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Afternoon dress

Description: Afternoon dress ensemble of navy jacquard with green and cream floral print. Consists of: A) Bodice with lace embelishments as if yoke but beneath faux vest of chartreuse green; geometric pleating in front; black velvet and chartreuse accent at collar; hook and eye closures at center front; remnants of ruffled trim on cuffs. B) Skirt; pleating in center; navy ruffle trim
Date: 1890/1895
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Afternoon dress

Description: Daytime ensemble of white cotton batiste with black dots. A) Bodice with lace yoke. Center front has three vertical rows of lace separated by two inserts of matching fabric with pin tucks. Small bishop sleeves, 3/4 length. Center back closure of seven hook & eyes. Unlined. B) Skirt. Full length with bustle-back, slightly trained back. Formed with two tiers of inserted lace and shirring; bottom tier has pin tucks and extra row of matching inserted lace along hem. Narrow waistband with hook & eye closure; shirring at sides and around back. Unlined.
Date: 1890/1899
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Bed Jacket

Description: Bed jacket of black openwork. Hip length-jacket is formed of vertical panels of black braid open work net overlaid/appliquéd with black braid in scrolls and arabesques, the whole is lined/backed with black silk. The panels are constructed to create princess seamed segments for shape/fit. Elbow-length sleeves, V-neckline at front with two hook & eye closures on center front. Neckline and upper part of opening trimmed with off-white eyelet lace ruffle. Two black braided circular button-like applied elements at center front, one at either side of opening.
Date: 1890/1899
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Bodice

Description: Bodice of black serge with dark green braided cord passementerie and jet bead applique. V-shaped neckline with black lace and ivory net dickey which closes on the right with 4 snaps. Ivory lace trim around collar and black lace around neckline and at cuffs. Long sleeves. Snaps on waistband for skirt (possibly not original to bodice and added at a later date). Center front closure of 4 hook & eyes snap at waistline; 4 non-functioning covered buttons trimmed with black bugle beads. Lined in brown fabric.
Date: 1899/1912
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Bodice

Description: Dress top/bodice of black silk brocade in "tree branch" geometric design with lavender silk vestee front over-laid with black point d'esprit in pattern of squares. Modified leg of mutton sleeve with black passementerie trim. Stand-up collar of matching lavender silk covered in black lace. Collar and vestee close on left with hook & eyes. Black fabric lining of bodice is boned and closes at center front with hook & eyes in which hooks and eyes alternate sides. 29" waist.
Date: 1890/1899
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Boots

Description: Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of black leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, lace closed along center front with laces 13 holes high. At top of toe box is decorative seaming creating a "V" shape. The low, stacked heels styled as a modified Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, tapering at center then flaring very slightly at base, and with curved front section. Sole of black leather. Lined in cream cloth and black leather. Partly illegible retailer's(?) mark stamped inside uppers: "Linkhau... / Memphis Tenn" Handwritten notation inside uppers: "236 6788"
Date: 1890
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Bow tie

Description: Bow tie of ecru silk in the straight or trestle shape. Square patterned weave; adjustable length. Fabric Label: "100% Silk RN 18236"
Date: 1890/1910
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Cape

Description: Capelet of burgundy velvet with brown mottled fur trim at collar, center front opening, hem, and bands down back. Elbow length, with appliques of copper beading on upper back. Center front opening. Blue-violet silk lining.
Date: 1890/1899
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Cape

Description: Ripple style waist-length cape of black wool felt with yoke of five rows of black satin ribbon and 6" middle tier of black lace. Ruffled stand-up collar of black silk gauze. Secures at center front neckline with two hook & eyes and ties of black satin ribbon. Unlined.
Date: 1897
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Capelet

Description: Capelet of black silk satin. The short cape is trimmed along hem with 3-1/2" band of pleated organza and band of jet beads. Standing neckline trimmed in pleated organza. Center front opening with closure of five hook & eyes, with bow of black silk satin moire with trailing ends attached to right side of opening at throat. Shoulder yoke bordered in tightly gathered narrow band of black organza. Bright purple moire silk lining.
Date: 1890/1899
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Capelet

Description: Two-tiered capelet of midnight blue/black velvet and off-white lace. Capelet extends to about small of back, and has high, standing collar trimmed in dense ruff of tightly gathered of black chiffon. Around throat, along both sides of center front opening, around hem, and on edges and hem of the wide tier (7" at center front, 8" over shoulders) is wide band of off-white floral and scroll lace, placed as an applique along edges. Lined in brown fabric. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Mme. Josse / 3 / Boulevard des Italiens / Paris"
Date: 1890/1900
Creator: Josse, Mme.
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Child's Dress

Description: Child's dress of navy blue calico with rose colored paisley print. Long sleeves with caps at shoulders. Empire waistline; full length. Standing collar trimmed with ivory lace. Center front opening with 6 circular brass, concave buttons with red painted centers decorated with silver circles and a star. Back panel in Watteau style and forms a small train. Upper part of dress lined in blue cotton with small white flowers.
Date: 1890/1899
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Day dress

Description: Gold maroon and ivory striped silk ensemble. Three bodices and skirt. A, B, C: Bodices; D: Skirt. Original daytime (high necked long sleeved) top and evening off shoulder décolletage top of 1860's style with lower neckline, lace collar and chiffon sleeves. Remodeling evidently done by NESTOR. 24" waist. NESTOR, Importer - 25 East 29th St., NYC, NY, USA 24" waist.
Date: 1890/1899
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Day Ensemble

Description: Day ensemble of tan cotton batiste with woven cream stripes bordered in black. A: Fitted bodice. Yoke is covered in floral lace with black velvet trim; ruffled shoulders of self. Long, demi-gigot sleeves with 2-2/2" ruffle of self as cuffs. Center front hook & eye closure. Lined in mercerized cotton. B: Skirt of same fabric. Full-length with bustle back. Two rows of ruffles at hem; 22" waist. Hook & eye closure at center back on narrow waistband. Unlined.
Date: 1890
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Dress

Description: Dress of black silk matelassé. A) Fitted bodice of black silk matelassé with vestee of cream silk with lace appliqué trimmed in black and ivory braid in an Art Nouveau motif. High standing collar of lace appliqué matching vestee. Black velvet revers and trim at collar. Long sleeves with rolled back cuffs. Hook & eye closure at left of vestee. Vestee is lined in white polished cotton. Bodice is boned and lined in black polished cotton with center front hook & eye closure; 24" waist. B) Bustle-back skirt with slight train. Center back hook & eye closure. Unlined.
Date: 1897
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Fan

Description: Folding fan with mother of pearl sticks and guards. The leaf is of black Chantilly lace backed with cream satin. A small bail loop at base of fan has an off-white silk tassel hanging from it.
Date: 1890
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
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