Dinner dress of printed silk organza. The dress is composed of two parts. The caftan-like outer layer of the dress consists of a square silk organza cocoon printed in psychedelic motifs in purples, blues, pinks and chartreuse. It has a high rounded neckline with center back opening secured with six loops and covered buttons. There are applied flat cuffs at the wrist openings and waist-level slits at center front to accommodate the sash. There is a center front slit from hem to knee-level. The inner dress is a matching, full-length, sleeveless sheath in printed silk of the same design. It has a high rounded neckline with center back zipper closure from neck to hip with a single hook-and-eye closure at the neckline. The outer caftan and inner sheath are joined at the neckline. There is a printed silk organza sash of the same fabric that meets at center front and secures with two hook-and-eye closures and has self ties to disguise closure. The sash is swing tacked at the back. There is a center front slit from the hem to knee-level. Lime green silk panels are inset at sideseams, running from the underarm to the hem, and may be later additions to the garment. The dress is fully lined in green silk crepe. Designer's label located inside left center back, beside the zipper: Pierre Cardin / Paris New York". Retailer's label located inside right center back, beside the zipper: "Maisonette / Neiman-Marcus"
Pair of platform sandals. Silver leather covered black plastic(?) sole with silver metal lace and cords. 4" spike set-back heel. Marked in relief on sole of each shoe: "Made in France". Anonymous gift to the Texas Fashion Collection.
Dress of polychrome cotton print. The floor-length dress is of cotton fabric with a raised "zig-zag" texture, in the style of cotton piqué weaving. It is printed with a series of horizontal bands in geometric designs in blues, reds, greens, tan/brown, orange, and purple. The sleeveless dress has a shallow boat neckline in front and deep squared-off neckline at back. The fitted bodice section ends at the natural waist, into which the long skirt is slightly gathered. The front of the skirt has two patch pockets of the same material, with the print matched to disguise the pockets. One of the lower bands of the skirt is embellished with applied non-functional circular gold-colored "buttons". The hem of the dress has a 7 cm. wide band horizontal band of red wool trim, from which hangs red wool fringe. The center back zipper closure has a single hook-and-eye at top. The dress is lined in red fabric. The dress has two labels sewn inside. At left side at seam is designer's label "Lanvin / Paris New York"; at right side near zipper is size label "6".
Ensemble consisting of a dress and jacket of brown and white printed silk plaid or tartan. The waist-length jacket has a turn-down collar and wrist-length sleeves. It is single-breasted with a center front opening with four large circular brown plastic buttons and piped buttonholes. The jacket is fully lined in off-white silk. Designer's label located inside below center back of collar: "Made in / France / Givenchy". The matching dress is mid-length, to just below the knee, with round neck and princess seaming. It is sleeveless, and has box pleats at lower part of skirt. There is a zipper closure at left side. The dress is lined with off-white silk throughout with the exception of the box pleated area. Designer's label at inside side seam near right armhole: "Givenchy".
Coat of silk gazar with a printed pattern of red and white polka dots on a black background. The mid-length to below-knee length coat has a rolled collar and short sleeves with princess seaming. There is a center-front opening with 5 circular buttons covered with black gazar, and with piped buttonholes. At some seams are applied whole red or white polka dots where the seams had "cut" printed polka dots. Coat has designer's label at inside back, below collar: "Givenchy", folded over and sewn in a way that obscures the rest of the label: "Made In / France". This coat is part of an ensemble that includes a dress of black gazar, and has matching shoes of same fabric made by Roger Vivier of Paris (1979.011.076) Donor notes: "This is the fabric that was invented for Balenciaga and now only Givenchy can have it .... [the coat] is made so that if a dot had to be cut in half at a noticeable place, Givenchy had a whole dot appliqued over it. Monsieur Givenchy does not do this tedious handwork for all clients."
