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Festival ensemble

Description: Uzbekistan festival ensemble. a) Caftan/Dress of silk ikat. Full-length, very slight A-line, long sleeves. Shaped neckline. Body of caftan/dress of silk ikat in pattern of rectangular blocks of purple, white, yellow, and reddish-black with central ikat patterns of green, black, yellow, and pinkish, with white "eyes". Neckline is edged with band of rhinestones following the scrolling shapes, and continuing down to and across bust. Within band are small areas of "cutouts" backed with fine white mesh. Cuffs with scalloped edges and decorative stitching following edges. Unlined. No labels in garment. b) Coat of complimentary ikat. Full-length, sleeveless, center-front opening with no closure. Edges of neckline, center-front opening, hem, and deep side-slits are all edged with heavy yellow embroidered applique of scrolling bands with "strawberry-leaf" shapes, with yellow mesh backed openwork on leaves, tubular beads along the scrolling bands, and iridescent flower-shaped sequins accenting the edges. Unlined. The ikat pattern is same as dress, but predominantly in greens, blues, yellows, and white rather than reds and purple. No labels in coat. C) Hat. Square, box-form hat of stiffened dark brown(?) velvet almost totally covered in heavy gold metallic thread embroidery and with fine gold bugle beads and gold sequins. From top edge of crown is fringe of long bead strands of gold bugle beads ending in gold teardrop beads. Fringe is longer at sides and back, short in front. Lined in printed cotton, red with floral and white with floral. Whole interior is "shellacked" with glue to stiffen. 6 1/4" square x 3" high, not counting fringe.
Date: 1970/2000
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Festival ensemble

Description: Festival outfit of the Boysun Tribe, Surxondaryo (Surkhandarya) Province, southern Uzbekistan. a ) Dress of maroon silk with multicolored cotton Suzani-style embroidered floral designs. Knee-length(+/-), with slight v-neckline and collar. Slight gathers/pleats into yoke just below neckline. Embroidery in panels/sections over much of the garment, with white scrolling vine forms, green leaf forms, blue, yellow, and white "snowflake"/roundel motifs, green, red, orange, pink, and white plant forms. Scattered multicolored sequins within some of the embroidery. 3/4-length sleeves with same decoration. Yoke with lining of off-white cotton. Main body of garment unlined. Hem appears to either have been let down, or come out. No labels or tags in garment. b ) Headscarf of woven ikat in blue, yellow, maroon, and off-white. Rectangular, with fringe at narrow ends. To be wrapped around the head in a turban-like fashion. 16 1/4" wide x 68" long w/out fringe. No labels or tags. c ) Chirpy. Jacket-like head cover of thin cotton(?) fabric woven with vertical stripes of pink, yellow, red, green, blue, pale purple, etc. Center front opening with no closures, edged with embroidered band with green outer stripes, reddish inner stripes, and central band of black with scrolling forms in white and orange. Vertical bands from yoke to about waist of groups of triangles in rust, green, purple, blue, yellow, black, white, and pink, a band of checker-board in black, rectangular sections with extending "crosses" in same colors as triangles, and black embroidered "zig-zag" band with "blossoms" extending from zigs on one side, in various colors. Hem is unfinished. At back are hanging panels evolved from the sleeves that hung in back when a real jacket was worn as head-cover. The back panels are tapering rectangles, and are joined about mid-back by thin black tie. "Sleeves" with embroidery as front, with additional bands …
Date: 1960/2000
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

Wedding ensemble

Description: Uzbekistan Wedding ensemble a) Pants - ikat in diagonal stripes, white, pinks, purples, etc. and with green upper panels b) Dress - matching ikat, no green panels c) Coat - Purple, embroidery, floral edging d) Veil- white, embroidered, beads, etc. f) Face shield of matching silk ikat covered cardboard with gold fringe along bottom edges. Machine embroidered in yellow lotus(?) flowers with gold bugle bead centers. E) Headpiece. Ornate headpiece of cardboard in the kokoshnik style. Large, triangular panel is covered in gold couched metallic cording with beaded rosettes and sequin backgrounds. Lower edge with fringe of gold beads ending in gold teardrop beads. Upper edge with multicolored row of feathers. Elastic strap across back holding it into shape, and to secure to wearer's head.
Date: 1970/2000
Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
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