops and 8 covered snaps, and one hook-and-eye at neck. Skirt with 2 covered snaps on outer layer, zipper for attached inner layers, and hook-and-loop just below waistband. Designer's label at inside back, just below waist: "[Japanese characters] / Hanae Mori" Retailer's label at inside back, below waist: "Neiman-Marcus" Size label attached to designer's label: "12" With a chiffon scarf, of fabric matching outer layer of dress.
Jacket of Golden Spotted Seal fur with rounded collar and lapels; double breasted button accents with buttons of pearl grey circle set in gold metallic soft square; 4 fur covered belt loops, 2 on front and 2 on back, front belt loops are accented with self-buttons (right side button missing); two slit pockets at sides are lined in grey silk satin; long sleeves, pockets and jacket opening are trimmed in leather piping; 2 concealed metal hook and leather eye closures, one at bust and one at waist; fully lined in grey silk satin; hits at below hips. Label inside coat: Expressly made for William Schmidt/ OSLO/ 1853. With belt of black leather with oval, silver metal buckle; 2” width.
Dress of silk chiffon in blue flower motif on red background. About knee-length, the dress has a scoop neckline and butterfly sleeves. Waistline tucks and straight skirt. Center back opening with closure of two snaps with small bow of self as trim. Lined in red rayon. Designer's label at back neckline: "Hanae Mori / Tokyo New York" Retailer's label to right of designer label: "Neiman-Marcus" Fiber content, cleaning instructions and size "8" label to left of center back opening. With a matching scarf/sash of same fabric.
Ensemble of silk with printed patterns of diagonal stripes and color blocks of pale gray, orange/brown, brown, etc. in diagonal stripes, with brocade of dark brown "spots". A) Blouse. Short torso, with single-breasted center front opening with 6 self-covered small domed buttons and single hidden snap. Band or "Ascot" collar with long extended ends to tie at front. Modified batwing sleeves with cuffs having single self-covered button and hidden snap. Wide, shaped band at lower hem of blouse, with pointed sections at front, curving up at sides, and back down at center back. Center back with DEEP inner vent. Unlined. Designer's label at inside back collar: "Hanae Mori / Boutique" B) Skirt. Below-knee length A-line skirt with narrow waist band having hook-and-bar and concealed snap at center back, below which is zipper. Fully lined in brown silk(?) Designer's label at back right inside waistband: "Hanae Mori / Boutique" Size label beside designer's label: "12" Content/care label below size label: "100% Silk / D.C.O." and "Care Instructions / Dry Clean / Only" Union label below content/care label.
Dress in shift style of violet, blue and pink flower motif silk with outer layer of black chiffon. Attached cape overlay on back in black chiffon with matching flower motif. Square neck elasticized at shoulders scoops in back; elbow length butterfly sleeves of black chiffon. Center back zipper with hook & eye on dress and covered snaps on cape. Lined in black rayon. Designer's label at back neckline: "(Japanese characters) / Hanae Mori" Size "10" tag attached to base of designer label. Content/care label at back neckline. Retailer's label on center back seam of dress near hem: "Neiman-Marcus"
Dress of synthetic taffeta in black polka dots on white background. Scoop neck; knee length. Sleeveless; back of dress is halter cut. False attached vest with solid black knit insets, stitched in silver metallic thread and trimmed in silver metallic ribbon. Front of dress is black knit, V-shaped with curved flat pleats at each side of the V at waist. Center back hidden zipper. Lined ivory crepe synthetic (polyester?). Designer's label at center back to right of zipper: "Geoffrey Beene / New York" Size "6" tag, cleaning instructions and union label attached to base of zipper.
A) Evening dress of violet silk chiffon with a printed motif of wisteria flowers and butterflies, with beaded butterflies on the right sleeve and left side. Street length, with rounded neckline. Long sleeves have pleats at wrists giving the appearance of a ruffled cuff. Center back opening with seven self-covered buttons and loops. No labels in garment. B) Slip/under dress of violet silk crepe. Center back zipper with hook & eye. No labels in garment.
Dress of silk chiffon printed with a grey and purple flower motif. Round neckline; long sleeves with 1" cuffs and closure of two self-covered snaps. Below knee length. Skirt gathers at natural waist with elastic waistband. Waistband has narrow belt loops; belt missing. Center back opening of six self-covered snaps with hook & eye at neckline. Bodice lined in gray silk chiffon; skirt lined in gray synthetic. Designer's label at left side seam of skirt lining: "(Japanese characters) / Hanae Mori" Size "10" tag attached to base of designer label. Retailer's label to left of designer label: "Neiman-Marcus"
Dress of printed silk chiffon in floral pattern of shades of aqua and turquoise blue with purple and magenta pansies. Rounded neckline; street length. Long straight sleeves have self-covered snap closure. Natural waist has elastic waistband and gathered skirt. Belt loops at sides; belt missing. Center back closure of nine self-covered snaps. Lined in beige synthetic. Designer's label at left side seam under arm: "(Japanese Characters) / Hanae Mori" Size "12" tag at base of designer label. Retailer's label at right side seam under arm: "Neiman-Marcus"