Pair of deep wine red leather pumps. Shoes have a V-throat on vamp and are edged with thin bands of taupe leather around vamp and along outside panel ending in a triangular shape. 3 1/2" Continental set-back heel almost a stiletto, but wider and more oval in cross-section. Stamped in each shoe: "Charles Jourdan / Paris" and "Orient". Stamped inside each heel: "39 B / 63586 E". Stamped on sole: "Leather / Leder / Cuir / Made in / France"
Sleeveless coat of navy on white zebra printed wool. The street-length coat is of slight A-line, widening to hem. It has wide straps, no collar, and center front opening with 5 circular dark blue plastic buttons. At each hip is a patch pocket with simulated flap, the fabric of the pockets chosen to match the placement on the print. The coat is fully lined in navy fabric. Inside neckline at back is designer's label "Givenchy", folded so that "Made In / France" is not visible. This coat is part of an ensemble that includes a blue wool jersey knit top and slacks. Donor noted that it was "Made for Monte Carlo for day wear". There is also a hat that was worn with the ensemble (1978.013.062)
Ensemble of printed silk. The full-length dress is of silk with a printed design of abstract flower forms in red, blue, purple, white, yellow and green on a black ground. It has a rounded neckline and long sleeves which have fabric covered snaps at the wrists. The bodice is seamed and fitted, and the skirt is slightly A-line, flaring to hem. Center back closure, top third is hook-and-eyes, the lower two-thirds is a zipper. The dress is fully lined in black silk. Designer's label sewn inside bodice near waist: "Givenchy". Underneath label is a second label with handwritten notation "48245". The matching coat is of the same print on a heavier weight silk. It is full-length, with a standing collar which has internal wiring for support. The sleeves are full-length, and it has a center front opening which secures with a single fabric-covered snap just below collar. The coat is unlined. Designer's label sewn inside coat at right near waist: "Givenchy". Underneath label is a second label with handwritten notation "48246" This ensemble was made for the donor to wear to the wedding of Maria del Carmen Martinez-Bordiu y Franco, (1951- ) granddaughter of General Franco, to Don Alfonso, Duke of Anjou and Cádiz (1936 - 1989), son of Infante Jaime of Spain, Duke of Segovia and grandson of King Alfonso XIII of Spain. The wedding took place in the chapel of El Pardo Palace, Madrid, on 8th March 1972. The donor noted: "It was designed by Monsieur Givenchy especially for me. Balenciaga was alive, though he had closed his house, and Givenchy consulted with him on this outfit. You can see Balenciaga's line to it. ... Givenchy had the two distinct fabrics printed in the same design -- one for dress and one for coat. He said it must ...
Pair of platform sandals. Shoes have gold kid leather upper, the vamp knotted. Black patent leather covered soles and heels. 4 1/4" high block-style set-back heel. Written on inside of back strap on each shoe: "5 1/2 B 342440". Stamped on each shoe: "Charles Jourdan / Paris"
Pair of shoes of ivory leather and black patent leather. Made in the "spectator" style, the rounded toe-box, the 4" high blocky heel, and the lower part of the heel upper are of black patent leather, while the rest of the upper is of ivory leather. The black patent leather panels are decorated with white stitching along the edges. Lined in brown leather. Designer label: "Xavier Danaud / Paris" Handwritten inside: "7 1/2 B 2019"
Pair of pumps of cream silk with black polka-dots. Shoe has pointed toe, and large "pom-pom" rosette at center of vamp made of loops of same fabric. Stiletto heel covered in same fabric. Designer's label stamped inside: "Designed by / Roger Vivier / Paris" Retailer's label stamped inside: "Neiman-Marcus" Handwritten inside: "8aaa / 2-78134w / 1511"
Pair of evening pumps of pale blue and gold floral forms brocade. Designed with pointed toes, the shoes have uppers of of blue and gold brocade with large circular gold colored metal disc at vamp, set with rhinestones, and with a wide ribbon of same brocade extending from beneath the button to outside edge. 2 1/2" high modified Louis heel is covered with same brocade and tapers to base. Designer's stamp inside: "Roger Vivier / Paris" and "sur mesure"
Pair of pumps of aqua blue and white printed peau de soie silk. Shoe is designed with a gently pointed toe, and thick heel that tapers to base. Shoe upper is of white silk printed with pale blue abstract pattern. Designer's label stamped inside: "Roger Viver / Paris" Stamped inside: "sur mesure" Handwritten inside: "4170"
Pair of pumps of black faille. The shoes are designed with rounded toe and plain uppers. At top of vamp is large circular plaque of black faille edged in rhinestones and with rhinestone circular ornament at lower edge. Modified Louis heel. Designer's label inside: "Charles Jourdan / Paris"
Pair of heeled pumps of brown silk. Designed with slightly pointed toe and platform, the instep is crossed by a gold chain with squared links which extends back along outside of foot to near heel. Heel covered with same fabric, tapering slightly to base. Designer's label: "Roger Vivier / Paris" These shoes were made to match a dress by Givenchy.
Pair of heeled sandals of green kid leather. The rounded-toe shoes have a slight platform, and are constructed with groups of straps crossing from side to side on diagonals. One strap extends behind heel, and is secured with small buckle. Thick heel covered with same leather, and tapers slightly to base. Designer's label: "Andrea Pfister / Paris / Made in Italy" Logo on sole: "A / Made in Italy"
Pair of dark teal blue patent leather and clear plastic pumps. The shoes are designed as sling-back pumps, with a pointed toe. The open toe has a wide band of clear plastic across vamp. Sides and heel are cut-away, with a dark teal blue patent leather strap attached to instep strap, curving from the inside side of the foot, over instep, around the outside of wearer's ankle and back around heel, to secure on opposite side at about ankle, securing with single gold-tone buckle. The inner sole is of off-white leather with brown suede inset. High (3 7/8 (9.8cm) modified continental heels, almost a stiletto, covered in matching dark teal blue leather. Heel: 3 7/8" (9.8 cm) Designer's stamp inside: "Charles Jourdan / Paris / Made in France" Written on strap: "6 1/2 B 10702113 RP" Stamped on sole: "Leather / Made in / France"
Pair of black patent leather pumps with red metallic embellishments. Designed with pointed toes, the heeled pumps have black patent leather uppers with an applied diamond-shaped plaque at instep consisting of black patent leather panel overlaid with panel of red metallic/anodized dots. The shoes are lined in red leather, and the 3 1/2" thick modified spike heels are covered in the same red metallic dots. Designer's label: "Charles Jourdan / Paris"; "Osiris Stamped inside: "39X 7 B 141684" Stamped on sole: "Leather / Leder / Cuir / Made in / France"
Pair of pumps of coral red leather. Designed with pointed toes, the shoes have a plain upper of polished coral red leather. The heel is a modified stiletto, thick, and tapering to base. Designer's label: "Charles Jourdan / Paris" Handwritten inside: "7 B 38327 S C" Stamped on sole: "Leather / Leder / Cuir / Made in / France"
Suit of navy blue wool with window pane plaid in white. a) Jacket of navy blue wool in window pane plaid in white. Double breasted with circular, blue buttons. Notched collar. Long sleeves. Fully lined in navy silk. Designer's label at back neckline: "Givenchy / Made in France" (b) Skirt of same fabric. Thigh down is pleated. Upper skirt is lined in navy silk. Left side zipper. (c) White blouse of heavy silk. Neck has extra fabric to tie a bow or knot.
Ensemble of burgundy crepe a) Jacket is hip-length, and has round collar; bodice opens at center front, and has wide waistband that fastens with 2 self-buttons and loops. Gathered into waistband is peplum with circular ruffle; long sleeves are gathered at armhole have circular ruffles going down and around sleeves; b) Dress is below-knee-lenght, and has low V-neck formed by wide shoulder straps which button to lower back of dress; set-in empire waistline; sleeveless; bias cut skirt; zipper at left side back. Designer's label: "Ossie Clark / Paris" "Made in France" Handwritten style label: "59115 - 38 - 97727/19.92"
Choker of satin and feathers. Neck band of 1 1/2" double faced black satin ribbon with double hooks at ends. At center is rosette of hackle and guinea feathers in black, brownish, and white spots. Tag sewn to one end of ribbon stating "Made in France", Style/model "Uo 28", color "Black, and other notes that are illegible. Made to go with an evening dress by Ungaro.
Pillbox hat of black jersey. The cylindrical crown has a flat, slightly recessed top, and bands of black silk ribbon decoration applied horizontally around sides. Upper and lower bands are of plain layered ribbon forming slightly molded bands, while central band is of twisted/folded/worked ribbon creating a dimensional braided pattern. Hat is lined in black satin, with inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband and a single small faux turtle shell comb to help secure it to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Givenchy / Paris" "Made in / France"
Hat of blue gabardine. Roughly cylindrical soft crown, able to be creased somewhat, with flat top. Encircled at base by band of same blue gabardine, with flat, wide bow at left side. Brim of same, extending out and downwards at gentle angle. Edge with wide top-stitched band as outer border. Crown is lined with dark blue, and with dark blue gray grosgrain inner hatband. Designer's label on inner hatband: "Givenchy / Paris"; "Made in / France"
Picture hat of multicolored printed silk. The low, cylindrical crown is flattened at top, and is encircled by the wide, flat brim. The hat is covered in silk printed with a floral print of purple, pink, white, blue, olive, and green on black ground. The underside of the brim is lined in the same fabric, while the crown is lined in black fabric, with a black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label inside: "Givenchy / Paris"; "Made in / France"
Cocktail hat of black velvet. The hat has a high, cylindrical crown with flattened top, and a wide brim which curves downwards. Around the base of the crown is tied a wide piece of black net veiling, with bow at back. The veiling "pools" on the sides and front of the brim, and then extends down to cover wearer's face. The brim is lined with the same velvet, while the crown is lined in black satin, with an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label inside: "Givenchy / Paris"; "Made in / France"
Pumps of dark wine/burgundy/red-brown leather. The shoes are designed with pointed toes and a rounded vamp. The plain uppers have a thin "mary jane" strap across ankle, with small gold buckle at outside edge. The high, continental heels are elongated, appearing as a thick spike or stiletto, and are covered in the same leather. Lined in beige leather. Designer's stamp in both: "Charles Jourdan / Made in Spain Parallele" Stamped inside: "2319 4 AA 8" Stamped on sole: "Leather / Leder / Cuir / Made in / Spain".
D'Orsay pumps of light brown camel colored leather. Designed with slightly pointed toes and rounded vamp, the leather uppers of the toebox are embellished with thin bands of pierced circular dots around vamp and in a chevron shape extending from either side of toe to a point near vamp. Cut-away sides showing thin platform covered in same leather. Upper heel of same leather, with curved edges, and thin ankle strap of same leather, with small gilt buckle on outside edge. High, elongated continental stacked heel of dark brown wood layered in horizontal bands, the shape similar to a spike or stiletto. Lined with black leather. Designer's stamp on lining: "Charles Jourdan / Paris / Made in France" Handwritten inside: "B 3565[illeg] MA U"
Dress of bright red/orange wool knit. Mid-length. Slight banded collar with V-neckline. Short sleeves with 2" cuff band and back yoke panel which form a chevron shape over the shoulders. Center front opening to 14" above hemline of hidden snaps, hooks-and-eyes. Simulated belt at natural waistline that has a hook-and-eye closure and tab which buttons on left side with orange, domed-shaped button and tailored buttonhole. Lined in matching rayon. Designer's label inside at back collar: "Courreges / Paris / Couture Future / made in France" Fabric/care label: "Fabrique en France / Dry Clean Only / No Bleach Do not iron / [line of symbols] / Modele / Style 14027 / 100% wool / 100% Rayonne / [repeated in French]"
Coat of brown camel's hair. Street length with wide, flat collar and lapels. Two patch pockets with flaps on front. Double breasted with four buttons (two and two) closure and attached matching belt. Belt is in three segments, with non-functional buttons "attaching" the segments at back. Lined in brown silk. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Automne-Hiver 1970 / Christian Dior / Paris" Stamped on label: "152510"
Box jacket of ivory wool. Bracelet length, raglan sleeves. Convertible collar. Single breasted with three cream colored plastic buttons and tailored buttonholes. Top stitching on seams. Sleeves lined in cream colored silk. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Automne-Hiver 1973 / Christian Dior / Paris / Made in France" and stamped 02766 Retailer's label at center back neckline: "Lou Lattimore / Dallas"
Dress ensemble of red lace with dark brown and metallic gold embroidery in floral design. A) Dress. Calf length with rolled collar. Four-snap closure down center front. Elastic waistline. Long straight sleeves with band cuffs and snap closure. Scalloped hem. Unlined. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Miss Dior / Made in France" B) Skirt of red silk. Straight with 1" waistband. Center back closure of covered hook & eye on waistband and 2 snaps. Evidence of four removed darts. C) Belt of self-covered leather; 2" wide. Gold circle buckle with two hooks and three pairs of grommets for closure.
Suit of black wool consisting of: Jacket of almost hip-length, with no collar; double breasted, with V neckline and 4 buttons center front, in rows of two. Two flap pockets front; two bust darts; Long sleeves with single button cuffs. Built-in shoulder pads, and fully lined. Designer's label at inside back neck: "Christian Dior / The Suit / Paris New York" Care label below Designer's label: "Dry Clean / Made in U.S.A." Content label at side seam: "100% / Pure Wool"; "Professionally / Dry Clean / Low Moisture / Steam Press" Skirt. Calf length, with narrow waistband. Knife pleated, with side zipper and button. Unlined.
Day dress of green corduroy with blue, red and black trim. Drop waist style with 3 tier gathered skirt; below knee length. Center front placket opening with 3 small green buttons and loops. Long gathered sleeves with 2-1/4" cuffs with matching button and barred buttonhole. Gathered ruff collar. Unlined. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Kenzo / Paris" Size and fiber/cleaning instruction tags below designer's label.
Day dress of white cotton drill consisting of: A) Jacket. Two vertical welt mock pockets at upper sides. Long, full set-in sleeves, gathered at shoulders with 2-1/2" cuffs and small white plastic button with tailored buttonhole. Wrap shawl collar with 2" ruffle two hook & eyes as closure. Short peplum. Unlined. With belt of self. 1" x 38" with D-ring closure. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Kenzo / Paris" Size tag "M" and fiber content/cleaning instructions tag attached to bottom of designer's label. B) Skirt in wrap around style. Knee length. Continental pockets at sides. Closure of 2 buttons (one missing) and hook & eye. Unlined. Designer's label at center back: "Kenzo / Paris" Size "42" tag and fiber content/cleaning instructions tag attached to bottom of designer's label.
Dress of bright red/orange wool. Mid-length, the dress's collar is a variant of a band collar, standing at back and sides, tapering slightly to front and open at front with V-neckline opening below created by wrapped front opening. Short sleeves have a 2" cuff band, and the back yoke panel forms a chevron shape over the shoulders. Front opening with closure of hidden snaps and hooks & eyes down to hemline. Simulated belt at natural waistline that has a hook & eye closure and tab which buttons on left side with orange, domed-shaped button and tailored buttonhole. Lined in matching rayon. Designer's label inside at back collar: "Courreges / Paris / Couture Future / made in France" Fabric/care label: "Fabrique en France / Dry Clean Only / No Bleach Do not iron / [line of symbols] / Modele / Style 14027 / 100% wool / 100% Rayonne / [repeated in French]" Retailer's label above designer's label: "Palm Beach / Martha / New York Miami Beach"
Evening dress of light aqua blue polyester. Full length, slightly A-lined. Straight neckline with 1/2" shoulder straps; left shoulder strap closes with hook & eye. Deep U-shaped back with 5 horizontal rows of matching 1/2" straps having attached matching bows and additional bow at base of U. Mock horizontal welt pockets at hips. Left side zipper with hook & eye. Lined in light blue acetate. Designer's label at center front neckline: "Courréges / Paris / made in France" Content/cleaning tag below designer's label state style number "17021"
Sweater of horizontal stripes of aqua blues cotton knit. V-neck of dark aqua 1" wide ribbed knit. Long sleeves with four bands attached to each other with open weave of dark blue, top band is dark blue, middle band is slightly lighter blue, and final two bands are lightest shade of blue. Torso constructed similar to sleeves, with dark blue panel across top of shoulders, slightly lighter blue across upper chest and back, lightest blue across bust and then from bust line to bottom hem. Bottom hem and cuffs 2.5" ribbed knit. Unlined. Designer label at center back neck: "Couregges / Paris / Made in France" (with "AC" logo to right) Extensive care label underneath designer label.
Two-piece ensemble of black satin. Blouse of wrap style, with surplice neckline squared at across back and front to collar bones, plunging into a V at front, and with long sleeves. Neckline, hem, and sleeves edged in 2" wide band of trapunto quilting work consisting of 6 rows of stitching. Long sleeves have 3" zippers at cuffs. 1-inch wide attached belt ties in back. Unlined. No labels in bodice. Matching skirt. Black, below-knee length, with narrow waistband into which skirt is gathered. Left side zipper, with hooks and eyes at waistband. Unlined. Inside Label, typewritten on cloth tape: " JUPE 43 011020 NEIMAN MARCUS" or possibly "JUPE 43 OTTO 20 NEIMAN MARCUS"
Dress of black cotton net embroidered with red, white, tan, brown, green and gold floral designs. Gathered scooped neckline interlaced with narrow, pale green silk grosgrain ribbon and scalloped and embroidered organdy ruffling, which is also used at wrist, waist, hip line and hem. Gathered ankle-length skirt. Left side zipper with hook & eye on lining and snaps on outer net layer. Skirt has additional under layer of black net. Bodice and skirt lined with silk chiffon; black grosgrain ribbon petersham with hook & eye at waist. Designer's label at center back waist: "Christian Dior / Paris / Made In France / Printemps-Ete 1978" and stamped "0I0052" Label attached at base of designer's label: "Made In France" Neiman Marcus size and content label attached at bottom of previous two labels.
Box style jacket of brown suede. Wide pointed collar and lapels. Long sleeves. Asymmetrical closing at center front with large appliqued circle patch pocket at right front and 2 large metallic silver buttons with bound buttonholes. Closure reinforced with two large snaps on waistband. Four 12" ties at waist band with1-1/2" diameter suede circles at ends. Lined in brown synthetic fabric. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York / Made in France" Retailer's label at right front opening: "Neiman-Marcus / Trophy Room" Label at left shoulder: "Made in France (rest illegible)"
Lounging dress of coral and black nylon knit with purple and white floral pattern. Full-length, with slightly over-long sleeves with elastic at cuffs to create "blousing" effect. V-shaped neckline, and wide, "ribbed" elastic waistband. Center back closure of self-covered button and loop. Unlined. Designer's label at back neckline: "Hanae Mori / Tokyo New York" Fabric has "Hanae Mori" signature in print of fabric. Content/care/size label at back neckline. Content/care label in Japanese at left side seam near hem. With thin cord tie-belt of matching fabric.
Dress of bright orange wool knit. A-line, knee-length, sleeveless, with deep V-shaped neckline in front and back. Faux flap pockets at sides. Empire waistband has off-white/cream embroidered Courrèges logo at center front. Center back zipper, and closure within empire waistband consisting of two snaps and two hooks-and-eyes. Lined in off-white/cream rayon. Inner lining hem with lace band. Designer's label inside at back collar: "Courrèges / Paris / Couture Future / made in France" Fabric/care label: "Fabrique en France / Dry Clean Only / No Bleach Do not iron / [line of symbols] / Modele / Style 14039 / 100% wool / 100% Rayonne / [repeated in French]"
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